ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: JollyZuk on December 29, 2017, 09:16:38 AM
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I figure I may as well start a build thread for my 'Kick. It is pretty mild, and will mostly stay that way. I drive it 50+ miles daily, so I have to keep its road manners and economy somewhat unchanged. I bought it from a friend and it already had a 2" spacer lift and 235/75 tires. Since buying it I have replaced the clutch with a Low Range Stage 2 unit, and replaced the clutch cable. It had a PetroWorks dual friction in it when I bought it, and I think I got all of the miles out of it that were possible. My friend's oldest son drove it to high school and learned to drive a stick in it, and his daughter tried to learn in it, so the clutch has seen some abuse. I originally just replaced the clutch, and then the cable...I am now a firm believer in all of the hype about clutch cables...it was still almost undriveable after the clutch replacement, but the cable made it so much more pleasurable to drive!
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While the 'Kick was down for the clutch I decided to make my own version of BRD HNTR's rocker/sliders. I was going to just leave it with a smooth, clean rocker, but I have 2 kids, and some steps sure would help them getting in and out of the rig, so I built some steps onto the rockers. I have only completed the driver's side, but I am glad I haven't installed the passenger yet, because living with it for a couple months has showed some changes that need to be made, and it will sure be easier to modify the passenger side before it is installed. The main change is going to be tapering the bottom of the tubing behind the front wheel. The main portion of the slider is 2x4 rectangular tubing, 14 gauge I believe. The step is 14 gauge 2x2 tubing. I know they are probably not the strongest thing ever built, but tbh, they are more for looks and the step than anything. In the little bit of off road adventure we have had, the plastic rocker trim under the door took very little impact to come loose, and the main focus was a clean way to eliminate that.
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And for a creature comfort/just for fun modification...
I bought a used aluminum toolbox to make a couple of skid plates out of, and had plenty of material, and I wanted to upgrade at least the rear speakers in the rig, so I cut out some replacement panels for the rear where the rear speakers mount and cut it out to install a 6x9 speaker. I had to do some minor massaging to the sheet metal around the original speaker mount, but it all fit fairly nice. I had to make 2 cuts in the aluminum and bend it slightly where the seat belt comes thru it. Once again, I need to finish it...I had the passenger side panel cut out and one of my employees was cleaning the shop and didn't realize it wasn't just scrap and tossed it, so I have to make another passenger side panel. BTW, I think this may be another idea I stole from BRD HNTR, I think he has something similar in his rig...if not his, then. rig I saw a pic of on google.
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n the theme of almost finishing every project, but not quite...I have put off building the passenger side rock rail until I get new tires purchased...My inner redneck is hounding me to go ahead and slap some 31" Mt's on the little bugger and just deal with the consequences. I think to do that I may have to trim the rock rail a little bit at the front...so I am wanting to get the tires on before I build the passenger side so I can just build it correctly before welding it on.
So....boredom sets in...and I had some 2x6 rectangle tubing left over from a project at work, as well as some 2x4 that was extra after cutting out the main portion of the right rail...some odds and ends angle iron...too much idle time...
IT'S BUMPER BUILDING TIME!!!!
So I will let the pictures be self explanatory, any questions, ask away!
I am using the 4 factory bumper mounting points, but I am pretty sure I will need to add to that. I have tow bar brackets bolted to the front most cross member, and I may be moving those to the bumper. If I do, I will probably use the plates for mounting them to bolt on some braces to mount back to the back of the bumper. I am wanting the bumper to be removable, so I don't want to just weld it to the frame. I don't plan on installing a winch in the bumper, but I did install a receiver tube. When I do purchase a winch, I will just put it on a hitch mount. I have much more use for a winch than just getting the Zuk out of a bind, so if I make that purchase, I want it to be useable for multiple jobs and applications.
