ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Model Specific Suzuki Forum => Suzuki Grand Vitara, Vitara, Chevy Tracker (Gen. 2 Platform) 1999-2005 => Topic started by: JDMCRX on March 25, 2005, 02:47:51 PM
-
Hey guys got a 02 Grand Vitra V6 and i will be installing my Manual Hub locks off a 92 sidekick ill post pics and info.
-
So did you get the hubs installed this weekend?
-
I just installed the Warn hubs a few hours ago... Work fine!
-
can u post a some photos and also give us some tech info about installing manual hubs please??
i,m planning to put manual hubs to my GV too.  :)
and some tech info about that will be great to me!!
-
I wrote this sort of how-to, I can translate if you don't understand something, just ask!
Pues os comento un poco cómo los he instalado. Es muy fácil, quitar unas piezas y poner otras. Las instrucciones dicen que ya vienen bien engrasadas, asi que no le metais más grasa que si no no funcionaran correctamente. Hay que darles un repaso cuando toque repasar las juntas de los rodamientos.
Primero de todo levantamos el coche, es necesario quitar la rueda:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/0/6/06c14b79.jpg)
Te miras los liberadores (pero que bonitos que son!:]) NO babear dentro, que luego se oxidan las partes:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/6/e/6eb366b2.jpg)
Se quita la tapita de plastico. Hay una muesca, que en mi caso estaba debajo de donde pone "20mm" en el soporte del disco de freno. La llave del gato va muy bien:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/9/9/9951fd0a.jpg)
Esto es lo que se ve. Hay 6 tornillos (que en la foto ya no están) que hay que guardar bien, los volveras a utilizar. Como antes, la pieza esta se quita con la llave del gato en la muesca:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/d/3/d3bf65ea.jpg)
Nos quedamos con el cubo fijo en la mano. Para el baul de los recuerdos. Aqui empieza a ser un poquito peligroso. No debe entrar absolutamente nada ahi dentro. IrÃÂa bien no hacerlo como yo y lavar el coche antes...
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/d/3/d324e590.jpg)
Presentamos el liberador:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/7/6/76a6e7f0.jpg)
Y lo metemos:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/4/6/460564fa.jpg)
Montamos los tornillos originales del cubo asÃÂ, con las arandelas que trae el liberador:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/6/a/6a6da73f.jpg)
Atornillamos al par que nos digan las instrucciones. No tengo llave dinamométrica, asi que a ojo y ya lo arreglaré luego:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/b/e/bed758a4.jpg)
Ahora viene la tapa y "llave". Hay que meter la junta que trae, y asegurarse que la lleve está en posición 4x2, de lo contrario nos costará meter la tapa:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/5/2/52a54b75.jpg)
Hay que fijarse también que este palito:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/d/0/d08bc6e9.jpg)
Entre en este agujero:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/6/9/69d27961.jpg)
Montamos la tapita y apretamos como dicen las instrcucciones:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/4/a/4a3ccf4c.jpg)
Montamos la rueda y comprobamos que bien que quedan:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/2/4/24feee77.jpg)
Y estas son las partes viejas. Como veis, son cubos fijos:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/6/3/63ceaf01.jpg)
Pues ala, ya os estais pidiendo unos y a montarlos!:]
-
thanks sergi!
its nice and easy as i imagine.
i just wonder if we have to do something with the shafts. ÂÂ
i want to know if the shafts must be locked in the differential from now on, and only lock/unlock the hubs or we dont need to do anything at all and we just remove these things from each side and put the new hubs??
i think that the shafts must be locked on the diff in some way...... so u dont need to use the "air presure lock" that GV now has.
the way u did it, its nice but u still have to use "air presure lock" even with the manual hubs.
sorry for my english but i hope u ll understand what i mean..!!!! ;)
correct me for mistakes or misunderstanding  :(
some more tech info about my wonder will be nice for me  :)
-
Yeah, the CVs will still be disconnected at the differential. you still have the original, perfectly workink shift on the fly system. The good thing is you just leave the hubs in 4x2 during weekdays, and avoid unnecesary wear (a friend had bearing failure recently) and just put 4x4 when on trail. Then, you get the fuses, which should break before a CV. Thats the main reason I installed them, besides, I happened to be in the states, so with such a good euro/dollar relation they came cheap ;D. Had to sneak them through customs though ;).
If you want to get rid of the differential vacuum system, there is an article on zukiworld explaining how to do it. It isn't easy though...
