ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: trackerER on February 15, 2017, 07:44:22 PM
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Hi guys,
I plan to swap a 2.3 engine (J23) from an '04 Aerio (A/T) into my '98 Tracker (5spd). Both cars run and drive. I already did some research and read through some posts including ebewley's 2.3 swap into Sidekick Sport (great write-up and videos BTW), jstr's 2.3 swap into a '93 and a more recent one by Perryd but he swaps from A/T to A/T so I'm guessing our swaps will be different. Besides, I didn't want to hijack his post.
After my research I had some encouraging and not so encouraging findings.
Encouraging: J23 bolts up to my 5 spd tranny w/out an adapter plate and TT offers engine mounts. Phew! As I have no metal fabrication tools >:(
Not so encouraging: I'll need some parts off of a J18 or J20 engine including; exhaust manifold (cast iron), coolant tube (from the head to the radiator), passenger side engine hoist eye-lit (with the T-tube welded), oil pan and oil pick up tube. I was on the phone with Dillon at TT and he has been great help. I already located these parts.
I still have a few questions though.
1) Do I need any other parts off of J18 or J20. I can get parts off of a '99 Tracker with a 2.0 and A/T located at a local salvage yard.
2) Is my flywheel going to work? Would a J18-J20 flywheel work?
3) Is my radiator going to work? If not, would J23 radiator fit in my Tracker? If not, what radiator options do I have?
4) Do I need an ECU from a 5spd Aerio (my donor has an A/T)? In Matt Verley's how to video, I noticed that he swapped a J23 from an Aerio with A/T to a Sidekick with 5spd. He did not mention it not working. I'm not clear if he used J18 ECU or J23 ECU. In my case, I'll have to use the J23 ECU.
5) Are there any write ups/posts that would help me figure out wiring?
6) Anything else I should get/read before I start the swap?
Thanks.
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Hi guys,
I plan to swap a 2.3 engine (J23) from an '04 Aerio (A/T) into my '98 Tracker (5spd). Both cars run and drive. I already did some research and read through some posts including ebewley's 2.3 swap into Sidekick Sport (great write-up and videos BTW), jstr's 2.3 swap into a '93 and a more recent one by Perryd but he swaps from A/T to A/T so I'm guessing our swaps will be different. Besides, I didn't want to hijack his post.
After my research I had some encouraging and not so encouraging findings.
Encouraging: J23 bolts up to my 5 spd tranny w/out an adapter plate and TT offers engine mounts. Phew! As I have no metal fabrication tools >:(
Not so encouraging: I'll need some parts off of a J18 or J20 engine including; exhaust manifold (cast iron), coolant tube (from the head to the radiator), passenger side engine hoist eye-lit (with the T-tube welded), oil pan and oil pick up tube. I was on the phone with Dillon at TT and he has been great help. I already located these parts.
I still have a few questions though.
1) Do I need any other parts off of J18 or J20. I can get parts off of a '99 Tracker with a 2.0 and A/T located at a local salvage yard.
2) Is my flywheel going to work? Would a J18-J20 flywheel work?
3) Is my radiator going to work? If not, would J23 radiator fit in my Tracker? If not, what radiator options do I have?
4) Do I need an ECU from a 5spd Aerio (my donor has an A/T)? In Matt Verley's how to video, I noticed that he swapped a J23 from an Aerio with A/T to a Sidekick with 5spd. He did not mention it not working. I'm not clear if he used J18 ECU or J23 ECU. In my case, I'll have to use the J23 ECU.
5) Are there any write ups/posts that would help me figure out wiring?
Thanks.
1) Do I need any other parts off of J18 or J20. I can get parts off of a '99 Tracker with a 2.0 and A/T located at a local salvage yard.
Wiring, depending on complete swap or integrate.
2) Is my flywheel going to work? Would a J18-J20 flywheel work?
We had our flywheel redrilled, but the J20 flywheel should work.
3) Is my radiator going to work? If not, would J23 radiator fit in my Tracker? If not, what radiator options do I have?
Your stock radiator will work, until you start using the included HP. Those extra ponies require more cooling than that small radiator can supply under heavy loads. I have used a Volvo radiator and several others also, I am presently using a Summit radiator that is same physical size as my 93 radiator, only 2 1/2" thick all aluminum cross flow.
