ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: lil_Truck on December 27, 2003, 11:08:49 PM
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I have the 3" Calimini body lift. I thought it was a wast to have that big gap between the body and the frame.
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I noticed that the frame was basicly a rectangel tubing welded to two suspention loops at either end. Unlike other "C" channel harden frames, I should be able to cut the welds, reposition the frame and reweld it.
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First I had to support the truck without using the frame for support. I learned the hard way that the rocker rails are not strong enoff to suppor the weith of the truck, unlike the front wheel drive cars I'm us to working on.
I found under body rails were able to hold the weight.
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I also used other jacks to support the front and rear suspensions.
At this point I made drawings of all the front and rear suspenstion loop and made measurments from the loops to the body and marked them down. That what way when it came time to put the frame back together all the suspention parts would be in the right spot.
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Next I just took a die grinder and a rubber wheel and cut out al the welds.
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0cgDcAkwjhw4qCtznC9WbiJ8z5NuQtQIid1S951LQK1ob8hCtScHBcSOMptDXBfQFG3TbU9lg04E3xz81lXJrq9OyimHLE5BoUCctfhGsWflnu5X1PfKb6bmGsVkB8oaaqsZKkA2crFhQjgKSZUlZLpsCETDx7slIHhdoR4dCPsY/Tracker%20Frame%20Recomstruction%202003%20007.jpg?dc=4675453113281147259)
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When I had the frame out I ground off the remaining welds, welded up any additional holes I happened to put in at the time I was cutting it out.
While the frame was out I moved the rear suspention support. I have the Calimini 3" suspention lift and with the frame 3" higher the control arm angle will be way off. So I decied to increase the arm length 12". So I moved the support ahead 12"
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0cgANA0ojAA4qCtznC9WbiJ8z5NuQtQIid1S951LQK1ob8hCtScHBcSOMptDXBfQFQpwLvlo5KwGKs0jCjxuDV1GmZSujCBJFNo8UyJ7nQQXJqZI40aH5llSWUhTpCFirr4H!iSqzJtCZczcMJS*EN3CN9VcmdccalrYEP3!KhkE/Tracker%20Frame%20Recomstruction%202003%20014.jpg?dc=4675453113300115107)
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To move the support I cut it off close to the frame. I then got a piece of tubing that the support slid into. I drilled a bunch of holes into the tubing to weld the support to and then also welded around the end. I then took a hole saw and cut a hold into the frame. Positioned the bracket and welded it to the frame. You can see this in the last picture.
Because the Calimini lower contral arm has that nice bend in it, when it's fully compressed it is straight with the frame. So I just extended the arm 12" also.
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0cgAAAEcjNQ0qCtznC9WbiJ8z5NuQtQIid1S951LQK1ob8hCtScHBcSOMptDXBfQFgPh9nR*CPAaJAPWPo9I2o4F5sGGISqO6TmpAt1bGQCCWGiThr3gl5EeTJAGzBFkBurAHUfBl2QJh9RjQQnJxMyiNB01LvLtD39j0acatwhY/Tracker%20Frame%20Recomstruction%202003%20020.jpg?dc=4675453113317140675)
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If you look close enoff you can see I used a inner sleave to weld the extention to the lower control arm.
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0VgAdA*UYRRGtIU!90WIVp*P4onJ50YVgcLQOc0FaJ8FYOhGo6x5yEGVpzIqwbP627EATMhskBY3T0fnyeSfLhG4ODwYfWd8gfsYstfxnYuR5b*8AbMlJbdUGYl*YLDKC/May,%202003%20012.jpg?dc=4675453056910932723)
You can see it cented the wheel just right.
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When you go to remove one side of the frame, there is one cross over. I decied to cut that and reweld it back together later. The one half of the frame held it's half together and gave me a good visual to look at if I needed it.
When I can time to weld it back together I also did the tubing inside tubing thing for added support.
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I then made a carb board templete of the front and rear loop ends. Cut them up 3", and transfered the lines the the loops. Cut them with my die grinder. I then fitted the frame making sure the measurements I made before were the same. But on the origanal body mounts and welded the frame back together.
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With the frame back in place I needed to work on the position on the power train.
The trans mound is now in the stock position to the body so now I needed to raise the motor. The motor mount bolts go straight down. There's 3 of them. I welded three (1"x3") x3" together. This gave me a 3 x 3 block. Got longer bolts, ran the bolts through the blocks and tighten them down. After all was tightened I tacked welded the blocks to the frame so that vibration wouldn't move them around.