-
yes, ok now.
i made some thoughts wrong way!
i know what u mean and its ok!!
fuses are great too.
i,m planning to install superwinch hubs as soon as possible.
have a good time there!!
-
Make sure and check those hub bolts on the Warn lockouts all the time. On the two sets I had, they would always loosen up after a run, even with locktite. In fact I actually tossed/lost one going down the highway! :-[ Talk about a rock chip! :)
-Eric
-
hmmmm
Thanks about the tip ebewley. I'll go check right now, wouldn't want to lose one! :-/
-
Great job with the pictures! I always intend to do that with stuff I work on but then end up with one or two early shots and one finished shot. :P
If it's not asking to much could you translate that into English? I'm planning on doing this myself in a while on the '03.
Love the TD 2 seater by the way. Kinda different seeing one of those compared to our 4 door with the V6. Any idea what king of fuel mileage you get in miles per gallon?
-
Hi,
I'll do the translation tomorrow, it's bedtime here. It's pretty straighforward, and you can follow the instructions. I did this mini "how-to" because not everyone around here speaks english (I mean in my country) so following instructions can be difficult.
I get about 30mpg, I don't think it's much different from yours is it? Apart from other benefits of diesel for off-road, it's much cheaper than regular gas here. Regular gas is around 0.94 € per litre, whilst diesel is 0.87 € per litre. That turns out to be 3.553 € per gallon and 3.288 € per gallon, so it is WAY more expensive than what you guys get >:(. So diesel is expensive, but less than regular.
Oh, by the way, it's a 2 door, but 4 seater ;). I only use 2, so the rear seats are always lowered, so ok, it's a 2 seater ;D
-
My bad, I ment 2 door. Good catch there. ;)
Beleive it or not our best mpg so far has been 21mpg on the freeway at a constant 70mph for nearly 3 hours. Not bad but I'd like to see better. Half the reason I want manual hubs is that I want the best gas mileage we can get with it. The other half is that I trust manual hubs more than a constantly spinning front diff.
Those gas prices aren't horribly worse than ours. We're at $2.35 a gallon for 87 octane and I think it's in the $2.20's for diesel. In the last year we've seen a raise of almost 80 cents a gallon. Still...I bet in the long run that 9mpg or so you have on us would give you the advantage.
I'll keep an eye out for the English translation. Thanks! 8)
-
This is how I installed my Warn Manual Locking hubs, from RRO. I simply followed the instructions supplied with the hubs, but decided to do a mini guide because I participate in another forum where many members don't speak English, so following the instructions suplied by Warn can be complicated. It is also to show that it is easy and straightforward, as long as you have the proper tools.
Some hubs need loads of grease to work. It says in the instructions that these come properly greased from factory, and that they won't work properly if more grease is added. So don't do it ;).
To install, you need to lift the car to extract the wheel:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/0/6/06c14b79.jpg)
These are the hub locks, with the body on the left and the cap on the right.
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/6/e/6eb366b2.jpg)
You need to remove the plastic cover. There is a small dent (in my case it was just under where it says "20mm" on the disk support. To remove, the tool used to remove the wheel nuts works great.
By the way, I'm not sure if you have this same black cover, maybe it is somewhat different, but it shouldn't be very hard.
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/9/9/9951fd0a.jpg)
This is what is under the black cover. You need to remove the six bolts (in the photo they have already been removed). You need to keep these, you shall use them later. Like before, this metal part needs to be removed by inserting the wheel tool in the dent.
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/d/3/d3bf65ea.jpg)
Now you have the factory locked hub in your hands. You can get rid of it if you want, I'll be keeping mne just in case. Take care, NOTHING can go inside and get things dirty. It would have been a good idea to clean the car before starting (not like me).
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/d/3/d324e590.jpg)
Take the hub body:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/7/6/76a6e7f0.jpg)
Put it in:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/4/6/460564fa.jpg)
Now is when you reuse the original bolts, with the rings that Warn supplies in this order:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/6/a/6a6da73f.jpg)
Now you need to simply bolt them in, at the torque specified on the page. I didn't have a torque wrench, so I just pushed hard and will solve that later.
