ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Model Specific Suzuki Forum => Suzuki Sidekick, Vitara, Geo Tracker (Gen. 1 Platform) 1989-1998 => Topic started by: b-dub on January 20, 2012, 06:00:37 PM
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well I've decided on a tracker over a jeep or toyota.
It will be DD and on gravel and country roads. I'd also like to take it out on a trail or two later down the road.
I'm thinking future plans would be a calmini lift but I'd like to see a realistic 22-24mpg out of it if this is possible?
I'm really not educated in gearing and ratios so I'm not sure what the ideal setup is for my goals.
I know I want the 16v 4x4 (I also kind of want the 2door soft top) but I'm not sure if I want an auto or manual (I hear the 2-doors only have a 3-speed w/o overdrive?) I don't mind an automatic (if it can get me in my mpg range) but I just want to know more about how reliable they are. I've had my share of auto failures in other cars that make me nervous.
also most I have seen have almost always 150k+ miles on them... are these things known to last awhile? I see parts are cheap and from the looks of them they seem simple to work on..
what are some opinions on this?
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It depends on how you drive and how far you go with tires and wheels as far as the mileage goes.
I have a 98' 2dr soft top 5spd and after driving it and adding a lift kit and putting over 2500 miles off road in the mtns, I think I would have preferrd the 4dr because of the additional wheelbase, the hardtop and 4spd auto.
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Your milage goals are certainly within reason for a Trackick with a minor lift and bigger tires, auto or manual. They are pretty durable vehicles, especially when maintained regularly. The problem I've found is the ratio of morons to responsible owners of used Trackicks is fairly high. Look long and choose well. A higher milage WELL maintained one is better than a lower milage ignored one.
Auto trannys in these are fine, once again maintenence is the key. If the trans fluid smells like used fish fry oil beware. Look for signs of neglect or abuse, and avoid if you can. These are also easy vehicles to fix and maintain so don't be afraid of one needing some work, they all need some work. In any case they are very reliable and great, economical, fun. ;D
The auto trans models also have the advantage of higher gear ratios in the diffs which make changing to a lower ratio out of a manual an easy swap, great for regaining lost momentum from bigger tire installs.
For mostly gravel and dirt roads a good lift choice may be the OME lift with better quality struts, shocks and springs which will provide a much better ride, IMO. Happy hunting.
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How much mpg loss will I have with an auto at 60mph cruising speeds? I regularly make 50 - 150 mille round trips and didn't know if the 3-speeds (which I have read are the only autos in 2dr) will be revving the engine way up. Whats the normal rpm with a 5-speed and 3-speed |removethispart|@60mph
also power steering. If I find a clean one that didn't come with PS is it a direct bolt in swap? is it very expensive to add?
a/c I'm not too worried about (that's why I want the soft top)
and something I really miss... cruise control.. which ones had it and can it be added to any track kick?
right now I'm pretty much set on 16v 2-door soft top 4x4 .. still not sure on year range (other than 95-98) and transmission (I think my choices are only 3spd auto or 5spd manual) I'd like cruise control and I was thinking calmini combo with whatever tires will fit without trimming (I'm not really wanting to hack up the fenders right after I get it) but I also want a size tire that wont kill my mpg too much.
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I'm thinking about selling this one.
1996 Geo Tracker, 16 Valve, 5 speed, 4WD, A/C, Removable Top. Coils, Body Lift and 31s.
In town I can get Low to Mid 20's easy.
Highway is a little less actually. These are not very aerodynamic, especially lifted and pushing tires.
I've driven it to the Black Hills of SD a couple times. 1000 mile roundtrip. No Worries...
I just got a '98 that I kinda like better. ;)
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nice little rig you got there. and I keep forgetting these things are so small... I'm used to seeing trucks with 33+ on them and a track kick looks fine with a 31 maybe even a 32.
I like this one, He's the guy that got me interested in these things.
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/294660_2247517079024_1581097396_2243167_1959852707_n.jpg)
anyone have the answers to my last post?
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For what it's worth, I was in the same boat you were. I wanted a 16V two door, 4WD, but it had to have a manual. I'm a die-hard shift-it-yourself driver.
