ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Mike71 on April 06, 2004, 12:06:33 PM
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my tracker 8v has like 85k miles...should i switch to synth oil?? or stay with the reg stuff?
also i was reading something about switching to synth in the rear diff?? anyone have any more info on that?
also since my car has 85k miles what if anyhting should i do to the tranny/transfer case oils?? i have a 5spd
any info on that would be great since i know next to nothing if not nothing about most of those..i know how to change my own oil thats about it =)
i also know how to get off a pesky filter with a screw driver =) lol
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I run Mobil 1 5W30 (full synthetic). I have found that it makes my engine run smoother, quieter and cooler. I changed to Mobil 1 around 80000 miles. I've been using it ever since.
I changed the oils in my diffs and t-case about a year ago. Used standard Castol Gear Oil.
I have an AT and had that changed a few years ago. I'll probably do it again this winter or next summer. Used regular Dexron III AT fluid, although next time I want to switch to a full synthetic fluid. Same will go for the diffs/t-case.
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now i know what kinda fluid is in an AT trans..but whats in a MT..is it the same...also wheres the dip stick in my car for the MT :o yah yah i know i should know that lol
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Mobil 1 for me since about 4K on the clock. Runs like a champ.
Or a monkey with its ass on fire. Depends on how good the gas is that day. ;D
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now i know what kinda fluid is in an AT trans..but whats in a MT..is it the same...also wheres the dip stick in my car for the MT  :o yah yah i know i should know that lol
DO NOT USE AT FLUID IN A MANUAL TRANSMISSION. It's different stuff. I believe that MT fluid is more or less all the same, so just pick a reputable brand and use it.
I don't know if a MT Track/Kick has the same layout as an AT one...but the dipstick for the AT is right beside the distributor cap, just to the left of it looking straight ahead from the front to the back.
(I WANT MY DIGITAL CAMERA ALREADY!!)
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lol i have a digi cam..but no where to post pics :(
ill look for the dipstick tommorow..i want to make sure i keep up on these things now that i am keeping the car
this is my first car...and my rents dont help me with it at all..so it really is all mine ;D
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My suggestions:
Oil - I have used Valvoline Max Life 10W-30 with a new filter at 3K mile intervals for a couple of years now. I'm satisfied, especially since the oil cured a slow leak or two on the engine.
Automatic transmission fluid - New filter and Dexron III every two years or so.
Manual transmission, t-case, differentials - Name brand gear lube 75W-90 or 80W-90. Using expensive synthetic in the t-case and transmission will make for easier shifting in cold weather, assuming it gets cold where you are.
Paw-paw Don, y'all
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I have seen many posts about this over the past year and I dont get the spend twice as much on oil thing. I have 3 Zuks all get the cheap stuff at what ever quick lube I happen to stop at, and inbetween the 4-5000 miles I usually wait to change it again, it gets the cheep stuff from the gas station.
The result:
89 Kick Purchased with 60,000 miles, now has over 200,000 miles and still running strong (never rebuilt)
97 Tracker Purchased with 90,000 miles, Drove it to 130,000 miles and now it a parts truck for the 89 and motor is still running great.(never rebuilt)
98 X-90  Bought with around 60,000 miles, now has 120,000 still running great (my 1000 miles a week commute vehicle)(never rebuilt)
Usually I believe in the "you get what you pay for" and I know there have been test out there to "Proove" the synthetics are better, but I'm sticking with the cheep stuff.
Zig
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Regular oils- Guess what ? they're are only 5 or 6 big oil ccompanies......now look at all the brand names. All that oil comed from the same people/places. The only big difference from the big'uns is what they add. I'd suggest staying away from the ones with a hi parrafin content. Wax will plug up anything. Other than that....cheep-0 oil-o fer me!
Synthetics- ain't got a clue. Never used any. I worked on circle track race cars for 10 years and never saw an oil related engine problem using regular oil.
Matt
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hi parrafin content.
Matt
What's that :-/ (parrafin) An additive to the oil ???
Zig
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I'd stay with the dino-oil at this point. Use the viscosity the owner's manual recommends (mine is 5w-30) and change it every 3-4 thousand miles.
I thought I had read that dino-gear oil should be used in the diffs, but synthetic is OK or even good for the trans & transfer case.
Your MT should have a drain/fill plug like the t-case and diffs.
FWIW, if your '89 has drain & fill plugs on the diffs like my '90, you may want to make sure you can get the fill plug loose before you remove the drain plug. I didn't and of course I couldn't get the fill plug off so I had to fill it from the drain plug; that was fun ::)
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Having worked in parts stores and shops most my life, Here are my recomendations. If you take care of your rig, dont drive to hard,and change the oil every2-3 k regular oil will work great. Now knowing zooki guys I know we all drive hard. In a motor with low miles(under60k) I would use full synthetic. You can switch to synthetic before that but I wouldnt recomend to after. Synthetic oil can find its way through smaller gaps than regular oil, so it may start leaking. It also offers much better protection, and less breakdown. For engines with around 80k + i really like the extended life stuff. Like the maxlife. It will help stop oil leaks and burning. For the transmissions I use full synthetic again. It makes the tranny's shift smoother, run cooler and quieter. I also use it for the t-case and differentials. Now if you have a rig that makes alot of drivetrain noise or has alot of miles try lucas oil stabilizer in the tranny,t-case,and diffs. Just use it straight out of the bottle. That stuff is amazing. I also like to use the lucas in diffs with lockers as it seems to help with the noise and random snapping. Any how all this info is just my experience and opinion. beleive me I have tried most of them.
