ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Zukipilot on April 19, 2004, 08:04:35 AM
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OK, summer is here and it's full strength riding time. What MODS did everyone do this winter and what do they have planned for the summer?
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Oh Yea, I forgot to list mine :P
This winter:
-new interior
-Rear axle rotation
-Front end widening
-beefed up half shafts
-power steering
-new lockout hubs
-new 33x12.50 GoodYear MTR's
This summer:
- finish stripping the Tracker
- decide on what to do with the tracker :-/
- fix rust spots on the Kick
- new rear axle shafts
- and what ever else comes to mind and time allows.
Zig
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What mods this winter......hmmmmmm well
1. Got mine runnin.
2. hmmmm thats about it
To do list not necessarily in order of importance
1. x over steering(wont go wheelin with out it)
2. 5.12's( I got a set of 4.62's w/ only 7,000 miles, but i need the whole hybrid set up)
3. polish the turd(lookin crappy after sittin in garage all winter)
4. save $ for coils
5. find a decent priced toy front end(possible future swap)
6. find deisel motor,and or kit
7. find a cheap kick for my wife
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You forgot to add:
- under carriage lights for night wheeling
- wheel it to find out other areas of the Kick which can be mod'd for better stability and control
- have fun with my Suki..... ;D
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the winter:
frame lift
gas tank
gut out
exhuast
body work
the summer:
strut mount flip (1/2 done)
rear recever(sp)
build a lift kit
locked hybrid front end.
hybrid CV's
more and more and more stuff...
stu
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Gotta redo my center console/transmission shift lever and boots.
Rip out all the carpet, and rhino-line it, or whatever.
Finish hanging bells on my roll cage (but that's another story altogether).
Third brake light to the middle of my spare, on the swing-arm carrier.
Fender Flares.
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lets see...winter mods...gas tank filled and new clutch ::)
summer mods.
turbo
calmini 6" lift
rear locker and
33" tires ( dont know what brand yet)
15" screen in the dash
new seats/carpet
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Winter mods...
- Put my lift in :P
- New exhaust
- K&N filter
- Rear locker
Near future mods
- Axel rotation and longer shocks (hopefuly this week)
- Raise gas tank
- Rocker guards
- Custom Front & rear bumpers
- Skid plates
Summer mods.
- Tube Safari doors (half doors)
- Calmini T-case gears (Only if I get a phat tax return)
- Cb radio & whip
- rip out all the carpet and Hurculine the tub.
- Install 6x9s in the rear side panels, and replace stock front speakers.
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Hmmm..lessee...I'm building a 289 right now...but that's for my '66 mustang.....
Maybe a winch and a swing away tire carrier
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Well lets see... ::)
I made a new long lower arms for the rear suspension
I Raised the motor 3 inches
Cut the frame and dropped the front lower control arms 1 1/2 inches
Permanantly flipped the tie rods to the top of the knuckle
AND added a 1 3/4 inch spacer to the front coils
Which turns the 3 inch kit into a 4 inch....BUT all that was really a side effect... to make room for a Prototype center mount Calmini Anvil. ;D The whole front diff is only like 8 to 10 inches wide. WHY? Cause then I can make the Cv shafts 6 inches longer, which decreases the angle on the joints, which means more clearance while increasing strength. It was a lot of work but it was a win win situation with the exception of all the labor time.
I "monster trucked" the front fenders to make room for the 35s.
New rocker skids that are High clearance
New belly plan
SUMMER PLANS INCLUDE
Building a nonrotating centerlink
Continued pressure testing. ;)
Mike
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JUST NEW TIRES FOR ME :'( ..... I HAVE THE CALMINI 6" COMBO KIT, SUPERWINCH MANUAL HUBS & 31X10.50'S ON IT NOW...........NEXT I WOULD LIKE TO UPGRADE TO STEEL FRONT HOUSING & 3RD PLUS LOCK IT. ............MATTY D. 8)
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Winter Mods:
- 6" Calmini Combo Lift
- Custom front and rear bumpers (rear bumper is an air tank and will be completed in the next week or so)
- Finally fixed my shifters and boots
- Replaced the back seat
- Installed a Tape Deck and Amp
- Bunch of offroading lights
- Open element air filter
Summer Mods:
- Finishing air bumper
- Snorkel, smoke stack, lengthened diff/trans/tcase vent tubes
- Modifying my skidplate to fit after the Clalmini diff drop during the lift.
- Maybe power steering
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WOW we really lost alot on this one. :'(
stu
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Yea, I just had an extra mod for the summer, replace the oli pump gasket :) Oh welll after over 200K miles of abuse, I guess it needed a break.
Zig
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mine was stock as of last nov...
winter mods were:
pull motor
raise gas tank
build new front and rear tube bumpers
gut carpet, hurculiner inside
repair rusted body mounts (2)
homemade 2.5" body lift
homemade tube roof rack
install winch
3rd brake light on top
gut stereo system
strut flip
extend rear shocks
new lockout hubs
summer mods are:
30" SS TSL SX (got wed)
install motor (got today) see post on calmini cam
lights
find a high amp alt that will fit easy good to dream :-/
calmini 3" sus lift ($$$$!)
rear and front gears($$$!)
lockers($$$$!)
new 2" exhaust
misc body work, cut out inside of fender wells
paint body
fender flares
new seats
figure out how to lower front axle?
get the D|removethispart|@#$ thing running so i can have fun with all this time and $$ i got in it!!! :P
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Yea, I just had an extra mod for the summer, replace the oli pump gasket :) Oh welll after over 200K miles of abuse, I guess it needed a break.