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So today I had a little time to do some more grinding. And I got the filler extension under the wing. And some more welding. And grinding...And then, I did some more grinding! With a little bit of filler before the paint, I think it is going to turn out nice. And for the money I have tied up in it, I can live with a touch less than perfection.
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So I am getting stoked...I may actually finish my bumper project in under a year! My wife and kids went out of town for the weekend to visit family, so I had plenty of time to spend at the shop working on it. I almost have it finished. There is more welding and grinding to be done, and I have to finish the end of the passenger side, but for the most part, it is all in place. Once I finish the welding and subsequent clean up, I will smear some body putty on and smooth it up.
I also installed some front springs I got at the salvage yard from a 2000 or so 2wd tracker. I don't know if they will give a full 2" of lift, but it definitely gave some lift. I think at this point the length of the stock struts may be keeping it from further lift. I have the Gen 2 springs and 2" spacers on the front, but only 2" spacers on stock struts.
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You are moving right along for a good adventure rig. 31 inch tires will take a bite out of the power, which means shifting more often on the hills. And your bumper design is close enough to mine that you may have a problems with approach to large objects, and your bumper hits before your tire starts to climb. (First time in Moab my wife's joke was if I could get past my bumper, I could climb it.) The trick is to approach at an angle, then just before hitting turn into the object so your tire sticks out from the side of the bumper and you can start climbing over/onto the object. (That is not what approach angle is, but what it will mean to you.) That or stacking rocks.
You will find that your steps will work good to use as a pivot point to go around tall objects that could push in the side of your rig.
I did not realize how much back, end of the road trips, with improvised turn arounds, meant to my kids (way back when they were impressionable by me), so have fun and enjoy the adventures.
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I am hoping I haven’t compromised my approach angle too much! It should definitely be better than the stock bumper. It fits much closer to the body than the original and it is higher on the ends. I am working on an idea to move the spindle forward and out, different than the Hagen mod.
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On my build page on page 10 is how I moved mine, which is similar to how Muskegtracker did it on "Mr T" build.
It is critical that you move the ball joint holes the exact same amount. I measured, marked, and drilled my plates individually, and am slightly off. That will change you caster and cause it to want to turn toward the one with the greater caster. If you drill the plates tacked together, then holes will be exactly the same.
I ran 31's on mine without the modification.
Kreator makes a Coilover strut replacement, and moves the ball joint forward and outward. Derek has one on his 4 door, and it is smooth. It is expensive, but two complete coilover shocks and springs aren't cheap. I really like the possibilities of his kit.
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I was thinking of doing pretty much the exact thing you did BRD. I was probably going to use 1"x4" stock, primarily because I have a random stick of it laying around. I am probably buying a parts rig in the near future, so I will then have a spare set of control arms to play with. I have to drive the rig to work every day, so long term tear downs don't work out well. I need to then figure out what I need dimensionally out of the modification so I can use the left half shaft on the right...I also need to look at your front diff drop again...I am needing to drop mine, but I want to figure something out to drop the entire thing and keep it level...I don't like the idea of tipping the diff back...seems like you could be compromising longevity by letting the pinion bearing be a little bit dry.
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I was thinking of doing pretty much the exact thing you did BRD. I was probably going to use 1"x4" stock, primarily because I have a random stick of it laying around. I am probably buying a parts rig in the near future, so I will then have a spare set of control arms to play with. I have to drive the rig to work every day, so long term tear downs don't work out well. I need to then figure out what I need dimensionally out of the modification so I can use the left half shaft on the right...I also need to look at your front diff drop again...I am needing to drop mine, but I want to figure something out to drop the entire thing and keep it level...I don't like the idea of tipping the diff back...seems like you could be compromising longevity by letting the pinion bearing be a little bit dry.
I was probably going to use 1"x4" stock, primarily because I have a random stick of it laying around.
I had a scrap plate of 3/8 steel that was big enough for both sides. I moved mine forward 1 1/2", and then had to move it out 3/4". PierPaul computed thos numbers on his computer and said they were correct. And I have been running on them for six years.
