Ok Im showing CHECK ENGINE LIGHT on my 96
pulling the code reveals MAF Sensor
idle is slow but not dying, typical gasoline smell
will stall "occasionally" but not very often
basically running "rich" and choking the engine


So I got curious and pulled a working MAF Sensor out of a 2000
dropped it in and the code went away
gas smell gone too
was even able to drive it 40+ miles w/o problems
then it started to run lean
with jerking/sputtering and finally, stalling

(which is weird because the 2000 has a slightly more powerful engine,
so LOGICALLY it should be putting in more gas not less)

so I put back my old sensor and it went back to how it was
so my question is...



When I get a new (96) MAF Sensor, do you think it will
show the same problems as it did with the 2000 sensor?

The sensor for the 2000 is designed for a different fuel maping may have just taken 40 miles for the addaption to send it lean.Have you tried dis connecting your MAF sensor and seeing if it runs better sometimes this is a good (shade tree) test.

Do a search on here for MAF and see what others have already said/tried.  You never know.

Reset the ECM and see if it goes back to running OK on the default settings. The MAF on the 2.0ltr may be a different impedance to the one on the 1.6 so it could go rich/lean whatever.

Not sure if the 1.6 MAF is a heated wire type,
but if it is, and has been run with the air intake
hose disconnected, it may have burned the wire
out without getting the airflow to cool it.

1.6 and 2.0 MAF units would need to have the
same part or model # to be a real test.

Checked the O2 sensor on this beast ?

Wild

Not sure if the 1.6 MAF is a heated wire type,
but if it is, and has been run with the air intake
hose disconnected, it may have burned the wire
out without getting the airflow to cool it.

I thiiink I know what you mean, but not quite
you mind explaining a bit?

     A quick explanation of what wildgoody is talking about. I am not 100% but you'll get the idea.
     A thin wire runs across the center of the MAF "tube". This is heated but is cooled by the incoming air. It is cooled more with a lot of air flow and less when not as much is flowing. This is how the computer monitors the air flow to determine how much fuel to give for the proper ratio.
     I believe he is is saying that if it was run disconnected(the MAF) the wire would receive no air flow causing it to overheat and burn out. Think of it kind of like an air cooled light bulb. It would need air flow over the filament or it would burn out. HTH

     A quick explanation of what wildgoody is talking about. I am not 100% but you'll get the idea.
     A thin wire runs across the center of the MAF "tube". This is heated but is cooled by the incoming air. It is cooled more with a lot of air flow and less when not as much is flowing. This is how the computer monitors the air flow to determine how much fuel to give for the proper ratio.
     I believe he is is saying that if it was run disconnected(the MAF) the wire would receive no air flow causing it to overheat and burn out. Think of it kind of like an air cooled light bulb. It would need air flow over the filament or it would burn out. HTH

this was the part that was getting me
"and has been run with the air intake hose disconnected, "
My IAT has been connected to my intake for years now,
seems the MAF is the only one with any real happenings.

The hot wire sensors have been known to break from vibration. They can also become contaminated, minute particles of dirt, fuel or oil can get burnt onto the wire. I believe some people have had some success in cleaning them, try a Google.

The hot wire sensors have been known to break from vibration. They can also become contaminated, minute particles of dirt, fuel or oil can get burnt onto the wire. I believe some people have had some success in cleaning them, try a Google.

awesome 

"you learn something new everyday"

I am happy that mine is the early 8 valve motor with the vacuum advance(ghetto but reliable) it doesnt make as much power as the 16valve, and I have heard stories of the ECM going out, but it is not OBD 2 or 1, so it is very simple and samurai motor like (it even sounds the same )

well, sprayed it with electrical cleaner

didnt work 


guess I have to call around for a replacement

unless...


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I but it is not OBD 2 or 1

It is categorised as OBD1. However there is no specific standard for this unlike OBDII.