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/b/e/bed758a4.jpg)
Now is when you put the cap. There is a gasket that comes with the hubs, you need to use. If you don't water, dust etc will go in and thats not good is it? Be sure that the "key" is in 4x2 postion, if it is in 4x4 it will be very difficult to put the cap in (you would be trying to compress the spring):
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/5/2/52a54b75.jpg)
You need to make sure this...:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/d/0/d08bc6e9.jpg)
...goes in there:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/6/9/69d27961.jpg)
Now you simply use the supplied bolts and use the torque wrench to the specified torque:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/4/a/4a3ccf4c.jpg)
Now wheel goes back on:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/2/4/24feee77.jpg)
These are the old parts:
(http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/6/3/63ceaf01.jpg)
Now go start on the other wheel ;D
There, all translated! ;D
-
Nice translation, thanks. It is much better than Babelfish. One question, it looks to me like those hubs stick out a bit furth than the wheel now, am I right? I really don't want my hubs being the widest part of my Tracker, I would much rather have my tires hit the rocks instead. I guess that is what wheel spacers or custom backspacing would help. ;)
-
In my suzuki they are inside the wheels, you could place a flat stick from one edge of the rim to the other without touching the locking hub. Apart from that you've got the rubber. However, my rims are 16x7JJ, and the rubber is 235mm wide. I'm not sure about the tracker, but it isn't that wide is it?
-
No, the base models on the trackers are 15x5.5 but I have a ZR2 which has 15x6 alloys. My tires are also only 215 mm wide but I plan to upgrade to 235s this year.
-
If you upgrade to 235 I don't think the hub will stick out...
-
That is what I am thinking, but if they do it would be a good escuse why I "NEED" wheel spacers ::)
-
Thanks a lot man! No surprises but the little tips will help a lot when I do mine. 8) I've been thinking about taking Espanol classes at college but I guess I really should now if I need to keep up in the world of Zuki. ;D
-
Hey guys sorry ive been out and soo busy
Dham nice write up did u notice any difference? I
I noticed bit better gas milage
-
I noticed bit better gas milage
How much?
-
I did 2 trips home ruffly 20-30km more gas per tank
Like i was getting 570 -600 a tank i got 2 tanks around the 620km
-
Cool, thanks.
-
Just wanted to add if you put Suzuki hubs on your GV/XL7/Vitara etc make sure you get the conical washers Suzuki used.  Realized that I need those today after I discovered the GV "fixed hubs" don't have anything but bolts with no washers. >:(
Anyone have a set of those bolts and washers? ???
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/364000-364999/364830_118_full.jpg)
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/364000-364999/364830_119_full.jpg)
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/364000-364999/364830_120_full.jpg)
-
yeah u have to use the cone alignment washers
-
Yeah, I got a set coming to me now. I never did understand what those things are for and why Aisin uses them. Warn and Dana have been getting by fine without them for 60+ years.
-
They're on. 8)
The Sidekick/Tracker hubs work great. A literal bolt on swap...as long as you have all the correct parts when you start. :P
I didn't take any pictures as sergi's basically show everything and mine would just be wasted duplication.
Showed the fiance how to use them and what they do and then took her on a short bit of 2 tracking (green laneing for some of you from Pomgolia) to celebrate. ;D She got right out and locked her side in without any trouble.
-
The Sidekick/Tracker hubs work great. A literal bolt on swap...as long as you have all the correct parts when you start. :P
I have a set of Aisin Samurai hubs left. Can they also be used on a GV?
-
Yep.
Any Suzuki hub that's 26 spline and has the 6 mounting bolts (which I think is all of them) will literally bolt right on.
People told me all kinds of things about why they wouldn't fit but they slipped right on like they were supposed to be there.
Make sure you have the mounting bolts and washers from the donor vehicle. The ones on your Vitara/GV/XL7 won't work.
-
I just picked up a "set" of asin hubs from an 89' trackkick
now I just realized..... I think I forgot to grab the hub body... CRAP
what else do I need, what are those conical washers?
-
wish i could help you out, i havnen't swapped my hubs yet, and plan on installing new warns.
-
Pulling off my warn hubs.
Eaten two sets of hub/bearings!!
Talked to a rep from a bearing company, apparently "freewheeling" the bearing is not a good thing at all. The inner race would spin with the cv when the stock drive flanges were on, now the centre bearing race is idle and it increases the load on the outer race and bearing cage.
I thought the first set which were the stockers were just tired, but when both sides failed again after only 4000km I thought I would check into it. I also guess thats why Warn doesn't recommend their hubs for newer rigs with the axle disconnect system. Just because the bolt on doesn't mean they'll work properly I guess. At $149.00 cdn |removethispart|@ jobber x 4 = no fun!
ps For sale one set of slightly used Warn premium manual locking hubs!! LOL!
-
I know that a few people out there have been running these for a couple of years now with no problems. I have had mine on for over 5000 miles now with no probs. That sucks. I hope mine last.
