ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Model Specific Suzuki Forum => Suzuki Sidekick, Vitara, Geo Tracker (Gen. 1 Platform) 1989-1998 => Topic started by: ZookPower on November 22, 2011, 07:35:20 PM
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This thread will follow my most recent Sidekick Build, I am a bit behind on the thread vs. build already and should be finishing it up over the next few weeks.
A few years ago I bought a 2 door 1995 5 speed suzuki sidekick, I did a simple 2" coil spacer lift and hit it with a hammer untill 31's fit. I do not like body lifts.
I wheeled it like this for a year or so but the 31's ate a bunch of power and the body was so rusty all the body mounts ripped out of the floor. I also had numerous issues with the front aluminum third, first is snapped at the cross-member mount, so I repaired it with the collar a member on here sells, it worked for a bit but the passenger side mount failed later on, the bolts were installed with locktite and torqued but the housing failed catastrophically . The final straw was when the diff was rammed into a rock and the housing cracked.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg714/scaled.php?server=714&filename=61315430016391675502761.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg535/scaled.php?server=535&filename=14982946406454167550276.jpg&res=medium)
I decided to start looking for a 1995+ 2 door with an automatic transmission, so that I could use my 5.12's from the 5 speed kick. I found a 1996 2 door for $1,300.00 certified ant e-tested so brought it home. That weekend I was wheeling it out back of my house in stock form and it ended up on the roof. I decided to use the doors and hood from the white 1995 kick and thus the PandaZuki was born.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg64/scaled.php?server=64&filename=31220110150353528670009.jpg&res=medium)
First drive after the roll over
I tore the truck down and found some rust holes (I will deal with those later in the thread).
Took the interior out and wire weeled the rust, this pic is after a nice layer of bedliner.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg534/scaled.php?server=534&filename=dsc06003p.jpg&res=medium)
I am working on the hagen widening mod got the control arms widened.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg171/scaled.php?server=171&filename=dsc06001t.jpg&res=medium)
Still need to weld the washer on there.
While I was at it I modified my spring mount.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg18/scaled.php?server=18&filename=dsc05999c.jpg&res=medium)
I cut the old one out with a zipdisk and repositioned it with a piece of 5" schedule 40 pipe.
(http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/20/dsc06000qn.jpg/)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg20/scaled.php?server=20&filename=dsc06000qn.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg189/scaled.php?server=189&filename=dsc06002p.jpg&res=medium)
I plan to run the OME lift springs for the V6 grand vitara in the front + whatever size spacer i need to match the rear. For the rear I am going to use the rear coils from a 1991-1996 Honda Accord, here they are pictured next to the stock coils, I picked up KYB 1991 cavalier shocks to use with these.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg42/scaled.php?server=42&filename=dsc06004nq.jpg&res=medium)
I also did the Hagen Over Rotate with the rear diff
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg59/scaled.php?server=59&filename=dsc06011zr.jpg&res=medium)
Still need to get the rear shock mounts welded on.
Started to collect parts;
Thorley Header
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg841/scaled.php?server=841&filename=dsc06005z.jpg&res=medium)
Sky Idler Arm
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg3/scaled.php?server=3&filename=dsc06018y.jpg&res=medium)
Steel Front Housing I pulled from the junk yard (I have the rear portion but no pics yet)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg535/scaled.php?server=535&filename=dsc06017z.jpg&res=medium)
Skid Plates From the Front to the Transfer Case
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg840/scaled.php?server=840&filename=dsc06016ql.jpg&res=medium)
Front KYB's with a limiting strap
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg507/scaled.php?server=507&filename=dsc06009n.jpg&res=medium)
Warn M8000
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg194/scaled.php?server=194&filename=dsc06008jz.jpg&res=medium)
Old Kick.... looks sad.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg690/scaled.php?server=690&filename=dsc06014a.jpg&res=medium)
To Be Continued...
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Looks good. Are those stock skid plates all the way back, or did someone make them up? The back one looks a bit different then the one I have.
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Thanks for the comments, the front skid is OEM, the tranny and transfer skid plates are from Alderedego Motorsport / Zukination.
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It is kind of hard to tell from the pictures but by rear pinion is not as "angled up" as it should be. When I installed the rear coil spacers a year ago I also swapped in a rear end w/ a locker installed (lockrite) and the rear lower links were seized solid. I cut them out and replaced them with some links from Altered Ego Motor Sports.
