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ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: jarhead69 on December 04, 2011, 01:18:50 PM
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Guys, I need some help. I've got a 1.3 with a .030 bore HC pistons with new rings and a new oil pump. The head is a 1.6 with a 272 cam, heavy duty valve springs that was shaved just enough to clean it up. It has a 32/36 Weber that seem to be dialed in pretty good. Everything in the block and head are new and so is the carb. I took the egr valve off and made a block off plate since the carb would eliminate it anyway. I have oil pouring out of the tail pipe. The manifold is now cracked and with it off you can clearly see oil in the exhaust ports on 3 and 4. The plugs on 3 and 4 are covered in oil and 2 is a little wet but 1 is dry and looks good. I pulled the egr valve hose off trying to eliminate that much. Its pouring smoke like an old time bug truck and I'm about out of options except for thinking I have bad rings in 3 and 4 cylinders. I did a compression check and have 170 lbs on 3 and 4 and 165 on 1 and 2. Please tell me someone has an idea of whats wrong.
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Oil ring upside down or stuck... just a guess...
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Thanks, that's what I was afraid of.
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I used break in oil inside of my ring compressor and when I tightened it up it turned my oil rings 180 which lined them up perfectly. NO way that could've happened again. I cleaned the compressor put the rings in and she runs great except for valve chatter. I've got a highspeed cam and set the valves on .039 then .037 and still have chatter. Has anyone got one of these cams and what did you set the valves on. Thanks.
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Don't know about the setup specs on that paticular cam, but .037 sounds like a lot of gap. .005/.006 is normal for a 16V when cold. I imagine the 1.6 8 Valve head is similar. I'd have to check my FSM and can get back to you later this evening.
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Thanks. I adjusted them to .007 intake and .008 exhaust. Took alot of the chatter away but still have a little, I just don't know what they should set on because of it being a bigger cam.
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That's when you ask the supplier of the cam.
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They told me .039.
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"They" must be smokin somthin. I've installed cams in a few different engines and almost always the stock settings are recommended. The clearance between the heel or flat side is not going to change regardless of the lift height or aggressiveness of the cams profile. Set them to stock specs, .005/.006 cold. The specs for that cam would be helpful, but they're not really necessary for setting valve lash. Unless that cam has some kind of HUGE lift, or it's made from some crap steel that expands like a hot dog cooking on a grill, in which case it wouldn't even idle and couldn't be practical for a rig driven on the street or trail, I say ignore those guys, but heah, that's just my opinion.
One more thing, is the spec they told you in inches or milimeters? either way it's freakin big.
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My 2 bits of 1.3L experience....
1st, when cold, especially in winter, it will sound like a direct injection diesel until it warms up. (Valve Lash)
2nd, could be BAD NEWS.... put a timing light on and see if your timing is "Floating"?
This could be the sure signs of a dreaded Crank Key-Timing Belt Drive Sprocket "Waller-ing Out" problem !!!!
There are past posts on this common failure!!
You mentioned a radical cam set-up which could stress the drive key.
CAPT
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Not sure who "they" is but if in doubt call the cam manufactuer. In most cases any questions you ask will be and can be quickly and professionally. JMO $.02 ;)
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Thanks for the input. I set them to .05 and .06 backed my timing down a bit and got rid of the chatter at idle but when reved up a bit not sure no tach, it makes almost a rattle sound. I first thought it was the header making the noise but not sure now because I got the rest of my exhaust on and it sounds like it's coming from the head, any ideas. I'm going to put a timing light on it tomorrow. After tearing it back down to reinstall a new set of rings I double checked everything twice. I know I put this thing together right except for my compressor spining the rings but can't figure out what the racket is. The machine shop assembled my head, I asked him how everything fit and he said like it should but when he came outside and I reved it up he said it almost sounds like the cam is loose. Any ideas?
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It's pretty hard to diagnose a noise without hearing it. A " rattle" not the ticking of valves or followers? Rocker shaft loose? a loose cam or ill fitting cam in the journals could do that.
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Ok, here's what i'm going to do. I'm pulling the 1.6 head and putting my good 1.3 head on with new valve seals and the high speed cam out of the 1.6 in with regular valve springs on the motor. The timing was spot on but the rattle is still there right about the time you shift into the next gear and not making the power I thought it would. I had one 1.3 with a weber and header and one with a torquer cam and carb and both were making more power than the .030 HC piston block and high speed cam 1.6 head that I've got now.
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Let me know how this turns out. I wanted to put a 1.6 head an cam on my 1.3 block. After reading your post it doesn't seem like such a good idea.
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Still wondering? Are you back to work yet?
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FINALLY! I left the 1.6 head on and started expermenting with the timing. I first retarded the timing one notch because I had read on here it would help with bottom end torque. It all but killed what little power I had with the high speed cam. So then I advaced it one tooth over stock and the little hussie came alive. I tried advancing the distributor but got my chatter back which i believe is spark knock. I turned the distributor back and got rid of the chatter kept my power and then put a cold air intake on that helped a little at best. Thanks for the help and so glad it finally runs like I thought it would.
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I still have to put the timing cover on but was waiting untill I got through tinkering with the timing.
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So the 1.6 head on 1.3 block turned out O.K.? What kind of gains did you see. Did you run a 1.3 cam or is there a difference between the two?
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It's a 1.3 cam in a 1.6 head. Heavy duty valve springs but not sure I needed them. It's a high speed cam from lowrange.
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Glad to hear that you got it and that it was relatively simple. That is a nice clean looking Tin Top you have. 8)
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Thanks, it's got alot more power from pulling out all the way to about 75 mph. It wouldn't hit 60 before if you dropped it off a cliff. My son is home on leave and couldn't believe the difference in it since the last time he rode in it. He said "so, you finally got some power huh". I just grinned.
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Did you set the cam up with a degree disc and a dial gauge? Many reground cams are some way out and really need slotted/adjustable gears to time them corectly. The cam should have come with the timing specs to set it up correctly.
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Great looking engine and engine bay. Good looking rig all around.
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That is one nice rig. The 1.3 cam did you use a dist? Does that need some kind of spacer or adapter. As I said earlier I plan on doing the same set-up and was wondering about all the little details. I also want to run a 1.3 performance cam.
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I set the timing to stock and pulled the belt and then advanced the head one tooth and put the belt back on and presto alot of power. I first retarded the timing and with the Low Range high speed cam it killed the power, with it advanced it ran great. I've been trying to fix it up a little at a time and drive it too. The head is a 1.6 with 1.3 dist. high speed cam and heavy duty valve springs.