ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: synergy_58 on December 19, 2005, 06:01:09 AM
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I recently purchased a '97 GEO 2-dr, soft top, 4x4, for my son. It's in great shape but has a few needed services (timing belt and the soft top leaks over the back door).
It's an awsome little rig and extremely fun to drive, I like it! I want one for myself, but I'm thinking the 4-dr model.ÂÂ
1.Does it matter which brand, really?ÂÂ
2.What year is the best year to get and why?
3. What things should I look for when I beat the bush at the mom/pop car lots?
4. What area of the country seems to have the largest selection of used ones for sale?
Any ideas, comments, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. And if anyone knows where I can get a good hard top for my son's, let me know.
Thanks.
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1. it really doesent matter which brand , except that suzuki is better ;D just kidding, there the same machine.
2. my opinion is the 96 is the best one to get , all the parts work perfect , it is OBD2 computer, so it is easy to diagnose.
3. 16valve motor, 5 speed (opinion:more reliable than auto)power steering.
4. they are not very common anywhere because they are such a bitchin ride no one ever wants to part with them
dont be concerned with mileage, just check it close and go with your gut. look for signs of a tow bar, they might have high mileage, but most are solid
there are 3 in our family the one with the least mileage is the one that has the worst susp and drivetrain(bought it for sas, wanted a pretty one)it only has 113,000 mi on it. the other two have over 175,000 and drive out great.
hope this helps
jason
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In my opinion, 1995 is the best.  No Air-bags, OBD-1, simpler to mod.
Be sure that it has the 16-valve engine, and not the 8-valve!
I don't know if any of the Geo 4-doors still had the 8-valve engine in 95, but I DO know the 8-valve was still being sold in 95.
Here's what a 16-valve looks like:
(http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/2404/16valve2ou.jpg)
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Be sure that it has the 16-valve engine, and not the 8-valve!
I don't know if any of the Geo 4-doors still had the 8-valve engine in 95, but I DO know the 8-valve was still being sold in 95.
Why do you recommend against the 8 valve? I've heard some people have preferences for the 8 valve.
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Why do you recommend against the 8 valve? I've heard some people have preferences for the 8 valve.
Simple:
8 valve = 80 HP
16 valve = 96 HP
20% more power. (And believe me, you'll want it!)
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ya I have a '91 4 door with the 8 valver and its gutless! :( oh well its not staying anyways! ;D
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AAAAH! I got some opinions, this is great!
Okay...'95 has the OBD1, '96-OBDII...what are the main differences, basically?
Are there any interior/exterior changes from 95, 96, to 98? any beneficial features, one from the other?
BobZooki...nice engine, clean!
Thanks.
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'96 to '98 Sidekick Sport model was made in Japan. There is no Geo equivalent. It has 1.8l, 16valve engine. Is slightly wider, has 16" wheels, larger brakes. There are a few other small differences. There is apparently a lack of aftermarket parts (headers, etc) for the engine. I was unaware of the differences when I bought mine, but am very happy with it.
For specs:
www.off-road.com/suzuki/sidekick/sidespec.htm
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Are you saying that the SPORT model is the best out of all of them?
So, let me get this straight. Between '96-'98 Chevy Geo does NOT come in a sport model, just the Suzuki Sidekick. But, Geo is still made in the regular 2/4 drs., right?
Does the Sport model get the same MPG as the regular model?
Okay...'95 has the OBD1, '96-OBDII...what are the main differences, basically?
Are there any interior/exterior changes from 95, 96, to 98? any beneficial features, one from the other?
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:) I would get a 95 with a 2.7 V-6 kind of rare but they do exist....... ;D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/StuC/tracker2.jpg)
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obdII systems have better diagnosing abilites than obdI systems. the sensors are a little more sensitive to changes in the exhaust emissions so you have a greater chance of getting a check engine light come on. obdI codes can be cleared by disconnecting the battery - obdII codes stay in the computer until cleared with a scanner. as far as which one is better that would be hard to say. i would by obdI just because it is easier to diagnose and repair.
derek
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Actually, the Evil Empire, Consumer Reports, rated the 95 as most reliable of all years for the Sidekick/Tracker.
