I powered washed the back of the engine and found that where my distributor mounts to the engine it is leaking. Anything I should watch for when I change the gasket or tips before i get started?
Thanks

Not that I can think of.  It is pretty straight forward and easy.  Quick fix.

Start by turning the engine by hand to TDC,
makes getting the dizzy back in much easier.

Pull the dizzy allthe way out, 3 bolts on the angle
housing, clean well, put ont he new O-ring and use
a slight alount of silicone to seal it well, only takes
a dab as this is a close fit.

Stab the dizzy back in to the location, and check
your timing what you are finished, have fun

Good Luck
Wild

if you look under ack's faq's he's got deteiled info on how to do it,, that's a handy little peice of info yah got there ack.. i know it's helped me out a few times...(

Thanks for the info guys, the article at ACK's was for a sami....I thinkt the distributor has the same set up on a Tracker, is this correct? I should only need to change 2 o-rings, the one  between the distributor and the housing and the o-ring between the housing and the head.
thanks
Jim

take a scribe or felt pen and mark the location of the dist. to mount location to help in relocation. And also mark the location of the rotor to the cap. This way it really doesn't matter where the engine is at cycle wise.

I have ever only had a problem with the adapter to head o-ring. the other smaller one doesn't seem to leak as much.

Mechanically speaking, the TracKick and Samurai distributor are, physically, very similar.
 

Follow especially what wildgoody's and chet's post say --

Use silicone grease to hold the large o-ring in place on the head so you don't crush it and start another leak.

Before disassembling the distributor, carefully mark the positon of the distributor adjustment bolt AND where the rotor is pointing relative to the distributor case.  That way, when you put it all back together, you will be exactly where you were - timing wise- when you started if you re-match all the marks.   You may need to remove and rotate the rotor a few times to get it dead-on but at least you can eventually get it to match the original position...

Take it from a guy who has NOT marked then disassembled -- it ain't no fun spending hours trying to get the timing back. 

Thanks for those kind words, da_tub!

Thanks again, I'll pick up the o-rings and make sure I mark everything. I'll give it a go this weekend.

Isn't there someone here selling O-rings for these in a slight oversize(thickness)? I read somewhere the very common problem is due to the original Suzuki O-ring being a little too small causing a leak after time.