I am needing to drop mine, but I want to figure something out to drop the entire thing and keep it level.
I dropped my middle crossmember a half inch, so my diff is still angled a little. So I had the same opinion as yours, and I would reccoment dropping it 1".. As you go with longer springs and spacers up front, you have to drop the diff further to keep the CV angles within their limits. Eventually you run out of drop on the struts. I had thought of cutting a section out of the strut towers to keep from using spacers and be able to run in middle of the struts limits. That can affect both the camber and castoer of the front end.
seems like you could be compromising longevity by letting the pinion bearing be a little bit dry
Some raise the front of their rigs when checking diff oil level so it will be actuall level at that time. Then they are actually running with a higher level in the gears. Unless you forget to unlock your hubs the front diff see very little useage comparitively to the miles you run it as a dd. (Although I have run from Seattle to Portland 4wd in the snow most of the way.)
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seems like you could be compromising longevity by letting the pinion bearing be a little bit dry.
I just thought I would mention it - this is easily resolved by jacking the front of the vehicle up when filling the front axle - this was actually a recommended procedure on the early Grand Vitaras when Suzuki figured out that they had messed up on the levels, they eventually released a new axle housing that had the fill hole almost an inch higher.
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Brd , was that the only added dimensions you needed to run the driver shaft on the right? That is an eventual goal, so anything I do that can move me in that direction, I want to do.
Fordem, that sounds like a Dodge issue on 6 speed transmissions in diesel pick ups. To get enough fluid in some of them to keep them from becoming a grenade, you filled with fluid to the top of the fill plug, then remove the shifter and add 2 more quarts.
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Brd , was that the only added dimensions you needed to run the driver shaft on the right? That is an eventual goal, so anything I do that can move me in that direction, I want to do.
Fordem, that sounds like a Dodge issue on 6 speed transmissions in diesel pick ups. To get enough fluid in some of them to keep them from becoming a grenade, you filled with fluid to the top of the fill plug, then remove the shifter and add 2 more quarts.
I made the change to be able to fit 33's, which required more tire clearance at firewall. After moving ball joint forward, the CV joints were too compressed, so then moved it outward 3/4". The stub axle seems to be everyone's personal creation, in that they are cutoff and a flange is welded on. If they are cut too short, the flange bolts will hit on the Diff mount bolts. If cut too long, the CV will be running at full compression and fail early.
I found a machinists to make ours, and he turned and fitted them in a lathe and then trued it up after welding.
You should be able to run them on stock suspension. I would also run the polyurethane bushing inside the seal, it helps with seal life.
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I am looking at buying a parts rig, and will have an extra drivers side stub if I do...can you just run the driver side stub on the passenger side?
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I am looking at buying a parts rig, and will have an extra drivers side stub if I do...can you just run the driver side stub on the passenger side?
Yes you could run the stub axle shaft and ds CV without other modifications.
Drivers side on the differential has a "about" 14 inch axle shaft with three lobes on it. There is a CV shaft bolted to the three lobes that goes outward to the wheel hub. On the Passenger side there is a double splined CV shaft that slip into the differential and wheel hub both. It is easier to change the Drivers side CV shaft because it can be unbolted from the differential. On the passenger side the easy way is to remove the ball joint and lifting the hub up and outward slip the CV from the differential and then wheel hub for replacement.
Now, if you take the ps CV shaft and cut it off just at the base of the CV cup, then take a ds differential axle cut the lobe off, and weld that lobe onto the stubby axle end you just made, you will have a ps stubby axle shaft. Now the ds CV will bolt onto the ps stubby alxe and you won't have to tear the whole ps apart to change broken CV's. So now you only have to carry one CV shaft (because it will work on either side) and is much easier changing.
The real trick is to measure the total compressed length of the ps CV shaft, then measure the comp-ressed length of the ds CV shaft. The difference is the length of your new stub shaft with the lobe welded in place. (If you weld is not true it will wobble.)
