ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Speedracer7c on January 22, 2004, 12:46:45 AM
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I still have no power, as far as i can tell. I have no other rig to compare to. I just did cap rotor and plug wires, again in hopes to solve something. I didn't change the plugs yet again. I thought that it could be the ignition timing but I dont know. Now its onto the fuel system I guess. I just did the fuel filter. I don't know if its the fuel pump. If it was the fuel pump wouldn't it just quit? I am at a loss and becoming really frustrated. I have the 16 valve its an automatic. I can't even keep speed up hills and traffic gets pissed at me. Any help is appreciated.
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Hey Speedracer,
Many moons ago on my first Sammi I had a no power problem. Turned out to be a blocked catalytic converter. The thing would start and run but had zero power when I applied the gas. After spending a weekend w/ the FSM I couldn't find anything, except that all the gadgets and gizmos I was checking for this problem were vacuum operated. I called the Zuk dealer and explained my problem and asked " is it possible there's no vacuum like the exhaust is plugged?" His reply was "didn't you get the recall for the bad cats?" OBVIOUSLY NOT! >:(
They put the new cat in and man what a difference! Race car power! Apparently the thing had been slowly deteriorating over time and I never noticed unti it gave up the ghost.
Hope your problem is that easy! ;) Later
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But There is plenty of exhaust coming out. Or it seems liek there is anyway. Especially when it is cold. I don't have money to buy a new cat right now. SO I guess I can try gutting it.
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Look at it this way, if you gut it and if fixes it, it made for a really easy diagnosis as well as fixing the problem. If you don't have emissions to worry about anytime soon then don't worry about replacing it anyway.
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nope no emmisions. Hopefully the studs don't snap. Thanks for the help guys. Now when i gut it. Do I just drill a bunch of holes in it or something I don't know
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Unbolt the cat and as little of the rest of the exhaust as you can get away with.
Get it to where you can stick a broomstick in the end of it and then put the broomstick on the floor and bang the cat on the end of it which will break apart the mesh stuff on the insde of it. You could use a steel rod or whatever else fits the bill. Just empty all the crap you break out of it out and that's pretty much it.
If you can only take the exhaust off from the cat back then you'll have to use a big piece of rebar and a hammer to do it but it works the same way.
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Ok sounds good, I'm a little aprehensive because there seems to be plenty of exhaust coming out but who knows....
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Well other than unofficially being on the EPA's naughty list, if you don't have emissions testing where you're at it's not really going to do anything other than destroy an otherwise functional cat if it's not plugged. It's not going to affect your driveability or anything else. If you don't get smogged you might want to look at having someone help you weld in a test pipe instead of the cat instead.
Basically the only downside to doing this is that you're technically breaking the law and might not pass a smog test, other than that there's really no problems you're likely to run into.
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No smog here, So i guess i'm set. I'm headed out to do it now. Wish me luck
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FWIW, I said the same thing to the dealer. I can hold my hand over the exhaust of the 1.3 when it's cold for quite a while until enough pressure builds up to force me to let go. It aint no small block chebby! So if you think about it, the least bit of exhaust restriction on those 'hamster motors' has a fairly large effect on performance.
Good luch on the carnage! ;D
BTW if the exhaust is still stock, you can replace it w/ a Walker for about 100 bucks.
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Good luck and don't worry removing a cat is not gonna hurt that zuk. A plugged cat is kinda like when you gotta fart and can't ya feel like sh** ! or u wanna ;D
so think how that zuk will feel and run after it gets to let a big one! 8)
Can't beleive I posted that! :o
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Yeah just look at a plugged cat as the Zuke being constipated and/or "corked."
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Well I just gutted my cat, and I think that some of it went into the muffler cause now it is completely nutless. I cant' get the nuts off the flange in from of the muffler so It looks like tomorrow its getting cut off and a new muffler is going on...bah
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Not even with vice grips and a ton of penetrating oil? (NOT WD-40, there's better stuff than that)
What about a blowtorch?
Absolute worst case you could just take the rest of the exhaust off on the hangers, pick it up and shake it to empty it out.
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how ion the hell did you gut the cat out from on the ground?
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Well I just gutted my cat, and I think that some of it went into the muffler cause now it is completely nutless. I cant' get the nuts off the flange in from of the muffler so It looks like tomorrow its getting cut off and a new muffler is going on...bah
If you end up having to do this, just replace the cat with a piece of straight pipe while you're there.