4) Do I need an ECU from a 5spd Aerio (my donor has an A/T)? In Matt Verley's how to video, I noticed that he swapped a J23 from an Aerio with A/T to a Sidekick with 5spd. He did not mention it not working. I'm not clear if he used J18 ECU or J23 ECU. In my case, I'll have to use the J23 ECU.
It would be best to have a manual ECU if you are going to run a manual. The big problem with having an automatic ECU and running a manual is that the Automatic ECU is expecting communication with a TCM and throws a code if it doesn't have communication. This standing code will prevent other codes from alarming you to their presence because you already have an active alarm.
5) Are there any write ups/posts that would help me figure out wiring?
I do not know of any write ups that could prepare you for the time and thought that goes into figuring out a wiring change. Without having FSM's and the ability to read and understand wiring diagrams, I would suggest TT wiring conversion. It seems expensive, but they have good customer support and it will fit and work if you follow the directions.
My experience is that charts listing what points connect to what motor connection seems easier to understand later than notes.
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Thank you for your response BRD.
1) I'm not trying to make it look/feel all original but I'd like to have the engine running as it should w/out any codes etc. If I can have that using the 2.3 (A/T) harness, I'd like to do that as it would be cheaper. However, if using the 2.0 (5spd) harness makes the wiring less of a hassle, I'll go that route. Do you think I get away with using the 2.3 (A/T) harness?
2) So, I think you're saying I can have my '98 Tracker flywheel redrilled and it would work. I'll call the machine shop and find out how much they'd charge. If it's cheaper than getting a J18-20 flywheel, I'll do that.
3) Does the Volvo radiator require any fabrication etc. or does it bolt in? What radiator is that? If you could tell me the year/model, I can look up the part number at rockauto.com. What about the summit racing one, do you have a part number for that?
4) So, I WILL have CEL if I use the ECU of an A/T? I guess I'll be hunting for a 5spd ECU then.
5) I already have the '98 FSM, I'll definitely get the Aerio FSM too. I've rebuilt engines and trannies before but never done a wiring harness. I don't mind digging through the diagrams as long as there is light at the end of the tunnel :)
Thanks.
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We ran the 2.3l in the race car, Project Trouble. Lots of power available but we did have a constant Check Engine light due to the lack of a transmission. I believe you can swap to a 4-speed auto and run the stock A/T computer. Again, Trail Tough is the one that has more information on that.
Additional things you need from a 2.0L from another Tracker/Vitara:
Oil Pan
Oil Pickup
Rear Water Outlet - The stock one goes straight back, if you want to use it you have to poke a hole in your firewall and get rid of the heater. :D
Where are you located at? We have a flywheel that is already drilled sitting around not being used anymore that you could probably talk BRD HNTR out of.
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Thanks Drone,
I already got the oil pan, the oil pick up and the coolant pipe from the 2.0.
I'm in southern colorado.
As a side note, the complete aerio I was going to buy was sold while I was at the junk yard getting 2.0 parts. I still want to do this swap if I can find another aerio or a complete set up from a salvage yard.
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1) I'm not trying to make it look/feel all original but I'd like to have the engine running as it should w/out any codes etc. If I can have that using the 2.3 (A/T) harness, I'd like to do that as it would be cheaper. However, if using the 2.0 (5spd) harness makes the wiring less of a hassle, I'll go that route. Do you think I get away with using the 2.3 (A/T) harness?
Manual wiring harness & ECU to a Manual transmission. (As I do not know of anybody reflashing the ECU to allow it to run stand alone.)
2) So, I think you're saying I can have my '98 Tracker flywheel redrilled and it would work. I'll call the machine shop and find out how much they'd charge. If it's cheaper than getting a J18-20 flywheel, I'll do that.
Drone637 had the flywheel redrilled. "We have a flywheel that is already drilled sitting around not being used anymore that you could probably talk BRD HNTR out of."
3) Does the Volvo radiator require any fabrication etc. or does it bolt in? What radiator is that? If you could tell me the year/model, I can look up the part number at rockauto.com. What about the summit racing one, do you have a part number for that?
