ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: pepperoni on September 16, 2005, 04:32:04 AM
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I've been reading the forum and you guys have the answer for everything. I'm from Sydney and own a 1995 Vitara Estate (4 door) 1.6. EFI.
I've just installed the 3 inch Calmini Suspension Lift and all went together ok, except much longer than the four hours they estimated. More like days.
I'm happy with the ride height and even the harder ride.
I can't stand the vibrations coming from the drive shaft.
I've been moving the diff angle around (moving the rod end in and out on the upper vbar) with differing success. At the best I can hear slight noises from the drive shaft at low speeds no vibrations. At higher speeds 110km to 120km/h (60 -70 mph) a resonating sound happens, usually when lifting the foot from the accelorator. You can nearly eliminate the noise if you push down slightly on the accelorator as you slow.
Is there a trick to it. Ive been told to try and have the two difs at the same angle (the thread nearly all the way out of the bar) but this wasn't any better.
I'm waiting on BF Goodys 235 75 15s and have stock 205 70's on at the moment. Will this make a difference?
Can someone give some advice or an easy remedy. Surely this is an easy fix. Help.
Pepperoni
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If you had the drive shaft apart (probably not but worth a try) you might have assembled it not exactly like it was that can cause such thing....
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Your vehicle has been modififed from stock, different vibrations, noises, etc are to be expected. It's all part of the game!
Come ride in my trackick, yours will then feel like a caddy! ;D
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you need to buy one of those cheap angle gauges. stick it on the output of the tcase and measure the angle. To get the vibs gone you have to have the same angle on the diff. Also you probably have one or possibly both U-joints worn and the lift is compounding the problem.
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if a uj got strained in fitting the kit you could have busted a bearing that was gonna let you down soon anyway -
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Mate have the same kit in my Vit and have tried different positions on the rod end same vibration just different level of noise.
As Chief said has to be expected after sure big mod.
pepperoni don't worry about the 235 75 15s and go for a set of 30" fit fine no rubbing at all.
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Thanks for the tips.
I'm pretty sure that the larger noises aren't doing my driveline any good. Even if I knew it wasn't causing damage I don't think I can take the noise.
Some of the trips I do can be over a nine hour drive in 100km/h to 110 km/h zones everytime I back off I'll get this drone through the drive shaft.
Am going to try a few more adjustments and then start looking at balancing and rechecking the drive shaft.
Am I trying to fix something that can't be fixed or have any of you guys installed the Calmini 3" kit and are totally free of vibrations / noises?
Pepperoni
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I've had the same thing with mine for almost 2 years now, I just live with it.
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Never noticed any vibes in mine. Can I ask why you are going with such small rubber with that suspension?
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CJ
Re the tyres.
There's a couple of reasons.
At the moment the dollar value is a big thing. The Misses let me have the suspension lift and will only allow the Goodrich tyres but no more major mods at the moment. Yeah yeah I know, what are listening to her for. I do have a mortgage as well. Any way I'm happy with that choice.
If I do go the bigger tyres I'll have to go the bigger rims, standard Suzuki 5 spoke 5.5 inch rims at the moment.
With the increase in rubber I don't know what my insurance company will be like. I definitely need the cash if it's totalled.
Same questions with the law as well. Don't get me wrong there are plenty of 4Wd's on the road over here running 33's and up but at the moment I'm happy to go slowly upwards.
Also I start to wonder about the gearing. My car isn't exactly a powerhouse. You would also have to think lower gearing for the 4WD (Rockhoppers etc) and extra $$$.
Back on the other subject with the vibrations.
Can you tell me if you had to adjust the rod end at the vbar to get no vibrations. How far out have you wound it. I'm thinking that with the same kits and same vehicle there can't be much difference in the adjustment. Any help would be appreciated.
Pepperoni
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I'll have a look for you when the weather gets better and take a pic (I'm in Melbourne) could be awhile ;) You will find that even the 235's are illegal on a 5.5" rim so why not put some 30x9.5's on as they are just a little bigger. I've had 33x9.5's on stock rims ;D Is yours an auto or manual as the auto copes better with the bigger rubber due to the torque converter but tends to run away down steep descents a little more although driving through the brakes helps.
