ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: Sundance58301 on March 05, 2012, 03:48:45 PM
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'93 Kick, 1.6L 16V, 5 spd
I commute 75 miles/day RT and lately I've notice that it will
cut out like twice at speed and then resolve.
Seems like it does it at least once every trip. It's starting to
make me nervous.
New rotor and cap a month or so ago.
Ran Heet twice through it. Ran Marvel Mystery once.
Still the couple chuggs.
Ideas??
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when was the last the fuel filter was changed? simple to over look, i had the same problem with mine at highway speed. it would cut out, was just junk in the old filter.
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As to the fuel filter...... no idea when it was changed. I have had
it for like 15K miles.
The little beast puked this morning in town. Had to catch a ride
to get my big truck and trailer to drag the little #|removethispart|@%*! home.
It just plain died. No firing at all.
Ideas??
I am going to bring a tool box to check spark and a can of
ether to see if it will fire (if there is spark)
The EGR has been screwing up for a few months. Rough idle,
erratic idle, and reduced MPG. But I don't think it's realted
to the beast dying..... is it??
Just plain mad at the Zuki now. I'll get over it.
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Could it be the fuel pump??? How does one test that?
Thanks all
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Could it be the fuel pump??? How does one test that?
Thanks all
I also responded to your post on zuwharrie, to give you ideas on what to check.
Take the gas cap off and listen while someone turns the key on. If you can hear a "buzzing" noise for about 3 seconds, the fuel pump is working.
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Thanks Skyhanger......... great suggestions.
I got it back on the flatbed and this weekend I'll check
it out.
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I pulled the left taillight and what a mess, loaded with mud and wet.
Could not figure out which is the pink fuel pump wire.
One wire was broken. Looks like a ground, has 2 wires merging to a
black one.
I sprayed ether in the snorkel and it fired and ran just as long as
the ether would allow. So it's a fuel issue.
Suggestions??
Thanks all
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The electrical tape mess is trailer wiring job from previous
owner I think. I will be cleaning that up with shrink tube.
I already patched the fender well when I got it, but there is a
hole in the rear toward the bumper that moisture and crud still
gets in. Another patch.
Hope I can get this going soon. The big 6.5 1 ton duallie is hurting
the pocketbook commuting.
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I pulled the left taillight and what a mess, loaded with mud and wet.
Could not figure out which is the pink fuel pump wire.
One wire was broken. Looks like a ground, has 2 wires merging to a
black one.
I sprayed ether in the snorkel and it fired and ran just as long as
the ether would allow. So it's a fuel issue.
Suggestions??
Thanks all
Unfortunately, that is pretty typical to find in trackicks. I would definitely remove all the trailer wiring and patch the wires up, if you have no plans to ever need trailer lights.
A lot of times you have to cut out some of the wires that run through the connector and just splice them directly together, since the ends are so badly corroded that they will never make connection with each other.
The proper way to fix everything is to solder the wires together and use shrink tube. But you can probably get by with using crimp connectors and shrink tubing, to make sure any future dirt/water/etc. can't get to the wires.
I don't recall that any of the wires change colors, when they go through the connector, so you should be able to clean the wires off a little and match up the colors, to make sure you are connecting them correctly.
If you think you still need a wiring diagram, there should be some on acksfaq.com, suzukiinfo.com, autozone.com and you can probably find some by doing a google search.
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There is one connector that has 9 wires going in, and
only 8 going out!! The extra wire is blue. But I see no
loose blue wire.
The broken wire in my hand is 2 each black with red strips spliced
together to one each plain black one....
Where is the fuel pump relay?
Thanks again Sky
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Did you try another brand of gas?
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Did you try another brand of gas?
Puzzled on this one....... it won't start. Same gas station for
some time.
I can see poor gas would make it run rough, but a zero fire?
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There is one connector that has 9 wires going in, and
only 8 going out!! The extra wire is blue. But I see no
loose blue wire.
The broken wire in my hand is 2 each black with red strips spliced
together to one each plain black one....
Where is the fuel pump relay?
