ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: leopoldsami on February 05, 2012, 10:06:52 PM
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before to long I will have the money for a new motor. Ive read about the 1.6l and the 1.9tdi. and then the v6. What is the best motor for the sami. Eventually it will be just a trail rig but for now its my daily driver. I have an 86 sami 3" spoa, 30s with a rear locker. ill have about a $2000 budget
Thanks
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If you are going with the 1.6L, be sure to get the 16 valve engine. I have one in my Tracker, and it has been very reliable, and powerful enough for what I have wanted to do with it.
I did see a Sami a few years back with the standard "redneck engine swap for people with no imagination". ("Let's drop a 350 in 'er".) Looked good, but very nose-heavy. Hit a mud hole, and it just plowed right in. I don't know if the V6 would be quiet as bad...
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Light and small is better than heavy and powerful.
I have a "Webered" 1.6 8-valve in my Samurai. With the proper gearing (4.625s, stock t-case, 30" BFG ATs), it drives great in almost every situation. No "rowing", no bogging down in daily driving. It's not a "super-crawler", but it does what I want off road.
The 16-valve would get you better performance and mileage, but it takes more effort from an electrical standpoint to get it running.
I hope that this helps!
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http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/technical-discussion-performance-modify/best-samurai-engine-swap/ (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/technical-discussion-performance-modify/best-samurai-engine-swap/)
Currently the 16valve 1.6 is leading the votes, followed by the VW 1.9 Liter Turbo Diesel and 1.6l 8v respectively. :)
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I would install a 2.0/2.3 liter out of a Kicker, or better and a little more work out of an Aerio. 130-155 hp in same physical size/weight as the 1.6 liters. That is almost double the hp for approximately same amount of work, and a sweet running FI motor. If you do the work yourself there might be enough left over from your funds to 4 link the back because those Sammy springs are going to twist around the axle like a cinnamon roll.
I have the 2.7 V6 in my Tracker, and it is too big and too much for the Sammy. The 4 cylinders keep most of the Sammy characteristics, and lightness.
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[url]http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/technical-discussion-performance-modify/best-samurai-engine-swap/[/url] ([url]http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/technical-discussion-performance-modify/best-samurai-engine-swap/[/url])
Currently the 16valve 1.6 is leading the votes, followed by the VW 1.9 Liter Turbo Diesel and 1.6l 8v respectively. :)
Looks like that would be the best choice over all. Ive found more parts and conversions for the 16v 1.6l! cant wait to get this. Just have to spend four months in Georgia first! :o
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The 1.6 16-valve is a great engine and it is not costly to swap in. The 2.0 liter is probably a good choice too, but the swap kit is around $1300 alone. A $2,000 budget probably wouldn't cover that.
A less expensive, but also less potent version of 1.6 16-valve engine is the 1.6 8-valve. The 8-valve has better low rpm torque than the 16-valve and would be my choice for a primarily off-road Samurai. The 1600 8-valve will also be good on the highway, but not as good as the 16-valve, but both engines will need gearing. If you do not have t-case gearing, at least get a 4:1 case as this will reduce the high-range by 12% too.
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if it'll be a trail rig I'd go with the 1.6/9 turbo diesel. Nothing beats the offroad power, and you're already at your minimum requirements with a spring over and 30" tires.
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The diesels are cool for trail rigs. I would probably try to go the simplest route for one though and use the 1.6NA.
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I have considered just buying another truck to tow with and make the sami just my weekend toy. My biggest speed bump is finding a good donor motor or even one for sale locally or in neighboring towns. It just seems like having one shipped to the middle of colorado would be more money than its worth.
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Get in touch with Sean DeVinney from Aftermarket4x4. He will ship you a 1600 16-valve complete on a pallet for a little over $1,000 plus another $200-300 in shipping. Trailtough might also be worth giving a call too since they are swimming in Suzuki parts now.
They are definitely becoming harder to find though.
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There is only one choice for me, 1.6L 16v sohc,
just about everything else like the diesels are costly to obtain as well as adapting into the zuk, heavy beasts. cast iron blocks<aluminum
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Yes, I think the 1600 16-valve is a great choice as well and I've got them in two of my Samurais. They are great for any Samurai that will see any highway duty.
I also like the 1600 8-valves and I have them in two additional Samurais. They have more bottom end than the 16-valve and still have a lot longer legs than a 1300cc engine on the highway.
I too do not like the diesel due to it's weight. I think that even a 1.6NA would have over $1,000 in it when it is all said and done. It's not a cheap swap by any means.
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well looks like the 1.6l 16v will be my motor! I cant wait to get it. Now as far as the wiring harness is concerned is it best to send in my old one, or buy one with the conversion kit?
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I you buy the package from Sean, the harness will already be converted for a Samurai. I've also known people that have converted their own harness and have stated that it wasn't too difficult.
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Regear it. Yota carb from an early 70 s Corola. Header , cam, exhaust . And the 1300 will work it's A.. off for you.
The answer to your question is listed above......JMHO....Boxcar...
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Just consider there always seems to be hidden costs.
