ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Performance / Modify => Topic started by: RideorDie on June 08, 2016, 08:16:08 PM
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Alright guys I have a 1987 Suzuki Samurai with the SPOA lift done on it. It also has a three inch body lift. And everyone knows you don't want a body lift if your going to be doing any crawling. My question is if I take the three inch body lift off what is the best way to get my three inches back. I kind of need to have that extra lift because I run a decent size tire and I want the clearance.
Thank You
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What size tire are you running? ???
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Lift spring and a spring over
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Im running 33in BFG MK2 mudders and with the lift spring is that just an add a leaf
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You should be able to clear the 33in BFG MK2 tires with just a SPOA. The front axle will need to be moved forward 1" (redrill axle spring pad or use an adapter spring plate), and the inner fender seams will need to be hammered flat.
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I think I would rather just buy a lift instead of doing all of that work.
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Huh? It is hardly any work. ???
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Yea after reading the post a little closer it really doesnt seem like a whole lot of work. Could I move them forward anymore than that and then cut the fenders. I really dislike how short the wheelbase is on my sammy.
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Just so you are informed. "Every modification begets another modification."
And the answer to your last questions is Yes, but not with those springs in that manner.
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Actually, getting a SPring Over Axle right IS a lot of work.
For your consideration ...
The basics ...
a) either purchasing or fabricating new perches and fitting them to the axles, this may involve welding - you're going to have to compromise between optimizing the caster angle - or - optimizing the pinion angle. You can choose to have them both optimized if you're prepared to cut the knuckles off and re-weld them. Insufficient caster angle is one of the leading triggers for "wobble of death", incorrect pinion angle causes vibration.
b) depending on how your perches were done, you may need to fabricate new shock mounts, this will probably involve welding, and find appropriate shocks.
No - you're not done yet, there's still the stuff that no one mentions up front ...
c) all the little bits & pieces - drive shaft spacers (because the drive shafts are now too short), longer brake hoses, etc., etc., etc..
d) finding a way to deal with axle wrap, because the springs are too soft to control the axle in an SPOA configuration
e) finding a way to deal with bump steer SAFELY, so you're looking for some sort of "high steer" kit, preferably one that will retain the correct ackerman geometry (does such an animal even exist?) and, no, a Z-link is not a remedy.