The Sidekick Sport is NOT the best, because there are few aftermarket parts available for it (the frame rails are farther apart, so even things like bumpers don't fit).
The 96 is the beginning of the rounded dash:
(http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/385/kickdash964cg.jpg)
The 95 and earlier, had the squared-off dash:
(http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/3299/kickdash956se.jpg)
The 91 and earlier had the very rare, and coveted "Dish Dash" (but no 16 Valve):
(http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/6489/dash912gy.jpg)
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+1 for the 1995 model. Even some 1994's. Especially if you are looking at 4 doors.
1994 and 1995 were still simple (ODB1) and were 16 valve.
No airbags. Airbags started in 1996. (Depends on personal preference here. I hate the idea of airbags while wheeling.)
Plus, my front passengers love my rollercoaster bar. (See Bob's pic above of 1995 dash) ;D
I feel that ODB1 is simpler technology, and easier to diagnose. It just takes one little wire to make a jumper between two connectors on one plug under the hood to diagnose what a check engine light means. Plus, you also have the check engine override switch behind the dash to turn it off when it comes on at mileage intervals.
Personally, I wouldn't recommend a Sport, even though they look cool and have the 1.8 valve. I've heard too many mixed reviews on the engine for it. Some people have had good luck, though.
:)
EDIT: Forgot to mention 1994-1995 trim levels. In the Suzuki line up (not geo) They have the JS, the JX, and the JLX. The JS is a two wheel drive model. The JX is your basic 4wd model. The JLX is 4 wheel drive, but has electronic door locks, power windows, and somewhat nicer interior (like a deluxe model).
EDIT Part Deux: Things to look for at mom/pop lots:
Take a phillips screwdriver with you and pull off a rear tail light. Check for rust.
Lay underneath and check for leaks, rust, etc. Check the bottom of the frame rails and the exhaust for scratches and dents (to see how it was treated/offroaded, etc).
Open the hood and check out the valve cover gasket area. Also, the distributor area, looking for oil leaks, as these are the most common places.
Check the oil, see if it's milky. Check the radiator fluid, see if it's clean.
Start it up, listen to it run. A little sewing machine action is fine, loud noises might be something worth checking out.
Cruise it around, feel up the transmission. Spin hard circles in forward and reverse in a parking lot to feel and listen for CV joint issues.
Put it in 4WD and lock in the hubs if they are manual and drive in a circle in both directions, checking to make sure it goes into 4wd and everything meshes right. If they are auto hubs, listen to the front hubs to see if they make any noise while in 4wd.
Hope this helps!
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Yeah...this helps a lot! Thanks!
Now the hunt begins...I suppose when I find one I'll get some input from you guys before I throw down the cash.
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The 91 and earlier had the very rare, and coveted "Dish Dash" (but no 16 Valve):
([url]http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/6489/dash912gy.jpg[/url])
I love my dish dash. Very useful.
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The 91 and earlier had the very rare, and coveted "Dish Dash" (but no 16 Valve):
([url]http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/6489/dash912gy.jpg[/url])
I like these, I was going to swap one into my 92 last year.....
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Chet, you got a rare 4 door 8 valve, that's
got the low diff gears, I think they are like
5.62s or somthing like that, anyone know
for sure what these are ???
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[Are you saying that the SPORT model is the best out of all of them?}
I'm not saying it is the best choice for everyone. If you want to modify it significantly, it is probably not a good choice because of the lack of aftermarket support. I have not heard any negative reports about engine reliability. The gas mileage is at least as good as the smaller engines--I got 33 mpg on a trip to Colorado last month. If I had known about the lack of aftermarket support when I bought it, I probably would have gotten it anyway because I didn't plan to modify it. However, I imagine the wider frame spacing will make it easier to put a later model engine in it somewhere down the road.
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I love my dish dash. Very useful.
That's the ONE REASON I still wish I had my 91 4-door. But you can keep the 8-valve engine!
EDIT: And I have had over the years:
1991 4 Door JX - traded on a 95
1992 4 Door JX - traded on a 95
1995 4 Door JLX (My wife's - traded on a 99 Grand Vitara)
1995 4 Door JLX - my daily driver - 172,500 miles and going strong
1995 2 Door JX - The Gnewt - Trail Rig - 132,000 Miles, going strong
1999 Grand Vitara - 135,000 miles and still running strong.
I LIKE these things!
