ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: pcguy on November 10, 2005, 02:53:48 PM
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Hi,
New member here looking forward to jumping into the fun stuff with both feet.
Anyways, I just picked up this from a local used car shark
1995 Geo Tracker LSI 16v 1.6l automatic 4x4 w/automatic hubs.
(http://www.handmade-scrunchies.com/images/tracker3.jpg)
The problem I have with it is hesitation and lack of power accelerating from a stop. It seems to bog down like its being held back until you get it up to around 20mph then starts to go pretty good. Once the rpm is up to 3500 it goes like stink (considering its a 1.6l tracker)
I have already done the air filter,spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. Have been considering trying to replace the fuel filter and pcv valve, but I dont see how it could be either of those, considering at high rpm it really goes good. This would sort of rule out a cat problem too wouldnt it?
Suggestions?
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Have you checked the timing?
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Timing is dead on spec listed in service manual.
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Have you checked the computer for codes? Sounds like it maybe a bad o2 sensor? Remember the ecm will automatically adjust timing if something is throwing a code.
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I would assume if there were codes the check engine light would be on right? There are no warning or check lights illuminated on the dash. In a way, I wish there was, it would help guide me to the solution :)
I put a bottle of techron in it, and filled the tank up. I will be driving it on a 60 mile highway trip in the morning to see if that helps any.
I heard on some newer cars (mid 90s on up) that there can be some "wire" in the intake plenum that needs to be cleaned? hence the "induction" service the dealers are pushing :)
Just bear with me, I am not completely up to date on the newer cars. I have a 2000 toyota avalon xls, but it gets taken care of by the dealer....... My only other recent car was a 95 honda del sol vtec. but it was bog simple to work on.
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I had the same problem it was a stuck fuel pressure regulator. Check that out and see if yours is funtioning properly.
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the air flow meter has a small element in it that can get dirty and cause all sorts of running problem. i had a car in my shop where a small pine needle (maybe 1/4 inch long) got into the vane chamber and the car would not come off idle. blew it out and ran like a charm!
derek
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I think I am going to take a further look at both the fuel pressure regulator, and the MAF sensor, might also check the TPS?
I just had it in for a brake job yesterday, ended up costing me $400 for 2 new front rotors, 2 new front calipers, complete brake fluid flush and a new set of pads. Now it stops just like new, so thats a good thing, just wasnt counting on dropping that kind of $$$ on brakes right now....
Also having a major hassle with getting tires for it. all the places I go to have only all season car tires in the size listed as stock, and they wont put bigger ones on it due to "liability" issues. I stopped by the local 4x4 custom shop, they will install a body lift for me for $350 in labor... Might pursue that avenue. I would do the lift myself, but I am sorely lacking in the tools department.
I am sure that there is definitely a problem with the way the engine runs now, since I took it out on the highway to work and back, I calculated the fuel consumption as 16mpg which indicates a problem no? LOL
The hesitation and lumpy idle is more pronounced when its cold too, and there is now black soot on the tailpipe, which indicates running quite rich right?
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Was just looking at tires online, and found what seems like a reasonable all terrain tire for light off roading, BF Goodrich All terrain TA KO 215/75/R15 , will this sized tire work on a stock tracker?
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I stopped by the local 4x4 custom shop, they will install a body lift for me for $350 in labor... Might pursue that avenue. I would do the lift myself, but I am sorely lacking in the tools department.
$350 would get you enough topols to DIY (and likely still have cash left over). Of course you'll then have the tools for the next job ...
A tool set, jack stands, and a floor jack is all it really takes. Modifying the shifter(s) and/or adding bumper extensions may need some welding done (friend or an hour at a shop).
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$350 would get you enough tools to DIY (and likely still have cash left over). Of course you'll then have the tools for the next job ...
I was thinking the same thing too ;D
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I think we got to the bottom of the troubles with this one....