I took my radiator to the junk yard and told them I wanted a thicker radiator with the inlet tube in proper place for my 2.7L motor. The one I got was listed as a Volvo. I have gone to a much larger Aluminum radiator now. Get a GOOD electric fan for cooling. It is as important as the radiator, maybe more. These motors run hotter, so a bigger radiator with a poor fan will get hotter on the trails than a stock radiator with a good fan. Our race car with the stock radiator and the Aux Cooling fan (poor airflow) worked ok when running in the desert, until we slowed down (less airflow) and was pulling hard, then we had overheating issues. (So plan on bigger radiator and fan in the budget.)
4) So, I WILL have CEL if I use the ECU of an A/T? I guess I'll be hunting for a 5spd ECU then.
If you are running a manual transmission behind it. At least a Communication Error Code.
5) I already have the '98 FSM, I'll definitely get the Aerio FSM too. I've rebuilt engines and trannies before but never done a wiring harness. I don't mind digging through the diagrams as long as there is light at the end of the tunnel :)
Thanks.
If you are doing the wiring, you need to be able to see where the wires belong. I spend lots of time (to much) making sure wires are going to proper place. You can have TT convert a wire harness for you, and follow their directions for hookup. Custom wire harness's are not cheap and I have more time than money. (Their harness probably looks better also as they pare out the wires not needed and I don't strip the harness apart, just use what is needed. The motor is going from a lateral mounting to a longitudinal mount, so wires are either longer or shorter in most cases.
It appears that there is a lot interest in this swap, so keep an eye on those posts.
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Hi Brd Hntr,
So, what would it take to talk you out of the re-drilled flywheel? Would you be willing to sell it? If so, how much? I can pm you if that's a better way.
I'm getting the following from a 2007 Aerio with A/T:
Engine (including all the sensors), alternator, P/S, pump, A/C compressor and dash harness. Unfortunately, engine harness was cut off while removal. I'll get the 5spd ECU and engine harness separately. There are a few 5spd ECUs available nearby but none are from a 2007. Are these ECUs interchangeable between years 2004-2007.
I guess I'll have to do the same with the radiator. I take you do not remember the model/year (roughly) of the Volvo. What radiator do you have on now? I'd prefer to spend a few $ extra and do it once.
I'm still undecided on whether I should send have TT do the harness for me. I'll make a decision once i have the engine and the harness in front of me.
Thanks.
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The computer should be the same from 2004 and up since they all have the 2.3l. I think the only real major change is anti-lock brakes on 2006.
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Thanks. I just bought one.
I'll be swapping an engine with 122k miles on it. Do you guys recommend any maintenance while the engine is out? e.g. timing chain, oil pump, water pump etc.
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Hi Brd Hntr,
So, what would it take to talk you out of the re-drilled flywheel? Would you be willing to sell it? If so, how much? I can pm you if that's a better way.
I'm getting the following from a 2007 Aerio with A/T:
Engine (including all the sensors), alternator, P/S, pump, A/C compressor and dash harness. Unfortunately, engine harness was cut off while removal. I'll get the 5spd ECU and engine harness separately. There are a few 5spd ECUs available nearby but none are from a 2007. Are these ECUs interchangeable between years 2004-2007.
I guess I'll have to do the same with the radiator. I take you do not remember the model/year (roughly) of the Volvo. What radiator do you have on now? I'd prefer to spend a few $ extra and do it once.
I'm still undecided on whether I should send have TT do the harness for me. I'll make a decision once i have the engine and the harness in front of me.
Thanks.
I knew it was still in the garage, but have been busy over the weekend. I found it yesterday, redrilled flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch. Less than 1000 miles on the combination, we never did finish one of the big races. $90 + shipping.
I was just reading that the manual flywheel from the Aerio will work/fit in the 1.6L bellhousing.
My radiator is 22"w x 20"h x 2 1/2"d, and just barley fits. It has to squeeze behind the hood latch, and I bent the hood brace to keep it from hitting. Drone has a smaller one that looks to be a pretty good fit. Maybe a photo later in week, he is having mounting tabs put on it now.
Changing the timing chain & guides is easier on the bench, and if the chain breaks it will at least bend a couple valves. Less than $100 for peace of mind. Unless the pan is full of crud, oil pumps are not prone to routine failures. Water pumps are not as reliable and that is a judgment call, I know of a lot of vehicle over 200,000 miles still running on stock one, and I have changed out my share of leaking or noisy ones.
