ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: SnoFalls on July 10, 2005, 11:18:18 AM
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(http://www.avalonforest.com/geo/misc/snorkel.jpg)
The "top" isn't finalized, but I'm happy so far.
1 45*, 2 90*, and about 5' of 2" pipe ...
I did have to hack some metal to go inside the fender, but I didn't want to go outside since I'd then just bash it off in the tree mazes I end up in ... (aka I normally pull the mirrors when on trails since I would lose them for sure otherwise).
It does tie into the stock 8v airbox, so that's my filter.
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Oh ... and I think I can get that "corner" of the fender back on ... just need to hack on it some ...
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Nice! I like how it goes in through the top instead of the side. Shouldn't be to hard to get it back to stock incase you want to sell, not to mention the clearance.
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Good work Snofalls
Looks good to me
Zag
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Nice! I like how it goes in through the top instead of the side.
That was a big one for me ... I figured thro the side for me woulda lasted one run ...
Shouldn't be to hard to get it back to stock incase you want to sell.
I'm so far from "stock", let alone "sell" ... I figure the same could be done and maintain "stock look", but I did have to hack some (other than the 2.5" hole).
I'll be pulling that fender again soon, and will get a pic of the hackage. It aint pretty ... but I'm just a broke bastard ;D
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Poverty is the ultimate breeding ground for ingenuity. Making something out of nothing, for next to nothing ...thats genius ;D
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Now if there were some way to disguise the
obvious ABS seams in the tubing it would look
like a factory made Snorkle
Wild
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i have quit the same design only enter my fender a little different and use an electrical feed cap to finsh off the top check out my site. have had mine for about 2 years now i find that it really hurts gas milage so i diconnect it when its not needed. to make this work under water i also had to seel the ditribtor cap and run a breathing tube inside the cab for the distributor. i have a 16 valvue engine. i also put silcon on the coil plug and the plug wires. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/769479/2
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/769000-769999/769479_10.jpg)
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/769000-769999/769479_11.jpg)
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/769000-769999/769479_12.jpg)
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i have quit the same design only enter my fender a little different...
Yea the 8v required a different design, but the effect is the same.
I still need to do the rest of the waterproofing. Diff breateher will extend inside behind the glovebox, sel up the dist (a bead of rtv around the base should help), and silcon the wiring.
I might also run a "drip hose" from the bottom of the airbox to let rain escape, but be easily plugged before wheeling.
What's the dist breather? ... didn't know the distributer had a breather. (or did you mean diff).
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Now if there were some way to disguise the
obvious ABS seams in the tubing it would look
like a factory made Snorkle
Wild
take the ABS design to a muffler shop and have them mandrel bend some exhaust tubing to replicate ... then again I don;t care about the "ABS" look ;D
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Great job 8), keep us updated with pics when you decide on a top.
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that is pretty cool sno , looks good 8)
jason
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i. have had mine for about 2 years now i find that it really hurts gas milage so i diconnect it when its not needed.
Why did it hurt the gas mileage? It seems that cool forced air would help milage and maybe power.
Jeff
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It hurts gas mileage because it is os restrictive and the air ain't that cold by the time it gets to the injection
Zag
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It hurts gas mileage because it is os restrictive and the air ain't that cold by the time it gets to the injection
Zag
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I doubt it's any more restrictive than the stock assembly under the fender ... that stuff is a joke.
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SnoFalls
You would be surprized. The longer the intake tube and the more times it turns the
more restrictive it is. But if you are gonna go through deep water and stuff it's a compromise you have to live with.
Ever notice that Race cars have generally short air intake systems that seem huge for the size of engine.
The other way to look at it is the volume of air that the engien moves...you zuk |removethispart|@ 3500 rpm is moving around 100 cubic feet of air per minute......thats a pile of airr to pull through a 2-3" tube.
Zag
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i lost my conversion formula for air restriction per GM motor corperation, but it was something like for ever 8" longer it must increas by 1" diameter. if i ran a 3" pipe my motor wouldn't know the differance but the only way to do that is to go through the side of the fender. for those of u who need a literal demonstration take 6' of garden hose and breath throght it and see how much harder it is than breathin trough a 6" hose. the ECM dose a pretty good job compensating but a top end it has a bad lag if u r cruisig and then punch it stalls for power them kicks back in. it does lag a little bit on bottom end from idle when accerlerating hard.
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the loss is directly related to the friction of the pipe and the number of bends. Thats why you need to go larger the longer you get to over come those. The elbows are the worst though. long radius elbows would help that but would make fittting it harder.