I called on a number of Sidekicks/Trackers, but they all sold before I could even go see them. Most of them had well over 100,000 miles on them. I bought mine with 139,000 on it, and have 143,000 now. I made sure to tune up everything, too:
- Cap
- Rotor
- Plugs
- Wires
- Timing belt
- Water Pump
- New belts
- Thermostat
- Air filter
The basics. Then I put all new fluids in (diffs, oil, t-case had recently been serviced). It used to hesitate, but after the tune up, it runs like a champ. It starts easier than my '10 Suzuki SX4 and my '07 Toyota Yaris, actually! Now, I've only put 4,000 one mine (it's a third car), but it has been super reliable thus far.
I consistently get 22-24 MPG in mostly city driving (don't get over 55 mph most days).
- Andy
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personally it wouldn't bother me to drive an auto.. (depending how reliable the auto is and how much it kills the mpg)
example...
1996 Golf 2.0 automatic 22mpg (what I'm letting my gf drive)
1996 Jetta 2.0 5-speed 34mpg (and it was a heavier car but is now sitting in the back yard as a parts car)
also my friend's (now totalled and owned by me as a parts car) 1997 golf 5-speed 2.0 was in the 30mpg as well.
I just can't believe how bad the auto is killing the mpg..
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The 3spd auto's can be rebuilt with extra friction plates and a reprogramed TC and valve body, this greatly increases the MPG, but makes the shifts hard and immediate. The TC acts like a variable output gearbox from from 1.8:1 at stall to 1:1 at lockup.
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The 3spd auto's can be rebuilt with extra friction plates and a reprogramed TC and valve body, this greatly increases the MPG, but makes the shifts hard and immediate. The TC acts like a variable output gearbox from from 1.8:1 at stall to 1:1 at lockup.
Tell me more about this, very interesting.
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Here is a fantastic source for rebuild parts, download their high perf catalog and open it up to pg 8 I think, GM TH180c http://www.altousa.com/am/high_performance (http://www.altousa.com/am/high_performance) I need to find the damn name of the place that rebuilds and builds new convertors and will do them for the TH180c's, when i find it I will post up a link as well.
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Thanks for the heads up!
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How much mpg loss will I have with an auto at 60mph cruising speeds? I regularly make 50 - 150 mille round trips and didn't know if the 3-speeds (which I have read are the only autos in 2dr) will be revving the engine way up. Whats the normal rpm with a 5-speed and 3-speed |removethispart||removethispart|@60mph
also power steering. If I find a clean one that didn't come with PS is it a direct bolt in swap? is it very expensive to add?
a/c I'm not too worried about (that's why I want the soft top)
and something I really miss... cruise control.. which ones had it and can it be added to any track kick?
right now I'm pretty much set on 16v 2-door soft top 4x4 .. still not sure on year range (other than 95-98) and transmission (I think my choices are only 3spd auto or 5spd manual) I'd like cruise control and I was thinking calmini combo with whatever tires will fit without trimming (I'm not really wanting to hack up the fenders right after I get it) but I also want a size tire that wont kill my mpg too much.
You are correct, in that the only autos available in the 2 doors were the 3 speeds (non-OD...1:1 top gear).
To add PS, you need the PS box with pitman arm, PS lines, PS pump and bracket (from the same engine as yours....8V or 16V), PS reservoir, and PS shaft (from the box to the steering column shaft). It is a bolt on swap.
I have found no rhyme or reason on which trackicks had cruise and which ones didn't. There are some aftermarket CC systems that can be added. I've had a few trackicks with aftermarket systems. I don't know what brands they were though.
No sure on your MPG question. I do know that if you find a 2 door trackick with the 1.6 16V and a 3 speed auto, that it will have 4.30 axle gears (as compared to 4.62 axle gears in the trackicks with the 1.6 8V and 3 speed auto). So the 4.30s would drop the RPMs about 250ish RPMs over the 4.62s at 60MPH (3211 vs. 3453). Those RPM numbers are estimating 27" tall tires and no torque converter slippage, so your actual RPMs may vary a little.
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Thanks, I really appreciate the answers. Now I'm just debating on selling my Jetta to buy one or wait until summer and pick one up.. I guess I'll go ahead and list the car forsale for a little more than I'd accept and if someone is seriously interested I'll sell it.
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OPINIONS??