Just remember.
Every modification begets another modification. Always!
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Lots of good information BRD HNTR. The cv mod has been on my list for a while. I also want to make the move to larger tires.
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I ran my stub axle for about 5 years with two leaking seals on ps. I installed a poly bushing behind the seal last year (?), and think that it should improve seal life. I made mine. but Bits for
Vits is the only place I have found that have them. They will help on standard ps also.
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I have finally nearly finished the bumper! I have some grinding on the back side to finish, and a cap for the 2x6 tubing in the hitch opening, but it is pretty much what it is going to be!
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So more bumper progress. I got all the welding finished. I could still spend a lot of time grinding welds on the back side, but I am just tired. Since March started, I have had a bout of cellulitis, wife had a baby, gallbladder attack and subsequent removal, uncle that raised me diagnosed with blood cancer...it has been a long spring!!! So more than anything I decided that while the bumper is not finished, I am done for now. I slapped a quick coat of black paint on it and put the grille back in. I am overall happy with how it turned out, and eventually I have a few more things to do to it.
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I tackled a little project today I had been pondering on. I had put the Gen 2 Tracker springs up front and had the factory 4 door springs off the front. I had compared some specs, and while the front springs are a little bit shorter than the rears, they are a heavier rate, and installed heights were similar. I feel like the rear springs on the ‘Kick were a bit on the saggy side, and I routinely haul tools and building materials in the interior, and drag a small trailer regularly. It rides super spongy when hooked to a trailer, so I figured the extra spring rate might help that. So some pictures. The picture with the hitch...I dollied that trailer down, picking it up just enough to clear when I pulled away...pulled the rig in the shop, installed springs and backed back up to the trailer to see how much, if any, additional lift I gained.
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Another small progress item...the ‘Kick has a Grant GT steering wheel...I like it, but the Allen head screws around the hub had long since lost all their paint, and were rusty and nasty, and the wheel was just dingy. I pulled it off and gave the whole mess a repaint yesterday.
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The steering wheel looks great. I think small projects are good ways to keep progress moving. Several small projects make a lot of difference, especially when we don't have time to do big projects.
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So a slow go on my ‘Kick. I pulled the trans and t-case chasing a noise. Tore down the case and replaced the input shaft bearing. Tore down trans and found the counter shaft bearings were toast. I tried beating, heating and pressing the middle bearing inner race off of the counter shaft to no avail, and decided it was in good enough shape and determined enough that I would just let it be. Installed new bearings, and reinstalled the countershaft to the lower trans case. At this point I discovered that somewhere in all the bearing, beating and and pressing I managed to slightly bend the countershaft. It now has just a few thousandths of runout, but it is enough that when the trans is reassembled that it locks up the shafts. So on to finding a new trans. Also about this same time I was laid off and went to work for a friend of mine, but now work 400 miles from home. So the Suzuki has hit the back burner. My new job provides a vehicle to drive, so that pushes it even farther down the list of things to do my few days home.
But alas, not all is lost! My travels for work brought me into contact with an abandoned XL7! It had been abandoned by a former employee at a yard close to where I am working. I stopped in and asked about it, and was told the employee left one day and never returned, and had flat disappeared, and if I could get the vehicle off the property, have at it! I estimate it has been sitting for atleast a year. But it is 4x4, and from what I can tell, has a steel front diff! It is super rough, busted rear glass, no keys, no battery, etc. But it does have all 4 factory aluminum wheels with it also. My plan is to pull the front diff to put in the ‘Kick, and possibly the rear. I am pretty sure I have some gear noise in my rear diff, so it needs replaced anyways. Hopefully soon I can start taking measurements and see what that swap will entail. I would like to go with the 4 link from the XL7 into my ‘Kick, but I have some head scratching to do first.
