ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Model Specific Suzuki Forum => Suzuki Grand Vitara, Vitara, Chevy Tracker (Gen. 2 Platform) 1999-2005 => Topic started by: MexicoMatt on September 12, 2018, 08:06:34 AM
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Hi there, first post. I did a search and only found 1 item of note so I thought I would start a new thread.
I lost four wheel drive and decided that the air actuator was too unreliable for what I want to do. This is all on a 2004 Suzuki Grand Vitara automatic. I pulled out the front differential put air to the actuator and then tack welded inside The Notches of the differential. While I was in there that's all I could see moving and I assumed that's all I needed to do. Well lo and behold I put it all back together and I still don't have 4-wheel drive. When I did the install I also put in a set of manual locking hubs. To ensure that those weren't the problem I uninstalled them and put the stock hubs back on. Still no 4 wheel drive. I jacked the back end in the air put it in four-wheel drive and put it in Drive. Nothing. The front drive shaft into the diff is spinning but the front wheels are not. My question is this, is there something else internal that needs to be welded? I'll I attach pictures of my work.
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So after a bit of thought I realized that the MIG welder may not have gotten penetration on the case hardened steel. Out came the diff again and lo and behold sure enough every one of the eight tack weld had popped. So we improvised redneck Style and added some chunks of Steel to lock open the actual actuator ring. Now to test it.
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So after a bit of thought I realized that the MIG welder may not have gotten penetration on the case hardened steel. Out came the diff again and lo and behold sure enough every one of the eight tack weld had popped. So we improvised redneck Style and added some chunks of Steel to lock open the actual actuator ring. Now to test it.
A couple of pictures of how I fixed it. I know the welds look terrible, I am definitely not a welder.
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easier way is regear
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Looks like you used pieces of ready rod and welded over top? I would do it a little different but totally get what you're saying about the stupid air system! I'm contemplating it for sure, as for the other suggestion of re-gearing I can't find parts on the pumkins! Only lockers and phantom LSD add on's ....
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I ended up re gearing and putting a locker in the rear
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easier way is regear
"Re-gearing" is completely unrelated to the deletion of the air actuated free wheel mechanism - the only commonality is that both can be done at the same time.
You can "re-gear" and leave the air actuated mechanism in place, or, you can weld the dog clutch thereby permanently engaging them without touching the gearing.
"Re-gearing" is only required if you are running larger tires, and even then, only once you exceed a certain size - I'm running tires that are a little over 6% larger than OEM and see no need to re-gear, however, the dog clutches in my front diff do slip from time to time (it's audible when it happens - this was happening on OEM sized tires, so it's not related to the increase in tire size), so at some point I will weld the clutches engaged - manual free wheel hubs have already been fitted.
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Can I assume that with good lines, healthy new or refurbished actuator pump (my route) and good hubs that the stock system is adequate? My Tracker is/will be an occasional use 4x4 as in forestry roads or roads to look-outs type of use. If it gets gnarly as in mud holes, boulder gardens I intend to turn around. My desire is to take care of my vehicle vs beat on it to get to trails end...
My use will be more 'rally car' set-up and Subaru style usage...
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I'm going from memory here, and getting older, so memory is not what it used to be, but disclaimer aside, I think on a 2000 with the system in good condition you should be fine - earlier vehicles had problems with the dog clutches slipping under heavy loads, and I believe the assembly were redesigned within the first year or so - you'll know soon enough if yours is problematic, you'll hear a metallic bang if/when it slips - I don't think the 4x4 usage you have envisioned will put too much stress on it.
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"Re-gearing" is completely unrelated to the deletion of the air actuated free wheel mechanism - the only commonality is that both can be done at the same time.
You can "re-gear" and leave the air actuated mechanism in place, or, you can weld the dog clutch thereby permanently engaging them without touching the gearing.
"Re-gearing" is only required if you are running larger tires, and even then, only once you exceed a certain size - I'm running tires that are a little over 6% larger than OEM and see no need to re-gear, however, the dog clutches in my front diff do slip from time to time (it's audible when it happens - this was happening on OEM sized tires, so it's not related to the increase in tire size), so at some point I will weld the clutches engaged - manual free wheel hubs have already been fitted.
I swapped out for earlier gears this deleting the air system, now if you lock in it’s all mechanical, the tracker has had major amount of work to it, from custom front axles to transfer case.. but not to deter the thread.