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16 valve head

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Offline jawman

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16 valve head
« on: February 03, 2010, 12:00:41 PM »
I have a 95 kick that I bought thinking it had a bad valve and a head gasket. it sputters sometimes more than other times, uses water and there is oil in the water. it also sounds like a Subaru. that tells me it is a head gasket and a bad valve. I finally took it a part and the head gasket looked good, so that brought up some questions. my plan is sense I bought a used head i am going to put that on there along with a head set and complete gasket set. here is my first problem: I want to take the valves out of the new head and replace the seals and clean the valves, BUT I have bought two valve spring tools and they don't work for this application. what does everyone else use on the valve springs? and do you think the car will run good then?
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Offline bentparts

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Re: 16 valve head
« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2010, 02:30:59 PM »
I had to make my own tools for a 16v guide seal replacement. Wasn't too difficult. take a look at them at www.flickr.com/photos/bentparts.  Look at set: valve seal tools. I'd be happy to loan them to you if you pay the shipping.
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Offline jawman

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Re: 16 valve head
« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2010, 10:08:22 PM »
I was wondering if I needed to start welding and cutting up tools to make it work. I happened to go through almost all of your picture album and I must say that you have a lot of great ideas and do some awesome work. my only question is when you adjusted the angle of the spring perch on the control arm why did you lower the inner part of the bracket and not raise the outer part? I have seen it done both ways now.
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Offline bentparts

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Re: 16 valve head
« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2010, 06:56:11 AM »
 Thanks Jawman.  I guess at the time I just didn't think of it. I'm actually thinking about modding them further but that's just something to do down the road. So, what did you come up with for the valve spring tool situation? BTW, It's a heckofalot easier to do 'em with the head on the bench rather than in the engine compartment! Watch out for the spring keepers flying around too!
Now, as far as the engine running better, you've at least eliminated the head ( if you do it properly!) as part of the problem. Make sure you install the head gasket correctly, I've heard of people putting them in upside down, blocking a critical oil passage and frying the cam bearings. Adjust the valve clearence to factory spec, and go form there. Timing the cam and dist is also kind of tricky, but there's plenty of info here to get you going in the right direction. 

Did you do a compression check, or a leakdown test ?
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Offline wildgoody

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Re: 16 valve head
« Reply #4 on: February 04, 2010, 09:03:15 AM »
Ya, the oil hole is in the front of the block, make sure the
gasket's hole and the one in the block line up, the gasket
can be hard to find the right way if it's not marked
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Offline jawman

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Re: 16 valve head
« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2010, 09:10:31 AM »
it had 90 pounds of pressure in all 4 cylinders
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Offline wildgoody

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Re: 16 valve head
« Reply #6 on: February 04, 2010, 09:13:55 AM »
90 is low, should be more like 110-125, you might need rings, and
depending on the miles, you should do the valves too while its apart
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Bobthebiker

Re: 16 valve head
« Reply #7 on: February 04, 2010, 09:26:39 AM »
I'm going to concur with these statements.  at a minimum you should have your new and old head checked to make sure the mating surfaces are square, and not warped,   clean them up good and check valve clearances, as well as probably a general valve job.   

it wouldnt hurt any to also re ring the motor, which is likely part of your issue if you have 90 pounds across all 4 cylinders.   that doesnt suggest a headgasket so much as a tired motor with a fuel delivery or spark issue as well.  possibly both. 
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Offline jawman

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Re: 16 valve head
« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2010, 12:30:56 PM »
it has 202,000 on the sedometer and the head used head I got is suposed to have about 80,000. how hard is it to replace the rings?
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Bobthebiker

Re: 16 valve head
« Reply #9 on: February 04, 2010, 12:37:59 PM »
with the right tools, not VERY hard.   I'd suggest you buy a good service manual, since you'll want it for both directions, and torque specs and such.   

I wont tear into a motor that I'm not familiar with without a manual for EXACTLY that reason.  it really does pay to know what  the devil you're doing.   

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Offline bentparts

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Re: 16 valve head
« Reply #10 on: February 04, 2010, 03:50:13 PM »
90lbs?  when I did the compression test on my 16V before I put the turbo on I got between 185 and 188 on all 4. FSM says 190 is perfect for a 95 16v.
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Offline jawman

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Re: 16 valve head
« Reply #11 on: February 04, 2010, 08:41:39 PM »
when it wasn't sputtering it ran okay, but it was rare when it did sputter and run bad.
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93 4 door
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Offline jawman

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Re: 16 valve head
« Reply #12 on: February 15, 2010, 07:02:16 PM »
well I was looking at the head today and I had a 8 inch C clamp sitting next to it, so I put it around the valves and it looks like I can use the c clamp with a little pipe with the side cut out and that should let me get to that spring clip. but for some reason I dont have any pipe in the right demension, so off to the steel yard.
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87 Sami tin top
91 4 door SOLD
93 4 door
95 4 door
95 Geo 2dr V6
keep them coming
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Offline wildgoody

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Re: 16 valve head
« Reply #13 on: February 15, 2010, 07:12:04 PM »
The valve springs aren't too tough int he 16V head, so your built
up spring compressor doesn't need to be super beefy, and do yourself
a favor, leave plenty of room the work the keepers on and off the
valve stems, they can fly far if they are on wrong and get pinched.

Wild
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