ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: zaggy on July 15, 2005, 08:08:01 PM
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Well guys.......I'm bbbbbaaaaccccck
Heres the plan
*Get it workin*
- Swap in engine from original project and 5 spd I have here
- Other repairs as needed. (like 4 tires the same size), make it safe to drive.
*Base line performance tests*
- 0 to 50km (sec)
- gas mileage
*Stage One "A"* Full on line Tune up (A How to:)
- Compression Test
- Oil Change
- Rotor/Cap replacement
- Plugs wires/plug change
- Fuel filter change
- Check and set timing
- Valve adjustment
*Stage One "B"* Cheap Power (Best Bang for the Least Buck, IMHO)
- Retard upper cam gear 1 tooth (approx 6 degrees), timing belt install at same time
- 20% speed reduction crank pulley
- Fan blade and clutch replaced with manually switched electric fan
- 2" TBI Spacer
- Low restriction aircleaner/filter assembly
- 2 1/2" exhaust adapted to stock down pipe and using Turbo type muffler
*Re test as above*
*Stage Two "A"* Checking the Suspension
- Ball joints
- Tie rod ends
- Struts and Shocks
- Rear Suspension arms
*Stage Two "B"* Suspension lowering/lifting(I'm going lower but you can go up with the same steps)
- Installing lowers with spring pockets (or you can add spacers)
- Custom upper shock mounts ( or you can flip your strut mounts if you're raising)
- New struts
- Cut bump stops ( not required on a lift)
- Removing/Cutting/Re-installing rear springs (time for rear spring spacers on a lift)
- New shocks
*Stage Two "C" Handling package (Not for off road or raised Zuks)
- Doubled front sway bars
- Rear suspension limiting straps
- 235-60-15 Tires on Chrome tracker rims
- Alignment
*Stage Three*
- Clean up body work (functional and tolerable not show)
- Add fender flares (to hide rear wheel arch rust)
- Cold Air induction scoop. With block off plate for Alberta winters
- Grille mounted auxillary lights
- DIY paint job (repaint) and Zukiworld Windshield decal
- Tint windows
Lets me test all the bits I've been working on.......
I can justify as daily driver.......
Still can go trail runnin.....
Total lowering about 2.5-3" (5.5-6" total clearance to the frame rails behind front wheel/ahead of rear)
HP, I'll find out for sure, but guess around a 85-90
Want to keep weight pretty close to stock
Heres the pics....
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/RK1.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/RK3.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/RK4.JPG)
   What you don't see really is the almost gone front of the rear wheel arch and the rotten rear gate door.
   But back to work....tonight I'm pulling the duff 300km motor and installing a good runner with 224km (good compression, ran excellent, doesn't use any oil)
   If we keep comments on the "RallyKick Comments" thread maybe Eric will make an article for future reference from this one
Tommorow
Zag
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Well we worked till about 2-3am and jammed the running engine in
   Kinda dissappointed at the way it looks, I did all that work but were in such a rush I didn't clean things up really....Looks about the same as yesterday, but runs, don't knock or smoke. I guess paint and goodies as I go.
   Heres the pic of the installed 1.6/8v....224km compression 150 across, runs Xlnt, still have to sort tires and figure out whats wrong with the trans before we start first tests.
   But everything in the engine bay is now good.
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/RK2.JPG)
Hope to have the rest done tonight
Zag
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Man, At least you could have cleaned it ;)
Whats the time for R/R? 8hrs?
Good to see it movin forward. ;D
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Man you're right I should've cleaned it
R&R time 4.5 hrs......
Engine, parts, oil etc, it runs and I already had all the parts......
Busted knuckles, minor blood loss, wifes Mastercard for the bandages......priceless
Zag
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Ever notice whenever you rush it ends up taking longer.....
When I swapped the engine and trans the other night I did'nt pull the clutch off the engine we used, seemed ok when we tested the engine, don't need to worry aboout it...wrong.
