ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Zuki One on February 18, 2005, 02:41:27 PM
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Where do i find build buy or steal to get these?This is required for the axle swap (91 4dr)am i correct?Im doing the swap with the DANA 30&35the 30 is out of a 85 scrambler iwill be runnin 4.10's ,ya know i haven't thought about steering yet but hell 2 axles and a set of rims and im in to it for $50 bones not bad so hey any extra info on the SAS or insight let me know thanx
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No SYE available yet.
Gotta make your own or do a OTT Kicker 3 ;D
Or even a RingerR from Rock4X Fab http://www.rock4xfabrication.com/ringr.htm
(using a Toyota 5spd and T-case with you Zuki motor)
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ive ben working on this also, hopefull i will have something done buy next weekend ,ill let everyone know how it goes ,and if it goes . :-/
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Thanx im trying to keep the tcase and auto in the kick though?No SYE available yet.
Gotta make your own or do a OTT Kicker 3 ;D
Or even a RingerR from Rock4X Fab  [url]http://www.rock4xfabrication.com/ringr.htm[/url]
(using a Toyota 5spd and T-case with you Zuki motor)
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I hope your planning on changing the gear ratio? 4.10's won't work too good!
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explain why not?32'tires should be fine right?
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Do you have 4.62 or 5.13 in there right now?
If you have 4.62, why not run 4.56 in the Dana 30 and leave your stock rear alone?
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Making a slip yoke eliminator is really easy. Just drill a hole in the middle of your shafts of the tcase. You'll need to split it apart. Get some flanges. Then run a bolt through the middle connecting the flange to the shaft. Done.
Brian
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Making a slip yoke eliminator is really easy.  Just drill a hole in the middle of your shafts of the tcase.  You'll need to split it apart.  Get some flanges.  Then run a bolt through the middle connecting the flange to the shaft.  Done.
Brian
its a little more complicated than that , the track kick 3rd flange does match the splines on the tcase shaft ,but their is not enough yolk on the flange to reach the bearing race in the case and the flange also runs into the ceal of the case , what im doing is parting off the yoke on the driveshaft at 3'' then boaring the flange so that is a slip fit over the yoke then welding the flange to the yoke ,boaring the yoke out on the flange side 1.175"x.675",then making a slug 1.175"- x.5" and welding the slug in the center of the yoke ,this keeps the flange off the ceal and reaches the bearings. drilling a hole in the center of the slug , im going with a 1/2 20 bolt , if anyone has done this differentley or easyer let me know ,this is what i came up with
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its a little more complicated than that , the track kick 3rd flange does match the splines on the tcase shaft ,but their is not enough yolk on the flange to reach the bearing race in the case and the flange also runs into the ceal of the case , what im doing is parting off the yoke on the driveshaft at 3'' then boaring the flange so that is a slip fit over the yoke then welding the flange to the yoke ,boaring the yoke out on the flange side 1.175"x.675",then making a slug 1.175"- x.5" and welding the slug in the center of the yoke ,this keeps the flange off the ceal and reaches the bearings. drilling a hole in the center of the slug , im going with a 1/2 20 bolt , if anyone has done this differentley or easyer let me know ,this is what i came up with
This is exactly how saw it needing to be done when I was researching it.
Great job, tell us how it goes!
~Nate
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Go with a smaller bolt, 1/2"
is going to cut into the output
shaft size greatly, all you need
is an 8mm (1/4") bolt to hold the
SYE onto the end of the shaft
Wild
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Go with a smaller bolt, 1/2"
is going to cut into the output
shaft size greatly, all you need
is an 8mm (1/4") bolt to hold the
SYE onto the end of the shaft
Wild
the output shaft is just over 1" wich is plenty of material for a 1/2" bolt and a 1/2" bolt only requires 1/2" of thread so i will only have to drill a 29/64" hole 3/4" deep in order to thread it 1/2" deep
my consern with going smaller is the force of driveshaft pulling on the flange over time may break a small bolt.,im shur everyony has trisd to pull a greesed slipshaft apart befor and the suction makes it difficult at times,imagine trying to do it really fast.