It appears there was some issues with the timing after all. I took it in to the local firestone repair shop and they hooked it up to their diagnostics computer, and discovered the timing was off, even though the marks were correct. So, this is where it gets really ugly. New timing belt, new timing belt cover, new crank and camshaft seals, new water pump etc... for a repair bill totalling $850 out the door.
Stuff like this really makes me hate used car dealerships.
On the upside to this, I don't have to worry about changing the timing belt or water pump, and can feel confident an oil leak wont crop up anytime soon.
On another sidenote, I found a good all terrain tire that will fit the stock tracker with no rubbing. BF Goodrich all terrain K/O in size P215/75/R15 fits just fine and is carried by sears centers across the states, so they are available. You might want to file that under the "nice to know" section somewhere :)
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The "trick" to getting those do no other tire
types, is to take the rim in all by it's self, and
have them put on the tires you want.
I have a shop here that will mount whatever I want
wherever I want it, like a 33x12.5 Swamper on a stock
wheel ;D
I would say go to a 235 and deal with the rubbing, and
it will only rub at almost full lock on stock wheels
Wild
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I swear somtimes I am cursed LOL
I just picked the tracker up from the garage, and when I got it home I heard a "clacking" behind the timing belt cover at idle, quite loud too :)
Now I have to go back in the morning and have them take another look at it. Once they tighten the belt, I am sure it will be fine. Made a HUGE difference in the way it runs. Now smooth acceleration from a stop is effortless, and it purs along at highway speeds.
Once they tighten the belt, I have to go back to the brake shop and have them fix the rocker panel cover they broke putting it on the lift for the brake job.
I swear, some mechanics these days. They just dont give a $%$
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One more reason to learn to do your own work,
tools are cheep and the knowledge is priceless.
Wild
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While normally I would agree with you, I run a small business and time is more important to me, especially considering this is the busiest time of the year for me. I would loose more than what I paid in labor if I wasnt attending to my regular duties. Sometimes it just works out that way. Unfortunate as it is.
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i run 235,s on my kick at stock height on stock wheels with no rubbing at all...bought them at wal-mart.. if your looking for a cheap pair..but still usefull off road...
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i agree with wild - go for the 235's. then if you put the body lift on you wont have to get bigger tires down the road. my 91 kick only rubber a bit in the rear on full compression.
derek
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You guys were right,. I went ahead and found a shop to install a set of all terrain LT235/75R15 tires on it today, and had a 4 wheel alignment done, Fit just fine and no rubbing at all lock to lock, even on bumps. Not really THAT much bigger than the stock 205s were
On a different note, I think I have addressed all the serious problems I found with this vehicle so far. One slightly troubling development, I should run this by you'all
After the timing work was done, I drove it to work on the interstate a couple times, which was steady cruising |removethispart|@ around 80 - 85 mph in the orlando rush hour commute :)
Since doing this a couple times I would assume I have cleaned out any "crud" or carbon in the cylinders etc right?
Now I hear a slightly sharp "tick" sort of noise when it accelerates just off-idle.
Is this anything serious to worry about? This would appear to be the original engine and have around 100k miles on it. Also when it idles a while warmed up and you tap the gas pedal it emits a slight amount of blue smoke. Is that anything to worry about? IE worn valve seals/valve problems?
This just started happening.
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my guess, it has probably has NEVER had the valve lash adjusted ... it's due every 15K, and IMO a necessary job for every new trac/kick ...
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You might want to put a pressure guage
on the oil sender outlet, it's by the filter.
See what your pressure is at idle, should be
at least 10 PSI, if it's lower or bounces all over
you might have a stuck oil pump pressure relief
valve, I had one stick that blew up my turbo in
Moab, had I known I could of saved a lot of time
and engine work.
Wild
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I went ahead and ordered a set of analog gauges for it, along with the standard mounting hardware. Should be a fun weekend project along with the Diesel Train horns I ordered as well. Since the standard horn is kaput, I figured this train horn will do the trick :)
Do you think 135db will get people out of the way?