-
interesting.... i wonder if you're running into problems because you have more lift than most the other guys running these hubs?? i was pretty much set on installing these on mine, hhhmmmmm... probably not doing shit to it till after winter but was planning on having a box of goodies ready to go.
any other opinions on hubs out there???????
-
Well, I'm glad to hear I don't need to agonise about fitting freewheel hubs to my GV.
Tell the truth, I never believed the claim of fuel saving - in my book it must be so small as to be immeasurable. Now the idea of saving wear had some attraction, but how much wear are you going to save when the components are not loaded?
One thing I don't get about Lowres's report: How come the Gen 1 vehicles are immune to this problem? Do they have a different bearing setup?
-
I've had the warn hubs on my '01 tracker for about 1.5 years/ 15,000 miles with no troubles. I switched to them because the front axle oil seal wore out from the shaft always spinning and because I'd like to get rid of the shift on the fly system - whenever I get some extra cash!
I certainly didn't notice any fuel savings either. Also, the suspension is stock so perhaps the lift would have an effect on the bearings going? Do you spend a lot of time in the water with the truck because I've noticed that the wheel bearings aren't too well sealed on the inside with the cv/half shaft.
-
The 99-00 Grand Vitaras have a different type of hub. Probably more closely resembles the pre-1999 Sidekicks. I wonder if that makes a difference. I'm not sure what to believe with the whole manual v.s. automatic hub thing. People talk about the system not being designed to have the axles spinning all the time. At the same time, shift on the fly was an option on some pre-99 Sidekick Sports. That must mean their axles were spinning all the time too. This concept didn't just show up on the 1999 GV. I guess I'm going to be able to prove or disprove this bearing issue, cause I just put on the WARN hubs and two brand spankin' new wheelbearings the other day. I also have the Rocky Road suspension lift. If the bearings give out in the next year or two we'll know there's a problem! I hope to hell they don't!! Later....
-
perfect! go put lots of miles on and let us know! i'd rather not waste my money on shit i don't need but theoretically the manual hubs make sense. also, right now from my understanding is that only the right side is always turning, so; in theory if the hubs are causing this shouldn't we be having problems with the left side already??
-
also, right now from my understanding is that only the right side is always turning, so; in theory if the hubs are causing this shouldn't we be having problems with the left side already??
Each hub is attached by the drive flange to its axle shaft, so both sides turn, surely.
-
i'd like to know this because it seems that the leaking problem is always the right side from everything i recall hearing about and reading.. anybody know for sure?!
-
For my GV ('98), I've just checked the FSM.
The wheel hub rides on a bearing, the inner of which is mounted on the wheel spindle, which does not rotate. The spindle is hollow, and carries another, separate bearing inside, in which the driveshaft rotates. So the thing about the inner and outer rotating/not rotating does not apply. So I guess I could use freewheel hubs, to save the driveshaft bearings from wear, but I wonder whether there's enough benefit.
Could someone perhaps be more precise about exactly which parts are supposed to wear out/leak if the axles always rotate?
Just checked the Parts Catalogue, and, as Davyboy said, it's different for 01-on. The driveshaft bearing is exactly the same, but there is no separate hub bearing - it looks like the bearing is built into the hub. I don't see why that would make any difference to fitting freewheel units.
-
Talked to a rep from a bearing company, apparently "freewheeling" the bearing is not a good thing at all. The inner race would spin with the cv when the stock drive flanges were on, now the centre bearing race is idle and it increases the load on the outer race and bearing cage.
It would be interesting to know which of the bearings failed - the one between the spindle and the driveshaft, or the one built into the hub. If it's the second, that rep was barking up the wrong tree. If it's the first, what load is he referring to - there's only the weight of the driveshaft.
-
Thanks for the explination Ian. Being the owner of a 99 model and not having a steel front diff I'll probably get around to doing the manual hubs at some stage. At the moment I'm currently thinking about putting my tax return into a lift :) so I might do hubs then. The only problem is finding the time to organise it all!
bzzr2, my understanding is that the leaking diff is seperate to the wheel bearing problem. The wheel bearing is out at the wheel and the diff seal is at the diff, they are seperated by the drive shaft. The diff seal is more likely to leak if the drive shaft is always spinning because this puts wear on the seal and due to the unsymetrical diff set-up there is probalby a different seal on either side of the diff (hence one more likely to leak than the other). However as Ian explained, if the drive shaft is not spinning on the 01-on models then it is the wheel bearings that wear out quickly, and it would be both of the wheel bearings.
