ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Mr._NSX on December 24, 2003, 04:14:27 PM
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Since my snow trip a few days ago my sidekick has had some pretty annoying problems.
1st My car serioulsy lacks power in the 2k to 3.5k rpm range. It surges when it is flored between the above rpms and has about 1/2 the power of normal. However when it hits 3.5k rpm the car takes off and starts to accelerate.
Now up till now I have replaced the clutch, plugs, and fuel filter but at this point I don't know what to do. I think it is a spark porblem for sure any info someone has would be appreciated.
2nd From time to time my car won't start, the battery is fully charged but when I push in the clutch and turn over the ignition the does nothing as if I hadn't pushed in the clutch. Has anyone else had this problem? I checked all the connections from the battery to the starter and the ignition to the starter and everything looked fine. Is there some switch that goes from the clutch to the starter sensing when the clutch is pressed and allowing the car to turnover?? >:(
Anywho it's gettin annoying havin to push start my car and not being able to pass someone if I happen to be inbetween the 2 and 3k rpm range. >:(
Thanks ;D
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There is a switch on the clutch pedel. It's a safty device that keeps a person from starting the car while in gear and runing over someone. The pedel goes up on the right side and the cable is actualy pull from over on the right side above the gas pedel. In the middle is the switch. It's almost imposable to see let alone reach.
If you suspect this switch, unplug it and connect the wires together. The car will now start without pushing in the clutch.
I know some people that do this to be able to start the vehicle in gear. On the other hand I know of some promoted trail rides that require that the switch works.
It's your call.
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You could have water in the distributer(spell check). just a little drop will make it surge. lata stu
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Well my kick has been sitting for a couple of days, It still won't start and when I push start it it still surges. I cant find any water in the dist. but even if there was some wouldn't it have dried out by now? On thing funny is that it only surgers between 2 and 3.5 K rpms and only when it warms up. I'm out of ideas anyone else got some suggestions??
Thanks
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Does it surge in those rpms even when your revving it sitting still. Does it show any kind of smoke, if so what color.
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Check the engine ground strap, this could cause all
sorts of funny goings on, and at certain RPMs the
viberation could cause a bad ground and a bad ground
won't allow the injector to open properly, see the connection??
No Pun intended ;)
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MAY NOT BE THIS BUT WORTH MENTIONING JUST IN CASE......I ONCE HAD THIS SAME THING HAPPEN TO MY MUSTANG GT IT ENDED UP BEING A BROKEN WIRE ON THE ALTERNATOR ??? ITS THE ONLY THING THAT I DIDN'T SEE YOU MENTION ABOVE SO HEY ITS WORTH A SHOT :-/ GOOD LUCK......MATTY D. 8)
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My Tracker was doing the same thing and it turned out to be plug wires. George
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Also had to replace my safty switch on the clutch pedel for the same starting problem!
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I fixed the starter, it turned out to be the ground. When I had the clutch replaced the asshat who did the work didn't ground the battery properly. But it still has no power in between 2 and 4k rpm. When it is cold it runs fine but as soon as it heats up CRAP.
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What does your ecm codes say?
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AHH I forgot, I had the same problem on an Audi
once, the rubber timing belt was loosing/missing
teeth, timing would slip and the car ran like crap.
I figured it out when all the teeth came off in one
spot and the car stopped running :P :'(
CHECK YOUR TIMING BELT, SAVE YOUR MOTOR!!
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It's not as life and death on our 1.6 as it is on an Audi or VW since the 1.6 isn't an interference design. The Audi will eat valves when a belt goes or so will many other new cars such as Hondas. Typically the higher performance the engine is, the more likely it is to eat valves if the belt goes. The tracker just leaves a mess under the timing cover and you have to call for backup or walk home and arrange a tow. Still sucks but it's a lot better than a new set of valves and ugly internal damage.
Still if it's questionable, always replace the belt. They're pretty cheap and not all that tough to replace on the 1.6 anyway.
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86' Audi 1.8L 8V = non interference, but I thought he had a 16V motor,
which is an interference motor
:o :P :'(
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Thats because the 16 valve is only a single overhead cam, meaning one cam lobe actuates 2 valves, either exhaust or intake. If the timing belt breaks on a single over head cam engine you cant have both exhause and intake valves open at this same time. With a DOHC setup when a timing belt breaks and both cams are spining wildly there is a chance that on one of the cylinders the exhause and intake valves will open at the same time and contact. In that situation you are fawked! But anyway I don't know how to read engine codes. Anyone up for giveing me the engine code 101 corse? 8)
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That might be true on some engines, but
what determines an interference/non motor
is the Combustion Chamber shape/design
and the valve angles, example, a single cam
2 valve motor like a chevy/ford looses a cam
chain or simply over revved can lunch valves,
a buddy of mine lunched a 302 Ford motor,
he thought he could rev to 9000 RPM, well his
valves springs were double, not tripple like he
thought, and unfortunatly the valves concured,
the only usable parts were 1 head, tricked out
with Chevy 2.02 intake valves, 7 con rods and
the crank, oil pump and cam/timing gear and
misc sheet metal parts.
Block was cracked and one head was junk.
:'(
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Well today I broke down a plopped 54 bucks for some new plug wires.. :( Good news is it fixed the problem. 8) The thing runs like a champ now, heh it better after a new airfilter, fuel filter, plugs, cluthc, and now wires. I'm still waiting to see how much of a mpg increase I get. With bad plugs I got about 200 miles on a tank, then 220 with new plugs and now????