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I had a 94 5 speed with an 8v, 2wd though. The engine is going into my sammy tomorrow ;D
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i just bought a 95 geo LSI with only 36k, 1 owner. it was like a new car after they detailed it.
even has auto locking hubs and a factory skidplate, 16 valve.
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i just bought a 95 geo LSI with only 36k, 1 owner. it was like a new car after they detailed it.
even has auto locking hubs and a factory skidplate, 16 valve.   ÂÂ
Careful - there are people here that would kill for that rig... ;D
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i just bought a 95 geo LSI with only 36k, 1 owner. it was like a new car after they detailed it.
even has auto locking hubs and a factory skidplate, 16 valve.   ÂÂ
Careful - there are people here that would kill for that rig...  ;D
its a hardtop though :( wish i could find a way to put a bikini softtop on just the front
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in trackers what is the difference between Lsi and not Lsi ?
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Like a plain burger (cheese & ketchup only) or a double bacon (all the fix'ins)
Sorry about the comparision but it's all I could come up with,
Basic model= nothing but power brakes
Lsi model = power steering,power windows, power locks (you get the picture)
Thinking harder now, it's like Porsche and Volkswagen they come from the same place but one has way more appeal than the other (I won't ask your preferance some people are crazy ;D ;D)
My .02
Steve :)
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Like a plain burger (cheese & ketchup only) or a double bacon (all the fix'ins)
Sorry about the comparision but it's all I could come up with,
Basic model= nothing but power brakes
Lsi model = power steering,power windows, power locks (you get the picture)
Thinking harder now, it's like Porsche and Volkswagen they come from the same place but one has way more appeal than the other (I won't ask your preferance some people are crazy ;D ;D)
My .02
Steve :)
my lsi does not have power windows or door locks
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Mine doesn't have power locks or windows either. Might have started those luxuries in '96. In '95 I think it only meant graphics on the seats and exterior, body colored bumpers, and split rear seats. Least, that's all I can think of.
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i just bought a 95 geo LSI with only 36k, 1 owner. it was like a new car after they detailed it.
even has auto locking hubs and a factory skidplate, 16 valve.   ÂÂ
Careful - there are people here that would kill for that rig...  ;D
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i just bought a 95 geo LSI with only 36k, 1 owner. it was like a new car after they detailed it.
even has auto locking hubs and a factory skidplate, 16 valve.
Careful - there are people here that would kill for that rig... ;D
I like 2 door hard tops. :)
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  Mine doesn't have power locks or windows either. Might have started those luxuries in '96. In '95 I think it only meant graphics on the seats and exterior, body colored bumpers, and split rear seats. Least, that's all I can think of. ÂÂ
LSi had completly different interior it had all the metal inside of the truck covered with plastic trim {not the vinyl covered cardboard like the base} also it had mor comfortable seats with adjustable headrests like the (Sidekick JLX)
p.s. my 92 non LSi has pwr steering and AC whilst my 90 LSi didnt
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i got a 1997 geo tracker 4 dr lsi, no power windows or lock, but has power steering. its my first tracker but 2nd geo. i had a convertable metro out of high school. im in the market for my 2 nd tracker/sidekick, but this has to be 4x4 and 4door.
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I have the last year of the old body style, 98 2 door Tracker. All comments reference the old body.
Odd bits: Geo name used officially through 97, Chevy is 98 on (not all parts suppliers get it right). Best axles (larger diameter): 97-8, maybe including 96 or 95?
NON-LSI for 98: no cruise control (Audiovox has a ~$100 kit in JCWhitney, don't wire the rev limiter wire; use the agressive gain for acceleration); less plastic; single rear seat (mini van mid seat covers work, but the spit buckets are best all around if you are going to put someone back there; junkyard swap); manual hubs (you will want to replace the auto hubs sooner than later on the LSI); stock wheels are 5.5" (they bend so easy you will replace them when you put wider tires on it anyhow). Some years, the non-LSI has a lower HP engine (I think htere are at least three HP levels stock).
