Can anyone tell me if your Check Engine Light comes on at initial startup? Every other car I have owned would flash the CEL for a couple seconds after turning the key switch to on. My trac does not do this. I think it either burnt out or someone took it out because they got sick of looking at it. I never tried to pull the codes because I don't think the light works.

I noticed over the winter when I went to warm it up, after it started the idle would go up to ~1500 RPM then drop almost instantly to ~800 like it didn't know how cold it was outside. This leads me to think the coolant temp senser might be bad. It also runs real rich, so bad that if it idles in one spot for 5mins there is a black spot on the ground from the unburnt fuel. And it is not oil, I know because my bronco did the same thing until I got the carb adjusted right.

Now that gas is going up to if not more than $3/gal I would like to get a little better MPG out of my trac. When it was stock, I was getting about 125 miles out of a tank. That sucks. Now that it is lifted with 31's it actually went up  I now get 130 out of a tank and that is with a slow speedo. Exactlly the opposite of what everyone told me would happen, weird.

It needs a good tune up, I know that will increase MPG but I still wonder about that CEL. Sorry for being so long winded, I get real detailed. And it's an auto if that makes a difference.

Thanks!

You are correct, the check engine light will flash on solid for 3-5 seconds during startup

Sound like a burnt bulb and alot more fun there

I noticed over the winter when I went to warm it up, after it started the idle would go up to ~1500 RPM then drop almost instantly to ~800 like it didn't know how cold it was outside.

I think they all do that, mine has done it from new, there is a throttle opener valve that opens the throttle during starting. Give it a good tune up and check the bulb. If the bulb is OK then check the wiring through, if that is OK then the ECU may be dead and running on default settings.

Yeah...I was thinking it felt like it is running in "limp" mode. There is a huge loss of power between 2k-3k but after that it is real strong up to about 5500. On my Probe I can use a test light in the diagnostic port and that will flash out the codes along with the CEL, is this possible with the Trackers too?

Since yours is pre obd II yes....its super easy...

There is a terminal in you engine bay right under the fuses....

it has four ports... XX
                             XX

You have to run a jumper from 2-4 I think so....
X0
0X 0 being the wire to jumper....you may have to revese that obviously...


You will then get you check engine light flashing codes....

The first is for tens place and the second for ones

NOTE 12 IS AN ALL CLEAR CODE

Example FLASH FLASH PAUSE FLASH FLASH FLASH
Code 23


hope this helps

Also if you hook the wire up wrong...you will notice you check engine light will go off faster than normal

OK...so today I pulled the cluster out and found no light in the CEL spot. I took the one from the seatbelt light and put it in there. The CEL comes on steady and never goes off when it is running. So I tried to pull the codes but when I jump the two wires....the balck one and the blue/yellow one, nothing happens, the light never goes off or flashes just on steady. I tried it with the key on and the engine not running also with the engine running. Does this mean the ECU is shot? I hope not. I went to troublecodes.net to find out what wires to jump, are these the right ones. The terminal is just like Yoak described and it is white. There is also a black one there with four wires but different color wires. Any suggestions?

anyone figure this out yet? having the same problem.

Read this thread....

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=21008.0

you probably need to flip the CEL cancel switch, then you should be able to read the codes.

anyone figure this out yet? having the same problem.

Just a couple weeks after this, it stopped running completely. Got it towed home and it sat for a couple months until I cooled down enough not to take the BFH to it. I checked the whole thing out, it would turn over real good but would not start. The fuel pump would come on and everything seemed in order. After getting real pissed, I kicked the ECU and the thing started right up but would not drive. I ordered a rebuilt ECU from ebay and it runs ok now, but the CEL is still on steady and I can't pull any codes out of it. It also still runs real rich. I think I'm going to drive it until it blows up and put a V6 in it. That may be easier said than done, I mean the blowing it up thing. I have run it out of oil I don't know how many times and it keeps running, I mean like friggin energizer must have engineered this motor 

So I tried to pull the codes but when I jump the two wires....the balck one and the blue/yellow one, nothing happens, the light never goes off or flashes just on steady.

You could have a broken wire. Try connecting the blue/yellow wire directly to the battery negative. If that doesn't work then trace the wire back to the ECU A3 terminal and try connecting a wire from the back of the connector to the vehicle body. If that doesn't work then there is a problem with the ECU ot the violet (CEL) wire is shorted to ground somewhere.
Also check that the connector contacts on the ECU are clean and not oxidised or corroded.