Zig
Zig, I got a question for ya.
I switched to 10-40 Full Synthetic oil, then I drove to Moab and
back, I now have a low oil light on at idle when warm, the oil was
really dirty, so I changed it again, thinking the oil had got thinned
out and needed replaced, but I used regular 10-40 instead of the
Synth stuff.
Oil light is still on, now I'm wondering if the Synth stuff has caused
some problems, as this all sort of started at once. So if the oil pump
gasket is leaking, would it cause this, or would you think the oil pump
is getting weak, still the orig pump, now with 268,000 miles on it.
Engine has 23,000 miles on it since rebuild, so I don't think it's
worn bearings, but I could have increased wear from the turbo, I
didn't think it would be that, but it's a possibility so I'm not ruling
it out.
So what do you think ???
Wild
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What brand of oil and filter?
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Is the oil level actually low?
Is the motor noisey when the light is on?
Was the oil pressure sender ever replaced,plugged up or leaking?
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The Synth Oil was Schaffers, my Dad uses it in
his Semi trucks and my Bro says it's better than
Mobil 1, he did the friction test himself.
The oil I'm using after the change is Wally World
10-40, just for a quick oil change to see if the
old oil was thinned/bad
The filter is a Napa Gold (Wix)
Wild
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Is the oil level actually low?
Is the motor noisey when the light is on?
Was the oil pressure sender ever replaced,plugged up or leaking?
Oil is full, motor is normal sounding when light is on,
sender is stock, never replaced and not leaking
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Schaeffers is good if you're going for extended OCI's like big trucks but I'm still not a big fan of synthetics if you're doing 3000 mile OCI. NAPA Gold is an excellent filter. I'd try Pennzoil High Mileage 10w30 and a AC Delco PF53 Filter and see if it helps. You have no miles on the engine so I would also suspect the sending unit. Didn't you lose a turbo or something at MOAB? Maybe it got damaged during the manifold swap.
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Ohh $#!+, I never thought that the bearing from
the scattered turbo could of messed up the oil pump.
Is that what you meant ???
I should tear down the oil pump and inspect.
I didn't plan on the short change interval, I just
thought I had a problem with oil contamination
so I changed it as a precaution.
I'm thinking that all this happened from using
the Synth oil, tho I don't know how it could have,
but what do you think, I switch to the Synth then
the turbo blows and the oil PSI starts to drop at idle
:(
I think the engine bearings will be OK since they had
filtered oil, but dang, all of a sudden all this trouble :P
Wild
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Ohh $#!+, I never thought that the bearing from
the scattered turbo could of messed up the oil pump.
Is that what you meant ???
I should tear down the oil pump and inspect.
I didn't plan on the short change interval, I just
thought I had a problem with oil contamination
so I changed it as a precaution.
I'm thinking that all this happened from using
the Synth oil, tho I don't know how it could have,
but what do you think, I switch to the Synth then
the turbo blows and the oil PSI starts to drop at idle
:(
I think the engine bearings will be OK since they had
filtered oil, but dang, all of a sudden all this trouble  :P
Wild
It's a little hard to diagnose from all the way across the country but here goes:
- The failed turbo could have damaged something, it depends on how you routed the oil lines.
- I would try the simple stuff first. If you don't have an oil pressure gauge, get one and a new sending unit. (I had a Chevy Astro that showed low oil pressure, replaced the sending unit and it still had low pressure. Installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge and it turns out everything was fine. The van went another 100,000 hard miles) Don't trust the light, especially with the turbo.
- If the gauge confirms your low pressure I would try the oil pump next.
- If it's not the pump then I'd say the bearings are shot.
Since you said your Dad has big trucks did you think to have an oil analysis run on the old oil? It could give you some idea of whats going on without turning a wrench on the engine.
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I though about having the oil analyzed, didn't
do it yet but I have the oil still.
My sending unit is before the filter so it is possible
something has gotten stuck into it's workings, I'm
going to get a Mech guage and test the PSI, as soon
as I get a starter, it began acting up really bad yesterday.
Oil lines are routed from main galley to the turbo them
out of the turbo into the sump. Anything that came from
the turbo went into the sump, and could have gone thru
the oil pump too.
I also was thinking the pressure relief valve could have
junk wedged into it, so I will clean it out also.
Thanks for the replys :)
Wild
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Good Luck my friend, keep us posted. :)
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Zig, I got a question for ya.
I switched to 10-40 Full Synthetic oil, then I drove to Moab and
back, I now have a low oil light on at idle when warm, the oil was
really dirty, so I changed it again, thinking the oil had got thinned
out and needed replaced, but I used regular 10-40 instead of the
Synth stuff.
Oil light is still on, now I'm wondering if the Synth stuff has caused
some problems, as this all sort of started at once. So if the oil pump
gasket is leaking, would it cause this, or would you think the oil pump
is getting weak, still the orig pump, now with 268,000 miles on it.
Engine has 23,000 miles on it since rebuild, so I don't think it's
worn bearings, but I could have increased wear from the turbo, I
didn't think it would be that, but it's a possibility so I'm not ruling
it out.
So what do you think ???
Wild
I would think that's the oil pump. I still had great oil pressure and no light coming on (unless I let it get low). And a leak like I had you KNOW something is wrong. In 4-low pulling it on the trailer to take it to the shop it left a trail >:( I have n o idea if the oil caused it. I've never been a buy brand name oil type, or change it every 3000 miles. I would not think an oil would cause a pump failure, well maybe if you used some extremely thick oil that did not need to be in there, but synthetic 10-40 I doubt it :-/
Zig