I hope that makes sense, I haven't got into this too much but that's the picture I have in my head.
-
I just looked at my 02 service manual. I don't understand how the shaft not rotating would wear out a bearing.
The shaft is not turning in the hollow spindle, so no excessive wear, no load, no excessive friction or heat, etc.
How is the Sidekick set up?
You guys are scaring me, my hubs just got delivered today.
Marc
-
I agree with Binkie. I did originally think that, with the driveshaft not turning, the bearing would be affected, but I have convinced myself that it cannot, and altered my post.
Just in case this is hard to follow, let me explain using "layers". First is the driveshaft which feeds through the hollow spindle and is supported by a bearing inside the spindle. Next layer is the spindle, a hollow tube which is bolted to the steering knuckle, and does not turn with the wheel or the driveshaft. Next is the wheel (or hub) bearing, which sits on the outside of the spindle, and last is the hub, which rides on that bearing, and to which the wheel is bolted.
On the Sidekicks and Gen 1 Trackers, there's a bushing inside the spindle instead of a driveshaft bearing - otherwise the principle is the same.
My reasoning is that the driveshaft sits in a separate bearing to the wheel (or hub) bearing. The driveshaft bearing is inside the spindle (the non-rotating hollow member attached to the knuckle), and the hub bearing is outside the spindle. If the driveshaft is not turning, its bearing cannot wear, as no movement is taking place, and no part is under load. The hub bearing is being turned by the wheel, as you would expect, but cannot "feel" whether the driveshaft is turning or not. The point is that the driveshaft does not come into contact with the hub bearing, so there can be no interaction.
-
Interesting. So when the drive shaft is driving the wheel the hub links the drive shaft to the wheel outside (using the layered explaination) of the wheel bearing? Therefore the only possible (extra) wearing part should be between the drive shaft end (spline or whaterver) which is now not spinning and the manual hub.
Ok in this layered set up where is the weight of the car being carried or where does the control arm attach? Is it to the hollow spindle? Coz that would still mean that only the wheel bearing supports the weight. Anyway I think I need a picture, maybe I'll go looking on the weekend.
-
Yes, the lost motion between wheel and driveshaft takes place in the manual freewheel unit (which is really a dog-clutch). The freewheel unit contains some form of bearing, but it does not even support the weight of the driveshaft end (the driveshaft bearing inside the spindle does that), so is very lightly loaded and will probably not wear very much at all.
The weight of the car is borne as follows:
Frame to spring, to control arm, to knuckle, to spindle, to wheel (or hub) bearing, to hub, to wheel.
So yes, the wheel bearing carries the weight.
-
The only way I could see damaging the bearings is if the splines were not a correct match. This would cause excessive side loading on the inner bearing. This is unlikely, you would know about the improper fit during install.
Maybe there is not enough or too much spline engagement, that is why they do not recommend for the Grand Vitara? Or maybe they just don't recommend it because you don't need it on the Grand Vitara?
I'll proceed when the snow is gone and don't need shift on the fly anymore.
Marc
-
You can run manual hubs all winter just fine. Simply lock them in around November and unlock them in April when the snow is gone. Works fine. We've done it for several years on our vehicles with no issues and I know people who have literally been doing it for decades.
Up until yesterday our GV had easily over 20,000 miles on it running manual hubs...including a 3000 mile trip to Florida and back in just over a week. No issues.
If I can get the new Warns I fitted last month off of the GV they'll be going on our next Suzuki. More in a separate post.
-
Pulling off my warn hubs.
Eaten two sets of hub/bearings!!
ps For sale one set of slightly used Warn premium manual locking hubs!! LOL!
I am interested how much shipped to 39157 ? Thanks
-
Just resurrecting this one, because I've just had a thought about the wheel bearing failure issue:
It's well known that Samurai freewheel units do not fit Track/Kicks. This is because the Track/Kick axles are prevented from pulling out of the hubs by snap rings on the shafts (Sammys are not). Track/Kick freewheel units have a recess inside to accommodate the snap rings. The GV axles also have snap rings.
Now, some people have posted that they HAVE used Sammy units on a Track/Kick, and there was no problem fitting them. What if those people have got a suspension lift fitted, so that the axles are retracted further than normal? The units will fit, but when the suspension arm rises, the axle will extend into the hub, and the ring will hit the unit. The impact will be communicated to the rotating part, and thence to the wheel bearing, resulting in a sideways shock load.
If this theory is right, make sure you fit Track/Kick units, not Sammy ones, and the problem will not arise.
