ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Performance / Modify => Topic started by: chadstichter on October 03, 2012, 09:06:47 PM
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i want to build some dif drop brackets but im not sure how the hole dif gets lowerd. it looks like it just rolls the diff forward i just dont see how it drops completely if you have any pictures post them. thanks
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When I built my diff drop brackets I also modified the rear mount from the diff housing to the cross member to lower it as well. I basicly set up the mount so it bolts directly to the crossmember by removing some of the rubber and repositioning it. This might also be a good time to fab up a strap for the output side of the diff to keep it from twisting. Helps keep that flimsy front housing alive.
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BRD HTNR broke a set of extended diff mounts, so he just cut the frame side of the mounts off and lowered them instead. That way he can use the stock diff mounts.
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okay thanks guys
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Some pics for what you end up doing to build these, or from what others have already done would be great! I would like to build some too, but am not really sure where to start.
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BRD HTNR broke a set of extended diff mounts, so he just cut the frame side of the mounts off and lowered them instead. That way he can use the stock diff mounts.
Did he cut and weld the stock mounts?
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BRD HTNR broke a set of extended diff mounts, so he just cut the frame side of the mounts off and lowered them instead. That way he can use the stock diff mounts.
Did he cut and weld the stock mounts?
Originally yea, That is why he switched to just cutting off the stock hangers and moving them instead.
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That's one way to do it. I just used my CAD program, ( cardboard aided design ) and made mine out of 1/4" plate.
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bentparts, that is the way to do it. They do'nt break (and if they bend, that can be beat straight again). Kreator also sells some extended mounts (I think), so does AE. Originally I tried extending the cast mount, I thought using stainless rod and sandwiching it with light flat stock would work. Broke on first real pull (ruined day of wheeling). So then I made my steel front housing out of a rear Sami housing and went back to stock drop brackets, only I raised the mounting position (lowering the diff). What Kris is referring to is with the new motor I had to move diff mount back 1/2" on right side for alternator clearance, then I moved the diff mount position forward. I also welded a tab onto the Diff input housing of a Sami diff. so I can use a stock rear mount also.
When you make a modification, it usually requires two more modifications to improve the result.
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I am running the AE 4.5" lift, it also requires a modified rear mount as well, otherwise you will rotate the housing down and back, reducing clearance at the rear of the fender well.
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1212.jpg)
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1209.jpg)
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1210.jpg)