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you guys are exactly right........it's a compromise to be able to ford deep water
Zag
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You have seen the stock "feeder" tube tho right? They are something like 2"x3/8" openings (2 of them if I recall), so that's around 1.5 square inches with lots of tight bends ... Also, the feed into the airbox is about 2" diameter (I'd pulled that stock feeder stuff long ago).
A 2" tube is around 6 square inches ... and with mine I have two reasonably long 90* and one 45*. The through the side of the fender types eliminate one 90* (but I'd snag that on a tree in no time).
I know mine is going to restrict more than a short pipe coming straight outta the hood (which is also an option ;D ), but I fell better now knowing I can splash around in the mud without sucking up REAL nasty stuff!!!
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I agree with you SnoFalls
Losing a couple of hp is alot better than hydraulicing the motor...by far
Zag
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i run a snorkle also i am not saying it is a bad idea but that there r compromises and if it is ur daily driver u may want to make an easy way to disconect and reconnect it.
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if you can find away to get the best of both worlds it is the best answer
Zag
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Just bring the pipe in directly off the top of the tbi into the back of the glove box.? then you could carry some ether arround and take the glove box out and have boost ;D
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Just bring the pipe in directly off the top of the tbi into the back of the glove box.? then you could carry some ether arround and take the glove box out and have boost ;D
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Here's a thought for the top. Make it so the opening sticks straight forward. Put a 2"-3" adapter and a few inches of 3" pipe. Then maybe even a 3"-4" adapter and a few inches of 4" pipe. Make it into a "speed reactive supercharger".ÂÂ
I was reading an article on Hi-po street bikes and the ram air intakes they came with from the factory. The magazine (I can't remember which one it was) did an unscientific test on a dyno. First, they ran several bikes on a dyno to get a baseline number. Then they ran all of the bikes on the dyno again with a pipes connected to the ram air inlets and air blown down the pipes at 150 m.p.h. The larger displacement bikes didn't experience as much of a power gain as the smaller displacement bikes because they were able to use more air than the fans were able to generate, but some of the smaller bikes gained as much as 10 h.p. Not that you will gain 10 h.p., although you may because you are using a much larger opening, but I bet you pick up a few h.p. Maybe even enough to offset what you are losing by having a snorkel in the first place.
Just think of it as a fart cannon on the intake side of the engine.
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If I ever get to 150mph it will because I went over a cliff. It usually takes those sorta speeds for the ram effect to come into play (ricers will say different).
Anyway trail crawl is around 4 mph generally, so not much ram effect going on :)
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Anyway trail crawl is around 4 mph generally, so not much ram effect going on :)
Yeah, but trail crawl isn't where you would need extra h.p., thats what low gearing and torque are for. You might pick up 3-5 h.p. at 70mph on the freeway which is where you will need it.ÂÂ
Besides, that kind of setup has the potential to look either BAD A**, or completely rediculas depending on your point of view. If it were on Project Rockstar, it might look a little better than if it were on an otherwise nearly stock looking rig.
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I have thought about building a hood with a hood scoop that is tied into the airbox, just not sure how I would keep water out driving in the rain.
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IMO, you'll need to be 90+ to see a ram effect ... just not worth it (other than "looks")
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If you quit chasing the ram effect and just go for as much easy breathing air as possible it'l work just fine.......but don't ry deep water, then you need a snorkel and the compromises that go with it.
As far as a hood scoop...as long as the water has a place to drain it is generally not a problem in the rain....just deep water.
Zag
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I shall solve this debate once and for all.
The stock air box is restrictive. The 2" snorkle is just as restrictive, but allows for deepwater crossing, something I learned early on that it's a must.
What everyone needs is a snorkle, be it 2" or whatever you can make up. It looks cool and you can ford deep water. For the highway, you need to have an access cover on the bottom of the air filter box, something perhaps with threads for a good seal, so that it provides a large opening for air to bipass the snorkle.
an alternative is, simply disconnect the rubber hose between the airbox and the aluminum intake runner thingy, put on a k&n filter. I f you want cold air intake for that added 1 hp, get a 3" flexible dryer type hose, automotive specific, hook one end to the aluminum air intake ( with a reducer if required) or just a hose clamp, attach said k&n filter on other end and secure in front of vehicle.
remember to remove filter if youre wheeling, dont want to soak it in mud if you dont have to.
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Good thinkin
Removing the hose and stuffin on a cone type filter!
Simple, eloquent, affordable..............excellent thinking
Zag
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Well I just thought the hood scoop would be amusing when people found out it was functional, not worried about the +1 in HP, and I dont' do that much crossing deep water so that is not a problem.
Does anyone know if they make any type of piping in 3.5" I can find 3 and 4, but not 3.5". Just curious