Got everything else checked yesterday, tune up, brakes, suspension, steering, even got 4 of the same tires on the RallyKick (2 different brands of 205-75-15, but good enough for testing).
Well caught up with me last night...doing the first 0-50km run the clutch failed, think it's the pressure plate.
Anyway trans has to come out and the clutch get fixed.....base testing and results will come when repaired.
Zag
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Ok we are back in action
This is the RallyKick...all fixed (again), checked over, cleaned up, safe to drive and bone stock
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/RK1A.JPG)
Did (5) 0-50kph (about 31mph) runs as base tests and get an average of  10.5 sec
Gas mileage after 500km hi way trip works out to 25 mpUSg
Don't know how that compares but thats what my stop watch says
- 1991 Stock JLX SideKick 4dr
- 1.6/8v engine 224km...compression 150 across...runs excellent...tuned to spec
- Stock 5 speed
- 5.38:1 gears....confirmed
- P205-75-15 tires
- 2734LBS on the trucker scales w 1/2 tank of gas (converted from kg, hope I'didn't screw up)
Safe to say...Step one complete
Zag
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Hi Gang
Project RallyKick is coming back on stream............
You will notice if you go back to the start of the thread that I've made some changes to the plan and heres why..........
- I see an awful lot of newbies on the board lately and wanted to address some basics
- I needed to alter things for my personal budget
- I always admit when I'm wrong but I hate it.....while checking measurements I discovered I
was going too low with the 2.5-3" drop and the tires I was planning I would have only had
4" or ground clearance to the frame....need 5.5-6" to be safe for the Rally work.
Sorry for the delays but it has been a tough summer in the Parts business.
Zag
Lets keep the comments thread going still for input etc.
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Did (5) 0-50kph (about 31mph) runs as base tests and get an average of  10.5 sec
How about some top gear roll on tests too, say 50-70mph.
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zag ...
does this have RWAL? (I don't know what/when models got RWAL, but my '93 4dr has it, which surprised me!)
are you still going to regear? what to 5.12 or 4.62?
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Here are the pics I promised..........
The first 2 are for HotRod......notice the nicely detailed engine bay
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/RallyKick eng1.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/RallyKickeng2.JPG)
The nice interior
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/RallyKick InteriorJPG.JPG)
And the body is workable
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/RallyKick1.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/RallyKick2.JPG)
Rhinoman
   Initially I will do the 0-50km tests for comparison, but I do want to expand the format to get broader results so the 80km-110km test is in the future.
Snofalls
   No this one doesn't have the RWAL, I don't know when they started? But it doesn't. I will be re-gearing to 5.12's a little farther down the road, as I want to add a LSD when the budget permits...but for the short term I'll stick with whats there. And I'll remember the dibs!
Zag
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Oh, man, you have the "Dish Dash". I am SO envious of you!
I really MISS my 91 4-door - that's the last year of the Dish Dash in the US.
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/RallyKick%20InteriorJPG.JPG)
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I love my dish dash! Its full of junk all the time!
Zaggs when you gonna do the engine mods? interested in knowing if retarding the timing belt does anything.
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I'll start the tune up and engine mods this weekend
Yes the timing belt retarding does work...tried it on the aircraft engine, details are on that thread but got measurable results.
Zag
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I need to get a net for the "dish dash" in my 2dr ... I usually get it full of stuff, get on a climb, and it all dumps onto the floor! (or the lap of the co-pilot).
I do miss it tho in the '93 4dr ...
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hey zag
i was just wondering??? i 've got the twin to your ride .. how do you tell which gearing you have.. is it tagged on the rear diff? or can i just get it off the serial#... i think i't's 5.32's but not sure just a guess......
thanks dwayne
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I checked against the Holander interchange and the Suzuki manual....it was the only available ratio in the 4 dr in 1991.
Zag
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Hey Guys
   I really, really appreciate the comments and critiques, please keep them coming.
But can we keep them on the Project RallyKick (Comments) thread. I'm hoping Eric can make this one a sticky for future reference.
