ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Speedracer7c on January 07, 2004, 04:31:55 PM
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What is the difference in soft tops from 94-95, The ones on ebay for years up to 94 are 139 and the ones for 95 and later are 279. I was just wondering why this was. I need a new top cause someone sliced the window out of my car and didn't take anything but a bag of change. Fu**ers Andrew
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The newer model has a different mounting system but should not be that much more. I bet you are looking at different styles of top cheap- normal top w/non removable windows and the expensive one is probably the one with removable side windows.
Zig
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Your probably right but I honestly don't know. My top is falling apart at the seams now where it folds when you flip the roof back, it sucks when its windy cause the snow blows in, and the side window is duck taped together which isn't holding due to the cold, and now its so cold I can't retape it either. It sucks. Anyone have any tops for a 95 Tracker? Andrew
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That sucks dude...sorry to hear about that. Can you maybe afford a nice hard top with glass windows?
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This is an add from J.C. Whitney for 95 tracker $159.95 +shipping
Tough, durable polycotton fabric resists weathering and fading
DOT-approved untinted vinyl windows
All seams are heat-sealed
A great buy in a replacement fabric soft top that offers OEM-style quality at a much lower cost. Tailgate can be operated without removing top. Limited one-year warranty.
Just a thought  :)
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Swap to the old hardware an run the old style top. Thats what I did. I like the old style way better.
Mike
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Thats definitly a possibility, anyone know where I can get some old hardware? It would be nice!
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I like my removeable sides. With kids and a bald head I like to have just the top up. No sides, no back and no doors!!!
Anyone else run their tracker without door?
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how do you make the doors removable yet still able to put on in a min. notice?
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do tell. do tell.
I've thought about removing my doors but they don't look as easy as the Sammies..
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yes I'd love to hear about removable doors on a tracker. That would be a great spring project......
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(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0WQAfAzEb6MlvMrRA5uQg6AeADvwefW18XG6Z!7XHMXIoSdKOUYSeepfMb2TWhPC05JTVs8eg3gfrjoSl*KOt6h1bWxdYgRTQDVaNZg20J0Y86HXdbucQot3ka936olqJZfNXqySpXTk/Rocker%20Gards%20008.jpg?dc=4675453281218351717)
This is the only picture with the door off that I have at this time. I was working on my rocker gards. You can see how I painted the door jam with bed liner spray to make it look better.
I just pull the pins out of the hinge. Theres a "E" clip that holds the pins in. You have to remove that and then tap the pins out. The top of the pin will be knerald (raised metel) to help hold the pin in place so that it won't turn. I took a file and made them smooth.
Next where the "E" clip went I drilled a hole through the pin in the same spot and got removable cotter pins. So when I put the doors back on I can lock the pins in place. One of the pins goes in from the bottom so the cotter pin is a nessity for two of them.
The possible down fall is that your pins can now turn steel on steel instead of steel on the brass bushings. This could wear them out. I just make sure to keep them lubed and havent had a problem.
Remember these doors are heaver than a sammies and be ready to catch them.
I had a friend that thought I was crazy (he has a jeep). He thought it would look funny. Now every time he see me with my door off he just shakes his head and tells me how cool it looks.
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Its an old pic but heres what it looks like. We used to run with the doors off all the time. I like the way it looked. (http://www.rpm4x4.com/images/spike/tracker4.jpg )
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If you buy the sunsport in the old style the sides do zip out and the back also can be removed so you have just a bikini top remaining. 5 pieces total.
Mike
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Hey Mike, you've got the same black with red trim line paint job I have. You've also got the nasty looking orange/red seat center sections I have too. I swear if there were one thing about the interior I could change that might have to be top on the list.
I need to look for a new soft top too, the rear window cracked in a couple places a few weeks ago. One at the very base of it and the other in the upper left corner. I fixed it ghetto style with duct tape though for now. Ugly, but it works.
While we're on the subject of tops, does anybody have an Astrocap hardtop? If so how do you like it? I don't like the plastic ones like the BestTop ones since they'll warp all to hell here in Phoenix after about 1 summer. Every single one I've ever seen here looks beat to hell.
If I do get the Astrocap one I'll probably end up insulating it or something with styrofoam and laying up a new layer of fiberglass on the inside. I'd maybe look into some 1/2 or 3/4" honeycomb nomex instead so I could stand on the thing if I wanted or needed to.
Honestly, I'm half tempted to try and make a mold out of foam and build my own for the 800-1000 bucks they cost. Then I could make it out of carbon fiber and be the envy of every ricer in town too. Actually I would seriously consider Kevlar since it could be stronger and lighter than one made out of fiberglass and more importantly Kevlar's not as itchy as glass is when you're working with it.
As far as the door removal, you might also be able to use the spring loaded "T" pins with the plunger and the little detent balls that lock into place. They're not cheap but they are about as strong as an actual bolt or pin would be. They're also very high on the cool toy factor too. If you're worried about the steel on steel rubbing you could bush the holes by drilling them out a little bit and putting in some bronze sleeve bushings, call around to industrial supply places in your area to find them. If you don't have one nearby try McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com they probably won't be metric but then again the T pins probably won't be either unless you want to special order them from somewhere like Maryland Metric. I prefer metric in general but there's times when you have to give up on being a purist. (Anytime you're trying to use aircraft grade fasteners and such you have to for instance). Anyway, the bronze bushings are very inexpensive and you could either use the ones with the lip on one end by pressing them in or just the plain sleeves by epoxying them into the drilled out hole. Myself I'd opt for making the lip style bushings work.