Quick question on the XL7, it is a 2003 model. Do these have any kind of anti theft? I was thinking of sticking a battery in it and trying to hot wire it to see if the motor and trans are any good.
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So I unloaded the XL7 today, thru a battery in it and hotwired it. It fired right up! It has 186k miles and a wicked timing chain slap. Now if I can find 2 front tires, and get the shifter and column unlocked I can take it for a drive.
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If I'm reading this right you have front springs installed in the rear of the sidekick?
Would the springs pop out offroading?
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I am not sure on the springs coming out. It has been the other “off-road” for the past year, so I am not sure, and don’t have a lot of miles on it with those springs. One of the reasons I put that heavy a spring in the back is at the time for work I was almost daily dragging a trailer and kept it loaded with tools.
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Well, I have been on Suzuki hiatus for awhile. Between being laid off, starting a business, taking a dream job and moving to another state to do so, I think I am finally ready to resurrect the old rig. I acquired an 03 XL7 while working in the West Texas oil patch, and then bought a 1997 Sidekick as a parts rig I found after moving to Oklahoma. So, recap...I pulled the trans from my 1995 Kick to fix some noise. Somehow managed to warp the countershaft while replacing bearings. So a replacement trans was in order. Now I have it, just need to start dismantling the parts rig. It has the same drive train as my rig, 16V, 5 Spd, 4x4, also a 4 door. The parts rig also has factory manual hubs, which I can use to replace my auto hubs. Also, it has a good driver side half shaft to replace my shot unit. So we have more than just a trans in the rig! Oh, and last but not least, FACTORY ROOF RACK! That's right, 4 door factory roof rack. Maybe more exciting than the trans, manual hubs, etc, is the roof rack! Of course, as you all can guess, the exhaust manifold on my parts rig 16 valve motor is cracked where the #4 port meets the rest of the manifold. So hopefully in short order I will be rolling in my Zuk again!
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So I finally got my lazy butt in gear and got the trans and case in my Zuk today! I had pulled them out of the parts rig a few months ago, and they have been on the ground under my rig just waiting since then. They are in, crossmember, clutch cable, etc...fired it up for the first time in over 2 years, and it was so exciting! I have to replace output seals on the t-case, install driveshafts and shifters, fluid in trans and case, and I think it is ready for a shake down! Of course, I have to clean it out also...packed it full of stuff from my shop when we moved in 2019, so have to find a home for all the stuff inside of the ole thing. It was super exciting to hear it snort and roar to life again!
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Well, I got to drive the Zuk for a couple days. I replaced the front u joint in the rear drive shaft and apparently did not get 2 of the snap rings fully seated, because a mile down the road lost 2 caps. So back to the house and parked. I decided this was as good a time as any to go ahead and replace the rear end. Mine has had a lot of noise, and some very excessive backlash. So working on that. Also installing XL7 rear springs while it is apart. As part of that, thinking about cutting the spring perches off of the XL7 rear end to install on mine, as well as possibly moving the shock mounts higher. I am trying to do things that will help me with the ultimate goal of 4 linking the rear.
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So I have had my Sidekick back together and driving it for a couple of months now. I swapped the rear diff out of my parts rig and got my driveshaft/u-joint issue sorted. It has been so much fun having it back! It just slipped right back into its place as my daily after a 2.5 year hiatus! The biggest advantage is having it to use on my property and making runs to town and back (50-60 mile round trip) and now I can keep my diesel pickup parked more. I still have to get the driver half shaft installed to have the 4x4 operational, as well as swap out to the Aisin manual hubs my parts rig had. No for the icing on the cake! Not only did the parts rig I paid $200 for have the transmission and rear diff I needed to get the little Beastie on the road, it also had a ROOF RACK!!!!
Next on the list is a power window modification. My rig is a JLX with all the options. The driver door panel was trashed when I got the rig. The parts rig has decent door panels in it, users for now, and much easier to repair/recover down the road. I swapped in the driver panel yesterday. I have some switches I got off amazon and am planning to make a switch panel to sit between the shifters for the power window switches. Pics will come when that is sorted.