Thanks
Zag
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hey, i was just wonderin if u guys had ever heard of the Vitara "wide boys"?? it may just be an english thing, but over here, we have vitaras (u call them sidekicks i think) and u can get them with super wide arches, 3 inch each side up to 5 inch each side, and these look almost like rally cars. anyways, just a litlle bit of info i thought i would share with u guys, probably already been told...... but anyway!!
Andy
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STAGE ONE "A"
Today is compression Test day!
***Please note***
You are the final authority on any aspect of this project you chose to copy
 I am giving voluntary advice.
 Refer to your manual or local mechanic for
 professional advice.
 I assume no liability for you following along.
Why do a compression test?
- Tells you a general story on the condition of your engine, if the compression is good and it
 has no bad habits you've got a good base to start with.
What is the test going to tell you?
- The general condition of the cylinder and valve sealing
This is one of those places where getting book  values is pretty rare...
Example...
The Haynes manual calls for 170psi minimum |removethispart|@ 400rpm
  My experience is that you have a hard time getting 400rpm off the starter and if you do how can you be sure if you don't have a tachometer? Plus every compression tester gives slightly different readings.
So what are you looking for?
On a cold engine I find, generally, a good engine will read between 100-130 psi (stock)
On a warm engine I find, generally, a good engine will read between 130-160 psi (stock)
  A little higher or a little lower is not a big deal, what you are looking for is that they are EVEN......a difference of 10 psi is OK in my opinion, but dead even is what I like to see.
  You combine this information with the general running condition of the engine...
- Does it use any oil?
- Does it loose any coolant?
- Does it have any major leaks of coolant or oil?
- Does it make any rude or unusual clicking, knocking or craping sounds?
With Project RallyKick
- It doen't use any oil.
- It doesn't loose any coolant.
- It doesn't have any leaks of note.
- It has no noises that should not be there.
So as long as the compression is in the "Zone" and even I've got a good base!
Doing the test.......
Tools
- Spark Plug socket
- Short extension
- Rachet
- Decent compression tester, screw in style not the cheap type you hold in place
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/Tools.JPG)
Lets do it...
- run engine to normal temp (you can do it cold but warm is preffered)
- open hood
- Carefully (don't burn yerself) remove plug wires and mark or layout so you don't mix them up
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/Plugwires2.JPG)
- Remove spark plugs (don't burn yerself, again)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/Sparkpulgs.JPG)
 Now before you go any farther look at them, they should be a light brown and all the same.
 If not you need to figure out why?
 These are from RallyKick
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/Plugcondition.JPG)
- Insert compression tester, hand tight (snug)
- Spin over, I do a ten turn count
- Read the guage, write down the number
- Repeat for the next three cylinders
These are from RallyKick, I cheated and did it stone cold so the numbers are OK, notice they are close to identical indicating good cylinder sealing/valve sealing (120-120-115-120 Stone Cold)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/comp1.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/comp2.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/comp3.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/comp4.JPG)
I had already done a hot test before the engine was removed from the donor vehicle and the hot compression was 150 psi and all even when hot. (So cold was ok for the pics cause I already has a hot)
Now reinstall the spark plugs, hook up the wires and test run to be sure you didn't mess up.
You're done.......and I've confirmed that the RallyKick base engine is in good shape.
Now if you find a cylinder way out of whack it indicates a mechanical problem you need to diagnose...bad rings, sticking valves, burnt valves....
Bad rings or valves can usually be diagnosed by putting a squirt of oil in the offending cylinder.
- If the compression jumps up the rings are in trouble
- If the compression doesn't change it's usually a valve problem
Etheir way no point in doing any more work till you fix the problem.
But for this project....I've got a good one.
Next the major tune up!
Zag
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zag ...
check if your camera has a "close-up" mode ... for pics like the plugs, in "close-up" mode you'll end up with a much better focus (otherwise it's so blurry it isn't much good).
just RTFM on your camera ;D you'll be surprised how much better you'll become as a photographer.
