I need some PS for my 1990 tracker, Is this just buying the pump hoses and reservoir from a junker?
Also it sound like the toyota front axle swap is alot of work.
I want a little better traction next time putting around at Glamis.
I figure as a daily driver I can put in a locker on the front, because I don't do any real rock crawling or offroading, but no reason to get stuck in soft sand like a fool.
It looks like the trail tough front locker for $309 would give me good traction, an ARB is way out of my budget.
kevin

I would look into making the IFS stronger. I am running 33" skiny tires with the front welded solid and haven't broke it yet.

I don't see myself breaking any axles, and I am only doing a 3" lift so I may end up only running 235's or maybe 30" at the most.  What exactly would I weld?

To swap the power steering you need the steering box, reservoir, bump and hoses.  You also need PS pump mount and the steering rack.

If you have an 8 valve engine and get the mount off of a 16 vavle it will need to be modified to fit properly.  I believe you just need to re-drill out the mounting holes.

Have you looked at the Limited Slip for the rear end instead of putting in the front locker?

I could do a limited slip for the rear but my logic is this:
When I go out to the dunes or desert putting around ( barstow, ca), a limited slip in the rear in 4wd will still sometimes slip when I am going around a corner right?
If I put in a full locker up front its never used on the roadway because the front manual hubs are unlocked, and it drives normally.
When I am in super soft sand/dirt I can throw it in 4wd and have grea traction without any excessive tire wear or clunking on the road. I also get pull power instead of push power
Play the devils advocate.

There are plenty of arguments for a front locker vs a rear locker, all are valid. 

One issue with a front locker is you will push more then before.  When you are on the throttle the locker should be locked, so both your front wheels turn at the same rate.  Great for going straight, not so much for high speed cornering.

The limited slip will act like a normal rear diff, it will only kick in when one wheel starts to spin excessively.  Even then it uses a clutch pack so the power transfer is gradual and not a clunking "it's on/it's off" like you can get with a standard locker.  This does mean that the limited slip is not near as nice for crawling rocks though, as it will not lock together like a true locker at low speeds.  But it is better on snow and ice.

I live in los angeles, I have very little use for driving in snow and ice...
However I am planning on going skiing a few times this year and want to avoid chaining up and just pop it in 4wd.
SO my decision rests on this:
Putting out to the sand drags, no hills, just alot of soft sand, let out air pressure in the tires.
And 1-2 trips in the snow.
Rear lim slip (brand?)
Front locker?(brand)