ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Somer on December 31, 2003, 10:17:53 PM
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This question has probably been asked before, but I couldn't find anything in a search. Anyways, I got a free used set of BFG A/T 265/70/16 (which come out to be just under 32s). With just a 2" bodylift and some fender trimming will I be able to fit these tires? Has anyone ever tried this before?
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MY THOUGHT IS WILL A 16" WHEEL FIT A ZUKE HUB ???
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ALSO I HAVE THE CALMINI 6" COMBO WITH STOCK BUMPERS AND MY 32 -9.50'S ARE HITTING THE FRONT BUMPER COVER AT 3/4 TURN.... SO I'M THINKING NO, BUT MAYBE SOMEONE HAS TRIED IT ??? IF YOU HAVE NO' OR UPGRADED FRONT BUMPER I STILL FIND IT HARD TO BELEAVE THEY WOULD FIT..........BUT ZUKES HAVE PROVED ME WRONG BEFORE............MATTY D.
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Shouldn't he be able to find a 16" full size ford wheel that would fit the lug patten/hub theoretically?
Free is good usually but I think by the time you factor in having to buy wheels to make the tires fit it's not such a good deal really.
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I have 4.5" lift and my 31's still rub a little when turning under compression and i trimmed the bottom of my fenders behind the tires.
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ALSO I HAVE THE CALMINI 6" COMBO WITH STOCK BUMPERS AND MY 32 -9.50'S ARE HITTING THE FRONT BUMPER COVER AT 3/4 TURN.... SO I'M THINKING NO, BUT MAYBE SOMEONE HAS TRIED IT  ??? IF YOU HAVE NO' OR UPGRADED FRONT BUMPER I STILL FIND IT HARD TO BELEAVE THEY WOULD FIT..........BUT ZUKES HAVE PROVED ME WRONG BEFORE............MATTY D.
My stock bumper was one of the first things to go after I did my bodylift. As for 16" wheels, 16" is the only size which will fit on my Zuki, anything smaller and it will rub on the break caliper, which really sucks because 16" wheels are pretty rare.
I think I'll just mount one tire and see how it will go.
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OH YOU HAVE THE SPORT MODEL ZUKE AYE..I WAS NOT DOING MY HOME WORK BEFORE OPENING MY TRAP ;D GOOD LUCK HOPE IT WORKS FOR YOU....
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It been done but I heard the guy has subsequently had some diff problems. Heres some links to the Outerlimits board.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2605
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1861
Regards
Charlie
V6 Vitara
2" suspension lift
1" bodylift
225 75 16 tyres
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i'm running 34s with only a 3 in body lift. lata stu
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When I had my Calmini 2" Suspension and 3" Body, I fit 33x12.50's but had to do ALOT of trimming and also had to cut out and move the outer corners of my floor board.
You probably can do it, as long as you dont mind taking a sawsall to your truck.
Zig
(http://izook.com/features/godzuki/images/pic09.jpg)
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thats just how i fit my 34s. but i cut out the floors and moved them back wicked far. lata stu
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What all does it entail to move the floorboards back and how far did you move them back? Also how does the fornt end hold up with 33s or 34s?
Jacob
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What all does it entail to move the floorboards back and how far did you move them back? Also how does the fornt end hold up with 33s or 34s?
Jacob
To 'move' our front floor boards, we used a BFH, a welder, a sawzall, a grinder, a cutting torch and some determination.
First we pulled the interior carpet back, the pad, removed the kick panels and was sure to move the wireharness on the drivers side out of the way temporarily.
We then took off the tire and out came the plastic inner fender liner.
Then we took an angle grinder to the outer fender from just about the body trim line down to the bottom of the rocker panel about 3-4 inches in.  (just before the bolt on the bottom)
We used a torch to cut a hole in the body seam where the floor board and the inner body wall meets.
Enough to get the sawzall in there to cut up an down the seam.  We cut upwards about 8 inches (to a place just latterally to where the clutch pedal recess is) and we cut down to the bottom and backwards about 3-4 inches all along that body seam
Next out came the BFH and torch (just to heat up the metal)  We beat the heck out of the floorboards it to give clearence for the tire  to match that of the cuts we made.
We had put the tires back on drop the trucklet several times.  When it was on the ground we jumped on the front bumper to simulate full compression and check clearence we were creating.  This was repeated over and over to get it juuuuust right.
We enough room was created we then either folded the excess metal over or cut out the extra material with a grinder, sawzall and torch and welded everything backup.  What ever seemed to work best for the angles in area we were working on.
