ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Performance / Modify => Topic started by: talonxracer on March 12, 2012, 12:37:52 PM
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Well I recieved my Hanma light bar today, 236$ to the door. It is 20", 40 3watt LED light.
First impression upon opening the box was that it did have some heft to it, very solid construction. The cooling fins on the back are ever so slightly thinner than the Rigid light bars(going from memory). tempered/hardened glass lens that is both glued(with sealant) and clamped in place. "O" ring cushion on the mount/housing bolts, stout aluminum mounting legs that are basically identicle to the Rigid mounts with rubber cushions. 14gauge high temp wiring
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1330.jpg)
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1331.jpg)
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1328.jpg)
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1327.jpg)
so I am thinking either down on the light bar
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1325.jpg)
or up on the targa bar, what do you think?
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_13261.jpg)
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Where do you plan to use it - as a matter of fact - don't answer that, it has to be used be for off road use.
Neither location is optimal, but the targa is the better of the two - I'm assuming it's a flood pattern, so the higher up the better.
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LOL, yeah off road only..........I will be mounting it low right now I do believe.
I am starting to fab up a lightbar mount that incorporates a windshield visor, it attaches to each "A"
pillar, that will be a better location.
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Could we ask where you purchased them?
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Here you go, http://www.hanma-auto.com/ (http://www.hanma-auto.com/)
I ordered it by email, contacted the company and they replied promptly, payment via paypal and shipping via DHL or UPS(costly). They shipped it last tuesday and it arrived today.
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LOL, yeah off road only..........I will be mounting it low right now I do believe.
I am starting to fab up a lightbar mount that incorporates a windshield visor, it attaches to each "A"
pillar, that will be a better location.
I do believe we're on the same page - over the top of the windscreen, with something to prevent glare off the hood - that I would consider optimal.
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i would LOVE a longer version of this for across the top of the windshield of my tracker. only question i have is do they have a light cover? cops around here would be on me in an instant and ticket me for no light cover on one of these. last time i got pulled over for no light covers on some lights on my old jeep that weren't even wired up. after he ticketed me ($109) i asked him where his light covers were for his light bar since it was way more distracting than my non wired up off road lights. his exact words were "f*** off loser". gotta love those guys haha.
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They do not make a cover that I seen on their site. I plan on sewing up some vinyl to make a cover, not because of any law we have, but for protection. In fact here in NY any lights that are installed but not connected are illegal. As long as your off road lights are not switched to be on whenever the rest of the lights are on, but are independently switched you are golden.
And I used to get the usual cop attitude as well, right up untill my high and tight marine corp haircut turned grey, now they are far more lienient. LOL,LOL,LOL
The state troopers told me that they were told by the politicians running the dept that if someone has money to modify their vehicle they have money to pay for tickets, they told me to simply consider it a tax...........oh well, what ya gonna do....
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Ah yeah it should be easy enough to make a cover. Laws up here in B.C. are pretty silly. If you follow every single law in the book then a lot of bone stock new vehicles are illegal lol. Pretty much any mod you do to your vehicle is illegal if you go exactly by the book to. Aaanyways i could go on and on about that but i wont haha. How much of a strain do these lights put on your alternator? Would dual batterys be advised for a longer version?
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The beauty of the LED lights is they take very little amperage to run. The 120W LED light bar only has an 8 amp draw. They don't even bother using a relay when your using that little amperage. Most headlights use between 10-20 amps apiece. Most stock stereo's use more then 10. :)
If you go to their sight you can see the amperage draw on each of the different light bars:
http://www.hanma-auto.com/products/category/21/led-led-light-bars (http://www.hanma-auto.com/products/category/21/led-led-light-bars)
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oh wow that's awesome! i'm thinking i need to save my pennies and get one of these. would definitely beat having 4 big round lights on top of the windshield like i was planning on doing before.
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The beauty of the LED lights is they take very little amperage to run. The 120W LED light bar only has an 8 amp draw. They don't even bother using a relay when your using that little amperage. Most headlights use between 10-20 amps apiece. Most stock stereo's use more then 10. :)
If you go to their sight you can see the amperage draw on each of the different light bars:
[url]http://www.hanma-auto.com/products/category/21/led-led-light-bars[/url] ([url]http://www.hanma-auto.com/products/category/21/led-led-light-bars[/url])
Just so you understand it - a watt is a watt - whether it's an LED lamp, an HID lamp, a halogen lamp, or a good old fashioned incandescent lamp - a watt is a watt.
To find watts, multiply the voltage by the current - if someone tells you his 120W lamp draws 8A at 12V, that makes it a 96W lamp - the only way you're going to get 120W at an 8A draw is if you're running a 15V feed.
Your average halogen headlamp has a 55/60W bulb, that's 4.6/5A apiece, your average fog/spot lamp uses a 55W H3 bulb, thats 4.6A - if you're going to run a 96W LED bar, you going to need a relay, because the average 12V automotive switch is rated to switch 3A at 12V - it WILL switch 8A, but not for very long.
