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ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: hwyman on March 05, 2018, 06:44:04 AM
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Was it on this forum or another one that someone modified the front differential housing to use the drivers side front axle on both sides? I have read about it somewhere but I am having Zero luck finding the thread.
If someone has a link I would greatly appreciate it
Thanks
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Google "hagen widening mod".
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http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/technical-discussion-performance-modify/hagen-widening-mod-questions-and-diff-drop/msg295980/#msg295980 (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/technical-discussion-performance-modify/hagen-widening-mod-questions-and-diff-drop/msg295980/#msg295980)
Search this site as well
I think the links are on the home page near the bottom
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Thanks for the help
I need to replace both front axles and will go with a stock setup. I have a 2" spacer lift and it is my daily driver and sees 80% on road and 20% offroad/fire road so it may not be worth the effort and expense of finding a shop to do the fab work for what I use it for
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I can't help but wonder if it would be worth it to do this differently.
Instead of widening the track to accept the longer axles, make the stub as described along with three shortened axles to fit the right side, add a spacer on the left side so the shortened axle fits, and you've achieved the intent of the modification - the ability to easily swap a broken axle and to carry a single spare.
You could also combine this with one of the other axle mods - using a larger stronger outer CV - I think it might have been from a ranger.
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I wonder if it would work with standard length drivers side axles if I used the drop brackets for the differential?
For what I use the tracker for I think the ranger axle mod would be over kill but I am sure it would be worth reading about just to satisfy my curiousity
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The stub shaft can be made independent of the widening mod. As you raise your ride and adjust Diff drop to get every set in right spot it makes changing out the ps CV's a much simpler job. If you look at your CV shafts, they are slanted towards the back of vehicle. So when you move the back hole of the A-arm mount outwards, it moves the ball joint forward and outward (in an arc, it is a triangle).
This outward move is somewhat canceled by straightening the CV, so it is not slanted backwards as much, and the reason for using the extra flanges.
If you make the stub shaft getting the shaft length correct is very important, as it ends up really close to the diff mount bolt heads. I have heard of some using counter sunk bolts to keep clearance between the diff mount bolt heads and the CV shaft bolt heads.