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I actually retired that rig about 2 1/2 years ago. I gave up on the battle with rust. :'( Thats when I bought my 97 that I have now. I wanted a rust free rig. Rust can be prevented a lot easier than it can be stopped.
Mike
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Yeah I hear that, thankfully it's not a problem here in Phoenix although the original owner of my rig bought it in Michigan and it lived there for a year or two before it moved here.
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I don't have the red stripes, but I do have the red seats.
(http://www3.telus.net/kreg/Newyears%20run/Tracker%20snow.jpg)
Everyone who sees my seats say they love them. But I want to change them to the blue seats that are in the blue trackers. (Same design as the orange, but blue and black instead)
The reason being is that the blue on the seats is almost identical to the blue on the calmini kit. It would look dope if it all matched up. ;D
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Hey I've got a front bumper just like that one too.
I'm thinking about throwing a set of CRX seats that I have in there. For some reason the stock seats make my butt hurt (tailbone area) it's like they slope down at the front almost and put a lot of pressure there instead of distributing it evenly on the back of my legs etc.
Maybe mine are just worn out but I prefer the front of the seat cushion raised up more anyway since I'm tall and otherwise there's not any support on the back of my legs. I was thinking about just putting something in the front to raise the existing seats, but after sitting in the CRX seats I've got, they're definitely more comfortable overall. They also have some thigh bolsters and side bolsters too. Not that I do much hard cornering in the tracker or anything.
Just need to cut the tracker seats off the base where they're welded on and then either weld some adapter brackets on to bolt to the bottom of the Honda seats or just weld them on like the old ones were. Think I'll do the brackets though since that seems easier and it might be more convenient down the road to have the seats bolt onto the bases anyway. Only big problem with this is that they're light/dark blue upholstery. It's in good shape, but it doesn't match obviously.
Oh well guess there's always reupholstering, since the old ones are in good shape I could just pull the covers, unstich them and use the old pieces for patterns. (Hope the wife's sewing machine is up to it but I'm sure it's fine it's only heavy fabric not leather or something). That and some hog ring pliers and hog rings and I should be back in business pretty easily. I've got some textile supply places here I know of that sell automotive grade fabric pretty cheap, I bet I could probably do the job for 50 bucks if even that much.
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Hey Z3bra why dont you just buy a set of seat covers for $20 ,that way the original upholstery will still be mint when it comes time to sell.
just a thought
mark
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SELL YOUR TRUCK :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
That would be like selling you kids!!!!
Although it might be tempting. Could your really do it???
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I actually have sheepskins on there now, (they're kinda fruity but they were free so I figured what the hell).
It gets rid of the appearance but not the comfort issues. The swap's looking more and more attractive every day when I get finished with my commute home.
If I do swap the seats I will make it a reversible modification, but as long as I reupholster them so they look decent, if I did sell that probably wouldn't affect the price anyway. Given the fact it's now a 14 year old vehicle, the fact that I've lifted it and things like that, resale value's pretty well out the window other than to another 4x4 enthusiast that sees it for what it really is.
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Kreg, I have a set of the seats you are looking for. Shipping would probabally be a bitch though. I would have to look at them but I think they are in good shape. PS I think your red ones would look good in my orange rig. ;D Where are you located???
Mike
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Sounds tempting bud, but I think the shipping would kill me.
I'm up on Vancouver island in Canada.
It cost me around $600 to get my Calmini kit shipped up here. I couldnt imagine what the seats woud cost. :-/
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Kreg, i was in at maxwells auto wreckers a while ago and they had lots of tracker buckets take a look there. Maxwells is on the right hand side if you are going towards victoria, just past arbutus RV its worth a try
talk to ya later bud.
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Kreg, i was in at maxwells auto wreckers a while ago and they had lots of tracker buckets take a look there. Maxwells is on the right hand side if you are going towards victoria, just past arbutus RV its worth a try
talk to ya later bud.
Sweet I'l have to go check them out. Gotta pic up a mirror too.
(http://www3.telus.net/kreg/Zooks/smash3.jpg)
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Kreg,
Your saying it costed you $600 in shipping charges ? It only cost me $100 in shipping, and $250 in broker, and tax charges. The whole kit landed final cost in Canadian was $1750.25 which was a thousand dollars cheaper than any shop would sell it to me for taxes out.
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Shipping was $175 to the island for the lift kit, and $115 for the exhaust.
I was tempted to have them shipped to Vancouver for a bit cheaper. But by the time you tally up ferrie charges and gas to go pick them up, it wasn’t worth the trouble. (Damn BC ferries! Freaken blood-sucking vampires! >:()
I just looked through the packing slips and I realized I was exaggerating a bit.
All together for my Lift and exhaust, the total shipping and tax charges were just shy of $500 (but that’s still a good amount of coin if you ask me)