Now that I have done the " hagen rear over-rotate" the 1" longer rear links are affecting the pinion angle. So I ordered some parts from TMR Customs and made my own rear links. I will be using a 2.5" Johnny joint at the axle and a bushing at the frame mount. I am using 2" OD DOM by 1/4 wall, It is probably overkill but it is only adding about 3 lbs of weight vs. what I had. These are adjustable from 17.5" to 19" bolt center to bold center. Stock is 18"
All welded up
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg208/scaled.php?server=208&filename=dsc06022q.jpg&res=medium)
New Link Beside the Old Zuki Nation Link
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg717/scaled.php?server=717&filename=dsc06023y.jpg&res=medium)
I also got my rear brakes set up, I am running the Rear Disk Brackets available from Lowrangeoffroad with sidekick front calipers and rotors, everything bolts up nicely.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg822/scaled.php?server=822&filename=dsc06024n.jpg&res=medium)
For the front end I am going to use 4 Door Brakes with Vented Rotors.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg713/scaled.php?server=713&filename=dsc06006g.jpg&res=medium)
Lastly I welded in a Cross Beam of 1.5" x 1.5" by 1/8" wall steel to re-enforce the forward lower control arm mounts.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg443/scaled.php?server=443&filename=dsc06020x.jpg&res=medium)
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Great choice on the brake upgrade, it made my Sidekick a completely different trucklet, the stockies were absolutely scarey here in the mtns.
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Sky Idler Arm
([url]http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg3/scaled.php?server=3&filename=dsc06018y.jpg&res=medium[/url])
To Be Continued...
I brought a brace for the bottom of the idler arm over from A arm support. That will keep the idler bracket from bending. Just take the nut off bottom and put bracket and weld in place. Take nut off and remove the upper bolts to remove it.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S1qQAKoOlOI/AAAAAAAAGEQ/HWAYoB8Nloc/s800/CIMG0355.JPG)
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We moved the mount for the lower links forward on Project Trouble so we could use 30" lower links. It gives it a lot softer ride, even if the angles are not perfect since we didn't modify the upper link at all.
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Thanks for the feedback so far.
I have been busy with work and Christmas shopping so the progress has slowed down a bit.
I finally finished up the rear links and painted them, one last issue is that they require 9/16th bolts (pictured below) I will have to drill out the mounts so they fit in the stock locations.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg401/scaled.php?server=401&filename=dsc06048b.jpg&res=medium)
As I mentioned above there was a bunch of rust hiding under this kicks nice looking exterior, after I started poking around I found numerous problem areas that i knew I would have to deal with. So begins the patching, and patching and patching... Still have a lot to do. I hate this job... I really do. Thankfully all the body mounts are in great shape.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg64/scaled.php?server=64&filename=dsc06034x.jpg&res=medium)
Painted Patch work on the Passenger Side
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg337/scaled.php?server=337&filename=dsc06032n.jpg&res=medium)
Passenger rear wheel well.... GRRR !
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg690/scaled.php?server=690&filename=dsc06031d.jpg&res=medium)
Drivers Front Wheel Well
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg198/scaled.php?server=198&filename=dsc06030o.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg859/scaled.php?server=859&filename=dsc06028z.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg215/scaled.php?server=215&filename=dsc06029z.jpg&res=medium)
I also started working on a "strap" for the front differential pinion mount, need to connect it to the cross member and its done. I plan to only use the top piece, the bottom piece is only there for reference.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg839/scaled.php?server=839&filename=dsc06027.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg824/scaled.php?server=824&filename=dsc06026ui.jpg&res=medium)
I had a rear bumper that I ordered from Altered Ego Motorsport I decided to weld on an attachment point, wow hitch and tire carrier (still in the works) and mounted it up (after fixing all the rust holes back there, sorry no pics).
Bumper
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg707/scaled.php?server=707&filename=dsc06044z.jpg&res=medium)
Get Me Out ! Point
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg35/scaled.php?server=35&filename=dsc06043x.jpg&res=medium)
Hitch
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg213/scaled.php?server=213&filename=dsc06042j.jpg&res=medium)
Swing Tire Carrier
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg27/scaled.php?server=27&filename=dsc06045y.jpg&res=medium)
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realy nice project keep going, i'm also on a rusty project probably in worst condition than yours
where you get you new rear link bushing ? and how longer than stock are your link.
thank
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Pier
I threw my old links out before building these, so I asked online to see what the stock length was and was informed it was 18" from bolt center to bolt center. These are adjustable from 17.5" to 19" bolt center to bold center. The bushings and Johnny Joints are from TMR, http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6&zenid=676bb3602b822da1220b6ee6686544fb (http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6&zenid=676bb3602b822da1220b6ee6686544fb) they are a Canadian company and everything I have ordered shipped really quickly.
Unfortunately the cold has been getting to me, I am up in Canuckistan, East of Toronto and without a heater in the shop and waiting for parts to come in (OME Front Springs for over 2 months !) my progress has slowed. Regardless I have been making headway.
Welcome To My Nightmare,
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg853/scaled.php?server=853&filename=dsc06033k.jpg&res=medium)
First off I filled in that huge fole that was in the passenger fenderwell;
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg221/scaled.php?server=221&filename=dsc06083gh.jpg&res=medium)
Sorry for the crappy pic, its all painted with bed liner.
The front bumper is mounted up and the winch is sitting in there, looks like it is going to work.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg94/scaled.php?server=94&filename=dsc06081pc.jpg&res=medium)
I also picked up some KC SlimLites and decided to make some custom mounts on the window frame. I don't want them to snap off if this thing ends up on its roof again.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg713/scaled.php?server=713&filename=dsc06084d.jpg&res=medium)
You can see my budget snorkel in the works also.