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Thanks SnoFalls
As you may have guessed I'm still learning on the pics.
Zag
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Lets get the tools and stuff ready for the oil change and tune up
Oil change tools.......(left side of photo)
Top to bottom
- Funnel
- 17mm wrench
- Filter wrench
- Good Drain pan (not shown)
Tune up tools.........(right side of photo)
Left to right/Top to bottom
- Large phillips screw driver (for aircleaner)
- 7/32 socket and handle (for distributor cap)
- Ratchet
- Extension
- Spark plug socket
- Spark plug gapping tool (not shown I have to get a new one)
- Vacuum guage
- Timing light
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/Oilchgtools.JPG)
Parts to get
- Oil Filter (get a good name brand)
- 5 quarts, of your favorite oil ( I prefer Castrol GTX)
- Distributor cap
- Distributor rotor
- Spark plug wires (get good ones, I like NGK)
- Spark plugs ( I like NGK again)
- Air filter (get a good name brand, or better yet step up to a K&N, IMO it's worth it)
Gather your stuff and get ready.
Zag
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Here we go on the Tune up and oil change.....
With the vehicle COLD
- open the hood
- Compare and make sure your parts are correct before you start working
 (some zuks have a clip on distributor cap, some screw on...like mine)
- I also gap the plugs before starting, gapping means insuring the gap between the ground
 (hooked wire end) and electrode (center of the plug)is to specification. Also put a little anti sieze
 on the threads.
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/gap1.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/thread1.JPG)
- If you haven't done this before I recommend replacing 1 wire at a time (see photo)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/sparkplug1.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/sparkplug2.JPG)
- Now line up your distributor cap and swap the wires 1 at a time
(Notice the wires are now a nice clean gray! I couldn't get any NGK's so Im using Super Mag 8mm)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/dist2.JPG)
- Now take off the old cap, switch out the rotor, it should just press on. Put it back together.
 (sorry couldn't get a good pic of the rotor in the Zuk, used one on an engine in the shop)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/rotor.JPG)
- Now switch the spark plugs, one at a time
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/plugs1.JPG)
Hey the tough part is done......next setting the timing.
Zag
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Timing...........
***Note*** I was just reminded by Rhinoman....depending on your exact vehicle and where it
was built you may need to insert a jumper lead between pins C and D on the diagnostic
coupler. ****If in doubt consult the Factory Service or equivalent manual****
- Using the 12mm wrench loosen the bolt retaining the distributor till it allows the distributor
 to just move.
- Using a marker, chalk or paint mark the mark on the crank pulley and the marks on the front
 cover so you can see them easily and so can the timing light.
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/marker.JPG)
- Hook up the timing light according to the instructions that came with it. Be sure all wires are
 clear of any rotating parts!
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/tlight.JPG)
- Now run the engine and let it get to operating temp. Now is the time to be careful, don't
 burn yerself and don't let fingers, hands or clothes get caught in rotating parts.
- You may also want to wear rubber gloves during this step to minimise the chance of getting a
 shock. Not something I do, but I know a lot of guys that do!
- Aim the timing light at the crank pulley and read the marks...if it doesn't match the sticker
 under your hood, carefully and slowly twist the distributor till it does. (on an 8v clockwise should
 retard and anti-clockwise should advance the distributor)
- Now shut off the engine, tighten the distributor bolt, good and snug.
- Remove the timing light
You're done.
Next reading the vacuum guage.
Zag
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Vacuum guage......
I should have covered this with the compression test, but I forgot. Thanks to Rhinoman for reminding me.
The vacuum guage is another tool for getting a general indication of the condition of your engine. If you are having problems it can also be a great tool for diagnosing problems.
Generally you want to see the guage at around 15-20 psi of vacuum at idle when warm, depending on the engine.
If it's appreciably lower than that you've got a problem.
Hook the vacuum guage to a un-controlled vacuuum port (one direct to the manifold) theres a good one by the valve cover near the front of the engine, another near the bottom of the TBI mounting base. Use a pencil or something similar to plug the hose you remove.