Thanks again Sky
The fuel pump relay is attached to the bracket under the ECM. There is a main relay there and a fuel pump relay. They both look identical. The way you can tell which one is the fuel pump relay is there is a pink wire in the plug that goes to the fuel pump relay (actually there is a pink and a pink/black wire both in that connector).
The blue wire goes to the rear door lock/unlock motor (if you have power locks). If you don't have power locks, then it likely won't have the blue wire beyond the connector, since there is nothing for it to run to.
The only black/red wire I see on the wiring diagram in that area runs to the back door switch. What that does is make the dome light come on, when the back door is opened (if the dome light switch is in the center position).
The plain black wire is a ground wire. It is a ground for the fuel pump, along with other things. So that wire will need to be grounded, for the fuel pump to run/work.
The power wire for the fuel pump is actually pink/black (pink with a black stripe). But there are no other wires in that connector that are a pink color, so it should be easy to find. If you don't see a pink wire, maybe someone has "fixed" it before and spliced a different color wire in (look for a wire that has been taped up).
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I got the Kick going...... I was able to clean out the plug
and packed it with dielectric grease. I plugged the hole
that was letting crap in.
To be safe I direct wired the fuel pump wire, bypassing
the connector.
Now to get the EGR problem resolved.....
Thanks for all the help, especially Skyhanger.... this site
is great/
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Glad you got it going.
For the EGR, it probably needs the EGR and the EGR passages in the head and intake cleaned. EGR passages being clogged/restricted is very common on 16Vs.
You can remove the EGR valve and carefully scrape the build up out of the 2 larger holes with a screwdriver (the holes are tapered, so don't dig/gouge the sides). Then you can take a small drill bit (or a small wire) and clean the build up out of the tube that the rubber hose connects to. I then use brake cleaner and compressed air and continue to work on getting all the build up removed from the inside of the valve. You also need to push on the rubber diaphragm with your fingers to make sure it moves back and forth freely (spray the inside of the EGR valve down with brake cleaner and work the diaphragm, to get it loosened up and moving freely).
Now you need to clean the passages in the head and intake. One of the passages goes through the backside of the head and ends up over at the exhaust manifold. The other goes kinda forward and there are 4 different ports that go through to the intake (you likely won't be able tell what port you are cleaning, you just have to work a stiff piece of wire, or a speedo cable, in and out and around and around and get everything broken up as good as you can). I also use lots of brake cleaner and compressed air, to help get everything broken up and cleaned out. I usually use at least 2 cans of brake cleaner, when cleaning the head and intake passages.
Sky hi ranger. ;)
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I broke off both EGR bolt/nuts trying to remove them
a couple months ago.... but it's hanging on there. In fact
I think I'll need to gently hammer it to get it off.
The plan is that when it's warmer, I am going to pull the
whole intake off to get at those broken studs..
One guy suggested wire welding on nuts to what remains
of the studs rather than remove the intake.... not sure yet
on that one.
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I broke off both EGR bolt/nuts trying to remove them
a couple months ago.... but it's hanging on there. In fact
I think I'll need to gently hammer it to get it off.
The plan is that when it's warmer, I am going to pull the
whole intake off to get at those broken studs..
One guy suggested wire welding on nuts to what remains
of the studs rather than remove the intake.... not sure yet
on that one.
It would be next to impossible, to weld nuts on the broken off EGR bolts, with the engine still in the vehicle. There just isn't enough room between the firewall and the intake.
If you pull the intake, or the engine, then I'd say that welding nuts on would be the best bet on getting the bolts out.
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Just found out the CV axle is bad..... she's going on Craigs
List...... gonna upgrade to a 98 with 1.6 16V
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Passenger or Drivers side?
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passenger side.....
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Ah, the pain in the ass side. :)
They aren't that hard to swap out, but I completely understand getting tired of a rig and replacing it with a working one.
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Yes, I would have to put a few hours of labor and a couple
hundred bucks into it... it runs well and uses 1/2 quart of oil
every 3,000 to 4,000 miles..
But, up here it will bring $1500 the way it sits. Hunters and ice
fisherman snap them up.