The rear axle is installed I re positioned my rear spring mounts after the "Hagen over-rotate" and only need to weld up some sort of shock mounts.
Current State Of Affairs
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg840/scaled.php?server=840&filename=dsc06089b.jpg&res=medium)
There is a lot of lift on the rear axle, I am hoping it settles once I get some weight on there otherwise I'll have to chop down the springs a bit.
So I rolled My Tires in the shop from outside and installed them on the rear axle,
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg542/scaled.php?server=542&filename=dsc06015w.jpg&res=medium)
At this point I still have the 31's from my old setup, I am thinking I will run these untill they are bald and then upgrade to some 33 X 10.5's.
This Differential protector I have is hitting on the gas tank so I will have to cut it down.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg269/scaled.php?server=269&filename=dsc06013n.jpg&res=medium)
I also scored a soft top for cheap, I am currently trying to collect the missing hardware and I'll be able to install it.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg88/scaled.php?server=88&filename=dsc06025c.jpg&res=medium)
I am running a Doug Thorley Header on this rig w/ a 2" Magnaflow exhaust system (muffler and resonator). I have been waiting to install it for a month now while the header gasket was in the mail. IMO the Doug Thorley gaskets are garbage but they are the only ones who make one that fit.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg109/scaled.php?server=109&filename=dsc06012n.jpg&res=medium)
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At least she is still going together. :)
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I decided to bite the bullet and just do it properly... I just ordered a 26 spline ARB air locker for the front steel differential pictured above. Pretty excited.
Is anyone else running this setup ? I have most of the weak links taken care of but I'm worried about eating up CV's, With only 31's how much of a problem do you think I will have ? (assume hard driving)
Who is running the toyota CV's and would it be a worthwhile adventure at this point ?
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BRD HNTR ran that setup, he ran into CV issues when to much droop was added. Other then that they seemed to hold together pretty well. If you invest in some limiting straps you will probably be ok.
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While you are doing all this work, I would make 1" longer diff drop brackets. It will save you some CV issues, especially with hard wheeling. The OME lift springs for the V6 grand vitara in the front, and whatever lift you built into your spring pads will put you right a maximum lift for the CV's with the diff in its present position. You will probably find that you have very little down travel left on the A arms.
Having an ARB up front has been great, you will really enjoy the benefits. Be especially careful where you route the 5mm air line. It is not at all heat friendly, and will melt easily.
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Thanks for the replies and Tips, cant wait to get this thing out of the shop ;D . I have some limiting straps I plan to run they seem to help the struts hold up a little longer, I'll have to adjust them to limit the CV angle. Also I don't think I mentioned it yet but I will be running the altered-ego diff drop brackets. They have somehow managed to get 4.5" of of them and I am only looking for 4 so I think I will be okay.
Updates are few at this point I've been sick, and I lost use of the "good" camera.
I was trying to figure out how to get fluid to the rear calipers and decided on some stainless steel braided lines along the axle w/ a t-fitting. I figured that I would have to replace the rear flex line anyways, so that it would not be the piece limiting axle travel...
I ordered some Russel fittings (10mm banjo fittings, -3AN lines and some T Fitting), wasn't really sure how It would would work out and to be honest I am not sure yet. I mocked it up with some zip ties. I'm worried about the line getting caught and pinched in the coil or mushed/ ripped off by trail debris.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg100/scaled.php?server=100&filename=dsc06083x.jpg&res=medium)
Looking Down on the caliper
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg706/scaled.php?server=706&filename=dsc06086nr.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg407/scaled.php?server=407&filename=dsc06085p.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg808/scaled.php?server=808&filename=dsc06084q.jpg&res=medium)
Proportioning Valve Installed,
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg198/scaled.php?server=198&filename=dsc06090i.jpg&res=medium)
I removed the rear automatic brake adjuster (load sensing proportioning valve) that connect to the upper third link, I plan to attach my electric line lock to the inlet line from this valve. I also removed the 2nd rear brake line, so I now have a single line running to the rear disks. The only issue with this is that the factory splitter (on the frame near the passengers feet) has an opening for the 2nd rear brake line, I think I will just thread a bleeder screw into this area so I can seal it off.
Also figured it was a good time to do some preventative maintenance so I replaced the wires, cap and spark plugs.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg546/scaled.php?server=546&filename=dsc06076te.jpg&res=medium)
This measurement (hard to see) is from the ground up to the rear fender, sitting on 31's. Its about 37-3/4".
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg220/scaled.php?server=220&filename=dsc06089z.jpg&res=medium)
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I made some more progress over the weekend and actually got to drive it around for a bit. Although it was only RWD I did some doughnuts to remind me why I'm doing all this work.