We are flat towing it to Angel Fire with us next week to hit some trails/forest roads/whatever you call them. Super excited to get back to having fun with this rig!
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Congrats on the roof rack. I like having mine. I had to replace all the hardware on the clamps. It now has 316L bolts and 304 washers. I haven't done the crossbar hardware yet. They were all rusted together.
My old rig was a loaded JLX Sport. This one isnt, so it doesn't have Cruise. I added the rear power locks and windows from the JLX. I tried to add the Cruise, but must have missed a pin on the cruise control tie in to the wiring harness.
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Mine has functioning cruise on it, and I love it! It may become my nemesis though, as I may soon have to replace the multifunction switch because the headlight portion is having issues. A cruise equipped switch is not available for the 88-95 units, at least not where I have looked.
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Setup an eBay watch reminder. I got lucky and found a new one for a very good price. I had hunted for a couple of years, before it showed up. I pulled the wiring from the old Sport, made notes on which pins, and ran the wiring, but I must have missed something.
If you can find a new non cruise assembly we can talk about a trade. Mine is becoming a trail rig with the occasional street use. It is still registered, so I can make long trips and not have to tow it. The new one is nice, since it has a crisp transition for turn signals, high beam, etc.
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I am not sure what the difference is, but there is some difference between 88-95 and 96-98 switches. I know there is a cosmetic difference, but not sure if it is more than that or not. Last night I installed a relay kit on the headlights, so now all the switch is doing is controlling relays. I am hoping that maybe this will take some of the load and heat off of the factory switch and maybe pull a little bit more life out of it!
I am waiting on a 120 amp relay and a fuse block to arrive this week from Amazon and I will dive off into the power window switches. I am moving them off of the door panels so I can use the non-power door cards off of my parts rig. Also, my parts rig has a different rear section of the center console with 2 cupholders. I really want to use that because that gives me a total of 2 cupholders in the rig now, and they are badly needed! I think I am just going to move the rear window switches to the ash tray area on the back of the console and make a plate of some sort for them to sit in. That makes them accessible from the front and rear easily enough and I can eliminate the door switches. I still am working out a mount for the front switches and door lock switch. I currently do not have the front part of the console installed, and I think I am going to keep it that way, so looking at something between the shifters.
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So I am thrashing to finish up a few things on the Zuk. We are flat towing it to New Mexico with us later this week for our vacation and want to do a little bit of wheeling. I got the driver side front half shaft installed finally. While at it I decided to go ahead and replace the front struts. I have had a set of GM W-body struts laying around for a few months. Got them on closeout from RockAuto for less than $10 each (Monroe SensaTrac). Working out just how much notching to do on the bolt holes where I can get it aligned somewhat correct. Debating on whether or not I am going to mess with installing the manual hubs before we leave or not. The hubs came off my parts rig and have been sitting in the garage gathering dust for several months. I am not sure if I have the time to take them apart and clean/grease them up before we leave. I still have to clean the rig out, swap out the passenger seat, and a few other misc items before we leave Thursday. Hopefully I can get some updated pictures, and pictures of the strut install also!
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So time for some pics and updates before we hit the road for New Mexico...
I finally installed the manual locking hubs off of the parts rig. I was thinking they were Aisin hubs, but after looking them over, I am not sure what they are. They do have "Made in USA" stamped on them.
I have been looking online for a fuse block to add to under the hood for accessories. Already I had 2 extra connections hooked up to the battery, 1 for the headlight relay harness and another for the electric fan harness. I have installed "military" style battery terminals, so adding things is not a big deal, it just starts looking messy after adding a few things. I thought about using the PDC block out of the parts rig, so I went to look at it. Turns out the 1997 used a PDC block with a nifty bracket that bolts to the top of the passenger strut tower, while my 1995 uses a PDC bolted to the fender. So I pulled the PDC off the parts unit and installed it on mine. Now I have an 8 circuit fuse block that has an additional 80 amp main fuse which I used to power the fuse block/relay I put under the dash to power Ignition controlled add-on circuits! I am happier than a pig in slop now! I may still clean up the install some, but I am super happy with how it turned out, especially for minimal time invested and no funds required.