Wiring is a tough call. It can only require about 6 wires (not counting computer connection), which is bare bones stand alone operation. It will take you time to research which 6 wires you need, and then add the extra ones you want. If you are going to strip down the harness so it doesn't have extra wires in it, putting it back together so it runs properly around the motor all takes time. So it comes down to time or money (and slight peace of mind). I would say to figure out just what you want in way of instrumentation, oil light, charge indication, temperature gauge, OBD2 port, etc. and call TT and if they have those. Having spliced/integrated a few swapped motors, I think it is going to be faster next time, and it still takes a long time. If you have no idea of how to do it, have it done.
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With regards the water pump - if it's not leaking or noisy - just leave it alone.
On the J series engines the pump is on the side of the block, easy to reach when it's longitudinally mounted as it would be in a Tracker, no big tear down, no need to touch the timing, as you would on a G or H series engine.
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Brd Hntr,
Yes, $90+shipping sounds good. I assume it doesn't need to be re-surfaced and it's all put together. I don't have a clutch alignment tool. Please pm me with the details e.g. payment method, address etc.
I was talking to TT about the radiator. They said a J20 radiator would be fine. Do you agree? I still have to have some brackets made though. (Drone, if you're reading this, pictures of your set up would great help).
Yes, I think J23 flywheel would fit in G16 bell housing but the engine I'm getting is off of an A/T car. I think I'll replace the timing chains, the guides and the tensionors and leave the sprockets alone. I'll also do the oil pump just b/c I have to put J20 oil pan and pick tube in there anyways. What brand would you suggest? I'll stay away from cheap ebay kits. I heard OSK (made in Japan) is good. Any other good ones?
I'm still thinking about wiring. I have the FSMs for both Tracker and Aerio. I'll read through and see what I can do. I do want all of my gauges to work. After reading the diagrams, I'll decide if I can do it. If not, I'll send it to TT.
Fordem,
I think I'll wait on the water pump. If it's easily accessible, I can do it later.
What about seals? I know rear main seal on G16 is much easier to do on the bench. Any seals I should do while the J23 is out?
Thanks guys.
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Feel free to hijack anytime 8), I'm just glad we are getting lots of information out there! You'll be glad to grab the manual ecu and harness, I think I may go that direction if i ever do the swap even though I already have the auto harness.
My 1.6 is being a real bugger lately too with mysterious misfiring and stalling and it's pushing me closer and closer to pulling the trigger on this swap.
Good luck!
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J18/20/23 has two seals - front & rear crank (aka front & rear main, or timing cover & rear main) - it's always a good idea to do the rear whilst the engine and transmission are separate, and you might as well to do the front whilst you have the timing cover off.
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Perryd,
Thanks. I've been keeping an eye on your post too. Yeah, ECU and the harness were not the cheapest but I hope it'll save me lots of headache in the long run. I was/am also having power loss issues and after a compression test (~150 psi) I decided to replace the engine instead of rebuilding it. I hope 60 additional ponnies under the hood will make it all worth it ;D
Fordem,
I'll definitely do the front and rear seals.
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So, I received some pictures form the salvage yard showing the engine, some additional parts and the engine bay. They are asking if I need anything else (e.g. sensors etc.) to be removed and included in the package.
If you've done this swap before, could you take a look and let me know if I need anything else. I'm not sure if you can see in the pictures below but I already made sure they sent me the dash harness, MAF, P/S pump, alternator and compressor.
Thanks.
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If you can you will want the secondary 02 sensor that goes behind the cat.
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Id go with a new o2 sensor myself, for the price. Here is what trail tough said I needed for the swap. Obviously some things you could get away with not having but this is the list they gave me.
"You will need to get from us the harness
modification service, 3 speed auto torque converter adapter, motor mounts
and tach modification service. You will also need a Vitara 2.0 oil pan,
pick u tube, coolant pipe and manifold, exhaust manifold, power steering
pump and bracket for this conversion. The Vitara radiator and air box
will need to fitted to the 1998."
In order for them to make you a harness you need the aerio engine and dash harness, as well as your 1.6 harness's.
I believe you could get away with using the aerio airbox myself, as well as the aerio rad with cooling fans. If and when I go down this road I'll be attempting to use both as I gave my 2.0 rad and airbox away during a garage cleanup.