I have been waiting for the OME 956's for 4 months now... they finally showed up and gave me some much needed motivation. These have a 500 lb spring rate, I believe that the original suzuki front spring rates are something like 450. I also choose these as they are the tallest OME springs measuring out at a full 13"
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg84/scaled.php?server=84&filename=dsc06091a.jpg&res=medium)
This picture shows the increase in size over the stock coil. This stock coil is actually out of a 4-door sidekick, I was running it for a little extra lift (not much) in the old 2-Door sidekick.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg18/scaled.php?server=18&filename=dsc06092r.jpg&res=medium)
The install went smoothly, I have done this a number of times now so have a system worked out, even with the much larger springs I was able to compress them with only a jack (very carefully).
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg513/scaled.php?server=513&filename=dsc06095y.jpg&res=medium)
Lift installed
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg337/scaled.php?server=337&filename=dsc06097rk.jpg&res=medium)
Clearly I have some camber issues, I took it for a test drive and adjusted the bolts. I expect it will all settle as I put more miles on it.
Finally out of the shop
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg256/scaled.php?server=256&filename=dsc06108r.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg254/scaled.php?server=254&filename=dsc06109m.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg824/scaled.php?server=824&filename=dsc06111s.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg689/scaled.php?server=689&filename=dsc06112t.jpg&res=medium)
I still have a ton of work to do;
1) Finish brake lines
2) Finish patching the rusty body
3) Weld the rear shocks on
4) Build and install the front differential w/ locker
5) Get the off road lights hooked up
6) Fenders and Hood
7) Skid Plates
ect.
To top the weekend off the UPS guy shows up with this; >:D
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg41/scaled.php?server=41&filename=dsc06091a.jpg&res=medium)
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That is a nice looking box he showed up with. :)
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Nice kit. Take your time and run that blue tubing carefully, it does not like ANY heat. Also when adjusting the diff backlash if you do not have correct spanner socket for the adjusters (and are using a larger one canted) be careful not to gouge the longer shaft that the air seal rides on. It is only a problem if using wrong tools, and can ruin your new toy not to mention your day when you figure it out. I really enjoy mine, running them on both ends now.
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Thanks,
I read through the ARB instructions last night, where did you end up mounting your pump ? I plan to run an air locker in the rear the rear when money permits and noticed there is mention that the pump should be mounted midpoint w/ two lockers. I imagine this is more of an issue with a longer truck ?
Do you have any pictured you could post ?
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I had my compressor mounted on left side engine compartment, and ran lines down under automatic transmission and into front diff, and back along with other tubing to rear diff. My automatic got hot enough to mostly melt the rear air hose. It would open and close, allowing the diff to work and then dump all air pressure. (First day of wheeling in Moab, very disappointing.)
During this session of modifications I am mounting the air compressor under the Drivers seat. The air lines will go out shift opening along top of transmission to front diff, and out with emergency brake cables to rear diff. I was using an old Lincoln air compressor, and the vapor separator tank from air conditioner as a surge tank. I could get three front switches before air compressor would cycle. It is about the same with the ARB compressor I bought when having the troubles in Moab.
The line running from air compressor up around front of Tracker then back along frame to back diff would cycle air compressor on second switch. The shorter the line the less air and more switches before stating compressor.
You have enough air line, so experiment with a short section and a lighter to see how little heat is required to kink or burn hole in it. Then you will know how you have to run your lines.
I mounted my compressor on some rubber bushings, which help isolate the noise.
My motor compartment is stuffed w/2.7L, so not a lot of ways to run tubing w/o getting close to heat.
Get some extra ferrules from ARB (they are about the only ones the have them) to carry in your trail kit. Fastenal has a reuseable 5mm splice/coupling you can order which I also recommend.
It will make you go a lot more places easily. Enjoy.
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Short update with no pictures.
After adding the front 4 door calipers and 2 door fronts to replace the rear drums, my 7/8 Master Cylinder is not pushing enough fluid, I'm having to do 2 pumps to get any kind of good braking at all. I have done some calculations and see that I will need to go to a 1" bore, after reading some more it looks like the Samurai guys are using a Mazda 929 1" bore, and others use the Subaru master cylinder but it is 1-1/16" too big imo for my application with a 47% increase in fluid flow. however, each of these options require some modification and running of new brake line / splitters.
I have done some searching online and see that the 1996-1998 Suzuki Sport came with a 1" bore master cylinder, also the 99-2005 Suzuki Grand Vitara V6 came with a 1" bore master. It looks like the Sport Master in the ABS version will most closely match the stock outlets, having to only bend the existing brake line a bit to make it work.
Just a little unsure about the plunger depth.
I also finished up the custom parts to complete the "Hagen Widening Mod". The 26 spline stubby shaft and 6mm spacer are ready to go now.
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As mentioned in the above post.
Stubby
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg42/scaled.php?server=42&filename=img0006yy.jpg&res=medium)
This was set up on a lathe machined flat on both surfaces and a etch mark was made to ensure it is perfectly centered.