Lastly, a gratuitous shot showing off the freshly installed roof rack! The rack is probably coming off after vacation so I can clean it up and repaint, but I could not help myself, it just looks too good for it to not be on there, in any condition!
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So after all the work, finally let the Zuk do what it was made for! Went with the fam to Red River, NM and we hit the Goose Lake trail. I was proud of the rig. Going up we had to use low range, but I left the front hubs unlocked. You have to cross the Red River at the head of the trail, and that was the only real challenge. A more judicious person would have probably not made the crossing, as the water was over the headlights. The best part, on the way down the DW started asking about what we could do going forward to make the Zuk more capable when tackling trails. For those who have not been there...Goose Lake is a mountain lake at 11,700'. It was absolutely magnificent. Now gratuitous Zuk/Family pics and splashing water shots!
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Yes you could run the stub axle shaft and ds CV without other modifications.
Drivers side on the differential has a "about" 14 inch axle shaft with three lobes on it. There is a CV shaft bolted to the three lobes that goes outward to the wheel hub. On the Passenger side there is a double splined CV shaft that slip into the differential and wheel hub both. It is easier to change the Drivers side CV shaft because it can be unbolted from the differential. On the passenger side the easy way is to remove the ball joint and lifting the hub up and outward slip the CV from the differential and then wheel hub for replacement.
Now, if you take the ps CV shaft and cut it off just at the base of the CV cup, then take a ds differential axle cut the lobe off, and weld that lobe onto the stubby axle end you just made, you will have a ps stubby axle shaft. Now the ds CV will bolt onto the ps stubby alxe and you won't have to tear the whole ps apart to change broken CV's. So now you only have to carry one CV shaft (because it will work on either side) and is much easier changing.
The real trick is to measure the total compressed length of the ps CV shaft, then measure the comp-ressed length of the ds CV shaft. The difference is the length of your new stub shaft with the lobe welded in place. (If you weld is not true it will wobble.)
Just remember.
Every modification begets another modification. Always!
I thought the cv axles were different lengths. I want to do the stubby cv axle mod on my rig and I am confused a little.
The drivers cv will work on both sides if I make a stubby adapter the right length?
I seen this stubby adapter with counter sunk holes looks like the one I need? Or does anyone have measurements of the length to cut each before you weld?
|removethispart|@jollyZuk your rig is looking awesome. I love the oem rack I need to find one for my 2dr
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It looks like that would be what is needed. Where is that seller located? I am assuming they are working on RHD vehicles.
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It looks like that would be what is needed. Where is that seller located? I am assuming they are working on RHD vehicles.
Not sure I sent them a email. I know vit mods makes these adapters too
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It's awesome seeing you out and about with the family. My youngest likes going off road with me. As another ginger, great looking family. I have missed driving mine. I have been driving other toys, while this one was far away in Utah. Most of the reason is that the Sidekick is so much more fun to drive in Utah.
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Toys- If I do the axle swap on mine, I will probably just build my own, as I have all the tools necessary. I just have to decide if there is any reason to swap out the front diff from my 97 parts rig first. For what I do with the rig, I just don't see that much advantage of 22 vs 26 spline axles. I do plan to keep the diff as a spare, but I can use the pieces to have a stub axle ready and waiting with it.