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Pay close attention to those "airboxes" - on the 2.0 Vitara/Tracker engine the MAF is between the airbox and the throttle body, and the IAT (intake air temp) sensor in the airbox. On the 2.0 Aerio, I think the MAF is a part of the throttle body, the IAT is in the air box, and on the 2.3 Aerio, I think the IAT is a part of the MAF and both are located in the airbox.
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One other thing to consider is your water temperature. gauge. On the Aerio 2.3l the dash is digital signals, and if you are using your 98 Tracker analog dash you will need another water temp sending unit.I don;t remember if there is another temp sensor or spot for one on the motor. We ran a piece of 1 1'/2' exhaust tube from the back of block cooling water outlet (from a 2.0 tracker) up to from of motor and rubber hose to radiator. We put a bung on this cooling water outlet line for our dash water temp gauge sensor. The steel water line has to be supported (grounded) to the motor in order for the temp sensor to work.
If you notice that our water line goes through the dash, we didn't know the 2.0 water outlet had a 90 degree bend on it, so made our water line off the straight outlet of the Aerio. You don't want to do that, we made a cover to prevent water from leaking/spraying inside drivers compartment.
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Steven,
If my analog temp sensor doesn't work, I don't mind putting an additional gauge. Thank you for the suggestion. I hope to get some input on this from TT as well. I hope I can install a digital one where I can run a wire from the engine bay to the dash. In the picture I see you used a tubular exhaust manifold. Is it off of a 2.0? Is it modified?
fordem,
TT asked me to get the airbox with the 2.3. Dillon said 2.3 airbox can be modified to work in mt Tracker. So, I'm getting the MAF and the airbox form the 2.3. I did not even look for a 2.0 airbox.
Perryd,
I got a similar list from TT except the P/S components. There was a discussion between me, Dillon and Brent at TT and the final decision was Aerio P/S would work. What do you think? The local yard has a 2.0 Tracker with the P/S set up on it. I'd like to get it before it's gone if I'll need it. I'll get a new 2.0 radiator from rockauto. I have a tubular exhaust manifold off of a 2.0. If I can't find a cast iron one, I'll have to modify it. Any suggestions on that? I'm still undecided whether send the harness to TT or DIY. I hear they do a great job with the labels and everything and it becomes a plug-and-play but I'm trying to keep the overall cost at a minimum. We'll see...
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We used the Aerio exhaust manifold (requires a custom motor mount on DS, not worth the bother) because intake, exhaust and cams are major hp differences in same motor. We tried to keep as much of the 145 hp as possible. Did it make a difference, yes there was a lot more work making two motor mounts for DS. Was it worth it, I highly doubt it.
You can't go wrong listening to Fordem. He doesn't swap motors, but his brain has so much information stored up there it is amazing. My brain leaks a lot from cracks and poor managment, so I stopped trying to fill it to capacity.
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I'd like to keep the engine all original but I have no metal fabrication tools. So, I'll stick with TT motor mounts. Dillon at TT suggested I should get a cast iron 2.0 exhaust manifold but I could not find one that's not cracked. I'll have to modify the tubular 2.0 manifold to accept the 1.6 downpipe. 2.0 manifold has a 3-bolt flange with 2" ID while the downpipe is a 2-bolt (don't know the ID).
I think I need an adapter that looks like the ones in the pictures or something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161318750085?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/161318750085?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
Any suggestions?
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Without metal fabrication tools???
You need to talk to your exhaust shop, let them connect you exhaust system together or create a new one. Here in Wa. shops can not install used catalytic converters in an exhaust system, but if they have removed it they can reuse it. So if you have the one from the Aerio you may be able reuse it even though you are using a different exhaust manifold.
I hope you have a garage to work in. Snow is hard to swap motors in.
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I have a drill and a grinder but no welding tools. We don't have emission inspection where I live but I assume exhaust shops would still have to follow the federal law when it comes to catalytic converters.