Oh and one more thing I forgot. If you use Penzoil, dont use anything but Penzoil. The parafin base does'nt mix very well with petroluem base oils. That's how you get build up. Its not a bad oil,just dont mix it.
And one other thing about synthetics. Dont mix them with regular oil. All your doing is wasting it. It doesnt offer you anymore protection when it mixxed.
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Now on a fresh motor how long do you wait to change the oil and how long do you wait before puutin the synthetic in there? iheard at least a 1000 to make sure all the bearings have seated?but i am not quite sure :-/
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Thank you I did forget that part. I cant remember exactly how long but you definatley want to wait a bit.
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Use whatever oil you want to. Synthetics are good and actually required in some cars, but if you change regularly, regular old oil will do fine for our vehicles. Most manufacturers say you can use synthetics, but probably for warranty reasons they say not to extend the oil change intervals.
The manual transmission won't have a dipstick. You usually check the lube level by taking off the filler plug and sticking your finger in. If you can feel lube, you're OK. But since you're down there, why don't you go ahead and drain and refill? A lot of people like synthetics for the transmission, transfer case and differentials. Check your manual to see what weight is recommended. As noted, do not use automatic transmission fluid unless it is recommended (as it is in a few rare cases).
While you're at it, replace the brake fluid. Very few people do that, but most manufacturers recommend it at about 2 year intervals. If you have never drained old brake fluid out, it usually looks like used motor oil - not a good thing.
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what do people mean when they say change their fluid. do they mean just emptying the trans or actuly flushing the trans? we have flushed a few tarnnys and they shift soo much better after.
stu
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Use whatever oil you want to. Synthetics are good and actually required in some cars, but if you change regularly, regular old oil will do fine for our vehicles. Most manufacturers say you can use synthetics, but probably for warranty reasons they say not to extend the oil change intervals.
The manual transmission won't have a dipstick. You usually check the lube level by taking off the filler plug and sticking your finger in. If you can feel lube, you're OK. But since you're down there, why don't you go ahead and drain and refill? A lot of people like synthetics for the transmission, transfer case and differentials. Check your manual to see what weight is recommended. As noted, do not use automatic transmission fluid unless it is recommended (as it is in a few rare cases).
While you're at it, replace the brake fluid. Very few people do that, but most manufacturers recommend it at about 2 year intervals. If you have never drained old brake fluid out, it usually looks like used motor oil - not a good thing.
ok so i want to change my tranny and transfer case fuilds..ill start there since they probably havent been changed in 80k miles
what do i have to buy? like does anyone have a list? how many quarts of such and such u know..
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I'm far from home right now, so I don't have access to my manuals. I'm sure someone can check. Do you have the owner's manual? I can't remember whether it has things like transmission lube weights. But if not, I think it's a good idea to get a repair manual (like Haynes) from your local car parts place.
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i have the manuel the FSM..not sure if i have the one that came with the car though
but the FSM will tell me??
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Mhn3773, the FSM should tell you the right weights for the transmission, diffs etc. If not, repost on Friday (so the post will be near the top) and that might remind me to check my manual when I get home. I'm 120 miles from my manual. Or - if anyone else here has a manual - maybe someone else can check it right now.
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I use MaxLife in everything!
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what do people mean when they say change their fluid.  do they mean just emptying the trans or actuly flushing the trans?  we have flushed a few tarnnys and they shift soo much better after.
stu
I've had two vehicles "flushed". The only real downside to that is that they don't change the filter, but I haven't had any problems with those two trannys (knock wood). Of course they were both done with less than 50k miles on the trans.
I just "changed" the fluid in my Tracker by dropping the pan (emptys about 2 quarts of the 5), changing the filter, installing a plug in the pan, putting the pan back on, topping the fluid off, drain 2 more quarts out via the new plug, refill, run, drain 2, refill, run, etc. for about 8 quarts worth. I figure that got a very high percentage of the old stuff out.
I had thought about pulling the cooling lines, running the engine to let the trans pump dump the old stuff while putting in new, but, maybe next time.
FYI, when I originally changed the filter and the two quarts (the trans had about 140k miles on it probably with nothing ever done), it started giving me problems (stuck in gear) ::) , but I'm happy to say that after the "fluid change", it's back to normal (knock wood again) ;D
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well my tracker isnt really a driveway queen =) it was wheeled in stock form since it had like 100miles on the odo..then when i got it i didnt like it much so i ran over cones and curbs..not to mention the 6k clutch dumps :o
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About JerryP's post, I've done the two-quart-at-a-time thing several times. It seems that doing this on an old transmission with a lot of built up stuff inside is asking for the new fluid, with its fresh additives, to break something loose and let it clot in the cooler lines. For this reason, it seems a good idea to flush the cooler and the lines when the fluid is changed. If you can suck the old fluid out of the torque converter through the cooler lines and pull it through the cooler using a mechanic's hand pump, it will remove most of what remains in the transmission after dropping the pan.
Whatever you do, DO NOT use an additive in the transmission that is supposed to swell worn seals. It can cause some very expensive damage by swelling seals that don't need to be swollen. If it leaks, fix it right.
Paw-paw Don, y'all
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