ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: squeaky on August 29, 2003, 08:50:36 AM
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I have almost 140k miles on my '93 kick. When should I start worrying or thinkin about a rebuild? (or replace) I read in the "project turbo sidekick" thread that Darrin didn't rebuild that one until 250,000mi! Is that the rule or the exception? Just a quick question. Thanks all! Bye. ;)
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One of our local 2dr Kick owners with a 1.6 8v motor, lasted until 230K, then the timing key on the crank died.
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I have 270,000 on my 91 Tracker. I do all my maintenance but drive it real hard. I just checked my compression about a week ago and I have 3 holes at 160 and one at 165. ;D
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WOW! I had no idea. I knew suzukis were reliable and great cars and all that and I've never had any problems with mine...but WOW! I'm impressed. So as long as I do my maintinence I geuss I have nothing to fear then! Yay! I am so excited now. I'm off on the wrong foot though. I just learned that my dad hasn't changed my oil in over 7,000mi. I checked it today and it was so low it didn't even show on the dipstick! I'm changin it myself first thing in the morning! Thanks AGAIN guys!
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Definitely a big key thing is to keep your oil clean, I always change mine |removethispart|@ 3,000 miles, and I drive a lot. I just always used Castrol Dino juice, although others prefer Mobil One synthetic, but anywho, don't let it get low, and keep it clean, and you'll be posting with these other guys about having 250,000 miles!!! ;D
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My Zuk motor is about to turn over either 200k or 300k (don't know which since the title just says "odometer exceeds mechanical limits") and I'm not the first owner. I had to install a new head when I got it (odometer read 93k) because someone had overheated it and warped the head, but other than that it still runs fine. Uses a little oil, but it just keeps on chugging. If they are properly maintained, they will last a looooonnnnnggg time
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Forever ;D :P 8) :o
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Mobil 1 is good. I use Valvoline Max Life with a filter change every 3K miles. What little oil I leaked was stopped by the oil itself and new gaskets for the cam cover and distributor mount. I can park my car in the apartment complex parking lot for a week and see no - that's NO - leaks under it. The underside and the engine are clean and dry. Not bad for 130k miles.
Don, y'all
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My 93 only has 114K on the clock and its dryer then a popcorn fart(i love my dads dumb jokes).  i didn't know they lasted that long.  i guess i'll be waiting whlie  for that .040 over kit from Calmini. lol. well ttyl bye
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i gotta find out what you guys are doing.....
kuz im going thru a motor about every 14 months.....
the rings and clyender walls go away , low comp then i
go to the next motor ........
the one in line is a g 13 b out of a swift its actualy tight
im hoping it will last a couple years but i dont know???????? ???
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I want to know what your doing :o I have 3 Zuk's, all have the 1.6 ranging from 98K to 200K, and the 98K is my 1000 mile/week daily driver at 80mph+. I havent touched the guts on any of them and my 200K engine is still running strong. 8)
Zig
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Dude, your a motor killer, try changing the thermostat
to a 170 or 160 degree, and use a good small engine oil
Castrol or Mobil 1, I go to Costco and get the Chevron
5-30 Winter, 10-30 Mild Weather and 20-50 Hot Weather.
The #1 thing I have found for long engine life, other than
keeping the oil clean and full is let it warm up, don't drive
an ice cold engine, give it 2 or 3 min to warm, it's not hot
yet but the oil is warming and flowing to all the parts, if
you can stand to give it 5 Min all the better, if you must
drive it cold, go real easy no full throttle, just barly press
to get going.
I knew a girl in high school, many moons ago, who got
a new car for her 16th birthday. We had an open campus
so at breaks or lunch we would go to buy somthing, well
she would rev the S*i+ out of that poor car from a cold
start and drive the P*55 out of it, by the end of the
school year it was blowing oil smoke all over the place,
I learned my lesson at her expence, and saved many $$
in longlived engines. :)
Change oil every 5000 Miles !!, it is easy to keep track of
so you don't have to remember your mileage, change the
filter every time. Remember Motor oil is the most tested
fluid on the earth, and oil of 10 Years ago is nothing like
the new stuff, it is so much better just in 10 years.
I drive a Semi, standard oil change is at 10,000 Mi, some
companies have gone to 30,000 Mi, testing every 10K mi
and have found the oil is good for more miles than they
were getting out of it. In the case of a big truck, service
costs $500 so you can see the savings right away, I don't
reccomend going that long in your little cars, as $20 per
change is not too hard to afford.
Hope This Helps,
Darrin
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i gotta find out what you guys are doing.....
kuz im going thru a motor about every 14 months.....
the rings and clyender walls go away , low comp then i
go to the next motor ........
the one in line is a g 13 b out of a swift its actualy tight
im hoping it will last a couple years but i dont know???????? ???