The engine is still nice and warm from doing the timing so start it up and read the guage.
RallyKick came in at a nice 18"
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/vacuum.JPG)
If the vacuum is low and the engine not running smoothly time to look for why.
- Running rich
- Timing incorrectly set
- Valve timing incorrectly set
- Vacuum leak
- Smokin knockn and running rough, low compression....time for an overhaul
 (see "do it yerself engine rebuild")
Just jokin
RallyKick once again came through with a clean bill of health.
Now crawl underneath (after the vehicle is completely cold), by the fuel tank and change the fuel filter...I don't think I need to explain that one...do I?
Same with an oil change, get er done, I don;t think we need an in depth explanation. If we do let me know on the "Comments thread"
You tune up is done...your Track/Kick should be set to factory spec and everything running well
Good compression/good vacuum, fully tuned, timing set, oil changed...just like new.
You should have as close as you are going to get to the original 80hp.
(I'd also bet it runs a lot better now and is probly getting a lot better gas mileage)
END STAGE ONE "A"
Zag
Next.......getting some more power!
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INPUT NEEDED
I would realy like your input on this thread.
- Has it been useful?
- Is it too basic?
- Have I missed anything or need to explain something better?
- Any other thoughts?
Please put your comments and thoughts on the RallyKick "Comments" thread.
Thanks
Zag
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STAGE ONE "B"
***Note***
For this section I am going to assume a higher level of mechanical ability, and that you are familiar with things like changing a timing belt, removing manifolds, working with exhaust.
"In short...a back yard do it yerself kinda guy"
Ok gang............
First of the performance parts just in........
20% (approx) speed reduction crank pulley.....in my company yellow (paint still wet)
Made for me by a friend in the aviation business, it's the prototype.
4130 Steel...Stock diameter 5" (approx), this one 4" approx
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/pulley.JPG)
Should reduce the speed of the accessories approx 20% picking up a little horsepower.
***I don't know if this would be a good mod for slow speed running.***
- Could cause heating problems at sustained low speed
- Could cause charging problems at sustained low speed
I will report back on how it works
Zag
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Second part comes together........
Electric fan from 94 Talon
Shown here trial fitted to a Kick rad from stock...will be tight but should fit ok.
Will start off wiring to work when running...then switch to a thermo switch later
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/fan1.JPG)
I'll be spending much of the Weekend building the new aircleaner and TBI spacer.
Zag
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Some more stuff about using a vacuum gauge. I scanned this from a book published in 1960, most of it is still relevant but not the bit about the hot plate ;D
http://www.rhinoman.org/vacuum.jpg
(633K)
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CJ added this vacuum guage info on the "Comments Thread"
users.bigpond.net.au/ergoff/vac1.htm
Many thanks to both Rhinoman and CJ for this great info!!!
Zag
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Hey Zag
Just a little tidbit for you, if you nab an electric fan from an A/C equiped Kick you can mount the fan in front of the rad and free up some much needed room between engine and rad, particularly if you got meathooks for hands. I did this on mine and ran it through a temp switch and have no cooling issues at all. These fans move a lot of air. :)
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Hey thanks for the tip Biker!
It's good one, the less work the better in my world!
Unforntunately up here in the Great White North air cond Track/Kicks are like hens teeth so I will continue with my version. But if you can get the A/C fan as Biker recommended it's a great way to do it.
Zag
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Ok gang
   We are going to take a small step back and talk valve adjustment. It was rightly pointed out to me on the comments thread that it's a good plan to do one with a major tune up and the folks that brought it up are correct.
   The design of the valvetrain on the 8v's is a rocker system that takes the profile of the cam and operates the valve like a lever. This is a strictly manual operation that does not self adjust and does require periodic adjusting.