-
I'm still convinced that was the mechanic talking out his ass and just bad info.
-
Wow. Interesting thread.
FWIW, I was one of the first to swap in manual hubs. I've gotten over 70K miles like that. Still the original bearings, and no failure.
The GVs came with "lock-out" hubs. Only reasons was so everything always spun, and the new "air diff" could do its thing any time, so they could market "Shift on the Fly", as all SUVs were doing it. This was Suzuki's attempt to make an existing platform do something it was never originally meant to do, and that is, run with it's hubs locked all the time.
To better answer Ian. This ended up making the axle housing seal on the pass side inner CV shaft prematurely wear. Techs would see this happen on Manual hubbed Kickers when the owners would lock the hubs and then drive 10's of thousands of miles.
Suzuki recognized this early on with the GVs. Not only was the seal "revised" several times in a matter of 3 years (can be seen thru the several "superceed" part numbers for that seal), but they even issued a TSB saying the premature seal failure was due to inadeguate filling of the front diff, and called for a WACKY fill proceedure of lifting the front end like 30* and then filling. This would over fill the diff and get oil to the seal (or they thought).
Apparently, it didn't work. Eventually, the seal superceed part numbers continued even after the TSB issue date. Leaking pass side diffs is something most Gv's are accustom to.
Now, that said, before I went with manual hubs, I too had a leaking seal right about 10k miles. Put in a newer sytle seal (has been redesigned since) and added the Warn hubs. After 70K+ more miles, it doesn't leak, and wheel bearing are good. Something to be said there.
I know of a few, some on this board, that do/did not have manual hubs and have replaced the seal many times.
Additional benefits:
- less wear on carrier bearings
- less rolling resistance
- ability to unlock hubs if a axle breaks
- fuggin' looks cool
I dunno if the last one really counts with most, but it does with me. It don't mean a thing if it aint got some bling. 8)
-
Wow. Interesting thread.
FWIW, I was one of the first to swap in manual hubs. I've gotten over 70K miles like that. Still the original bearings, and no failure.
That must be nice I'm 65k and 3rd set of bearings >:(
I know of a few, some on this board, that do/did not have manual hubs and have replaced the seal many times.
And twice for this.
-
.....but they even issued a TSB saying the premature seal failure was due to inadeguate filling of the front diff, and called for a WACKY fill proceedure of lifting the front end like 30* and then filling. This would over fill the diff and get oil to the seal (or they thought).....
So the "well known" advice to jack up the front when refilling is unneccessary?
-
Considering on the later years they moved the fill plug higher on the diff I'd say it is necessary.
-
it is necessary to give you more oil to leak out ::)
-
I dunno. Knock on wood but my '03 GV and '02 XL7 have never given us any troubles.
-
i have replaced the complete pass side gear, from bearings in the diff to the wheel bearing..... with less than 60KM on mine. GM was very good about doing it all under warranty as the 1st issues came up with no mods and less then 20KM. the dealership did not crank the front up any degrees when doing the front diff refill as it is not part of their procedure. but if this is working for some guys run with it.
-
starting in 2002 the fill plug was raised on the diff.
-
So the "well known" advice to jack up the front when refilling is unneccessary?
Well, if you have hub disconnects, I'd say yes it's unnecessary, as it's esentially the same way it would be in a Sidekick, only occasional 4wd use and only then would the axle turn.
Never reallt made sense anyhow. I mean, oil will slosh down there and oil the seal with every left hand turn. You wouldn't want the seal to sit in an oil bath. I think the seal is small, and since it is an "unsupported" stub and will wobble some, the seal sees a lot of wear conditions. I think it's just the whole pass side, GV or Sidekick, isn't designed to be turning all the time. It was designed for limited use. Had it been designed for full-time 4wd, I think they would have used a bearing-supported inner CV. But that's my take on it (and one of a suzuki DSM)
But I still lift mine. Why? I've got diff drop brackets. This means the oil will sit futher away from the pinion, and you want that well oiled. I'm not concerned
-
It's part of Suzuki's TSM procedure. GM might not have followed suite similar to GM's TSM about the rusty front crossmembers and Suzuki not having an equivalent TSM or recall about them.
-
FWIW - I bought the warn premium manual hubs back in 2005 from RR. I've put 40k miles on them without a problem. The first 20k was with the factory air diff and the last 20k has been with the coversion. Suspension is stock and the wheel bearings are original with 106k on the car. I replaced the leaking passenger side seal when I did the hubs and it is still holding okay