If you can lay your hands on the 16v and harness for the above price range... thats not a bad route. If you pull a junkyard motor... you run the risk of "it" being the reason its there to begin with. Consider it will take you a good while to pull the engine and definately a while to yank the harness... only then to pay $300 for a re-wire (or DIY).
Adapter/motor mount kit can run about $175
High flow fuel pump & misc hoses $100+
New clutch/surfacing while your already in there? $150+
High pressure fuel filter/hoses $?
There are probably other nickle n dime stuff in there too. Make sure you add it to the build section when you start!
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I'm looking at the same thing right now as far as the motor goes and I've evaluated all of the possiblities that are logical for me, and keeping the 1.3 seems best for me, mine is a stock DD, I just plan to do a full rebuild, all new exhaust, and like Boxcar said, the Corolla carb swap. But since you're going to eventually use it strictly as a weekend warrior, a full engine swap may be for you, but I've heard with the 1.6 you have to body lift at least an inch which will run you what? Another $100ish? Plus my carburetor will run even when there is an EMP ::) lol EFI will fail
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Cummins B Series. They make an inline 3.9L 4 cylinder! but its prolly really heavy and expensive.
I used the RRO adapter plate and motor mount system and can't say anything good about it. I won't use RRO anymore because of it.
On a side note I saw your samurai at the U-pull-n-pay in the springs a few weeks ago. Would have been when the yellow samurai was there with the motor in the back. Then I looked in your profile and we live like 10 miles away from each other. We should get together and hit some trails this summer.
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I'm looking at the same thing right now as far as the motor goes and I've evaluated all of the possiblities that are logical for me, and keeping the 1.3 seems best for me, mine is a stock DD, I just plan to do a full rebuild, all new exhaust, and like Boxcar said, the Corolla carb swap.
Just so everyone can compare apples to apples who have not went that road. I spend $600.00 in parts on a rebuild... which did including everything, water/oil pump, timing set, all new gaskets, rings, pistons, etc. Top end all I did was new retainer clips and all valves/seals. Then I had another $5-600 in machine work... 3 angle, bore, deck. You may not spend the what I did but just keep in mind if you "can" find a decent running 16v at the right price then the extra effort is worth it from a money-to-horsepower ratio. We are talking about roughly 30% increase in power. It really all depends on what you can do or find yourself i suppose.
But since you're going to eventually use it strictly as a weekend warrior, a full engine swap may be for you, but I've heard with the 1.6 you have to body lift at least an inch which will run you what? Another $100ish?
There are swap kits that do not require a body lift.
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I used the RRO adapter plate and motor mount system and can't say anything good about it. I won't use RRO anymore because of it.
I will second that. I had to drill out a motor mount b/c the fitment was not right. Not to mention they seem to take a long time to send parts compared to others.
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ive looked into this as well and if you do the 1.6 get the 16 valve. When i did mine the local machine shop assured me that the 1.3 has a stronger bottom end so i rebuilt my 1.3 and had put a 260 cam and 1.6 valves in it. it runs amazing and has enough power for everything i want it to do. And gearing would also help as well
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I have to chime back in.
So we are compairing apples to appless.
330 cam $159
Master rebuild kit$326.79
Water pump $35.95
Header $144.95
Yota Corolla 1200cc square boar carby $95 NEW
$761.69
$500-$600 Machine work ( probably a bit high , but I'll go with it..)
2" exhaust with flowmaster $125 -$200 in my shop....Depending on how much I like you.....
$1386-$1486 Brand new 90 + hp 1300 Zuke
16 valve:
You'll need the complete engine with all the hoses and pulleys. You'll need the fan, starter, alternator, coil, air cleaner, exhaust manifold and head pipe. With 16-valve engines, you'll need the engine wiring harness, everything attached to the harness, under dash wiring harness, ECM, instrument cluster and air cleaner assembly. Grab the catalytic converter if you can. The donor vehicles wiring harness will need to be modified for use in the Samurai as well as the Samurai speedometer which will need the speed sensor from the donor vehicle adapted to it.
Then pay someone to adapt the harness....
$?????
Petro works compleat adapter kit ( no body lift required)
$259
fuel pump $44 for a relay crappy one...
Once installed and working: 99hp and a used engine.........
We have done a few of these swaps in the past and they worked well.
IMHO $ x hp gains VS. complexity and added problems the Hitachi ECM is prone to...Not a good swap...
If I had my hart set on a Suzuki 1600 cc swap , I'd opt for the 8 valve with a Yota carb . Better torque / half the headache.
But you will still have a used motor for the same $$$$$
Again JMHO...Not trying to start a tussle here....Boxcar...
PS: I just searched the parts and used the first price that came up, (to be fair...) EXEPT FOR THE Petro works adapter kit...It's the only one I'd recommend......Boxcar...
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what about the 22r?
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If I had my hart set on a Suzuki 1600 cc swap , I'd opt for the 8 valve with a Yota carb . Better torque / half the headache.
The 16V has more peak torque than an 8V and has a very flat torque curve, it stomps all over the 8V.
I used a small bonnet bulge to clear the extra height, it keeps the cntre of gravity much lower than using a body lift. The Petroworks kit is good but lowering the engine gives more issues with sump clearance if you don't run a suspension lift.
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How does the 16v match up against the 22r?
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