ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: 87Suzi on February 09, 2012, 06:36:34 PM
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I just got a 1987 Samurai and the previous owner claims to have put fresh oil in the transfer case and replaced ONE worn U Joint, the furthest one back. There was still a clank sound when you first give it gas. It isn't a constant sound and stops as soon as it starts, it does it in all gears when I let off the throttle and push the pedal again. Like when I shift and push the gas pedal back in it does it then stops until I release the pedal and have to apply throttle again. I just took it by a local mechanic who apparently lives in his shop and he jacked the rear end up and turned the wheels, there is a little play so he said there was some slack in the chain in the case, but another guy there rode in it with me and says it's the two piece drive shaft going from T case to Rear diff. I'm not sure which to start with. Anyone know if I should be worried and where I can get a one piece shaft for CHEAP also some suggestions to try and see if it's the T case. Thanks
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You should replace both U-Joints at the same time. The slop from the first one going bad helps the second one go bad faster, which makes the new one go bad faster, which makes the other new one go faster, and so on until you finally have two bad u-joints at the same time. :D
Might be drive-line slop from damaged splines, I would take the driveline apart to check. You will also want to make sure when he put the driveshaft together he has it setup properly to be balanced. http://www.acksfaq.com/driveshaftvideo.htm (http://www.acksfaq.com/driveshaftvideo.htm)
As for replacing the driveshaft, you need a 2-piece since the transfer case has a flange on it instead of a slip yoke.
It sounds like bad u-joints, but you might have a broken t-case mount as well. When you take off does your t-case shifter move a lot?
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Also, I replaced both U Joints in the rear, and the transmission mount.
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I haven't looked at the shifter to see if it moves but while I was under there I tried moving stuff around to see if it was loose and it didn't seem to move.
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I have the same noise as far as I can tell from your description. I have tracked it down to a combination of different items within the rear driveline, the transfer case output bearings are worn and there is excessive backlash in the R&P and sidegears. As you apply power the driveline turns a bit taking up the slack and then the slip joint cocks slightly causing thepop/clank noise. If I am ever so carefull with applying clutch and power, I can reduce to almost eliminate the noise when first starting off and when shifting on pavement.
Now tell the mechanic that said a slack TC chain to go back to school and NEVER visit him again. The transfercase chain is used ONLY for the front output and has nothing to do with the rear driveline at all.
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Thanks a lot. And I've discovered the same, taking off easy and shifting nice and smooth and not allowing my RPMs to drop too low reduces the sound and in higher gears its almost nonexisistant. Thanks for the help
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Now tell the mechanic that said a slack TC chain to go back to school and NEVER visit him again. The transfercase chain is used ONLY for the front output and has nothing to do with the rear driveline at all.
Not to mention the Sammy has gears in the Tcase instead of a chain. :D
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LOL, and that too! (kick brain itus)
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I have had a bad rear u joint loosen up the nut on the pinion, and don,t use made in America u-joints.
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Is it SPOA'd? And if so has the rear axle been rotated????? If so your rear U joint cold be going into a torque bind.....
And as the previous responder stated . It's a gear driven T case...I wouldn't be using that mechanic...........Boxcar...
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Spring under Boxcar.
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Then it's a SPUA...Look at the u joints and slip joints first. ALL of them.
Then, if all is in order, drop the rear u joint (at the t case) and while the Zuke is in gear,
rotate the rear t case flange back and forth. If you still cant locate the "clunk" check your rear axle. (same method) Remember that your axles allways have a certain amount of play in them . It's gear lash.
If that doesn't locate the problem ....
Look at the suspension components. Bad bushings can sometimes cause clunking noises while under sudden loads......Good luck....Boxcar...
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After driving it for a week I couldn't figure it out and it's driving me insane so I went to another mechanic on my way home today, asked him to watch and listen and where it sounded like it was. Did a couple takeoffs to show how it isn't a constant thing and happens once in a while, he says hr saw the rearend "jump" at about the same time as the sound. I've heard of axle wrap before but never had someone associate a sound with it. Could this be a mount somewhere that I'm not seeing or could it be all of this raw rwhp these things have? I'm going with the mount option ::)
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I had the same type of noise. Very annoying. Does it make the noise when engine breaking? For me the noise ended up being 4th gear slapping off its cluster gear. Its connected the the rest of the gear shaft via a needle bearing so its able to rotate somewhat independently from all the other gears. It was clanking because the motor mounts were wearing out resulting in the motor/tranny not sitting parallel to the frame rails. This a jar resulted in stresses between the fixed transfer case and out of place tranny outputshaft. These stresses put pressure on the rear output shaft bearing and 4th gear/input shaft (same casting). I actually destroyed both of these after letting the problem get worse and worse. Just look at the transmission mount and make sure its in the middle of its bracket.
When I replaced the tranny I made sure everything was straight and true with the mounts and all was quiet.
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he says hr saw the rearend "jump" at about the same time as the sound. I've heard of axle wrap before but never had someone associate a sound with it.
Look at Boxcar's post above yours - if there's anything loose in the rear suspension, you may be able to get enough movement in the axle to cause a UJ to bind.
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I still say it is a combo of excessive clearances with transfer case output needle bearings and slip joint wear being the root cause.
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I've looked and nothing seems to be loose. If I knew some of the common loose suspension points I could give them a thorough going over. Also, you can see where the bump stops are hitting, maybe this is also caused by the same problem? I understand they are too prevent the body from bouncing all the way down but I haven't bound the suspension up or hit any serious bumps.