The primary advantage of LED lamps is their efficiency - they convert more of the electrical energy into light (lumens) and less into heat, a second advantage is life, under normal circumstances, LEDs have an extremely long life.
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oh wow that's awesome! i'm thinking i need to save my pennies and get one of these. would definitely beat having 4 big round lights on top of the windshield like i was planning on doing before.
That would actually depend on your intended usage - your big round lamps may not light the area in front of your truck as brightly as an LED bar will, but your LED bar isn't going to light up the desert a mile ahead of you either.
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oh wow that's awesome! i'm thinking i need to save my pennies and get one of these. would definitely beat having 4 big round lights on top of the windshield like i was planning on doing before.
That would actually depend on your intended usage - your big round lamps may not light the area in front of your truck as brightly as an LED bar will, but your LED bar isn't going to light up the desert a mile ahead of you either.
good info. i am not looking for distance as much as brightness and area light up. there arent too many places around here i would need light for a super long distance. i think the led lights would be better for my application than the traditional round lights.
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Now here is the perfect switch, rated to 20amps. I have two coming along with a few other switches(lockers,lights,compressor)http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=V1D1J66B-AFCZL-1ZL&cat=5
(http://www.otrattw.com/prodimages/AFCZL.jpg)
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fordem: Yep, I remember my electronics class. I'm just going off their page. :D
LED's can get weird when your trying to get numbers, some are going off an equivalency scale rather then true watt usage. Are they judging the bar as a 120W equivalent? Your hit the nail on the head with your lumens comment, you can't use candle power as that is a measurement of a single beam of light and LED light bars use multiple bulbs.
Another advantage of the LED lights is they tend to be sturdier. I had my hood come up at 30+ and smash right a pair of Rigid Industry LEDs. Only damage was having to straighten them out. Now I have locking hood pins. :)
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You also need to remember that seldom does your electrical system run at 12vdc, and if it does, you are having issues........LOL..... 14.3vdc is your friend...LOL
You could run a power supply to bump up the voltage to 24vdc for the LED's without consuming alot of juice. I have also seen battery setups that use 2 batteries, one for the vehicle and another used in conjunction for the LED lighting at 24vdc.
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Now here is the perfect switch, rated to 20amps. I have two coming along with a few other switches(lockers,lights,compressor)http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=V1D1J66B-AFCZL-1ZL&cat=5
([url]http://www.otrattw.com/prodimages/AFCZL.jpg[/url])
The links are broken - and as a matter of fact, I get a '403' forbidden error even from the default page of that server
I think I'll keep my compressor on a relay - a 40A one minimum - it's rated at 30A, and the first time I used it, it melted the plastic of the 30A fuse that was supplied - it didn't blow the fuse, just melted the plastic - I tightened up the clips replaced it with a decent quality fuse, and have had no further issues there.
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fordem: Yep, I remember my electronics class. I'm just going off their page. :D
LED's can get weird when your trying to get numbers, some are going off an equivalency scale rather then true watt usage. Are they judging the bar as a 120W equivalent? Your hit the nail on the head with your lumens comment, you can't use candle power as that is a measurement of a single beam of light and LED light bars use multiple bulbs.
Another advantage of the LED lights is they tend to be sturdier. I had my hood come up at 30+ and smash right a pair of Rigid Industry LEDs. Only damage was having to straighten them out. Now I have locking hood pins. :)
Welcome to the world of consumer electronics advertising - where manufacturers quote the highest number they can justify - where 20W per channel RMS, 4 channel amplifiers become 100W PMP per channel, where 300mbps wireless networks can deliver less than 100 mbps, and apparently 120W LED light bars can do it whilst consuming less than 100W.
And all of the above can legally be done under the existing "truth in advertising" legislation.
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Now here is the perfect switch, rated to 20amps. I have two coming along with a few other switches(lockers,lights,compressor)http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=V1D1J66B-AFCZL-1ZL&cat=5
([url]http://www.otrattw.com/prodimages/AFCZL.jpg[/url])
The links are broken - and as a matter of fact, I get a '403' forbidden error even from the default page of that server
I think I'll keep my compressor on a relay - a 40A one minimum - it's rated at 30A, and the first time I used it, it melted the plastic of the 30A fuse that was supplied - it didn't blow the fuse, just melted the plastic - I tightened up the clips replaced it with a decent quality fuse, and have had no further issues there.
Try this link, http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=V1D1J66B-AFCZL-1ZL&cat=5 (http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=V1D1J66B-AFCZL-1ZL&cat=5)
Even with the switch rated for 20A, I will still use a relay, every foot of excess wire will see a voltage drop, why create a subpar electrical nightmare???? LOL
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So, when do we get some night shots of the new lights in action? :)
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I am going to get them connected up electrically today. I think I will just use a generic switch for now and leave it hanging free untill the zombie switch gets here. That way I can snag a couple pics tonight.
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Love them LED lights. Just swapped out my broken back up's for LED ones. Nice stuff.
