ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: 00nothing on February 04, 2004, 07:15:44 AM
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hey here we go this is my second post and first noob question i have heard about using hockey pucks or other items to do a DIY lift now would i trust a hockey puck not on your life actually not on mine or my kids life but when looking at a picture of a lift kit on some site i noticed that what they are using to lift are nylon spacers my question is i want to do a 2 or 3" lift using square tubular steel is that an acceptable form of lifting a tracker adn what if any problems will ihave using this type of lift and also if i go with a 3" lift do i need to worry about the lengths of any of my lines and any other related lift problems
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ya can but you will need some 2X2 tubing as well. tons of other stuff for it too but i don't have time right now for all the details.
Stu
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Do yourself a big favor and go here http://www.rocky-road.com/kicksus.html then send them $119 and save yourself a lot of headaches. ;D
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OR HERE  ;D...... http://www.puresuzuki.com/3_body_lift.htm ... HAPPY ZUKING ! MATTY D.  :o
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thanks for the links guys but just looking at the kit on the calmini page theres nothing there i couldn't just fab up myself for fairly cheap if someone knows some tech reasons why i shouldn't please tell me its not that i want to do it cheap its just thats what the pocket book is going to allow until later in the year like closer to the end of summer so for those months i would like to be able to gget some lift so i can go play on the trails with my kid brother in his yj adn a couple of other guys we know
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If you got the tools and know how, go for it.
I did a 4" lift for mine, as you might know
you can't buy a 4" (as far as I know) so I
went the custom route, that and nobody
had a body lift when I did mine, ohh well.
Remember the steering is going to need
a section added and your fuel filler needs
to be extended too.
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I suggest that you don't use a standard hocky puck. It's the wrong material for the on/off-road environment. The rubber will break down and you will need to replace it. Had a friend do this on a late model GM truck. Within 6 months, he had to replace them. He then went with a 2" body lift from a manufacturer.
The hardware is pretty basic. It's what the lift affects which you must be aware of. By adding a body lift, you are separating the body from it's frame mounts. You will need to make sure the 'spacer' has enough surface on both sides to work properly in it's location. You will also need to address the point which the body is not attached to the frame, but rests on it. Then you need to be concerned with anything that is between the body and the frame, ie. wiring, brake lines, parking brake cables, shifters, hoses (gas, engine, ac, etc.), steering shafts, etc. You will also need to be concerned about the items which are attached to the body and the engine, ie. air cleaner, ps tank, etc.
Most to all this is common sense, but atleast you have to be aware of it. Once you are done, you'll need to check the functions of the car before road testing. Check brakes, steering, shifters (boots tend to get in the way so a large hole may be necessary), gas tank fill line, etc.
As for DIY, I'm looking forward to warmer weather to add a 1-2" body lift for a Sami to my XL-7.
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if i lift it 3 inches what kinda issues am i going to get into versus lifting it 2 inches
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i found this site a long time ago and it goes over in great detail how to do the lift its self the way you were suggesting but for a 2.5" lift
ftp://http://home.golden.net/~haida/suzuki/tech/tips/lift.html
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thank you very much this is the kinda thing i was looking for now i just have to figure out what kinda meat to put under it
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Meat ?? Try some Bologna skins
Real tough and meaty
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lol no i need bolagna chubs 2 of them the big ones and i need them by tonight
i'm thinking i'm gonna end up going with 31's but i just don't know which ones to get
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31s are a good size, not too big for stock
gears, and lots of choices in tread.
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HEY WILD, ARE YOU SAYING THAT 31'S CAN BE HANDLED BY STOCK GEARS.....IVE GOT 32 SWAMPERS AND 5TH GEAR IS GONE....WAS THINKING OF DROPPING BACK TO 31'S FOR CLEARANCE ANYHOW...BUT IF THE STOCK GEARS COULD BE MAINTAINED ::) HMMMMMM $600 TOWARDS SOMETHING ELSE...CAUSE GEARS AND A REAR LOCKER ARE HIGH ON MY LIST OF TO DO'S ...MY FRIEND AT THE SPEED SHOPS BEEN LOOKING FOR SOME 31'S TO SWAP ME ..........ALSO NEXT ON THE LIST IS A DUAL FRICTION CLUTCH ;D .....MATTY D. ;D
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I've only gone from 31s to 33s So I don't know
how the 32s feel, Remember I got a little more
power with the turbo so my 31" recomendation
might not be what you were looking for, I also
have the auto trans and 4.62s for now, so I can
get like to 45 MPH in 1st |removethispart|@ 6000 RPM.
If you want to see what 31s are like cheep, get
a set of used ATs or MTs and try them, I get 4
mounted and ballanced here for $100, and I run
them on the street instead of wearing out the
swampers.