ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: randy mohawk on September 16, 2012, 06:00:30 PM
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I HAD PUT IN THE 4.16 TRANSFER CASE HOPEING THAT IT WOULD GIVE ME BETTER PERFORMANCE WITH 32" TIRES. BUT THE TRANSFER CASE SOUNDS LIKE IT WON'T LET ME GET UP TO SPEED WHEN ROLLING AT 45MPH AND UP. SHOULD I START THINKING ABOUT GET THE STOCK RING AND PINION CHANGED TO GIVE THE T-CASE A BRAKE( IT SOUNDS LIKE NOISY LIFTERS WHEN I STEP ON THE GAS TO BRING UP TO HWY SPEED, BUT GETS QUITE WHEN I LET OFF PEDDEL AND BACK OFF A BIT...
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I would take the transfer case apart first and fix whats wrong with it!
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Yes, it sounds like the t-case has some issues. Could be bad u-joints as well.
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there are no problems with my u-joints alls good, and my transfer case is only 2 years old with very little miles on it. it was rebuilt by rocky road . i guess a transmission shop would know how to repair it?
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Things to check:
1. Check the u-joints on the rear driveshaft (upper and lower) and the u-joints on the intermediate shaft (NOT the front driveshaft). There should be no play in any direction.
2. Check all 3 transfer case mounts, and make sure they are not torn, or damaged in any way.
3. Check both transfer case mounting arms to make sure they are not bent, twisted, etc.
4. Check to make sure both front hubs are unlocked and the transfer case is not locked into 4wd (should be able to rotate the front driveshaft by hand)
5. Do you still have your old tcase? If so, swap it in and see if the noise goes away...if it does, then you know that the tcase is the source of the noise.
You need to sort out what is making the noise before you go after the gears in the axles. Bent/damaged tcase mounting arms and/or rubber mounts are very common after installing low gears in the tcase. It takes very little misalignment to cause a vibration in the driveshafts. I have also seen hubs fail to unlock, spinning the front driveshaft and causing a loud vibration/noise.
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I CHECKED ALL U-JOINTS, T-CASE MOUNTS ,MOUNTING ARMS AND NO ISSUSES THERE . I TOOK OFF FRONT DRIVE SHAFT AND TOOK A SPIN AND NO PROBLEM ON ROAD , I PUT IT IN LOW 2 WHEEL DRIVE ,AND NO PROBLEM. THAN I PUT THE SHAFT BACK ON AND IT STARTED AGAIN WITH NOISE. YOU SAY IN NUTRAL I SHOULD BE ABLE TO TURN DRIVE SHAFT UP FRONT .
IS THAT JACKED UP ? I HAVE LOCK RIGHT LOCKERS UP FRONT AND BACK.
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Just curious... did the case swap do you pretty good with the 32's? ... noticeable difference I mean?
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THE 4.16 TRANFERCASE DID REAL GOOD WHEN I TOOK OFF THE FRONT SHAFT. IT GOT UP TO SPEED WITHOUT ANY PROBLEM. AND YES WITH 32" BAJA CLAWS. I'M NOT THAT SURE ABOUT TAKING THE T-CASE APART AND SHIPPING IT BACK TO ROCKY ROAD IS OUT OF THE QUESTION , WOULD A TRANSMISION PLACE DO?
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I CHECKED ALL U-JOINTS, T-CASE MOUNTS ,MOUNTING ARMS AND NO ISSUSES THERE . I TOOK OFF FRONT DRIVE SHAFT AND TOOK A SPIN AND NO PROBLEM ON ROAD , I PUT IT IN LOW 2 WHEEL DRIVE ,AND NO PROBLEM. THAN I PUT THE SHAFT BACK ON AND IT STARTED AGAIN WITH NOISE. YOU SAY IN NUTRAL I SHOULD BE ABLE TO TURN DRIVE SHAFT UP FRONT .
IS THAT JACKED UP ? I HAVE LOCK RIGHT LOCKERS UP FRONT AND BACK.
Is your caps lock key broke? If not, turn the damn caps lock off.
You won't be able to turn the front driveshaft when the tcase is in neutral (to access neutral in the tcase, you have to shift into 4x4 first, so the input and output shafts are all locked together, even though the tcase is in neutral). The only time you should be able to turn the front driveshaft by hand is when the tcase is in 2wd high....and the front hubs have to be unlocked (in the "free" position). None of this makes any difference if you have lockers or not.