   When you are adjusting the valves what you are adjusting is the gap between the cam lobe and the rocker arm. The gap is there to allow for expansion and contraction of the components and keeping the correct gap guareeentees the correct operation of the valves and that the profile of the cam is prpoerly followed. Performance cams, as an example, can be very sensitive to correct valve setting, too wide they won't run right, too tight and they break rocker arms.
So lets get our tools ready
- 10mm wrench
- 12mm wrench
- 10-12-14 sockets
- extension
- ratchet
- blade and phillips screw drivers
- good feeler guage set
- 1/2 drive 17mm
- 1/2 drive ratchet
- your favorite manual
While you get ready I'll try taking some more mediocre pictures.
Zag
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Tools together...let's start
- Disconnect your battery...better safe than sorry
- Using the 1/2 drive socket and ratchet turn the engine so your timing marks line up, you are
now at #1 Top dead center
- Now carefully remove these parts...gentle don't break anything including your knuckles
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/va1.JPG)
With the valve cover off both valves should be closed (pointy end of the cam down) and you should be able to just wiggle the rockers a tad.
(pics to follow)
If it isn't meeting this description you aren't on TDC (top dead center), so recheck and getr there.
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Not to be rude but.....wheres the rest?
Snake
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"patience grasshopper"
you are getting what you paid for ...
he's probably payin the bills and should be back when possible with updates.
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Here we go finishing the valve adjustment.....
The way I am about to describe is geared to those that have never done this....those with experience will have a different sequence that is much faster but I felt showing a real basic one at a time method was more sorted to those having never done it.
***remember I am volunteering this information and accept no responsibilty for you following along...if in doubt consult a professional mechanic or the an appropriate manual***
So you've got all the necessary stuff off and out of the way, the engine is at top dead center #1 with the pointy ends of the cam lobes facing down and the heels (round smooth part facing up..
The intake clearances are listed at .005" to .007" COLD
The exhaust ..006" to .008" COLD
Get your feeler guage ready
Now insert the feeler guage between the heel of the cam and the rocker follower, like in the pictures..this should be a very snug but not a force fit...it should just slide in with firm pressure.
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/valvadj1.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/valvadj2.JPG)
Now if the valve is too tight or too loose you need to adjust it...
Using a good screw drive and 12mm wrench hold the adjuster firm and loosen the nut
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/valvadj3.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/valvadj4.JPG)
Turn the adjuster till the feller guage fits as described
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/valvadj5.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/valvadj6.JPG)
Then tighten the nut, good and snug but don't get carried away, and be sure to hold the adjuster screw steady...if it moves while you are tightening the nut it changes the adjustment.
Now recheck your adjustment and do the other valve on #1 cylinder
Now turn the crankshaft (by hand) till #2 cylinder is at TDC as we did with #1 and repeat the process
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/valvadj7.JPG)
Keep going till you are done all four cylinders
The important part with this is to be patient and take your time...be sure the valves are correctly adjusted...and everything is good and tight.
Once done I always pull it through 1-2 times by hand and recheck all the clearances a second time.
Put everything back together and you're ready to go.
If you run into problems....read your manual
Now your little 1.6/8v is checked over throughly, tuned, timed, valves adjusted and you are getting as close to factory power as you are going to get
Time to go have fun.
Zag
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Sorry to have to say this but....
Project RallyKick has been sold....it wasn't planned, it wasn't advertised but a customer came in and said "Is the Side Kick for sale" and I said "Make me an offer" figuring he was piss'n around.
Well he paid a really good price in cash for the Kick and I got a 80 Jag XJ12L in trade.
(That's right Praire Dog and Da Tub, now I got 2 Jags)
Now the valve adjust DIY is done I have to start lok'n for another Kick.
Anyone know of anything close to Alberta?
Zag
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hey zag saw a 95 2 wd in the bargin finder for 1800.. think it was up in your end... i'll try to find it again.. didn't write it down...hehe was inbetween coats of paint..and waitin foer the first one to dry
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This had bean are real good thing for information
Will there be more or is this thing over? I have a beater and found it real good for help keeping it running
thnks
Snake
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Snake, I am sure there will be more this not bieng the first it will likely not be the last, in the mean time, there are manny of us here more then willing to help, and lots with mechanical knowladge. if you have a question post it up and somone will have an answer.