Despite the recommendations in the original "Hagen Build" I decided to go with a spacer rather than cut up another one of my half shafts. Its 6mm thick with a raised face on one side and a sunken face on the other. I'll use some lock nuts and do them up real tight, I do not expect to have any issues.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg43/scaled.php?server=43&filename=img0007fq.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg718/scaled.php?server=718&filename=img0008yp.jpg&res=medium)
We had nice (inspiring) weather last night, so I got back at it with the wire wheel in hand. After a bunch of hammering, tacking and grinding I had this... welded in and sealed up. While it may not look like much it is the second to last patch I will have to do on this truck. Sadly this is the most rust free example I could find up here, I envy the guys in the southern states, but have a feeling that these trucks could rust in the desert.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg204/scaled.php?server=204&filename=img0005kt.jpg&res=medium)
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Okay so I lied, I was poking around last night and found a few more holes >:( lucky me.
Rusty Patch
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg69/scaled.php?server=69&filename=img0009kf.jpg&res=medium)
More Holes (Hard to see the difference in depth)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg59/scaled.php?server=59&filename=img0010uk.jpg&res=medium)
A little later in the night
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg259/scaled.php?server=259&filename=img0011gr.jpg&res=medium)
Anyways.. I don't want to fill this build with patch work and bore everyone, so some good news. I just got an E-Mail from the shipping company notifying me that they have delivered the Master Cylinder I ordered. I'll do a comparison and some measuring so hopefully we Suzuki owners will have more viable options for M/C upgrades than the Mazda 929 and the Subaru Cylinders.
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its realy the same place of me your repair
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its realy the same place of me your repair
I thought your repair was much more impressive. But I defiantly noticed that both trucks seemed to be rusting in the same place.
I got sick of welding and some of the rusty areas are in-accessible, so I finished up the last few holes with fiberglass. Threw the hood and soft top on.
The drivers side rear was jacked up in these pics.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg62/scaled.php?server=62&filename=img0026kg.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg850/scaled.php?server=850&filename=img0025bj.jpg&res=medium)
Still have to: Weld on rear shocks, swap out the master cylinder, build front differential, build spare tire carrier.
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As previously mentioned I was having issues with my brakes, after installing larger front (4 door) calipers and rear disks. I only had a 7/8th master cylinder and it was not displacing enough fluid to put pressure on all of the calipers.
After some research I found that the samurai guys have a similar issue with their stock cylinder. Most go the Subaru (1-1/8th or something) route or the Mazda 929 (1" bore) route. I was looking to keep it Suzuki (and pray it is a bolt in solution), and after a few hours on the autoparts websites, decided I would try a 1999-2005 Suzuki Grand Vitara Master Cylinder from the V6 Four door option (1" Bore). I was torn between this or the 1996-199s Sidekick Sport, I do still think either would work. Also there is a huge cost savings here, the one I ordered was only $100.00, while the Subaru and Mazda 929 options are about double that.
So I bit the bullet and made the order. The Master came in and initially it did not look good. It only had 2 ports this is the worst case scenario that can happen but it is really not a big deal. I'm not sure what to tell you guys here, I cant remember if I ordered the ABS one or the non-abs one, but either will work.
Here is a comparison, Grand Vitara on the left and two 7/8 2 door kick masters on the right.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg856/scaled.php?server=856&filename=img0027oh.jpg&res=medium)
I took come measurements and every thing looked good except for the push rod length. It was clear i would have to shorten my stock length by about a 1/4".
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg189/scaled.php?server=189&filename=img0028tf.jpg&res=medium)
Highly accurate ruler :-X
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg715/scaled.php?server=715&filename=img0030acy.jpg&res=medium)
I work by my self and knew from other posts it is very unwise to pull the push rod from the booster in a sidekick as it will not go back in. There are tabs that hold it in place and once removed it will not go back in. I put pressure on the brake pedal to extend the push rod.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg141/scaled.php?server=141&filename=img0031w.jpg&res=medium)
And was relived to see that I could thread the end of the rod in a 1/4" to solve the issue. RESULTS MAY VARY (I don't know??)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg402/scaled.php?server=402&filename=img0032uxn.jpg&res=medium)
So I got some Vice grips to stop the pin from turning and a 7mm socket and cranked the tip in.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg577/scaled.php?server=577&filename=img0033ryu.jpg&res=medium)
Here is a picture of it bottomed out
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg853/scaled.php?server=853&filename=img0034up.jpg&res=medium)
Now all you have to do is bolt in bleed and come up with a way to tee the lines for the front brakes. The low level sensor even fit right in to the 1996 stock harness, no modification necessary !
I am going to use the stock splitter for the front brakes that is located on the Passenger Side of the Frame. I previously modified this anyways so I only have a single line running to the rear disks. Again, this may not be the case on your rig but there are other ways to Tee a brake line. Affordable easy solution.
