i just picked up a sammy 88 with a spring over and a 2" body lift im going to be running bfgs ko at im going to need wheels allso so what is the biggest i can put on there and what offset to get them out from under the sammy,i was hoping to go between 31-33'' tires

basic SOA should be able to run 31's with only minor rubbing on hard wheeling. With the extra 2" body then you should be able to fit 33's. I don't like body lifts but 2" is not bad.

If you are going to run 31's that are 10" wide then you'd been some 8's with a little offset...you can probable squeeze them on 7's but in my experience they will rub the springs when turning.

If you run 12" wide or more then you need to run 10's and I like to run alot of offset. I'd have to go out and measure the offset. You have to watch the bearings when running these rims.....they will take the bearings out really fast.

Another to consider is how you are going to run this....if you are going to lock it up then you should stay with 31's. If you wheel lightly then you can run 33's Are the gears changed in the zuke too? 512's or 462's.....I personally run 512's, 30's and locked and love it. I don't do deep mud but the combo is insanely capable...not very fast but I'm never in a rush when wheeling.

i dont care to much for body lifts but i do like being able to spary the mud out from under the body easyier,i think i will be going to a 1" body lift and putting 2" springs ontop of my spo

i def. dont want to have to worry about bearings,but i would like to go with 10" wide if i could get the offset right without rubbing so any input on the would be great
thanks for the help

When I first put together my SPOA I ran 33x12.5 BFG MTR's on 15x8 wheels and 3.5" of offset.  I didn't have to worry about rubbing on the spring due to having an SJ-410 and my springs sitting 1.5" further inboard on both sides compared to the Sammy while still running the Sammy axles (3" wider then stock).

We did cut out the rear fenderwell to deal with rusting so I had an extra inch or two of clerance in the back.  In the front I just pounded the fenderwell back a little bit so the tires wouldn't rub when turning.  I also put a second Number 2 spring in the front in order to help with the load of the winch and everything so my front springs would not be inverse like they are on a lot of SPOA rigs.  This helps give you keep the tires out of fenders.  I run a 6.5:1 T-Case with 5.12 gears with a 970cc 4 cyl (SJ-410, FTW) and a 4 speed.  I can cruise at 50 but I am turning 5 grand to do it and can't really push much faster as I run out of gears.



My cousin has 33x12.5 Swamper SSR's on the same wheel with a straight SPOA and runs fine.  Sadly no pictures easily available as our cameraman is never around when we take him on wheeling trips.  He is running the 8:1 Transfer case gears, still says he is a bit short on power for running on the highway with a rebuilt 1.3.

I have run into three issues with the 33" tires and stock springs.  First was mentioned by zukimoo with the axles.  I would put braces on the top if you plan on doing any jumping (Sky Manufacturing has a nice set for a good deal over here.  The other is your axle shafts themselves.  I would recommend switching the fronts over to Trail Tough Double Tough front axles, especially since they are still on sale over here.  If you look in the products section they even have rear ones available now.

The second issue both rigs have run into is rear spring wrap.  One good day on the trail with some solid climbs and both your rear springs will be shot.  A club member with YJ springs ran into the same issue.  He installed a traction bar, I switched over to a 4 link after I destroyed my second set of rear springs.  When I destroyed the first set I actually pealed the spring pads off of the axle.  Not the welds, I ripped the tubing itself apart.  Since then I have sleaved the entire rear axle with tubing to add some additional strength but a traction bar should be enough to avoid this problem.

For the traction bar I would look at the work khan_sultan did after his SPOA.  You can read his lift write-up at http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php/topic,24682.0.html or go straight to the traction bar article at http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php/topic,25712.0.html   I would recommend reading his posts for the pictures alone. 

The third is toasting the transfer case mounts.  Switch over to an unbreakable set or just pick up the Snatch from ZOR or one of the other mounts from the other suppliers.  I beefed up my long t-case arm with a piece of angle iron and called it good.  Eventually I destroyed my t-case cover dropping it on a rock and built a skid plate.  But I did wheel for 3+ years with only the unbreakable t-case mounts from Rocky Road with added fender washers to keep the bolts from pulling into the poly bushings.

The fun thing with the Suzuki is their is no one way to build them.  Let us know what ends up working for you.

Spring over alone without a 2 inch body lift would get you to 31's.  You might be able to run 33's with the body lift, I would suggest getting alittle taller than stock perches and you will gain 5-6 inches of lift from Spring over.   

the offset that I run with the 10's is 2 1/2". I've run 31X12.5X15 boggers and now running 33X12.5X15 pit bulls and none of them rub on the springs....a little on the lower fender behind the front wheel but only on hard runs.