ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: N4TRBL on February 07, 2005, 01:59:24 PM
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I currently have an 87' samurai with a 2" shackle lift and 31" tires and have suffered too long with bump steer and wandering on the street (highway driving can get scary at times) .
My question is will the 4.5" pitman arm from roadless gear be the right choice or should I get the 3" pitman,I'm afraid the 4.5" may be to long of a drop to work properly with only 2 inches of lift.
I'm on a budget so the high end steering systems are out of sight for the moment but I am planning on a SPOA w/wrangler springs in the future.
Any info is greatly appreciated!
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When I read the thread title I thought you were talking about my Ex Girlfriend... ::)
Whenever her Ford Probe would start steering too much in one direction she would "Correct" the steering by "Bumping" it at about 20 Miles Per Hour :o into the curb on the opposite side of the road to which it would veer... :-/
She IS a blonde though... ;D
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Save your money and save up for a high steer system. new or used.
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Yeah, what fuelish said. Drop pitman arms will not help bumpsteer. Get a hi steer and be done. Check out Acme adapters, its the most reasonable.http://www.acmeadapters.com/flash_content/launch.html
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you could also go with a panhard arm
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Thanks guys,The acme crossover steering is reasonable but will it work with spring under??
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Thanks guys,The acme crossover steering is reasonable but will it work with spring under??
I'm interested in that ACME set-up too, but maybe also stay SPUA ( depending on the way the 33"s behave offroad after the Calmini 3" Shackle Reversal, 3" IronMan suspensionRaise and 1" bodyliftkit ), so I sent them an Email about that and to ask how much shipping would be to the Netherlands, Europe.
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They should work, but why not just do it the right way and get rid of the 2" shackle and go spring over ?
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Thanks guys,The acme crossover steering is reasonable but will it work with spring under??
yes, it will. Huppo on this board is running TT's hi steer SPUA. The spring is farther down so why wouldn't it work?
you could also go with a panhard arm
A panhard does nothing for bumpsteer.
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lose the shackles asap, 2" is toooooo much, try new bushings, or difrent steering componets!
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I'm interested in that ACME set-up too, but maybe also stay SPUA ( depending on the way the 33"s behave offroad after the Calmini 3" Shackle Reversal, 3" IronMan suspensionRaise and 1" bodyliftkit ), so I sent them an Email about  that and to  ask how much shipping would be to the Netherlands, Europe.
I think they are using Mercedes steering arms for the crossover. I'm sure you can find some of those over there for cheaper than you can buy the system.
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Thanks for all the advice!! :)
I'll probly be ordering the high steer next week.
As for going spoa I plan on getting the jeep eater setup but that will be a while as I have a baby on the way in a few months and that tends to lighten the proverbial wallet a little...lol.
I installed the 2" shackles about a year ago because I got a set of 31"/ 10.50s for free and wanted a lil more ground clearence for the trail.
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At least you have a plan, the drop arm only fits one type of steering box i.e. power or non power so if you were to buy it and then wanted to go power steering you would of wasted some money,I have trail tough steering on one of my samurai's and rocky roads on the other(there early style, yuck)but they both work good,sky makes a good one also.
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Thanks guys,The acme crossover steering is reasonable but will it work with spring under??
Jeff answered me ( very quick ! ) and it does work SPUA and SPOA ! Shipping is not too bad, so I think I'll be ordering soon ( just have to check how much customs will be  :( )
Received another Email about another question I had. When I decide to go even higher doing SPOA I can use the 3"dropped pitman arm I already have. Jeff also states that the backspcing on the rims should not exceed 3.5 ". He can accomodate for different types of axles and for powersteer.
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Hmmm, can't seem to modify my own message from another computer  :-/ Well, I have a question just to be sure:
When measuring backspace of a rim, do I measure from the flat part where the wheel attaches to the brakedisc to ( eerrrmmm, how do I describe this  ??? ) where the straight piece of wood is I hold over the inboard outside of the rim ? With that last part I mean that I hold a straight piece of wood over the rim, laying it on the rim itself so I get a straight line over the centre to measure to from the flat part of the rim..................................................................I don't even understand it myself when I read it back, but I see no other way of describing it  ;)
[edit] I have to of course keep my 1"wheelspacers in the total sum of backspacing I think ? Well, then it can't be a problem, the rims are only 8" wide anyhow, so 3,5" backspacing will be the least they will be [/edit]
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Why is it I can't edit my own posts when I'm on another computer while I am logged in ???
Found the backspacing"thing" and it is what I thought I'd have to measure, found this pic:
(http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/Images/wheel_dims.jpg)
courtesy of:
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/Tires.shtml#WHEELS
I'll measure tomorrow and order the Hi-Link Extreme if the backspacing is enough !
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If I remember correctly,he said a 2.5 min, that would mean that the farther they stick out the better,his arms are prob. more streight than trail toughs and the others and would hit the inside of the tire and wheel.
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If I remember correctly,he said a 2.5 min, that would mean that the farther they stick out the better,his arms are prob. more streight than trail toughs and the others and would hit the inside of the tire and wheel.
Copy from his Email:
With these "Hi-Link" systems you cannot run a wheel that has more than 3.5
inches of backspacing and you will need to be sure your front axle is not
moved forward as they steer from the front of the tie rod like the factory
original.
I saw another manufacturer mention 2.5", cant rembemer which one, saw them all the last couple of days ;)
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Ya I run both the t.t. and the one from r.road but I run the tie rod in the stock location down below,I heard that the tires wear more on some setups when up above with the drag link,(I run more street than trail and rocks)so my front end being moved forward does not affect anything. and I have run 3.75 and 2.25 back spacing no prob.
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I don't think your problem is with your steering set up.
When you said that you have a 2" shackle lift, are you stating that you have shackles that are 2" longer than stock (1" lift) or 4" longer than stock (2" lift)?
Either way, you have drastically changed your castor angle. A drop Pitman arm, OTT steering system or Z-link is not going to help this at all.
To correct this, you would either need to remove the shackles, or shim the axles.
Quite a few of the zuk vendors sell shims, check out the bottom of this page...
http://www.rocky-road.com/zuksteer.html
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Bump steer is from your drag link not being parallel with your tie rod or front end or the ground when looking at it from level ground.
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Received the Extreme Hi-Steer from Acme today ( got held up |removethispart|@ customs for some time >:( ), hope to install it this Sunday when I start with the SPOA preperations. Just have to see how my back behaves, hurt it very bad yesterday ( took yesterdayafternoon/evening, today and tomorrow off |removethispart|@ work to wrench on the Zuk, and then this happens >:( :-/ )
Of course there will follow a webpage about the install and my experiences with it !
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May seem like a silly question but when you put in your shackles did you add the 3 degree shim correction?
I put shackles on mine and have not yet put the shims in to correct the pinion angle and steering caster. Since I was not told at the time when I ordered the shackles that this was needed I found out later reading about the Fredurai in Petersons 4 wheel off road.
On the highway it can be a pretty hairy drive.
I'm ordering mine next week.
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I would think that a drop pitman arm along with a high steer arm at the knuckle would virtually eliminate bump steer.
(get that drag link parallel with the ground.)
I also know that a mercedes steering arm works on the sammy knuckle. If you get the ball joint hole tapered correctly (from the top) you can even get the drag link higher and thusly more level with the ground.
I might try that route first, over getting a drop pitman arm.
Then if you need an arm, measure how long it needs to be to get the drag link level.
My to cents
~Nate