The same night I made up some little mounts for the rear shock. Partially inspired by BRD HNTR's build and Talonxracer's ideas to mount them perpendicular to the axle. I wanted to keep them out of the way of rocks but didn't have tubing wide enough for the shock to fit into. These are designed by inventory, but I'm happy with them. Other than reversing into a rock they should be good.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg140/scaled.php?server=140&filename=img0035sa.jpg&res=medium)
Welded and Painted
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg571/scaled.php?server=571&filename=img0037zb.jpg&res=medium)
Flex, not all the way. I didn't want to get to crazy in the shop.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg37/scaled.php?server=37&filename=img0038bv.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg405/scaled.php?server=405&filename=img0039dw.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg837/scaled.php?server=837&filename=img0040yq.jpg&res=medium)
To be honest the front is not flexing like I had hoped. I am thinking the springs will break in as I begin to put miles on it.
Just the Skids, Front Diff and Tire Carrier to go.
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That is an interesting note on the brake issue. I had an issue with the 4 door springs hitting my calipers during hard turns and stuffing the wheels, and fixed that with a modification of the spring pad. The last time out 4X I noticed that the brakes were a little weak. I have had the 4 door brakes up front forever seems, but off road you do notice the small things. I am going to have to watch them now.
Just another modification to do. Thanks for all the information. It's a lot easier to do when someone has paved the way.
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A lot of this build is inspired by others so I was happy to add the information.
If you can find a 4 Door Master (should be available for cheap locally) I think they are 15/16 or a 14% increase in fluid flow over your 7/8 2 door master. It should help to stiffen up that pedal feel. I was originally running the 4 door calipers w/ stock rear drums and noticed it was not as firm as I would have liked.
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Getting there albeit slowly.
I started on the tire carrier last night. I am using 1.5" X 1.5" X 1/8" steel. I'm not convinced it is as strong as a material as I should be using but I put my entire weight on the point near the hitch and the only thing that moved was the suspension compressing. So I will continue with what I have so far, figuring I weight about 3x as much as a spare tire.
I am using a 31" tire to do the mock up but intend to leave enough room to throw a 33 on there in the near future.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg15/scaled.php?server=15&filename=img0042nv.jpg&res=medium)
I plan to tie back into the bearing for some additional strength.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg88/scaled.php?server=88&filename=img0045cd.jpg&res=medium)
Then I ran out of material so I played around with the ARB.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg51/scaled.php?server=51&filename=img0046vc.jpg&res=medium)
And started making a tool to remove the old pinion.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg17/scaled.php?server=17&filename=img0047ebb.jpg&res=medium)
Also ordered a tail gate latch from TMR customs and a New Bearing Kit from Low Range.
As an aside,
When I removed the rear gas tank protector / tow hitch hook thing I didn't take note that there were two different bolt sizes that hold this to the frame rail. I took one bolt to Canadian Tire and picked up 4 replacements. The Altered ego bumper doesn't seem to accommodate 2 of them (the passenger side).. does anyone know what bolt threads size is needed for the passenger side ? Or did some on at Altered-Ego drill the wrong size bolt hole ?
Ill take the bumper back off tonight and take a look, just thought I would ask in-case anyone knew for sure.
Here is what I am talking about (not the skid plate)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg857/scaled.php?server=857&filename=boltx.png&res=medium)
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Keep working on the spare tire mount!! I want to see if that single mount is going to be enough to hold a 33.
Thanks for the information on the 4 door master cylinder, I might have a handle on one. And if he reads this he might use it, which is good also.
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Almost finished up the rear tire mount, unfortunately I only have a 31" tire to test it. I put some weight on it with the tire installed and I am going to add a gas tank carrier or a high lift mount as well.
I am 100% sure that a 33" tire will not have an effect, the carrier it is very stout.
I added in an extra brace and plated it at the pivot point. I am not the best welder, I am self taught within the course of this build but it seems to be going okay.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg607/scaled.php?server=607&filename=img0071lf.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg96/scaled.php?server=96&filename=img0072tud.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg685/scaled.php?server=685&filename=img0073py.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg687/scaled.php?server=687&filename=img0075ii.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg59/scaled.php?server=59&filename=img0074eu.jpg&res=medium)
I got my latch from TMR customs today, I will remove the rack paint it and finish up the latch tonight.
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Nice work. I have been wanting to build a mount very similar to that, just too busy right now.
Question - How constant is the spacing if you opened the door and tire carrier at same time. I recognize they will move at different distances, but if you utilized a poly spacer as a slider, will the distance between the door and tire rack remain constant. Or would the angle between them change enough to cause binding? Do you understand where I am going?
What did you use for your spindle? Housing for the races? Bearings? This looks very useful.
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That 31 looks huge back there. Cant wait to see what a 33 looks like.
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BRD HNTR
Are you thinking you could somehow mesh the two so that the rack would take the load but operate as a single unit w/ the tailgate ? If the two are mounted at a different axis point they will defiantly bind. Mine have to be opened seperatley, partially due to the mount position of the pivot, which was chosen based on my rear bumper design.
If you could somehow mount the pivot inline with the tailgate hinges I think it would interfere with the tailgate operation ?
I tried to take some pictures below to show you what I mean.