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Mythose is right...
There will very likely be more later. But you don't have to follow a thread. His advice is good, post a question and someone will help.
Zag
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Have you found another Suzuki yet?
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Anybody know what happened to the pictures in this thread, or know of an illustrated valve lash adjustment FAQ? Thanks.
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Heres another I bumped up to answer some of the basic questions that keep coming up.
Zag
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Gee
A guy goes on a little break and his pics dissappear and everyone forgets about him
zag
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Gee
A guy goes on a little break and his pics dissappear and everyone forgets about him
zag
are you a relation to the first zaggy? if so , could you tell us what the hell happened to him, please ;D
jason
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Hey Zag, if you forgot your pass word and had trouble logging in let me know VIA PM and I will help out if possible.
Zig
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Hey Locjaw and zukipilot
tis the one and the same Zag...Zig my old password would not work (or I wrote it down wrong) and I couldn't get the system to e-mail my new work e-mail. I'll give you a pm later.
A lot of change in my world, had to close my business (lost a bunch of cash), new career a long ways from the automotive world and a bunch of other stuff.
Finally had a little time so I thought I would drop in.
My wife still has her 93 4 door 16v and I just bought a 91 4 door 8 valve as a driver.
Already making plans for when the weather breaks to start some upgrades. Already went through all the bits like I did on this thread but now I need to wait for time, weather and money before starting on the mods.
hope the gang has been doing well, but it doesn't look like wild has been posting. Hope everything is ok for him.
Don't know if I will be able to be around as much as before, but I will be around.
Zag
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Hi Zaggy, tough break but good to see you back around here.
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Thanks Rhinoman
The last year has been a pretty rough ride but I am hoping 2007 gets back on track.
The little four door I just picked up is great mechanically and soft in the back body so it's decent for a project rig.
The 8 valve is in good shape so as soon as I get some time I plan on adding the...
- Low restriction aircleaner
- TBI Spacer
- Smaller diameter crank pulley
- Retard cam gear 1 tooth
- 2 1/4" exhaust (gonna need it by spring anyway)
Suspension is gonna stay pretty simple
-KYB gas struts front/shocks rear
-Custom front rear sway bars
-Decent tires (215-65-15 or 225-60-15) with heavy block tread.
Body
-Patch up as needed
-Flares to ditch the rust
-4 lights to replace the grille
-2 roof mounts
Bascially a light off road Pre-Runner with some more power
From there we will see what happens
Zag
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Zag,
Good to see you're still around. I was wondering how you were going. We all have our ups and downs. I'll be keen to see how the new project progresses over time.
Cheers,
CJ
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Hey Zag,
Nice to see you back man.
When you talk about retarding the cam gear back one tooth which way do you move the cam gear? If you have the timing cover off and you are looking at the front of the engine ( standing in front of the radiator) do you move the cam gear one tooth clockwise or one tooth counter clock wise?
Also where in the powerband does this help the most? More low end torque? More mid to upper horse power?
Another quick question. Where do you source the smaller crank pulley? I'm pretty sure that I can make the TBI spacer but I would like to find the smaller crank pulley as well.
Thanks for any help.
Mike
P.S. Merry Christmas.
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Hey CJ
Good to hear from you, hope everything is well for you.
MK
To retard the cam 1 tooth and 1 tooth ONLY, you move the mark on the cam gear 1 tooth to the left of the mark on the cover (as you are facing the front of the cam gear).
This causes the cam to open later and remain open later moving your power band up a touch and making the engine a little sharper. I have done it on a selection of the engines (check the forum for my write up on the results) and have had good success.
The lower crank pulley I have made by a freindly machinist, 20% smaller diameter, requires a new accessory belt.
Due to my current financial state I'm afraid this project will progress much slower than my earlier ones but I will keep you guys posted.
Zag