Are you changing the oil every 3-5K miles? What weight are you running?
try changing the thermostat
to a 170 or 160 degree, and use a good small engine oil . . . and 20-50 Hot Weather
You will be killing one soon too. Those are two of the worst things you could possibly do to it. With the tight clearences and high revs of these engines, any oil with the second number bigger than 30 is not lubricating it properly and will dramatically shorten the life of the engine.
The tiny clearences and precision parts in an engine are also machined assuming you are running the correct thermostat. When the engine runs to cold, it's running outside of specs, and will weat quicker. The effects of running it too cold can be just as bad as too hot.
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If you're running full synthetic I'd even suggest going with a 5w30 or even 0w30, flows good cold and since it's synthetic it's still good at high temps despite being only 30w.
The truck engines as Wildgoody mentioned run a long time but that's typical of diesel engines in general. True when you drain the oil it's blacker than black from the carbon in it, but diesels are amazingly long wearing just from the way the diesel engine works vs the gasoline engine.
Also don't forget to use a good oil filter as well as changing it every 3-5k with the oil change.
I forget the website but on it the guy dissects a whole bunch of oil filters of varying brands and compares the construction. The website is a mopar enthusiast site just do a search on google and you should be able to find it. After looking at the way various filters are put together, I'll never use a Fram filter on anything again. The Mobil 1 filters are really nice but at 10 bucks each they're a bit steep. The Bosch, Napa Gold/Napa Silver are also pretty good for being a bit cheaper, but seriously do not use the Fram filters they are just craptastic all around.
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Agreed......NAPA filters are good. Never use Fram unless you want to keep your engine rebuilder in business. 8)
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I installed a dry oil sump pump on my engine and I use 20W-50 Amsoil Synthetic. I don't see why a person can't install the same system on their rig even if it's not for the rigors of off roading. I aim to squeeze all the life out of the engine Hugh Reynolds built for me especially since it cost 45 hundred to build. Should you be interested in going with a dry sump send me an IM . ;D
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In reguards to Mr. dschwab9's post, your points are understood.
What area of the country do you live in ? and what do you do when
your oil is so hot that at idle the oil light comes on??
with summer temps here hitting 110F almost daily and in the deserts
hitting 120s the heavier oil is what I need.
Mind you I have run the 160F thermostat since the the kick was
a youngin at about 17,000 miles, and have better then followed the
factory service intervals on oil changes of 7500 miles, let the engine
warm a few minutes before running it hard, and now I learn I cut
my engines life short at 250,000 miles, darn guess I screwed up :P
The important # in motor oil is the first 5-xx this is the flowability
at cold start temps, mind you multi-weight motor oil was designed for
your wife. Start car, 3 seconds, car is in reverse, 6 seconds going 40 MPH
running late for kids to school or going to work, by the 30 second mark
she has hit the freeway, water temp is now a warm 80 degrees and if you
ran straight 30 weight oil metal shavings are merrily working their way to the
oil pan and into the filter from lack of "flow" or volume if you will.
The "tight" tollerances of an engine are in a constant state of change or wear,
altho we hope this is a slow process, the slower the longer the engine will in theory
wear, some wear longer that others, and after the millions of cycles an engine
goes through, in the years of service, many factors pop up, length of each
trip, over all engine temps, hot weather, cold weather starts, road conditions
dust from wheeling, overall average speed (lots of low range driving) :)
where do I stop, factors all combine over years of service to equal engine
life, no telling how long an engine will last, as these factors are the final
descision makers, we on the other hand need to help these factors be
more favorable to our engines.
Motor oil has the same "thickness" by thickness I mean the physical
size of the oil molecules, don't belive me, use a good micrometer and
measure some different weights, oil has thickness, and is like little
ball bearings in the engine, it keeps one part just away from the next part
to prevent wear, the vescosity (weight) is the factor that determins how
it will flow at a specific temp. 50 weight at 30F is some thick stuff, but
get it hot as in a raceing engine and it provides the nessisary cushon
between high speed moving parts, I don't recommend 50 single weight
oil for a daily driver, as it requires special attention in a cold engine, but
it does have it's place in the lubrication world. Like I said 20-50 HOT!! Weather
,not daily, daily I run 5-30, for the most part, but when the oil is so hot the
cushon goes away, and the low oil light is on at idle, I go thicker.
After all the cushon is gone at such low pressure and it is the flow rate
that keeps the little "ball bearings" in place to protect your engine, like
a wheel bearing race, no race, bearings fall out, metal to metal contact
begins, OK the horse is dead now so I'll stop typing... in a minute,
Bottom line, do what ever you heart want's to, this is America, and if I
want to run 20-50 in the summer it's my God given right golldarn it!!! :o
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Well, in my Zuk 1.3, I run 20W50 year round because I have to fill it with oil and check the gas once a week if I run anything thinner  ::).  This thing eats oil like crazy.  The cylinder walls and the rings are pretty well shot.  The head is a fresh rebuild, so I know the valve seats are ok.  Whomever had the Zuk before I got it obviously didn't do much motor maintenance, and it eats oil like crazy.  One of these days I'll get around to putting a 1.6 in the buggy.....Until then, I'll keep feeding the beast dino fluid.