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One, I've heard that rotation the driveshaft can make a difference. (Remove the bolts and rotate the drive shaft a 1/4 turn, then bolt back in and try)
If that don't work...
Get a angle gage, you should be able to find one at the local hardware. Pull the drive shaft. Now measure the the angle of the differential flange and the angle of the out put shaft. They should be withing 6 degrees of eachother or they will cause a vibration.
Note: There are those on the board that have gone way beond 6 degrees and claim not to have had a problem. Myself I had a horible vibration on deceleration until I got the angles within 6 degrees and havent had a problem sence.
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Thanks for all the info,
I played around with the angles again today and it seems a little better. I actually started winding the rod end back in which has been opposite to what I thought I should be doing so maybe I haven't got my head around it yet. If I get it right at this stage it will be all luck.
I've gotten some great info back about this and some sites to follow up. I know the 6 degrees or less is supposed to be a simple thing to check out and I've already read sites simplifying it even more but I'm hoping I solve it before I start having to use a guage and pretend I know what I'm looking for in these angles.
CJ those 30 x 9.5's were they BF's or Coopers or what. What brand do you reccomend. I've been using those converters and the 235's are a tad under 29 inches. Is that extra inch worth re-ordering for?
PEP
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I have 30" x 9.5 Wrangler MTRs great tyre heaps of grip.
You will pay about $200+ each for them.
Got a set of 15 x 7 CSA white steel rims for $200
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Has anyone tried a cv drive shaft for eliminating angle vibrations. I had big driveline vibration on my 88 SPOA, SR sam untill I went cv drive lines. Much smoother now.
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I think I have adjusted the noise out as much as I can. I'm pretty happy with it up until the 100 km/h mark. Only minor noises and vibrations.
I'm really starting to think Chet and chrisvitarasport94 may be right. The u-joints may have been strained damaged in the fitting.
I'm going to drive it the way it is for the next couple of weeks and get some bigger tyres. I think you may have talked me into the 30's.
If the vibrations get worse or are to annoying I'll look into a balance on the drive shaft and new u-joints. (possibly a cv joint if price permits) If this fixes it I'll post again. It will hopefully stop someone else going through the same thing.
if a uj got strained in fitting the kit you could have busted a bearing that was gonna let you down soon anyway -
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i will say this right now,
Calmini has had problems with the upper 3rd link. if you have the heim more then like 1/4 the way out it can break after awhile and you will loose you rear shocks and other things too. Hotrod has a thread about this. try searching.
Stu
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Huh, this is really strange. I have absolutely NO vibration from my driveshaft, with the Calmini 3" lift (and I have the 3" body lift as well, but that doesn't effect any of this).
I also suggest trying to rotate the driveshaft a quarter turn at a time to see if it goes away. You did install the driveline spacer, right?
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if a uj got strained in fitting the kit you could have busted a bearing that was gonna let you down soon anyway -
This happned to me when I installed mine. I replaces the U-joints and found that one cap was completely dry and marked with heat badly. I replaces the U-joints and all was OK.
The increased angles will make even mild wear on a part show out. Try the U-joints, I bet it fixes the problem (and it wont cost much either ;)
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if allelse fails just do the easiest fix of all.. turn up the radio...lol seems to work well for the most part...
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Zukipilot.
I spoke to a mechanic mate of mine. He told me the same thing. he also said that the joints wear in the same spot after being at the same angle for most of their life. You change the angle even slightly and they start to make the noise as there not turning at the same point. Sounds feasable.
Just a question though.
Having never had any problems with a drive shaft who do you go to for the fix up. Can I buy the parts and do it myself. Haven't got any specialist tools. If its cheap, it sounds just as easy to take it off and get the specialists to do it.
How much are we looking at?
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New U-joints are fairly easy to do. Some 14mm (I think) wrenches will take the shaft out and then with some hammering you can do the U-joints. If you have not done them before and/or seen someone do it. I would suggest taking the shaft out, going by a parts place and getting your joints, and then take the shaft and joints by a mechanics shop and have them do it (5-10 minute job for someone that knows what they are doing) If you can watch and see how it is done, the next time you wont have any trouble doing it yourself.
Zig