I hope I'll be able to use an adapter similar to the one in the last picture. I think I can cut the "ears" off of the 2-bolt flange on top of the downpipe and use the remaining part as a "neck" to install the split adapter. Something similar to these videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7z62QX8N0U (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7z62QX8N0U)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZAoBAZgNxM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZAoBAZgNxM)
I know taking on a swap like this without fabrication tools may prove unwise but I think I can handle it. I'll buy the motor mounts from TT. The only possible issues are exhaust modification (if I cannot find a cast iron manifold) and the radiator mounts. Talking about the radiator mounts, did you have a chance to take a picture of Drone's set up?
I don't have a garage but I'll rent a storage unit for a month. They said they would let me work on my car as long as I keep it clean.
Fingers crossed! ;)
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Still waiting for the radiator to return, I will send photo's of it when it comes.
When the wiring comes in, look it over good. The decision of whether to have TT do the modifications should be made and scheduled before you start the tear down.
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I called TT and they told me turnaround time would be 1-2 weeks including shipping.
I also received my engine harness today. I'm not sure if I'll be able to swap the entire wiring when the time comes but I thought it would be a good idea to know what connects to where in the engine. I'm not familiar with the 2.3 engine and I'd like to ask for you guys' help identifying the plugs.
I labeled every single connector (there are 34 of them) in the harness and took pictures. They were a little too large and I had to post them in 4 sets. Would you mind taking a look at them and let me know where they go on the engine. I can take more pictures if they are not clear enough.
Thanks.
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Engine harness 2.
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Engine harness 3.
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Engine harness 4.
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We no longer have a 2.3 so I won't be much help in identifying plugs. Isn't your motor coming with automatic wiring attached? Remove & replace! Also this is where the FSM wiring diagrams come in handy. There is a section of Wiring Systems that have "Inline Harness Connector End Views" with connector # and an end view, number of pins, function, and pin wiring colors. There are routing views of wiring, grounding system views, testing procedures, wiring diagrams, Component Locator (very helpful when lost). Once you become familiar with the FSM's their value will exceed their cost.
This is where you realize that it is going to take you more than the 1-2 weeks for TT turn around time just to figure out what is what let alone break the harness apart and get it put back together so it goes on motor correctly. But it worked on stock motor, what does extra wires not used hurt?
It is time or money (and sanity decreases as either of those decrease).
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Thanks Steven. The salvage yard guys had already removed the engine and CUT the harness off :( by the time I contacted them. So, I had to buy the harness separately. In fact, this is an M/T harness.
I know it's a lot of work and I 'm not expecting forum members to do the whole job they may know/remember where a few connectors go or take pictures of their engine bay and post. Second reason is: when I get my FSM (it's on its way) I'll definitely check the wiring diagram and post where each of the 34 plugs go. This way, future "swappers" will have a better time. It might even become a sticky, ha? :)
Using the FSM, I can identify the plugs but I'll have to send the whole thing to TT to make Aerio and Tracker harnesses talk to each other.
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Thanks Steven. The salvage yard guys had already removed the engine and CUT the harness off :( by the time I contacted them. So, I had to buy the harness separately. In fact, this is an M/T harness.
I know it's a lot of work and I 'm not expecting forum members to do the whole job they may know/remember where a few connectors go or take pictures of their engine bay and post. Second reason is: when I get my FSM (it's on its way) I'll definitely check the wiring diagram and post where each of the 34 plugs go. This way, future "swappers" will have a better time. It might even become a sticky, ha? :)
Using the FSM, I can identify the plugs but I'll have to send the whole thing to TT to make Aerio and Tracker harnesses talk to each other.
So do you send the Dash harness also?
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So do you send the Dash harness also?
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You mean to TT? Yes, I will. Dillon says they need the engine and dash harness from Aerio as well as the Tracker speedometer. I called the salvage yard guys early enough to save the dash harness. It's on its way with the engine.
BTW, I've just received flywheel package. It all looks good. I'll order throw out and pilot bearings for the Tracker as you suggested. It should all fit nicely. What about this bushing? I've replaced the clutch on my '90 Tracker once. I don't remember a bushing? Is it b/c of the swap? If so, where does it fit?
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The way the harness attaches to the engine/dash can only really go one way, and you'll see this when you receive your engine. Most of the plugs are also unique to their connector so it's hard to mix them up. If you are having an trouble matching them up once your engine arrives, post it up and I should be able to tell you what it belongs to from what I have.