A lot of your oil choice will be driven by the condition of the motor.  If you have a newer motor in good condition, run what the manufacturer suggests for oil viscosity.  If you have an older motor that has worn, you may need to go to a heavier viscosity to make up for the wear, and to slow down oil consumption.
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Yes, I forgot to include the worn motors,
I thought about it , but forgot to include
that factor in the motor oil equasion. ::)
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I had ~130k on my 1.6L8v when the #4 cyl was only getting 35psi compression. I did a full rebuild with .020" bore, Cam, decked head and block and it runs great now. I hope it outlasts its last lifespan.
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How a rig is driven I would think is a big factor too. I run redline for hours and hours every weekend. How many revolutions does that poor little motor go on average per mile? For this reason I change my oil every 2000 miles. As far as reliability, Ive never owned anything so relentless.
8)
Mike
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I own an 84 SJ10 with a 1.0 that has 88k. I change oil like the sticker under the hood suggests, 6000 mi and 10w40. I have put 16k on since I bought off EBAY less than a year ago. I drive it with my foot to the floor and it never lets me down, except for the #1 plug popping out every 4000 miles because the guy before me used the wrong plug. I have noticed more oil around the head gasket and valve cover gasket lately. Is this because I am using the wrong oil? I really would like to know what oil to use since I plan to keep it stock and not go up to the 1.6 or any other engine. And thanks for the info on Fram; it was a little late. Any info would be great. Brace
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Yeah, I just found out about Fram's recently too. I'll be changing it out on the wifes car and Tracker next oil change(should be in about a week unless the Hurricane stops me :o. As far as oil goes, it sounds like you rig was babied (meaning not driven a lot of miles) and now your driving it regularly. Someimtes when you change a trucks driving habits it starts to leak some. I had an 84 Chevy pickup with a strait six, bought it in 94 with only 14,000 original miles on it, it was so clean under the hood that you could literally eat off the motor (that is if you're inclined to do that sort of thing ::)) After about a year I noticed the valve cover and other things leaking oil, it's perfectly normal. Now I know you're folowing the manufacturers recomendations here with the 6,000 miles rule, but if I were you (now don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to open a can of worms here) I'd change your oil a lot sooner, like every 3,000 miles instead, that little four banger is working very hard, and it's very cheap preventative maintenence. As far as weight goes, I'm sure there are other suggestions like you've already seen here, I personally have used 20-50 dino juice in my wifes 94 Escort (it used to have a lifter tap in the morning when you'd first start it up but with the thicker oil it has gone away) and I used it in my 90 Trooper 2.6 four cylinder (it had 165,000 miles on it and held up really really well). But I think 10-40 is a good weight for your lower milage engine. Besides, I don't know much about older Zuk enignes, maybey the ports are smaller and you need a thinner oil to get around in there. I'm sure somebody out there can help a little more than me, I'm kinda new around here ;D Hope it all works out for you, Dave
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Good points all!
Mike Hagen, ponytail and all ;D: His statement here is a testament to the toughness of these engines. A co worker cranked his tracker to 170K on it and it still goes. True its had some work, but that little bugger motor just keeps going and going. It impresses me more and more each day. Which is why I got its bigger brother, the Vitara!
trackinstile.: Good call on Fram. Stay away from them like you would the plague.
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I forgot to note one important thing in
regards to my rebuild, I didn't bore the
engine and go oversize, I just honed the
cylinders, and turned the crank, so I have
new rings and bearings, and a valve job
to put in the SS exhaust valves, and now
the motor runs great and is turbocharged!!
Another testiment to the durability
of the Zuke Motor !! :o
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I just did the .030 overs when I rebuilt to try and squeeze a bit more displacement/compression out of the engine. 80HP with an auto tranny leaves a bit to be desired for highway driving.
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Yeah, I'm changing the oil in the Tracker today, I'm probably going to go with a Purolater Pure One, there was a report on the web floating around somewhere I found and after reading it (hey, maybey it was here ;D) they mention Fram at the botom of their list, but Purolater's were pretty good, they were'nt thrilled with the piece of sting wrapped around the filter element, but everything else is ok Hey Samarai Hamster, and the rest of you, what kind of filter do you use??? Just wondering, thanks, ;D Dave
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I use two types, depending on which one I can get. Most of the time, I use NAPA/WIX 51396 this is the NAPA gold and they are made by wix filters. Because they aren't in the big box discount stores competing with the trash made overseas, WIX does not have to build them to a price. Fram used to be this way, then they went big box waldo world and now rank as one of, if not, the worst filter ever made.