Next I raised the radiatior supports 3". I once again used 1x3" blocks to do this. The radiator is just supported at the bottom by the frame. I cut the supports and welded in extentions.
Last I needed a longer drive shaft. I happened to have a 2wd drive shaft laying around. So I made my measurements and cut it down to size and welded it back together.
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This has been a great mod for me. All the shifters are back to where there supost to be, and the clearance is great!!!
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0XQAYA1IbcOR8j3jx1Is5MXsPJQ9W2n4r!MzixXUL2BueySoyqeGkEMwU!YwU1k0by0eqhW6hjZGlbA7E0MsyPuNBk95PdQoX0wrOhWe7HBVCckqFzko7Ar0JQoHQIYJxRqNkyZdTx4E/Sand-O-Rama%202003%20003.jpg?dc=4675453056913466753)
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Very nice work there lil_Truck, it is nice to see some one go thru the hard work of making there rig better than it was before, It probely handles better now on the road with the body lift blocks out of there too. It looks good now with out that frame hanging down from the body.
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Very , very hot!
But what happen with law??
it's not supose to be illegal to weld a frame?
And what happen with the break and gaz line inside of the frame on passager side?
Fredo
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I was supprised with the gas and brake lines. I pulled them off before removing the frame and after I was done it took just a little tweaking of the lines to line up to their origional spots.
As for the law, It takes some explaning what I have done for someone to see it. It looks stock and if I posted pictures know with the paint scratched and dirt/mud on the frame most wouldn't spot it. Also most people I know with 35's or better (mostly Jeeps) would never pass 1/2 the laws out there.
Second, as I said earlyer, you can't weld on most frames. Most are made with a harden frame and if you weld on it, it will break at the weld. That's why all the aftermarket parts like running boards and such are bolt-ons and not welded.
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impressive work but those 'flame' stickers got to go! ;D
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To move the support I cut it off close to the frame.  I then got a piece of tubing that the support slid into.  I drilled a bunch of holes into the tubing to weld the support to and then also welded around the end.  I then took a hole saw and cut a hold into the frame.  Positioned the bracket and welded it to the frame.  You can see this in the last picture.
Because the Calimini lower contral arm has that nice bend in it, when it's fully compressed it is straight with the frame.  So I just extended the arm 12" also.
([url]http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0cgAAAEcjNQ0qCtznC9WbiJ8z5NuQtQIid1S951LQK1ob8hCtScHBcSOMptDXBfQFgPh9nR[/url]*CPAaJAPWPo9I2o4F5sGGISqO6TmpAt1bGQCCWGiThr3gl5EeTJAGzBFkBurAHUfBl2QJh9RjQQnJxMyiNB01LvLtD39j0acatwhY/Tracker%20Frame%20Recomstruction%202003%20020.jpg?dc=4675453113317140675)
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If you look close enoff you can see I used a inner sleave to weld the extention to the lower control arm.
([url]http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0VgAdA[/url]*UYRRGtIU!90WIVp*P4onJ50YVgcLQOc0FaJ8FYOhGo6x5yEGVpzIqwbP627EATMhskBY3T0fnyeSfLhG4ODwYfWd8gfsYstfxnYuR5b*8AbMlJbdUGYl*YLDKC/May,%202003%20012.jpg?dc=4675453056910932723)
You can see it cented the wheel just right.
Did you extend the upper control arm (Y-link) as well?
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As of now, no the upper are the same length.  A friend of mine here in Michigan did his own home made lift, (Jim Marzzola) a 9" suspention lift.
http://www.izook.com/tech/tracker/lift/tracker9inch.htm
And he was ok with a longer lower with a stock upper.  But in my future is a different rear (maby a mickey 9er?)  and a better 3-4 link set up.
I ran it all year and had no trouble with rear stear that I noticed beond the original set up.
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The flames were on the truck when I bought it and my wife loves them.
Keep the wife happy and the Trackers happy. Besides I like to stand out. That's why I have a Tracker and not a everybody has one Jeep.
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It's very close to an 6" suspension lift hehe! in the midle of the tracker but not in both ends. gaz tank lift???
My father say: You can't drive it on the road anymore!
Fredo
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Great Job!