Some years have issues with the engine computers failing (96? on are ok in this general regard).
All Tracker's have daytime running lights for 98 (just pull a pin in the steering column connector and 'poof' it's gone). Later models have the cup holder console (which has a tiny little box in it). Parts that say Suzuki on it are expensive. Chevy sourced can be cheaper. My front seats are reasonably comfortable, though I raised the front mount of the driver seat with brackets an inch or so.
Older two doors have a different top than the later two doors. Go to Bestop and see the differences. I think you can change trim pieces to change top models. The old top side windows aren't removable, where the newer ones are. Bestop makes a fun top for the older one that has a seperate front half (should ahve less leaks, and means the bikini top is always on, but better than a conventional one).
Later units are all 5.125:1 axle ratio in manual trans models. Two slight differences in hoods; not enough difference to notice it if they aren't side by side. Grilles on Chevy/Geo's are basically two in "size": later ones intrude forward if that matters (might if you want to build a tight bumper with winch). Fortunately, crash parts are easy to get from the usual imported (Taiwan) parts places. Someone on Ebay is selling folding manual mirrors (LSI is electric).
4 doors have some (all?) different front end sheetmetal and bumpers. I'd guess that is more to do with front end crash standards. Axles are the same as far as I know. Good source for bigger brakes. Rear brakes on non-ABS models have load (axle to frame distance) sensing proportining valve (at least later ones do). Make sure your insurance gives you the $3 discount for anti-lock brakes. If you lift it, make sure to adjust it (or defeat it) as it wont lock the brakes to pass a dyno based emissions test. Headlights aren't cheap, buy a set when you see them (all older body styles have the same light, but different years ahve different mounting assemblies).
Easiest timing belt I've ever changed.
99 and up have a 2" wider track and rear storage bins, can find a 2 liter engined 2 door a lot easier. Just gear it back to a 1.6 liter and add tires (might be more work to lift, but kits are out there -- no experience on this one). Also have the two piece tops (similar to the Bestop mentioned above).
I really have a good time driving my Tracker -- though my wife says only the driver enjoys it (she rarely drives it, prefering her Forester). Reminds me of my old Honda 600 (remember the old Honda cars?). Power living a mile high is anemic, but as the Brit's would say, you just have to row the crash box.
Mine? 235 AT's, 2" Calmnin lift, custom rear bumper & rack w/hitch, older cross member, 4 door front brakes, wheels, cruise control. 148,000 miles. ;D
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I'm with Heather! I want a 2-door tintop! It's the only Sidekick variant I HAVEN'T had!
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I have the last year of the old body style, 98 2 door Tracker. All comments reference the old body.
ÂÂ
<snip>
Mine? 235 AT's, 2" Calmnin lift, custom rear bumper & rack w/hitch, older cross member, 4 door front brakes, wheels, cruise control. 148,000 miles. ;D
Great info dump.
Thanks, Eric
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I'm more familiar with Jeeps so I have a couple questions regarding model years.
I have a 96 2 Door Auto Trans, Manual Hubs, Power Steering, A/C, Power Brakes, 16 Valve MFG 9/95 by Cami Some?thing INC. in Canada.
So what gears do I have? I read that there is a better rear axle (26spline?) that started in 96. What I bought it for was a DD so I didn't have to drive my Jeep so much. Now I wanna start wheelin' this thing. 1.5in coil spacers and a 2in Body lift and some 31s. Anything I should look for when lifting it? I heard about the front axle housing being kinda weak. How does everything else hold up?
Teach me, Grasshoppa must learn now.
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Yeh I had the 1991 Dash it was great. Though I like the 92 and up steering wheel better.
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Price gears first. Axles (if you want to actually gain speed for the road) and transfer case.
Bigger brakes are bolt ons from a 4 door (just buy the whole rear end; front calipers and the caliper mount, then new rotors for the same year, master cylinder is fine).
Some folks have experimented with different front 3rd members (diff housing) and mods, but it seems that what breaks them is a lot of torque (gears and lockers). The 96+ axles are larger at the splines, but not sure about the diameter being larger the whole length. Though I think they will work, Lock-rite doesn't list them in the applications book. I would think that you just re-use your side gears (which is ok, as they sell them without them).