1995 Geo Tracker LSi Sport Utility Convertible 2D. Miles 174,000. 1.6L 4cyl 5-Speed 4WD.
New Parts: Fuel Filter, 3-tires 2-used tires, Timing Belt Changed at 162,000 miles
150,000 Changed Following: Spark plugs, Wires, Distributor cap,Rotor.
New Canvas Top Purchase price: $400
Reasons for Selling:
Runs and Idles but dies when comes to a stop sometimes.
Front and Rear Oil seals have small leaks-Took to a mechanic and he said it would cost $750 to repair but just keep checking the oil and don't repair it till it gets bad. Told at 132,000 miles and still no problem with it.
Dented in Passenger fender at head light, Half of Passenger side grill missing from recently hitting Dear.
Drives 100miles to work a day RT, Looking for a newer mode of transportation-Just don't need it anymore.
Other: Clutch shifts good no manual transmissions problems.
Kelly Blue Book: Good: $1,426 Fair: $951
Feel's car fall's in between the two price's asking 800 OBO
If bought will throw in the Old Canvas good condition both side windows just missing back glass
(http://images.craigslist.org/5Id5Hd5M33Lb3J53H8c2gb17562b0a2e411c2.jpg)
(http://by167w.bay167.mail.live.com/att/GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=1&messageId=9f3068f5-591a-11e1-9832-002264c20336&Aux=50|0|8CEBB3E86DE4A20||0|0|0|0||&maxwidth=220&maxheight=160&size=Att&blob=MXxQMjE2MTkxOS5KUEd8aW1hZ2UvanBlZw_3d_3d)
(http://by167w.bay167.mail.live.com/att/GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=7&messageId=9f3068f5-591a-11e1-9832-002264c20336&Aux=50|0|8CEBB3E86DE4A20||0|0|0|0||&maxwidth=220&maxheight=160&size=Att&blob=N3xQMjE2MTkyOS5KUEd8aW1hZ2UvanBlZw_3d_3d)
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Anyone? It's 200 miles from me I was considering going tomorrow to try and possibly get it but not sure if I should try driving it home
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the p.o. was driving 100mi./day? he seemed to rely on it. your chances of getting it home sound ok, but take tools or tow it.
if the price makes sense to you, what could be bad?
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well I'm not exactly familiar with trackicks that's why I was asking opinions. I know another kick I looked at had an issue with it randomly dying (my vw had that issue and it was a maf sensor) not sure how it's set up on the kicks but that doesn't really scare me.
the oil leak issue worries me.. I'm assuming he is referring to the cam seal and main seal? at least that's what I get out of "front and rear seals leaking" but seriously $750 to replace? I mean the interior looks clean enough and from the pics he's sent me only the fender and grill are damaged. the hood isn't even touched.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj48/x8xballx/kick/P2161938.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj48/x8xballx/kick/P2161933.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj48/x8xballx/kick/P2161929.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj48/x8xballx/kick/P2161927.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj48/x8xballx/kick/P2161922.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj48/x8xballx/kick/P2161919.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj48/x8xballx/kick/5Id5Hd5M33Lb3J53H8c2gb17562b0a2e411c2.jpg)
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I would grab it. I drove 600 miles to get my 96, paid $3500, put another $1k to tune it up fix leaks..., luv it, but for $800 obo, seems like pretty risk free decision. Around here $800 gets you a part out rig. Let us know what you decide.
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Well as of now I'm driving up tomorrow (4 hour drive) and plan to look at it. Guy is supposed to call me tonight to work out when we'll be meeting but I'm intending to drive it home. And he told me $750 for it I asked straight up if he'd trust it or if I should haul it and he said he would trust driving it so.... Here we go... Wish me luck guys I'll keep you posted.. Been wanting one for awhile
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well forget that.. makes me really mad he wasted my time all day and knew I was going to come up first thing in the morning wanting to get it and sold it tonight.. really annoys me the way people pull that crap.. could of had the decency to let me know before making arangements to go 4 hours out of my way
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Aye, that sucks, buying and selling over the years my experience is most often people lie and have little consideration. Best strategy, like you are doing, do the research to find what you want,which might involve traveling to look at rigs you will never buy, jump om prospects, and bring cash. Best of luck.