This is what I use for my 2006 aerio for an FSM, it's not great but it's free. Has a page or two missing I think but I have used it for some big jobs.
http://workshop-manuals.com/suzuki/aerio/l4-2.3l/relays_and_modules/relays_and_modules_brakes_and_traction_control/abs_light_relay/component_information/locations/ (http://workshop-manuals.com/suzuki/aerio/l4-2.3l/relays_and_modules/relays_and_modules_brakes_and_traction_control/abs_light_relay/component_information/locations/)
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once your engine arrives, post it up and I should be able to tell you what it belongs to from what I have.
Thanks a lot. I thought so too. Once I have the engine in front of me, I think all pieces of the puzzle will fall into place. The link you posted looks very useful but I already placed an order for an FSM, it should be here soon. It wasn't the cheapest thing but I know these things worth their weight in gold in the long run.
I'll place an order at rockauto for the following and install them while the engine is out. Can you guys think of anything else I might need?
timing chain and tensioners
oil pump
front and rear crank seals
oil pan gasket
exhaust manifold gasket
throw out&pilot bearings
spark plugs
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I think you'll be safe with that list. I've had 2 aerios and they are very reliable. A big bonus with having it in the tracker will be the ease of service. I was going to say have the alternator tested and possibility rebuilt, because I've had it fail on both of them. But when in the tracker that would be a very easy job to complete as it's right out in front and not squat down under everything. I'd test and clean the EGR too as they have given me some issues in the past too.
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I think you'll be safe with that list. I've had 2 aerios and they are very reliable. A big bonus with having it in the tracker will be the ease of service. I was going to say have the alternator tested and possibility rebuilt, because I've had it fail on both of them. But when in the tracker that would be a very easy job to complete as it's right out in front and not squat down under everything. I'd test and clean the EGR too as they have given me some issues in the past too.
I'll definitely have the alternator tested. Also, good call on the EGR cleaning. In fact, I wanted to add the EGR valve in my list but decided that cleaning the old one is a better idea after seeing the price tag, $230! :o
Also, decided to remove the oil pump from the list too as rockauto does not have one I didn't want to buy a cheap one on ebay. I'll install an oil pressure gauge and monitor. If it's too low, I'll have to bite the bullet and buy one for $100+.
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So, it seemd like the only loose end left is the radiator. Dillon at TT says that the alternator from a 2.0 should work fine. So, I found this: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzuki,2000,vitara,2.0l+l4,1364598,cooling+system,radiator,2172 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzuki,2000,vitara,2.0l+l4,1364598,cooling+system,radiator,2172)
$55 isn't too bad for a brand new radiator. What do you think? Would this work?
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The spec's on that one is the same as what you are running now. Save you $55 and use it towards a better fan. We had overheating issues with both stock AC booster fan and stock radiator.
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The spec's on that one is the same as what you are running now. Save you $55 and use it towards a better fan. We had overheating issues with both stock AC booster fan and stock radiator.
If they have the same cooling capacity I'd like to use mine and save $55. However, I think the inlet and outlet of Tracker radiator are on the wrong side, aren't they? They are on the passenger side on Tracker and on the passenger side on 2.3. If that is the case, How do I fix it? Flexible coolant hoses, may be?
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Has anyone ever tried using the aerio fans/rad? It has 2 full sized electric fans.
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Has anyone ever tried using the aerio fans/rad? It has 2 full sized electric fans.
I've read most (if not all) 2.3 swap threads out there but never seen one with Aerio fans. In fact, I haven't pictures of the radiator set up at all. In any case, my engine will not come with fans but I was thinking of mounting a pair of these diagonally on my Tracker radiator: http://www.ebay.com/itm/172433216567?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/172433216567?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
or may be one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-INCH-ELECTRIC-COOLING-FAN-12-VOLT-PUSH-IN-RADIATOR-FIN-PROBE-THERMOSTAT-KIT-/231727573294?hash=item35f40a292e:g:P28AAOSwstxVgMSM&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-INCH-ELECTRIC-COOLING-FAN-12-VOLT-PUSH-IN-RADIATOR-FIN-PROBE-THERMOSTAT-KIT-/231727573294?hash=item35f40a292e:g:P28AAOSwstxVgMSM&vxp=mtr)
Because I hear it's more about the air flow than it is about the radiator itself. What do you guys think?
