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ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: RJkick on November 05, 2012, 11:02:07 AM
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I was trying to change a flat and the lug nut and stud broke off together. '92 4dr sidekick
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Front or rear? Usually if it's a rear on a Trackick anyway, the studs are pressed into the rear axle flange. To do it right you'll need to pull the rear axle out and press the broken one out then press the new one in. On the front you should pull the hub off, press the broken one out then press the new one in. Reassemble everything when finished. If you don't have a press, Ive seen some guys do it with a BFH and some kind of block to support the hub or axle. If you aren't comfortable with any of that take it to a shop.
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It's the rear driver's side
Thanks
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Well, if you've ever taken an axle out it's not too bad. Wheel, drum, brakes and brake backing plate have to come off first. Then a slide hammer and some form of adapter ( I made my first one out of a piece of plate steel ) attached to a couple of the studs securely with the lug nuts and bang away until the axle comes out. It may drip a bit of diff fluid, nothing to worry about. Then the press out/press in, and put it all back together. A shop is really gonna get you for that kind of job, at least $100 is my guess, mostly because of the time involved. I mean what's a stud cost, 90 cents ? But hey, you still have 4 left right? A tip for the future: I always use nickle anti seize compound on my lugs, and pretty much every other bolt, nut and fastener I've ever removed on my rig. Keeps that pesky corrosion from sticking up things. ;)
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The rear wheel studs on a 92 should be pressed into the drum. So you don't need to pull the axleshaft. Just remove the brake drum, knock the broken stud out, using a hammer and punch and hammer the new stud in.
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I'm going to give it a shot this weekend
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The rear wheel studs on a 92 should be pressed into the drum. So you don't need to pull the axleshaft. Just remove the brake drum, knock the broken stud out, using a hammer and punch and hammer the new stud in.
X2 All you need is a BFH and a new stud.
I belive there are different PN's for the front and rear but I'm not sure there's a significant difference.
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The rear wheel studs on a 92 should be pressed into the drum. So you don't need to pull the axleshaft. Just remove the brake drum, knock the broken stud out, using a hammer and punch and hammer the new stud in.
X2 All you need is a BFH and a new stud.
I belive there are different PN's for the front and rear but I'm not sure there's a significant difference.
Length is the only difference, from what I remember. The fronts are a little longer.
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Did the stud mounting change on later models or maybe I was thinking of how the drum mounts to the axle?
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Did the stud mounting change on later models or maybe I was thinking of how the drum mounts to the axle?
Yeah, it did. On the later trackicks the axles have the "typical" flange on the end of the axleshaft, with the lug studs pressed into the flange and the drum just has holes in it and it slides over the studs in the axleshaft flange.
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Thanks Sky, I've only worked on my 95 to any real extent. Sorry for the bad advise RJ, feel free to deduct a point from me :laugh:
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I'm going to give it a shot this weekend
Turns out it was pretty easy. Removed the tire then the drum nuts and a tap on the drum, with the parking brake released, and then hammer the old stud out and put the new stud in - couple taps and voila
While I was changing them I changed the drum nuts as well - previous owner had 2 19mm and 2 17 mm nuts and lock washer and then 1 without and 1 with a nylon nut
Previous owners what are they thinking sometimes
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[quote author=bentparts link=topic=36792.msg287825#msg287825 date=1352159402A tip for the future: I always use nickle anti seize compound on my lugs, and pretty much every other bolt, nut and fastener I've ever removed on my rig. Keeps that pesky corrosion from sticking up things. ;)
[/quote]
It is said to NEVER put anything on wheel studs .
(although I have to confess I have as well ;))
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I'll put wd40/PBblaster on them sometimes, if they start getting hard to thread the nuts on.
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I'll put wd40/PBblaster on them sometimes, if they start getting hard to thread the nuts on.
I had used the smallest bit of the silver anti-seize; no ill effects....but that's what 'THEY' say...?
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I helped my dad replace the front brakes on his early 2000's taurus last weekend and the studs were caked in the silver stuff. I asked him if he put it on there, he said the dealer did when he had it in for some other repairs. So if a dealer did it, it must be ok! ;)
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Rust is cheap thread locker...
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Rust is cheap thread locker...
and stud breaker.
I always use anti seize on lug studs. And get this, I only torque them to the recommended limit 80 ft lbs. I know it seems low compared to those air wrench jockeys at most tire shops, but why would they give a shit if your stuck on the side of the trail and can't get your lugs off because their too tight. I've seen some shops use max torque on an air gun putting as much as 200 lbs on a lug nut. Then I've also seen tire techs at Costco use a torque wrench! at factory settings ! Go figure. Anti Seize rules :laugh: Screw " them. "