Drone
Unfortunately I've got to put tires on my daily driver and my track toy. Unless I can find a good deal on 5 33's I will be rolling on these till they are bald :(
Update
This thing really ruined my night, I had a hard time getting the mount to work with the latch I bough. Ended up cobbling together a piece that works, but I am not happy with it. I'll run it though as I have a hundred other things to do.
Its a piece of angle filled with rubber horse matting as a damper / compressor for the latch. It does not rattle at all. You can see where I "fixed" my mistake by cutting the lower tire carrier beam an welding in new steel so the latch would close.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg638/scaled.php?server=638&filename=img0076rj.jpg&res=medium)
Clearance between the carrier and the tire / tailgate and the carrier. I have room for a 33 for sure.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg685/scaled.php?server=685&filename=img0078sy.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg138/scaled.php?server=138&filename=img0077yo.jpg&res=medium)
Done and on to the next thing.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg96/scaled.php?server=96&filename=img0080ez.jpg&res=medium)
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I lost the crush sleeve that goes on the pinion so I am a bit behind. I did however wire up the ARB compressor and rear line lock.
I also cut the fenders out. Got a bit aggressive as I didn't care about these fenders. I just used a grinder + zip disk, thats why it doesnt look like BRDHNTR's DIY.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg829/scaled.php?server=829&filename=img0084xx.jpg&res=medium)
The fender is hardly attached, I'm thinking of doing the 2x4 rockers as the ones on it are questionable anyways.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg813/scaled.php?server=813&filename=img0087cg.jpg&res=medium)
Line Lock in a dangerous place ? too late now.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg560/scaled.php?server=560&filename=img0088yk.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg215/scaled.php?server=215&filename=img0089ui.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg39/scaled.php?server=39&filename=img0090u.jpg&res=medium)
Flexing it on a hill
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg32/scaled.php?server=32&filename=img0095wa.jpg&res=medium)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg96/scaled.php?server=96&filename=img0094od.jpg&res=medium)
The front is not flexing, the springs are still brand new so I am hoping they wear in a bit. Once the Steel diff is in there it may help a bit ?
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg846/scaled.php?server=846&filename=img0093mu.jpg&res=medium)
Remaining;
1) Skid Plates
2) All New Fluids
3) Front Diff Assembly
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Ah, you got the big ARB pump. :) BRD HNTR and Moonzuki both put a t on the end where the pressure sensor is and ran it to a quick disconnect. That way you can use it as on-board air to air up your tires.
Looks good though, the white stands out well.
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Thanks, they up-sold me on the pump, but I couldn't stomach the price of the ARB branded tire inflation kit / adapter piece. I'll make a run to princess auto when my list gets a bit shorter and put something together myself.
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I remounted my compressor under the drivers seat, and use a 1/4"X20' coiled air hose. I cross to other side through the door. Moonzuk52 has his mounted up front like yours and has no problem reaching all tires. Also get an air nozzle to use, doesn't have much capacity but short bursts will clean things up.
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I finally finished this thing up, I took my sweet time building the diff but in the end wouldn't call it a hard chore, just precise.
With the diff installed and the Hagen Mod complete (I made a new stubby shaft) I went up north to test it out for the weekend. I was pleasantly surprised with its capabilities. Being a manual transmission fanatic I wasn't too sure about the automatic, to be honest I hated it driving on the roads but it had many advantages off road, so I will live with it plus it is geared way better with the 5.12's.
Definatly went some places with the ARB that would have been inaccessible before. Very happy with the truck, couldn't break it other than the exhaust which I jammed into a rock. Note: I also kept up and trail blazed for the Rubicon in some of the pics. All the work is starting to pay off, but the front end suspension is still not performing as I would like it to, perhaps new coils will help out. I also need to figure out some sort of bump stop to limit axle travel in the rear.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg542/scaled.php?server=542&filename=img0126op.jpg&res=landing)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg542/scaled.php?server=542&filename=img0125ye.jpg&res=landing)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg341/scaled.php?server=341&filename=img0117kl.jpg&res=landing)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg580/scaled.php?server=580&filename=img0129wii.jpg&res=landing)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg28/scaled.php?server=28&filename=img0124jp.jpg&res=landing)
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Nice work! You probably wont get the same amount of " slow " flex out of the front as you get from the rear. I've expermented with a vareity of different coil weights and lengths and for the best all around performance I settled on a 550 lb non progressive 16" coil trimmed to fit, purchased from FOA. Works very well without the eventual sagging of other coils. On your rear swing away I'm using the same latch and have no issues with it, it's very secure. However I did find the the whole assembly did tend to wobble back to front some, so I eventually built a stablizer that attaches to the top of the swing away and mounts to my rear roof rack cross bar. Secured with a large Eye bolt for easy removal, it does require one more step to open the door, but it's worth the extra effort. Keeps the thing from wobbling front to back.
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It is nice when the pieces are all working at the same time, and when they do you can do incredible things with these little beasts. Like Bentparts said, my front does not flex like the rear. I can get pretty good compression jamming it up against steep rocks, but for most part it usually climbs over stuff rather than compression. And there just isn't that much distance between full compression and fully extended.