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I CHECKED ALL U-JOINTS, T-CASE MOUNTS ,MOUNTING ARMS AND NO ISSUSES THERE . I TOOK OFF FRONT DRIVE SHAFT AND TOOK A SPIN AND NO PROBLEM ON ROAD , I PUT IT IN LOW 2 WHEEL DRIVE ,AND NO PROBLEM. THAN I PUT THE SHAFT BACK ON AND IT STARTED AGAIN WITH NOISE. YOU SAY IN NUTRAL I SHOULD BE ABLE TO TURN DRIVE SHAFT UP FRONT .
IS THAT JACKED UP ? I HAVE LOCK RIGHT LOCKERS UP FRONT AND BACK.
Is your caps lock key broke? If not, turn the damn caps lock off.
:laugh:
I was saying that you should be able to turn the front driveshaft by hand with the front hubs unlocked, transfer case in 2wd high, and the transmission in neutral.
The fact that the sound disappeared when you removed the front driveshaft suggests that you don't have a problem with the transfer case. Maybe one of your hubs isn't unlocking.
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Also, it takes very little for the mounting arms to twist; you might not be able to see it. Minor misalignment of the intermediate shaft causes a pretty significant vibration.
My best guess is that nothing is wrong with your transfer case...I've seen very few of them with issues. It is usually a bad u-joint, improper driveshaft geometry, bent transfer case arms, or bad transfer case mounts.
And, your question about whether or not a transmission shop can handle your transfer case is too vague for anybody to answer here. The samurai transfer case isn't too complicated as far as gearboxes go, but it is kind of unique in that it has both high and low range reduction. Who knows what you'll get if you take it into a random transmission shop.
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HI , I CHECKED ALL T-CASE MOUNTS, ARMS, BUSHINGS , U-JOINTS, DRIVESHAFTS, AND THERE ARE NO ISSUES. I INSTALLED A HEAVY DUTY T-CASE CRADDLE AND NEW RUBBER MOUNTS SO THATS ALL GOOD. I PUT TRANS IN 2ND GEAR , T-CASE IN 2 HIGH AND WAS ABLE TO TURN FRONT DRIVE SHAFT WITHOUT ANY PROBLEMS. SO DO YOU THINK THAT IT'S JUST MAY BE THE HUB LOCKS THAT ARE NO GOOD ? I DO REMEMBER WHEN I REBUILT FRONT AXEL( I PUT NEW POWERTRAC LOCKERS, AND BEARINGS,AND SEALS. THAT ONE HUB LOCKER WAS KINDA DIFFERENT AND THE SPRING DIDN'T FEEL THE SAME BUT INSTALLED ANYWAYS THINKING IT WOULD BE FINE.THEY LOCKUP GOOD BUT MAYBE DON'T UNLOCK COMPLETLY AND THATS THE NOISE I HEAR ?
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how much lift do you have and did you clearance the yokes on your drive lines so they do not bind or hit each other when the diffs drop? it is kinda rare but you can break the end off of your front out put shaft (transfer case front flange) where the needle bearing goes on it.
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I have the 5" LIFT KIT FROM CALMINI AND IT FEELS FINE .
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what I was asking was did you take the u joints out and grind some mettle off of the yokes for clearance?
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NO I DIDN'T GRIND ANYTHING FOR CLEARANCE. HOW MUCH DO I GRIND? ALSO IF FRONT HUB LOCKS DIDN'T COMPLEATLY UNLOCK WOULD IT BE ENGAGEING FRONT END IN 2HI AND BE MAKING THIS NOISE?
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yes it can but you can check that by putting your rig in two wheel drive and locking the right hub and turn the front drive shaft by hand and then unlocking it and locking the left hub and see if there is a difference while turning the shaft.
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OK I LOCKED AND UNLOCKED FRONT HUBS AS YOU SAID AND THEY SOUND AND WORK FINE.ALSO NO CHAFFING WHEN I TURN SHAFT AND U=JOINTS LOOK GOOD AND WORK FINE.WHAT NEXT?
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is there any way you could zip tie the front shaft to keep it from turning and drive it in two wheel drive? the only way the front shaft would turn in two wheel drive is if the transfer case is too tight inside or you have too thick of gear oil in it.
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Hi , well I took off my locking hubs and low and behold this was my problem all the while. the left side was fine and worked well but the right locked and unlocked as it should ,but the spring didn't disengage completely. and this was the noise I heard in high 2nd gear. Even when I jacked up front end and turned wheel by hand in the locked and unlocked position ,it seemed fine.So i pulled them and installed new premeium WARN lockers and all is well ... except the round sir clip that should go back on won't go because splin shaft is shorter with new hubs . and don't stick out enough to put them back on . Is this O K to run without them?
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I have heard of several people having the same issue and leaving them out with no problems. so I would say just leave them out!