ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: chrisvitarasport94 on March 04, 2004, 07:49:17 AM
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forgive me, I know this'll have been asked before, but someone may have an up to date experience. I'm in the UK, with a'94 3dr Vitara Sport, and so have locally sourced +1.5" Ironman springs with 1" (imported) RRO spacers, and +2" strut spacers on standard struts. Fitted 6 months ago, the camber looks just about OK but I feel I'd like to do something about it as minor tyre wear is starting to show ( it could just be truning scrub. I've seen pics of the mods to the lower end of the strut, and heard about elongating the top holes inwards by 1cm. But how do RRO accomodate this?? Are their OldManEmu strut top mount off-set???? If so I might bite the bullet and import a set. any ideas please?
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Did you have it alligned after your install? The angles change massively from a mod like this. 90% of tire wear is from toe. OME strut does not have a camber change from stock. Ive heard people claim this but it is false.
To elongate the upper hole use some type of drill or dremmel type tool to oval the hole inward.
Mike
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no I didn't get a test done as the wheel still looked upright. I understand the geometry involved, and guessed the effective movement was within the ususal range of movement available. I don't have a toe in / out problem as far as I know.
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I had the toe-in/toe out checked on my 2" spring lift after it was fitted and it was OK, I still get uneven tyre wear due to the camber change. I don't see that you can lift it 2.5" without a big camber change. The OME lift may still be within spec but adding the spacers (which are not OME) has got to have an effect.
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Where the wear comes in is during the cycling of the suspension, up & down. When stock, the change in toe and camber is not drastic. The changes have a somewhat smooth slope to it (if you placed a graph of change over spindle travel) at first and as the farther you travel the greater the slope becomes. Now if you already start on the middle of the travel (measured as a height difference between centerlines of axis and axle), the change in the slope is drastic and gets worst.
I hope I give you some understanding. Drop brackets help in this department as the geometry between front suspension and axle components remain relatively the same.
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Ok the anser is no the ome struts do not have adjustment and no the camber is not ok. I had to get a camber corection kit for mine.
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no I didn't get a test done as the wheel still looked upright. I understand the geometry involved, and guessed the effective movement was within the ususal range of movement available. I don't have a toe in / out problem as far as I know.
I can assure you that the allignment has changed. Ive never seen an allignment still be good after spacers.
Mike
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Zookiemike - a camber correction kit sounds exactly what I need - where can I get one? what's it include / involve ? did it work?
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Yeah it worked great it included / involved some ecentrec bolts and some plastic things that went in the two lower strut holes. I got them at car quest for like $20 or somthing like that?
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looks like I've found a solution at Speciality Products in the US - see www.specprod.com web site - with offset cam bolts in the top hole of the lower strut mount, with +/- 2 deg adjustment.
now I need to know the standard camber settings that I'm aiming to get back to .. can anyone advise me please?
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For camber sttings take a look on my website under tech info, vitara. IIRC it is 0 degrees 30 mins.
http://www.rhinoman.org
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Hi Guys,
I have a kick '93 with RROs 2.5"suspension lift, with OME and Spacers, and 2" body lift. After the installation the front wheels where like that \ /. So after a long search on the net I found the following : http://www.autospeed.com/cgi-bin/browse.cgi?category=645&product=1004300113&sc_add=1004300113&
This is Camber Correction Kit from an Australlian company. It took me 2 weeks to come (to Greece) and now my front wheels are exactly at the factory setting like nothing has changed.
I hope this helped.
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do I guess that those are offset bushes to fit into to top arm?
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I'd go to a auto parts store and look for the bolts befor you go and mess with the A arm bushings :-/
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yeah, that's what my mechanic has told me - the offset bolts can adjust + / - 1.75 deg, which should be enough. If not I can add these bushes later, and then the adjustable element of the bolt can be reset I guess.
PS - I parked next to a stock version of my ' Sport  today :) :) :) !!
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yeah, that's what my mechanic has told me - the offset bolts can adjust + / - 1.75 deg, which should be enough. If not I can add these bushes later, and then the adjustable element of the bolt can be reset I guess.
PS - I parked next to a stock version of my ' Sport  today :) :) :) !!
Bet you wished you had a digital camera :D I like the sound of the A arm bushes, more difficult to fit but they would help reduce the rather severe angle of the stock wishbone with the lift kit fitted. When I fitted my lift I took the Vit to the local 'stop and steer' centre, they checked the toe-in/toe-out which was OK but they didn't know how to use their very expensive equipment to check the camber and didn't know what it should be anyway :( :(
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I've found a good looking eccentric bolt from Monroe called Monroe Magic Camber at about $20/30! but can I find a supplier in the UK??!!
All the local tyre shops aren't interested in camber issues, you can see the shutters go up over their eyes at the very mention of it!
There's got to be a market for such an eccentric bolt and A arm bush package for anyone doing a spring & spacer type lift - I'm suprised the lift kit manufacturers haven't cottoned on - with other manufacturers making the parts there can't be any type approval issues.
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OK, so I've found a supplier of speciality products in the UK - the bolts cost £17.50 a pair + P&P £4.50 - the monroe magic cam bolts do the same thing, at £54 incl P&P a pair from Australia!  I may have to add the offset bushes as phase 2 later.