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I will that without proper airflow a bigger radiator takes longer to heat up. That is why I stressed a good fan. I ran my 2.7L on the stock Tracker radiator, and it did fine at home and backroads, but I had overheating at Moab and long slow stretches. My bigger radiator overheated until I got a 3000 cfm fan.
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Now I see how you could use the Tracker radiator. I do have the pipe from the 2.0, so I don't need to use a long pipe like you did. May be I can use a flexpipe to go from the pipe to the radiator top inlet. What about the bottom. Do you have any pictures?
Also, what kind of fan did you use? Brand name and/or part number would be very useful. Did you use the Tracker shroud? No shroud? A custom one?
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We originally used the A/C fan but that couldn't quite keep up so instead picked up a generic fan off Amazon. It seems to do the job but doesn't really compare to real Flex-a-lite fan. As for the size just get one that matches your radiator and will fit in front of the motor.
If you still find it getting hot you can put some hood louvers to improve the airflow when your going slow.
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I believe I did the same thing. Exhaust pipe works good. No photos of the bottom.
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We originally used the A/C fan but that couldn't quite keep up so instead picked up a generic fan off Amazon. It seems to do the job but doesn't really compare to real Flex-a-lite fan. As for the size just get one that matches your radiator and will fit in front of the motor.
If you still find it getting hot you can put some hood louvers to improve the airflow when your going slow.
Thanks. I'll go to the junk yard and find a dual fan system I could use. If not, I'll get two 10" electric fans and mount them. However, I've read the fans won't have maximum efficiency unless I install them with shroud and the ones that come with shroud cost big $$$. I'm also thinking of getting a single 16" fan and use it with the Tracker shroud. I'd have to enlarge the fan opening.
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We originally used the A/C fan but that couldn't quite keep up so instead picked up a generic fan off Amazon. It seems to do the job but doesn't really compare to real Flex-a-lite fan. As for the size just get one that matches your radiator and will fit in front of the motor.
If you still find it getting hot you can put some hood louvers to improve the airflow when your going slow.
Thanks. I'll go to the junk yard and find a dual fan system I could use. If not, I'll get two 10" electric fans and mount them. However, I've read the fans won't have maximum efficiency unless I install them with shroud and the ones that come with shroud cost big $$$. I'm also thinking of getting a single 16" fan and use it with the Tracker shroud. I'd have to enlarge the fan opening.
I am running the single 16" as a pusher because there is no room between the radiator and motor. Using the stock shroud would increase the efficiency of the fan as a puller.
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The engine is finally here. I'll ship the wiring harnesses to TT ASAP and start working on the engine next week.
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Looks sharp!
Something I didn't think about before hand, it's pretty easy to make a bracket so you can use your stock throttle cable. Just one of those little things you find out when connecting everything together.
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Bracket? I thought the Tracker throttle cable would bolt in as TT guys did not mention anything about this. Could you take a picture and let me know what it looks like?
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Reviving an old thread regarding 2.3 swap wiring problems. I bought a 2000 tracker 2 door that originally had a 1.6L / 5 speed manual in it. The previous owner had swapped a 2.0L/4 speed auto
into it. I already had a 2004 Aerio 2.3 that I had bought for my '96 grasshopper but decided to put it in the 2000 since it was going to be primarily a sand dune rig. So the swap went OK I used basically the bare longblock from the 2.3 with all the 2.0 externals and harness. It is very peppy and has great low end torque. The problem is when it hits 5000 rpm it acts like a rev limiter
and starts cutting out. I don't know what previous owner did about under dash wiring and connecting the 2.0 ECU/TCU up with the original 1.6 harness. I even bought another 2.0/auto ECU
and put it in, but still has same problem. Looks like I need wiring diagrams for both 1.6 and 2.0 vehicles so I can figure this out, but thought somebody else may have run into this same issue.
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You should be able to find the wiring diagrams over at the Suzuki-forums site - find the forum section that covers the second gen vehicles and near the top should be a pinned topic on documentation that has a link to Max' manual stash - the full manual set is perhaps four volumes - SQ416-SQ420-SQ625 parts 1 & 2, a wiring diagram supplement and one that covers the axles, transfercase & transmssion - there are a few more odds & ends for diesel variants and so on that you don't need.