I am planning on adding a Trailer hitch, so will need to beef up bumper attachment, and I want to add a tire mount also. Your tire carrier looks good, and would match my bumper construction.
So if you don't mind, some questions on your tire carrier: What tubing did you use for the sleeve? What did you use for the Spindle? What are the Bearings #? What did you use between the races for spacing?
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What sort of issues are you seeing with the rear? My problem is with the 4-door springs and coil spacer my shocks are topped out, when running rough roads the rear end is really rough from topping out all the time. A set of Ford shocks in the back should fix that problem, then I just need to extend my bump stops to fit the new travel expectations.
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bentparts - Thanks for the comments. I will keep an eye on the latch but so far it seems to be bullet proof. I will also look into the springs you mentioned. Wow 16.0" ? How much did you cut off ? I have the OME 956's which measure 13.0" according to Low Range Off Road and a 500lb spring rate, they seem pretty tall when installed but maybe that is due to the increased OD of the spring material. I figure I am getting 4" of lift with the spring perch mods as well. If I didn't have the heavy bumper and winch I would not be happy with the ride on the road.
BRD HNTR - It was a relief to have it running again, I ran into a a lot of issues in the end but got it to work. Kinda lost some motivation and forgot to update this build as well.
Front End
I am running the Top Hats off a set of old man emu struts, 2" strut spacers and limiting straps on KYB stock replacement struts (they limit just before the strut bottoms). I think this is killing a lot of my "droop". The CV angle with the diff drop and uncompressed suspension is not being pushed at all, this is probably good from a reliability standpoint but I think I am loosing a bit of performance. The Fox Front Struts (not the coilover) offered by Kreator would let me do away with all this "junk" spacers etc. I am really considering that as an option. I'll post up pics of the underneath ASAP.
I wish I could provide you with more information on the hinge. The one thing I am missing is a lathe, as far as I can tell this would be a challenge to make without one. I was looking at TMR and some US vendors but found a small company in Quebec (good for me as its in Canada) http://www.ztechfab.com/ (http://www.ztechfab.com/) and picked their hinge up for $60.00 a fraction of the cost others are asking. To me it looked like a 2.5" by 1/4" wall pipe with the inner edged machined to match the bearing race OD. I will try to get some better measurements tonight.
Drone637 - The rear is on 1994 Honda Accord Coils, they are Moog or some aftermarket replacement bought new for $60.00 a set w/ a progressive spring rate of 200lb. They flex and ride amazing with the aftermarket KYB cavalier rear shocks and have a Ton of droop (this is probably due to the remounted rear shock mount as it is higher up on the axle). When it is compressing however the tire is rubbing the body as the coil begins to bind and the rear shock reaches its lower travel limit. It is still a few inches away from bump stop. I would like it to be reliable so need to figure something out. How do you intend to extend your bump stops ?
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I was actually thinking about putting in a set of Daystar Stinger Bumpstops. They have a weld-on mount, I was thinking of cutting off the existing bump stop and putting it in it's place. I just need to get underneath the White Rabbit, pull the rear springs and figure it out.
For a temp solution I will probably just build a spacer, similar to what Calmini sells with their 3" lift kit.
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I was able to snap some pictures of the CV's / Skid plates in the drive way over the weekend.
Not much of a update but here they are regardless.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg822/scaled.php?server=822&filename=img0132rh.jpg&res=landing)
I do not have much down travel from this point with my current strut setup, I think I can push it a bit further.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg850/scaled.php?server=850&filename=img0133gk.jpg&res=landing)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg836/scaled.php?server=836&filename=img0134rx.jpg&res=landing)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg837/scaled.php?server=837&filename=img0135xi.jpg&res=landing)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg196/scaled.php?server=196&filename=img0136crt.jpg&res=landing)
Drove it pretty hard this weekend and it is still holding together.
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Thanks for the hinge information. I will probably go with that hinge when I get started on my bumper modifications. When considering new bearings, shaft and hinge sleeve ready for fabbing, that seems a reasonable price.
I doesn't seem to matter whether you have it set up high, or in the middle, there just isn't much travel on the front. We use all that is available, and I can't complain about what I have been able to do. Although I haven't tried leaping huge boulders yet.
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This past weekend I went up to Minden to do a day trip with some friends. Got stuck but no breakage yet. I am getting the itch for 33's.
The Trail we ran was called the Stocth Line, it was really rough and claimed a Rubicon and a Full Size blazer, shock mount and drive shaft respectively.
The GF Painted the Tow Point when I wasn't looking.
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg684/scaled.php?server=684&filename=img0139nd.jpg&res=landing)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg98/scaled.php?server=98&filename=img0178vo.jpg&res=landing)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg803/scaled.php?server=803&filename=img0180f.jpg&res=landing)
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg204/scaled.php?server=204&filename=img0183ke.jpg&res=landing)
Everyone's favorite - Broken Jeep Pics
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg696/scaled.php?server=696&filename=img0174ml.jpg&res=landing)