ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Kreg on January 10, 2004, 09:52:23 AM
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After I put my lift in a few weeks ago my truck has aquired a clunk in the drivetrain.
I first thought that it was the spacer that you put on the driveshaft that comes with the calmini kit, cuz the bolts were a little loose and when i tightened them it went away.
The cluck is back now and only seems to happen when I change from forward to reverse. (the spacer bolts are tight)
My uncle thought it might be the way the crown gear is sitting on the pinion, but i never took my diffs apart when installing the kit so I've kind of ruled that out.
Has anyone else experianced this? is it normal? how do I fix it if it aint?
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mine had a clunk somewhere, I heard it when I shifted on the highway. After I put on the 33s, I never heard it again. ???
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Have you check you "U" joints? Maby the increased angle with the new lift made a warn u-joint noisy?
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Have you check you "U" joints? Maby the increased angle with the new lift made a warn u-joint noisy?
That’s what I was thinking too. ÂÂ
From a visual standpoint they look to be fine. But I'll take them apart sometime this week and look them over carefully.
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I had one that no matter how hard I tryed, they didn't move at all on the truck. I finally took the shaft out and one end was toast.
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Keep us posted on what you find? Did you have the wheels off when you installed the lift? I've got the same issue,but it usually only happens the first time you go into drive or reverse. I have new u-joints on both ends so i'am doubting its that on mine. To me it sounds as if its only coming from the right rear in the brake drum area.
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If your brake shoes are not adjusted right they also will clunk.
The brake cylinder pushes on one side and the rotation of the tire causes the shoes to rotate untill the oppsite side hits a stationary pin. When you put it into rev. it will rotate untill it hits the pin from the other side. Just because the shoes are lock tight to the drum, it's that pin/flat spot that holds the shoes from rotation.
I know there are two pistons on the wheel cylinder. One side is for forward and the other is for reverse. It's used to wedge the brake shoes against the drum and the pin. If you ever worked on hydrolic trailer brakes you will see only one piston pushing out the front. That way when your backing up the trailer the brakes won't apply.
When the rear brakes are out of adjustment they will clang back and forth onto the pin. Also if your drums are at the end of the spects for how large they can be, this will also happen eventhough the shoes are adjusted right.
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Since you've added the lift, I'm thinking a driveline ujoint. Since you have manual hubs (front being disconnected), I'm only thinking in the rear ds. Simple enough to determine. Remove it, put t-case into 4wd hi, lock in front axle, and go for a drive.
Drive carefully and don't accelerate in tight slow speed turns.
And who knows, you may have a broken hub, keeping one of the front side axle locked with the wheel, and what you hear is the cv? I know of couple of Fords whose auto locking hubs don't disengage when suppose to and disengage when not to.
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I took my Traker for a ride once without the rear drive shaft. (Ducked taped a cup to the output so I wouldn't sling oil every where.)
What a ride! It's realy squrraly!! Be careful if you try it.
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I don't think the thump is coming from the front. It sounds like its coming from the rear end.
That brake drum issue sounds like that may be the problem, but I'll check the u-joints just incase.
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Id crank down the bolts on the rear suspension. Id bet that one of em isnt as tight as you thought. That happened to a freind of mine (who is a mechanic :-[ ) swore they were tight and 3 bolts were not very tight. They might have settled. This is why whenever we do lifts at my work we have them come back for a retorque after 500 miles.
Mike
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Id crank down the bolts on the rear suspension. Id bet that one of em isnt as tight as you thought. That happened to a freind of mine (who is a mechanic  :-[ ) swore they were tight and 3 bolts were not very tight. They might have settled. This is why whenever we do lifts at my work we have them come back for a retorque after 500 miles.
Mike
Good to know. I'll have to whip out the old torque wrench next time I'm in the shop.
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Kreg,
What size tires are you running?
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31's on 15x7 rims
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Thanks...I'm thinking of going 31's as well but was considering 2" susp and 2" body...but the 6" combo looks like the way to go.
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I had them on there when I only had the suspension lift installed.
The only problem was that the front of the rear fender came very close to the tire. And I imagine if I tried to flex the sespension it would have jammed right in.
If you are willing to trim your fenders, the 31's would fit pretty good with a 3" suspension lift.
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Then with a little trim job you can go with 35's!!
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I had them on there when I only had the suspension lift installed.
The only problem was that the front of the rear fender came very close to the tire.  And I imagine if I tried to flex the sespension it would have jammed right in.
If you are willing to trim your fenders, the 31's would fit pretty good with a 3" suspension lift.
Its not much more for the body lift as well so I'd likely go for the combo...then if I chose to I could go up to 33's without much hassle...thanks for the info
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I took my Traker for a ride once without the rear drive shaft.  (Ducked taped a cup to the output so I wouldn't sling oil every where.)
What a ride!  It's realy squrraly!!  Be careful if you try it.
In my 92 Bronco, on it's first trip with the lift several years ago, I broke the double cardon joint in the rear ds. I had to drive 2 hours home in 4-wheel front wheel drive. That's why I mentioned about the sharp slow speed turns.
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I couldn't go very far in just front wheel drive. Maby it had something to do with me not having a sway bar? I was all over the road.
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Me too. Plus the Bronco weighs some 6k#'s. 6" suspension +2" bl., on 35's. Front axle is TTB (twin traction beam) so it's a mix of straight axle and IFS.