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im shur everyony has trisd to pull a greesed slipshaft apart befor and the suction makes it difficult at times,imagine trying to do it really fast.
what about drilling a small hole to let air travel into the driveshaft to releave suction?
stu
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what about drilling a small hole to let air travel into the driveshaft to releave suction?
stu
thougt about that too, but the male end of the slipshaft is usually on the driveshaft. would have to be a long drillbit
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Go with a smaller bolt, 1/2"
is going to cut into the output
shaft size greatly, all you need
is an 8mm (1/4") bolt to hold the
SYE onto the end of the shaft
Wild
I'd bet that this would work better too, as a quarter inch grade 8 bolt has tensile strength of over a ton. I doubt that the suction of a traditional slip shaft is greater than that. Even the most stubborn of slip shafts that I've seen have been able to be pulled apart by hand.
~Nate
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the output shaft is just over 1" wich is plenty of material for a 1/2" bolt and a 1/2" bolt only requires 1/2" of thread so i will only have to drill a 29/64" hole 3/4" deep in order to thread it 1/2" deep
my consern with going smaller is the force of driveshaft pulling on the flange over time may break a small bolt.,im shur everyony has trisd to pull a greesed slipshaft apart befor and the suction makes it difficult at times,imagine trying to do it really fast.
I don't think I'd be worried about the material for the bolt, but I'd worry about the amout of material being twisted in relation from the gear to the drive shaft.
Granted they make axles larger to get more teath and thusly more surface area to apply torque to, but they also get more strength in the larger diameter. If you take too much material out of the output shaft you may run the risk of 'pretzling' it
~Nate
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ran into a problem today .cant find a drill bit that will drill the herdened shaft,once i get it started i should be ok,shafts are usually only hardened on the surfase so i may have to grined .1 or so off the end of the shaft to get to the solft stuff
as far as pretzeling the outtput shaft it would also have to twist the yoke and their will be 2.5" of yoke on the shaft,IMO it will be ok if i can get the shaft drilled and tapped
and i never said it would work anyway i just said i was working on it ,i appreciate the input ,i am just experminting ,if it works it may give people more options for their rigs ,may even see some track trans in samurais, who knows ,im just playing with some ideas
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Are you using a Cobalt or Titanium Nitride
Drill Bit ?? High Speed Steel won't touch that.
What size are you starting with ??
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started with 3 ,1/4 " cobalt bits ,didnt touch the shaft rounded the bits off :-/
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Might need a Diamond tip to get
thru the hard surface, I didn't think
the shaft would be that hard, hard is
brittle too you know, I like to start with
a small bit for big holes, then work up
3 or 4 bit sizes to the size I want, Try
a titanium nitride, see if it cuts it, I would
start with a 3/16 or 5/32 drill, slow speed
so you don't burn the end off, and see how
it goes, if not then a diamond or a die grinder
with a small silicon carbide stone to get thru
the hard surface, and you might want to rethink
a 1/2" hole if it's this hard to cut ;)
I still think an 8mm or 1/4" grade 8 bolt
would be quite adiquate, you could compromise
with a 5/16" bolt, that's 8mm, I was wrong 1/4"
is a 6mm, and I think that is a little small
Wild
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dang,sorry it took me so long to get back here :-/ But hey thanx for the info and heylet me know how yours turns out! ;D and i shall pass some info back to you on my situation mesjr2004
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started working on it again today , split the cases and took my output shafts out so they can be chucked up in a lathe , ive got my yokes and flanges done , im going to try to drill a 3/8 hole and silver solder a grade8 stud in it , im worried about breaking a tap off in it :-/
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Silver Solder doesn't like steel much,
you will have to braze it in, and that
will weaken the shaft, I think a good
shop can do this work, I would try it
myself, but I'm like that
Good Luck mesjr
Wild
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ok their done ! the process was a carbide boaring bar (well two actually ) and slow .the case hardening is about .030 deep . once you get past that its buter. a reliefe was also cut to keep the hardined meteral away from the tap. i used a 3/8 fine thread tap and will still stud it so the threads in the shafts arnt being titned and loosned .i will use blue locktite in the shaft and red on the nut holding the flange on. id post picts but i havent charged my batery since moab