ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: bus_driver on October 17, 2005, 01:00:48 PM
-
fuel pump on 92 kick 2 door.......heard that there my be a trap door from trunk under the carpet ???? yes no??
gotta change mine and it will cost me $225 I guess that was not the GM side of things cuz they are only $100 usually.....love my truck, love my truck
I will just keep saying it
-
No trap door. Gonna have to drop the tank :-/
-
I'm in the process of replacing my rear floor,and I'm gonna add an excess panel to get to my tank. The tank is a mofo to remove. I will post pix tomorrow, after I cut out the rusty floor it took me like 15 min to pull the tank with no problems.
-
wow ... stock location took me about 20 minutes to remove (and that was half full of fuel) ...
what problems are you having dropping the tank (this is probably the easiest car I've ever had to do that to).
-
You could remove the rear 6 body bolts and
lift the body up instead, 4" will clear the pump
assembly
-
wow ... stock location took me about 20 minutes to remove (and that was half full of fuel) ...
what problems are you having dropping the tank (this is probably the easiest car I've ever had to do that to).
Dropping the tank was not the prob. The prob was getting at all the lines and plugs. A persons arms can only bend at the joints especially when you are laying on the ground.
-
If I recall ...
1) pull the line from the fuel filter (easy)
2) unbolt the filler at the top and push it thro the body (easy)
3) lower the tank an inch or so
2) get the 2 hoses for the return line and canister off (tight, but droppin the tank a few inches get's ya some room)
4) pull the filler (+ it's extra hose) outta the connection to the tank (agin that 2" drop helps)
-
yeah looking at just cutting the hole thru the floor since I'm sure the bolts on this thing are rusted like all the other ones but will see tomorrow thanks for the input guys
-
Did you test it to find out it's toast?
I just fixed one on a 90 kick I got, thought the pump was dead but when I took it out I gave it some lov'in with a ball peen ( power still hooked up just out of the tank) it fired right up.
Judging from what was in the bottom of the tank the pump just got stuck ???
That was 2 weeks ago and it still runs fine
Steve :)
-
The other thing to check is the wiring. There's a large junction plug in the harness behind the left tail light that gets corroded, sometimes causing the pump to quit working from lack of power getting to it... The plug becomes especially susceptible to corrosion if there is any holes under the tail light...
-
one last thing is the computer as well. The fuel pump is a common failure in the computer.
-
Have you checked the relay?
-
Look at the post Rust, Rust and more Rust !!
-
well got to the parents house and started the truck up and runs fine ??????
dunno
-
ok so problem has come back and gone again and definately to do with fuel pump or activation of said fuel pump ..... relay under ? I have it intermittently and when it does stall you wait a few seconds after starting turning the key b4 starting and then she fires.
-
gonna start from back to front chenking everything you guys have pointed out too look at
will andy ecm fomr 89 - 94 ish work on this thing?
-
No, early ECMs are different, and I don't know
how interchangable the years are, Zaggy was
saying keep it the same year ECM
-
well definately the fuel pump as the relay is clickin on and off which I wiould assume the ecm is telling it to activate and now the pump is just preoccupied with looking around, so will definately be changing it
thanks again for all the help
-
Thats not a good sign. I think someone else had this problem before (Ed?) and it was the ECU fried.
-
Before you change the fuel pump...
Check if you have fuel pressure...even if it's just disconnecting the supply line and seeing if it squirts.
The problem you're describing may be an ECU issue..if you got pressure, or squirt then it's the ECU if you don't then it's the pump.
ECU's have a pretty narrow interchange, 89-90 specific to automatic/standard, 91-93 Specific to automatic/standard, then 94 up.
Numbers should match and watch out for CAN...US decals as well.
Zag
-
doesn't the ecm tell the relay to turn on and off and the relay tell the pump to pump or not?
so if the pump is not running and the relay is clicking then the ecm should not be in the link?
but will definately check the pressure first...
-
I might have misinterpreted what you said. I read that as the Relay was clicking ON and OFF continuously. Did you mean that it just clicks on and off normally?
There are 2 relays involved, the ECU turns on the main relay when it 'wakes up', that powers the ECU ancillaries and sensors. Then there is the Fuel Pump Relay itself. The fuel pump is switched on for 3 seconds when the ignition is turned on, it is also turned on during cranking and remains ON while there is an ignition trigger signal (ie while the engine is running). It is switched OFF something like 3 secs after the last ignition trigger pulse (can't remember exactly). It shouldn't be switching on and off.
If that is OK then chances are its the pump or the wiring to it.
-
Rhino you are correct for about 3 second and then off and on while cranking but no pumpy is working soooo
I got hte pump today and then cut the hole in the trunk area but the curve of the bod is in the way of getting it out so will have to drop the tank a bit but..............
the are 2 wires on top of the pump housing that are like gooped on ...... it broke what now???? it llooks like the hot lead (red) can I just goop it back on?
-
No, the goop was under coating to prevent rust,
you got to dig thru that stuff to get to the screws
that connect the wires to the pump head.
You are going to have to drop the tank to get the
pump out, you need 4" minimum to get it out, I can
remove mine with out dropping the tank, and I have
4" body lift, it was a little tight tho, and watch out for
that plastic strainer on the bottom of the pickup, it
won't fall off easy, but it does come off.
You are going to have to solder the connections back
on, or get some new connectors that solder on, or crimp
ons, but I hate those things, they always fall off when
you least expect it
Wild
-
well got the pump out and then decided to try it ........works fine...... so checked the relays again and the are fine clikedy clickedy and then I decided to work the wiring back to front found the first connector and it was fine then I got to the one in the rear tail lite and a wire fell off in my hand........no not the pump one but once i trace the color change the wires are shot to hell......did someone tell me to check there?......nah....... I will listen next time any way will clean up wire and try it again probably get rid of the connector all together and hard wire it.
-
then I got to the one in the rear tail lite and a wire fell off in my hand........no not the pump one but once i trace the color change the wires are shot to hell......did someone tell me to check there?......nah.......
The other thing to check is the wiring. There's a large junction plug in the harness behind the left tail light that gets corroded, sometimes causing the pump to quit working from lack of power getting to it... The plug becomes especially susceptible to corrosion if there is any holes under the tail light...
::) ::) ::)
Good luck! ;) ;D