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If you end up having to do this, just replace the cat with a piece of straight pipe while you're there.
BUT THEN YOU MAY HAVE A PROBLEM GETTING A STATE INSPECTION STICKER...ATLEAST HERE IN NY.....ITS GOTTA BE THERE....HOLLOWED OUT IS THE WAY TO GO ..IF YOU WANNA KEEP IT LEGAL (LOOKING)........MATTY D.
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Matty D Is right, gotta have a cat for legal inspection. Anyways. I gutted it with a 3/4 drill bit and a really long drill extension and just drilled it out. And vacuumed all the pieces out. It was a royal pain in the ass. THe only pieces i coudln't get out went down the pipe and Into my damn muffller. Now i got serious issues. New Muffler here I come, thats why I need pipe diameters.
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I'VE BEEN CONTEMPLATING THE HOLLOWED OUT TRICK MYSELF...BUT ITS TO DARN COLD OUTSIDE TO DO MUCH WORK ON THE ZUKE RIGHT NOW ;D
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Yeah, just make sure you don't plug up you muffler! Damnit....
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Have you checked the Cam Timing Belt yet ???
If you got missing teeth it can slip and cause
the lack of power, it will slip on the crank, and
with a 16V if it slips too much you will lunch the
valves.
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Just did the timing belt last month, when the tensioner decided to let go. So I don't think its that, I do have the 16 Valve motor, I made sure the timing was right. If this cat thing doesn't work out, i'll have to look into the ignition timing.
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Did the valves hit the pistons ???
They might have, just enough to
lower your compression and :P
the power, has the engine been
like it is now since you did the belt ???
Check the Compression and report back
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The power is the same as it was before and after the belt. I know the motor is an interference motor, so i was really particular when i put it on. So I don't think that is it. But Dont know
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where was the timing mark that
you used to time the Cam ???
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The little dot on the gear.......thats what it was suppsoed to be I hope.
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Yes, but where was it pointing ??
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It was at 12 oclock
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Good :)
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Thats what I wanted to hear. But like I said I think the exhaust is just plugged with cat guts. Gonna have to hack it up tomorrow. We will see how that goes lol Thanks for the help
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Timing should be about 10* or so,
I know it is for the 8V motor, you can
static time the engine by lining up the
star looking wheel in the disty with the
little metal sensor this will get you close
enough to be able to tell if your ignition
timing is close, if it is, you Cat is about
the only thing left.
Cat Guts huh, you got to stop feeding your
Kick that new cheap gas ;)
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the repair book says there is an "E" next to the
correct timing mark
(the one that should be at 12'O Position)
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I could hook up the timing light and see what i get with that. I don't know though. I can take a picture of where the distributor is and someone can give me their opinion. THanks Andrew
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Naw, use the light, Static timing is
good for rebuilds and new heads,
belts, etc. the light is better/easier
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Alright, so i have 2 projects tomorrow, new exhaust cat back, and ignition timing. The head was done on it when i got it. So it could be off from when it was done. Hopefully 1 of the 2 will cure my problem. Hopefully it will. Also Wild, how hard does your tranny downshift, when mine does it seems rather harsh. I would like to have something to compare to. THanks Andrew
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sounds about right, when mine downshifts, it seems
to hit like a manual shift into 2nd and then the power
comes on, I don't like it, but I've learned to live with it.
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All right, as long as its par for the course, i wont bother fixing what ain't broke. Thanks Andrew
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This Trans has been alive for 265,000 miles
and has always done this, so yours should
be fine also, change fluid every 35-40K miles
and it will live a long life, I installed a drain
plug so I don't have to drop the front driveshaft
every time I change fluid, that and I hate ATF
running down my arms and into my shirt :P
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Wow, where do you have the drainplug installed?
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in the right (passengers side) rear
of the pan, I welded a nut to the
inside after I drilled a hole, use a
copper washer so it doesn't leak, it
still runs out on the driveshaft, I
should of looked closer for a better
spot, but this was an open location
inside so the bolt can't hit the valvebody
or any other parts, your trans might be
different so look closely before drilling ;)
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Interesting....i'll have to look into it. Thanks a lot for all the help. Andrew