WHen I am unable to secure a WIX filter, I use Purolator filter. Forgot the number for my rig but I have had tremendous success with these filters in years past. I just think the WIX is a tad better, but not by leaps and bounds.
Speaking of oil change, just had mine done, back was sore so I took it to the garage and had six qts of Mobil 1 I go to get the rig and there is one full qt plus almost another full quart in my box! Glad they were there, but WTF???? The manual speciifcaly states, 5.5 qts to fill when changing oil and filter. Immediately, I popped the hood and proceed to dump the rest of the open qt plus half of the other qt to make sure I had 5.5 in there.
ANd this was the zuki dealer where I bought my rig.......tsk tsk tsk...........that does not make me happy at all.
???.........
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I use Wix also. Air and oil. If you hold a fram air filter in one hand and a Wix in the other the quaility is clear. The Wix flows better also. This is one of these things, Pay now or pay more later.
Mike
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???Are you able to get the Pure one filter? Or just the regular Purolater filter? Thanks, Dave ;D
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The Bosch and Deutsch ones from Autozone are also made by Wix if you can't find a real wix.
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Last time I checked, those were made by Champion labs out of Illinois. Maybe they switched? ::)
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I found a Pure One filter from Purolater, Advance auto parts have it, just not the one in my town, I have to drive a little bit over, but at least they make it. If I don't use this one next time, I'm probably going to try to locate a Wix filter. ;D
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i gotta find out what you guys are doing.....
kuz im going thru a motor about every 14 months.....
the rings and clyender walls go away , low comp then i
go to the next motor ........
the one in line is a g 13 b out of a swift its actualy tight
im hoping it will last a couple years but i dont know???????? ???
you DO know that when the engine is new you have to break it in, right?
keep it under 5000rpms the first 500 miles or so...
the guy doing the rebuild should tell you this in fact
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did you look at the last date on the thread? it's 5 1/2 years old >:D
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... don't forget to use a good oil filter as well as changing it every 3-5k with the oil change. I forget the website but on it the guy dissects a whole bunch of oil filters of varying brands and compares the construction. .... After looking at the way various filters are put together, I'll never use a Fram filter on anything again. The Mobil 1 filters are really nice but at 10 bucks each they're a bit steep. The Bosch, Napa Gold/Napa Silver are also pretty good for being a bit cheaper, but seriously do not use the Fram filters they are just craptastic all around.
This oil filter site will open your eyes!
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/index.html
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I use two types, depending on which one I can get. Most of the time, I use NAPA/WIX 51396 this is the NAPA gold and they are made by wix filters. Because they aren't in the big box discount stores competing with the trash made overseas, WIX does not have to build them to a price. Fram used to be this way, then they went big box waldo world and now rank as one of, if not, the worst filter ever made.
WHen I am unable to secure a WIX filter, I use Purolator filter. Forgot the number for my rig but I have had tremendous success with these filters in years past. I just think the WIX is a tad better, but not by leaps and bounds.
Speaking of oil change, just had mine done, back was sore so I took it to the garage and had six qts of Mobil 1 I go to get the rig and there is one full qt plus almost another full quart in my box! Glad they were there, but WTF???? The manual speciifcaly states, 5.5 qts to fill when changing oil and filter. Immediately, I popped the hood and proceed to dump the rest of the open qt plus half of the other qt to make sure I had 5.5 in there.
ANd this was the zuki dealer where I bought my rig.......tsk tsk tsk...........that does not make me happy at all.
???.........
What Zuk motor holds 5.5 quarts of oil??? 4.5 and a bit is full on mine.
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What Zuk motor holds 5.5 quarts of oil??? 4.5 and a bit is full on mine.
V6. Actually, I think it's 5.5 liters (5.8 quarts).
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Waht does whitish blueish smoke mean when I start up my kick? Do I need to start worrying about a new engine?
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Waht does whitish blueish smoke mean when I start up my kick? Do I need to start worrying about a new engine?
You might consider starting a new thread for that question.
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It usually means the rings are going out. You can try pouring some anti-smoke oil treatment in there and see what happens. Not like it's going to hurt the motor. :P
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You can try pouring some anti-smoke oil treatment in there and see what happens. Not like it's going to hurt the motor. :P
very true... girlfriends old metro she picked up for 250 bucks had a real bad oil craving... 15w40 and some stop smoke and it atleast slowed it down... (when it started it smoked the whole road out...) acually drove pretty good for a blown motor (had it out on the highway doing 130!) loaded it up with stop smoke and sold it to a guy for 250 bucks after we beat the snot out of it driving it everywhere.