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The Zombie Lights switch I ordered got here in yesterdays mail. I got a chance to put it in and finish up the wiring. The switch doesnt fit perfectly, the fit on the sides is fine, but the rocker shell itself contacts the dash a little when fully inserted and wont work, I had to space the switch out just a hair. The other option(and what I will do here shortly) is to bevel the end of the rocker contacting the dash. With the location I picked it is the top that has issues, if I put it in the lower slot the bottom end would need work. With two switchs installed both ends of the actual rocker shell will need work to have enough clearance.
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1334.jpg)
Here is just the high beams
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1336.jpg)
with LED's
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1337.jpg)
They already saved me impact damage from 3 deer blitzing off the mtn because of a forest fire that just started. The amount of quality useable light that goes out in front directly as well as to the sides is incredible. I need to play around with aiming them a little, they are pointed just slightly down right now from the looks of it. Now to get a spot pattern
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I ordered several of Hanma's new LED lights to use as driving lights, they are 4 x 10w CREE modules with 25 degree spot pattern. I have 2 on the way to compliment the flood pattern of the 180w light bar, 138$ shipped.
I have tossed around several ideas for locations for permanent mounting of the lights, from simply keeping them on the el-cheapo push/light bar, a tube frame with plastic visor on the "A" pillars to getting a Rally tops hard top front section and mounting the lights to that. I have finally decided on a tube frame/bar attached to the stock Targa bar. I have a handfull of 1" schedule 40 and 80 REW pipes (1.3"od) and some 1/8" plate to create the mount.
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Nice lights 8)
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I look forward to seeing the beam patterns of the 40W spot LEDs. - I've always been curious as to how well they focus.
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I rearranged the lighting, I cut a 24" long piece of 1x1 1/8" wall aluminum. I then painted it black, mounted it to the existing light tabs on the push bar from the bottom and then mounted the LED bar to that, then I mounted the 40w modules above that from the top of the push bar, I will trim those shorter and use cap nuts.
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1351.jpg)
I only have one of the spot modules electrically connected when I had to pickup to deal with family crap, hopefully I can get them finished up tomorrow before dinner and get some pics up of the spot modules.
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That's some serious candle power!
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Very sharp!
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Swanson,
I got the "You'll Have to do something about those "Red FD Lights" on your brush Guard" while on a pipeline job in Nebraska
by a City Cop in Lincoln. I run Fire Fighter Plates, Too !
Typical Fishing Trip, 'cause he asked if I'd Been Drinking Today? .....NO SIR; NOT YET........
So, I dumped the change out of the "Party Fund/Toll Change" Bag, Then the Bag for the GPS Unit,
And Johnny on The Spot, Covered each with the 2 CROWN ROYAL BAGS,
I thought the little vein in his neck was about to hemorrhage,.... He just jumped in his squad & Left.
Lucky I wasn't wearing one of my favorite Fire Fighter Tee Shirts;
"REAL HEROES..... DON'T WRITE PARKING TICKETS !!"
Later that same day he seen me down at the "South Fire House" showing the Secret Handshake to the Boys.
They told me "We'll Take Care of Him" They also said that with the FF Plates, I could run Emergency Lights.
I just left the CROWN bags the whole job.
CAPT
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LOL,,,,yep I have already been hassled by a OFFDUTY state trooper, And offroad on a logging trail no less, LOL
I made a quicky cover for the light bar from some scrap black vinyl, a piece of pegboard, a 2 nylon straps with fastec buckles and Marine grade GOOP.
and you are correct, real heros dont raise revenue for the state!
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Nice set up, but have to watch out that you don't break them being down that low, very $$$$$ replacement. roof is better.
I seen a LED light bar like that at one of the companies that I deliver to, they make big water trucks for construction sights... only this one was 36" would make a great roof mounted off road light, will have to ask were they got it & $$
Will post info if I can find out.
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Hanma makes a 30" and 40" bar as well. I have seen a 40" bar put on a sidekick, it works fantastic. If I had a hardtop I would put them up high, but until then, they are on the el-cheapo push bar. I have a cover made up for the lightbar and will make up two simple vinyl "bags" for the spot modules.
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OK, I got a chance to go out and take some pics,
Low beam
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1352.jpg)
High beam
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1353.jpg)
Spots
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1355.jpg)
Flood
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1354.jpg)
All of them together, retina scorch!
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1356.jpg)
Everything compliments each other nicely opening up different dark areas and straight out in front
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Thanks man - I was just getting ready to rag on you for not posting pics.
I'm planning a trip to Florida in May and wanted to pickup some lights for my Mitsubishi whilst there (the stock lights are pitiful), and I wanted to decide if I should go with halogen or LEDs - I'll stick with the halogens, I want "further" reach which those spots are not giving you.
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The spots easily double the range that those little distance marker signs are illuminated, there just wasnt anything much past that last marker to see but air. And there is alot of light put down on the road. For street/road driving, the modules work rather well as driving lights.
The width that the floods illuminate just isnt represented well in the pictures, and I know you wouldnt want those, they really are for off road only.
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Gotcha - thanks for clearing that up.