This mod is EXACTLY what I looked at doing to the 4 door this last summer. We ran out of time and energy though, maybe next summer.
You should form a more complete/formal write-up and see if Eric will put it with the other write-ups.
Truely awesome,
~Nate
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beat me to it. o well i still got one mod that none of you (i think) have yet. anyway it looks bad ass. i can't wait till i finsh mine at the end of the week. a few ???. what did you do about the exhaust and how long did it take you? lata stu
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Wow and really 'out of the box' thinking. Isn't this considered the opposite of 'channeling' a low rider? LOL
Was the welding an arc or mig?
When doing this work, and while you were debating about the whole thinking, what were your options or other ideas?
Thought about raising just the body frame mounts and removing the body lift blocks? Some full-size Ford friends have done this as it makes room for the 44's with minimal lift on the front cab mount.
Did you think about removing the body lift, then lowering the suspension mounts with custom bracketry and lowering the spring mounts?
Lastly, are the most front and rear body mounts still with the body lift blocks?
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Forgot to add, is that some sort of rock skid on your rockers?
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You should form a more complete/formal write-up and see if Eric will put it with the other write-ups.
Truely awesome,
~Nate
Yep, this is a good idea that needs further exposure and exploration. There have been a lot of good ideas put up on this forum.
-Eric
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Chunk and I have debated over this mod for over a year now. It ended up being that we just didnt trust our welds as much as Suzuki :-[ We were also afraid that it might feel more tippy. How does it feel with the motor higher? I also did a long arm rear but I went up to the next hole in the frame. I love it. I also left the upper alone. LIL TRUCK, Did I meet you at the melt 2 years ago?
Mike
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The Ideal pivot point for the trailing arms would be
right at the same spot the output of the trans is,
both hight and length, if you know what I mean.
This keeps the drive shaft from needing to slip
in and out of the trans, or if SYE (slip yoke eliminated)
the drive shafts slip splines.
Dirt Bikes use this type of idea to keep the chain from
getting tight on the compression part of the suspension
cycle.
Problem might be long arms get bent on rocks tho.
WOOHOO 500 Posts !!!
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i wouldnt tell calmini u altered there product =) they are super anal about that( totaly understood about them being anal)
just be careful =) when ur rock crawing now..i remember i read somewhere someone said..when i go bigger i wotn get stuck other guy replied..when u go bigger u will get stuck easier because u think u are to big to get stuck =) lol
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Hi Mike, and yes we did meet at Zooki Melt a couple years ago. I saw you last year but never made it over to say hi.
It doesn't feel any tippier than before I did the work. The motor and trany is so light that a 3" raise didn't change the CG (center of gravety) at all or very much. Also I don't run with a sway bar so I should if it added any I really would have noticed.
I know what you mean about trusting your welds. I started out with Dune Buggys and built my own buggy from the ground up. Bent most of the tubing and did all the welding myself. 10 years of hard abuse (As much time in the air as Mikes rig for sure), it's still holding together!!
Anyways the welds are long and a lot of area so I've not worried about them at all. I only have a 110 mig welder and it does a great job on stuff like this.
Beleave it or not the frame work was the easy part. It took me two days (by myself) to cut the frame out, rework it and weld it back into place. It took about another week or so of work to do the rest.
Little stuff like the exhaust. Lifting the motor and frame brought most of the exhaust into line. The tail piece which was only a year old of course didn't fit right. I cut it off with a little sticking out of the muffler and again between the two major bends. I then got 2 $1.5 exhaust pieces, slid the pieces together with them. Aligned the tail piece where I needed it and rewelded it into place.
The front and rear section of the frame still has the Calimini 3" body lift on it.
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Yea, I also have some custom rocker gards!!
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Wow, you did a phenominal job!! I was ready for you to say that this took 2 months or something ;D You did a real clean factory looking job too like you said, after a little mud and dirt, you'd never know. Looks real good, Dave
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Besides I like to stand out.  That's why I have a Tracker and not a everybody has one Jeep.
THIS IS WHY I LOVE MY ZUKE AS WELL...MY OLDER BROTHER WAS ALLWAYS TRYING TO SELL ME ON A JEEP..BUT AROUND HERE EVERYONE HAS A HEEP ...BUT IN A ZUKE PEOPLE ARE CURIOUS TO ASK QUESTIONS ;D