ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Jdawgjayj on January 02, 2004, 09:00:52 AM
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Was out wheeling in the snow and started losing power and before we coud get back home ended up losing so much that it could be in first gear and just idle when clutch engaged.
My question is can i actually adjust it to get just a few more miles out of it to get it to a shop to be fixed?
Money is tight pressed right now (When isn't it?)
Or i might just get a Triple A membership and mooch the towing benifit instantly.
By the way how long did it take work wise for you guys to change the clutch yourself?
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IMPORTANT TO GIVE TYPE OF ZUKE YOUR DRIVING FOR ACCURATE ADVICE........ ::)
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That probably would be good. Its a '93 4 dr. 16 valve.
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When you say "losing power" do you mean the motor is losing power or does the motor rev up and slip the clutch?
Later,
Bill
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If you have access to a garage just buy a clutch kit and change it yourslef.
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Could be the cable...........I recall these rigs have cable actuated clutches and my buddys tracker was whacked to the point he couldn';t shift. Of course, he kept on driving it (spent his $$ on beer) until he busted the tranny.
Then it was 1. clutch cable 2. Clutch, 3. Tranny
and a lot of money for him and none left for beer.
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Ya when I bought my tracker the clutch was pretty hacked on it too. (or so I thought)
So I ordered up a new clutch and cable. With Mac's advice I changed the cable first to see if that was the problem, instead of ripping everything apart to replace a clutch that didn’t need replacing.
When the new cable was installed she ran as good as new. Its one year later and I still have the brand new clutch sitting in my bedroom.
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One thing to remember is that RPM's are a clutch's worst enemy. If you are able to keep the rpms down it'll save it a lot. As dumb as it may sound, whenever it snows out I even use 4 wheel low just to get out of my driveway, then again, I have a fairly steep driveway, but I can take off at an idle and keep control. Oh well, just my .02 cents. ;D
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yes the clutch, i hate it...i spent over 350 dollars to have the cable and clutch replaced as i could not shift and it would slip out of gear and rev up...a new cable and clutch later it worked like a dream...month later guess what same problem...this time i checked it out and saw that the cable could have gotten mud and water into it... a can of wd-40 and i was good as new! come to find out later the shop i took it to did not even change the clutch all they did was replace the cable if they even did that!! right now im in the process of sueing them damn:-X people
SHOULD HAVE DONE IT MYSELF!!!! >:(
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If i could i would just change it myself. I'm toatally lacking in the mechanical knowledge area. I can envision creating something. But working on a car i'm just nervous i'm going to mess up something that will cost more and then ruin my only ride.
The motor is in great condition. Its just slipping terribly. I'll have to check the cable then first. I've been unemployed only pulling in 175 a week.
I would gladly save the money and get the better quality if i could do it myself. But.. i'm just too uneducated. I learned how to change my oil, brakes and some simple hoses and stuff... but internal work is scarey to me. If i had a knowledgeable friend looking over my work to reasure me that would be good.
Haynes manual doesn't really show the cable in there. They show the switch and stuff. Its so broad based its silly. chilton was kinda the same. The BIG book was neat but spendy.
When I have time hopefully this summer i'm going to do the 6 inch combo.
So does the cable go strait downto the clutch? or does it take a weird route to the engine then over to the clutch. I'm just kinda curious of the path so i know where to look.
Thank's for your advice its very apreciated just may have saved me a bunch of money.
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The clutch cable attaches to the bottom passenger side of the bell housing with an adjuster nut and a lock nut. Use two pair of pliers, one to hold the adjuster nut and the other to loosten the lock nut. Remove  both of these and slide cable out of the arm. Once the cable is loose it will be easy to follow up to the fire wall where it is attached by two bolts. Remove the two bolts. Then reach inside the truck and remove the 'hook' on the cable end and completely remove the cable from the truck. You should be able to hold the cable housing and freely move the cable inside the housing, if not clean and lube it good and see if it frees it up, or just get you another one. If you reverse the process above you can easily re-install the cable.
Pay attention to the position that the adjuster holds the arm on the side of the bell housing when you remove it and when re-installing it just adjust the nut to hold the are at about the same location.
Zig
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Has anyone else had problems with their clutch cable and the Calimini header?
The stocker exhaust manifold has a ton us heet shelds on it. Mine cracked so I got the header.
The clutch cable is held together by the plastic coating on the out side. I've melted 2 of mine. I went to puch on the clutch and the cable gives instead of disengaging the clutch.
I finially fixed it by winding that section tight with wirer on the out side. Have had no problem sence.
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Thanks a lot! that really helped. Nice and descriptive. There needs to be a book that good. I just wish things were descriptive.
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Hey Jdawgjayj this is Shultz. What did ya do let Wildcat get the best of ya? If you do have to replace the clutch take a look a Centerforce clutch. I have heard good thinks about them. My dad has on in his V-8 Heep. How it works out.
Jacob
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Yeah i recognized from the Weather man sucks post. Yeah i'm looking at those. If i can get a place to do it. Actually i burned it up at Road 27 up In Rhody. the 3rd time going. I kept up with that Ford though. Made it up to where he did easy without any lifts.
Passed lifted yoda's too.
But once this problem is fixed it'll be figured out.
I'm going to do much more wheeling. Dont' get winters like this much.
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If you have to take to a shop to get it fixed, talk to Bills Automotive by Shortys Corner. He does good work, that where I take all my rigs.
Jacob
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I would pull the adjuster all the way off start the veh in nuetral warm it up,shut it off and start it in gear and give it some gas and see if it slips? I run a petrowork's puk type clutch in mine you might be able to get by with just the disk if you switch over to that type. you will prob. have to open it up and look :-/ there not that hard to do the stuff is light weight easy to lift if you don't have a transjack but you can rent what you need we have a shucks here and they rent or loan the tools you need and the guy's at the auto parts might stop by to help you put the pressure plate back on for a few buck's.