ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Performance / Modify => Topic started by: bandit86 on May 01, 2016, 09:35:10 AM
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Can the front diff and rear third be directly switched over?
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They are interchangable, as in, will bolt right in.... but somewhere around early 95' and earlier models, the front diffs had 22 spine side gears. You would have to disassemble the diff and install the newer 26 spline side gears to run them with the newer 26 spline CV axles in the newer trucks.
As I recall some of the earlier models also had thinner inner axle shafts too. I ran across this fact when I was sourcing an inner axle for my 2002 Tracker so I could run an earlier model (96-98' year) differential with 5.12 gearing in my Tracker. It could be the thinner inner axle was a 22 spline inner axle. I don't recall now. It's been awhile and I have slept many times since then.
Earlier (pre-94?) rear diffs were 10 bolt ring gears as opposed to the newer 12 bolt ring gear diffs. The only real problem this would pose, I think, would be to just ensure you ordered the locker or ARB to fit the earlier diff if you decided to install one. The rear diffs were already 26 splined for the axles.
Some one can (and hopefully will) jump in here if I miss stated a fact on this.
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nope nprecon you got it right but if you are putting banjo or gear swap into new 2nd gen and trying to get rid of sotf then a sport diff would be best fit
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I once blew my front diff while backing out a deep hole, had 33. Would the steel diff bolt right in? Then I might not worry so much and might even spring for a locker
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yes they would bolt in but they are in GV 99-04 with 5-spd
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I once blew my front diff while backing out a deep hole, had 33. Would the steel diff bolt right in? Then I might not worry so much and might even spring for a locker
Did you have the input end of your diff strapped down (supported) to the frame cross member when you broke it?
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Only the driver's side of the front diff is secured to the cross member, to control the clock-wise torquing of the diff while moving forward. However, when you get on it hard while in reverse, especially with larger tires or tires with lots of tread bite, the diff assembly wants to torque counter-clockwise which can crack the diff. Fabricating and installing the strap over the diff pinion bearing area, then secured to the cross member, greatly reduces this excessive counter-clockwise torquing and helps prevent cracking the diff housing. However, given enough pressure, anything can break.
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It was stock. The area around the pinion just came loose. This one I may have to reinforce
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Bandit86. Front diff's and rear thirds can not be switched directly in any years of trackers. The rear diff's are larger than the front, and won't fit the housing. A samurai front or rear third member will fit in the Tracker front diff housing, and is cast iron, but they do not have a mount for the rear, also have an oil passage that would ride on the frame. Those items can be modified. Or build your steel diff out of a Samurai housing.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/SROFgcNxdZI/AAAAAAAACZc/NRkRG_poxvg/s512/CIMG3119.JPG)
A better way would be to go with the GV steel front third. http://www2.zukiworld.com/feature_sidekickdrivetrainimprovements/ (http://www2.zukiworld.com/feature_sidekickdrivetrainimprovements/) or http://www2.zukiworld.com/feature_frontendupgradeswithhagen/ (http://www2.zukiworld.com/feature_frontendupgradeswithhagen/)
When you eliminate one weak link, the next weak link will be the next failure point. The aluminum diff hanger mounts are pretty strong, but they are too short and will break. Longer steel mounts will save your CV's and won't break, but can rip out of aluminum housings with hard use.