Ridjo- It has really been a blast! We got cut short on our adventure today. We were about halfway to Greenie Peak when the heat from the exhaust melted the outer sheath on the clutch cable and we lost clutch usage. Luckily, we were at a place that was easy to turn around when I discovered the issue, so we were able to get turned around and just crawl back down the track in low gear into town. A few hose clamps and a couple pieces of metal rod, and she is ready to go again! Or at least drivable to put around town until we get home and get a new clutch cable ordered. I did check the AutoZone in Taos where I bought the hose clamps and they had 1 of the later model clutch cables in stock! I do have the bracket off my parts rig to convert to the later style clutch cable, and I may look into it. They tend to be less $$ than the older style.
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So something of a sad update on our New Mexico adventure...On Tuesday we were on our way to Greenie Peak outside of Red River, and having a great go of it. I was running in 4 Lo, hubs unlocked, crawling up the trail. We came to a split in the trail and stopped to double check the map and make sure we were heading the right way when I noticed I had no control of the clutch! I was pretty sure I knew what the culprit was, and checked the clutch cable. Where it passes by the exhaust manifold, it had gotten hot enough to melt the outer sheathing and render the cable useless! The PO of my 'Kick had a second 'Kick he had built and used it for off road adventuring. He had told me when we were chatting one time he had melted his clutch cable, not one, but twice under similar circumstances. He blamed the header he had installed. But he said crawling in 1st gear, lo range he lost his clutch. He said this happened at the same place on the same track twice! Well, we got turned around, and nursed back down to Red River in low gear, having all the fun that comes with not being able to disengage the clutch. I was able to make a field repair with some metal rod and half dozen hose clamps. Now the clutch is working as well as it did before until I can get a new cable. Other than that, we had a lot of fun, and even with the small incident, it did not leave us stranded!
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Too bad the issue interrupted the family fun. I am glad that you weren't left stranded. Unfortunately these vehicles are starting to need more than just normal preventive maintenance.
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So an update on the "Daily Driver" front and the Suzuki.
We had no issues pulling it home from New Mexico, and I have continued driving it almost daily. Over the weekend my wife drove it 400 miles to meet us at a family reunion in Kansas. Nary a hiccup, just lack of functional air conditioning! We put the tow bar on it and drug it home behind our fifth wheel. It is doing quite well fulfilling both of its functions!
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It has been awhile since posting last...been continuing flogging on the ole Zuk. It is still my daily driver. I have recently decided I need get after some maintenance. I have ordered ball joints and tie rods to rebuild the front end. I put GM W-body struts on the front awhile back, and have never got the cambe r set where I want it, so I need to address that. I also want to widen the front end so I can do the left axle swap on the right side. I have looked into the Hagen mod, but I would also like to move the front tires forward more. I have a parts rig that I pulled the front control arms off of. I am modifiying them to move the ball joint out and forward. I don't have a scientific method for how I chose the placement, just convenience. Here are pics...
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Having troubles posting pics...
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So, the pics I think are explanatory. I am adding onto the end of the control arm to set the ball joint out and forward. I have got the top and bottom plates welded on. I need to finish boxing the addition. I think I am also going to weld a brace across the top and bottom plates. I am also planning to modify the spring pockets in the control arms BRD_HNTR style. I guess the good new is if this doesn't work out, I still have my original, unmodified controls arms I can go back with. Also, as part of my modifications, I am trying to see about using XL7 front brakes on the front. I have an XL7 parts rig, so I pulled the front hubs and spindles off of it to try and see what can be adapted. The XL7 spindle would mount on a Sidekick. The ball joint taper is the same, the bolt pattern for the strut mount is the same, and the tie rod taper works out. The problem is the tie rod mount is about 2" lower on the XL7 spindle. This would make an even steeper angle between the drag link and outer tie rod. I don't know what kind of effect that would have on the handling of the rig. I have some more disassembly to do to check compatibility, but I think I can mount the XL7 caliper and use a Sidekick Sport rotor. The main difference between the XL7 rotor and Sport rotor is the offset from the wheel mounting surface to the to the front friction surface of the rotor. But more on that later..