Primered, painted, undercoated the outside.  Primered, painted, and Dynomatted the inside.  Re-assembled everything.
Got room for 34s now!
Of course there are plenty of other ways to do it cleaner and nicer.  Like removing the seats and everything else in the interior up front and using new sheet metal and a box break to make new floorboards from scratch.  That would be the nice and clean way of doing it, but our use of a Big Freaking Hammer only took us about 4 hours to do both sides.  I'd think that creating new floorboards from scratch would take considerably longer. ÂÂ
Besides one can hardly tell from the outside that anything is different from stock without knowing what you are looking at.
You can see some of the photos that were taken during the process here: (they are the top 8 photos)
http://www.whitepineclub.com/members/kd7hcg/pictures/33s/index.html
The larger tires have been great. We've got 5.83s so I can't really say how they'd be with stock gears. But we can still blast down the interstate at 80+mph. It takes a little longer to get to that speed now due to the extra rotational weight and wind resistance.
The additional clearence is always nice on the trail. They float more over mud and snow then the 31s did which is both good and bad at times.
We haven't had any bearing problems or any other front end problems since they've been on, ~3 months now.
Of course it took some time to get the tire pressure just right. They were either over inflated and wandered a bunch or under inflated and got thrown around by every little rut or imperfection in the road.
Eventually we settled on about 20-23 psi for highway and about 10-12 offroad depending on cargo load.
I am a bit more fearfull of the durabilty of the stearing components now. The larger tire size seems to find and get hung up on more trail objects now. I used to be able to dodge just about any rock on the trail. Now that the tires are wider they are harder to avoid.
Since the tires are heavier I suspect that all of the front suspension components are going to take more abuse. We've driven it to Moab and trail tested everything with the 33s and everything is holding up so we'll have to wait and see what happens.
Good luck,
~Nate
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From Mike's New paint options
"Just dropped my rig off last night. Thanks for all the tips on moving the floors back. It went very smooth. I removed the coils and put the tires back on to get the full up travel effect. I used a BFH to "massage" the inner fenders back. I ended up having to cut a chunk of steel out from behind the headlights too. I bought some new fenders from Certifit for $24 and proceded to cut them up. I think they turned out pretty well. I cut the opening close and then rolled the lip over for some integrity. It looks like they are stock I think the plastic inner fenders will be able to be reinstalled. "
I like the idea of removing the springs to check for clearance.
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From Mike's New paint options
I like the idea of removing the springs to check for clearance.
That certainly would have been optimum, but I figured that my fat azz  :o, and the azzes of 3 of my fattest friends (figure 1000+lbs) jumping on the front of the truck where enough to simulate full travel. ;D  There certainly lots of ways of doing this though. ÂÂ
Fortuantely we didn't seem to need to cut away anything from the front of the fender.  Its probably due to the differences in spring choices and suspension setup.  We aren't running Calmini's 3 inch or modified A-arm mounts, we are running their 2 inch with different springs.  (I don't have that much flex :( )
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Time is always a factor. Taking out the springs realy would add time onto your project.
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Time is always a factor. Taking out the springs realy would add time onto your project.
Not really.Support frame with jack stand. Support lower arm with jack. Remove 3 bolts on the lower ball joint, pull spring, reinstall 3 bolts. less than 5 min and takes out all doubt.
Besides it removes the embarassing statments like... Hey you guys... Im looking for someone heavy enough to fully squat the suspension on my rig and I thought of you. :-[
JK!!
;D I pull that on Chunk all the time.
A common Chunk response "Are you calling me fat?!" or "Oh, so now your picking on the fat kid" ::)
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My 34s are farly forgiving on the front end. i have only blown one front end all to S#!T. but go wheeling in mud, not as hard on parts as rocks. lata stu
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Thanks for the info guys, if I can get my self to actually save some money and if I have enough I plan on doing some pretty extensive modifications to my little Kick(bigger tires,susp work, engine mods tcase mods), just gotta come up with the funds.
Jacob
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its pretty sad that money is the limiting factor for use when we are building our trackers. but I bought so of these money tree seeds and i can't wait to plant them. i'll keep you all informed on the progress. ;D lata stu
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I got the 32s fit, I think..I had to trim some of the front wheel wells, but I didn't cut in to the floor boards. Anyways, at least I can drive on the road for now. I'll have to take it off road and flex it up a little bit to see if I cut enough fender to clear the tires. After I finish I'll post some pics...Oh yeah, I was wrong in my first post the tires are 275s not 265s, so they are some pretty fat tires. I found out that they came off of a LandCruiser 80series.