I am not much of a mechanic, but I have an stock 88 Samurai with the springs under the axle.  Do I need anything or can I take the springs I have now and change them to mount above the axle?

If so, do I need anything else?  I have someone that does most of the work for me, but I wanted to ask other Samurai experts to make sure it is doable and if any other parts would be needed? 

PS.. This is strictly an on-road Sammi.

Thx, Troy   

I am not much of a mechanic, but I have an stock 88 Samurai with the springs under the axle.  Do I need anything or can I take the springs I have now and change them to mount above the axle?

If so, do I need anything else?  I have someone that does most of the work for me, but I wanted to ask other Samurai experts to make sure it is doable and if any other parts would be needed? 

PS.. This is strictly an on-road Sammi.

Thx, Troy   

You keep the springs you have and flip them.  You also need longer brake lines for the front or make a drop bracket for the stock lines.  You also need to buy some perches to hae welded onto the axle.  And u-bollts.  You will also need to get a z-bar "steering bar" as the stock one will rub on springs after the lift.

Basically for about 50-150 you can have it lifted.

Great, thanks!  I knew it wouldn't be as simple as flipping the springs!

Just to make sure, you don't actually flip the springs.  You switch the alignment bolt in the center to the other side then flip the axle.

I recommend the Sky Manufacturing kit, as it comes with a new steering arm for high steer, to emlinitate bump steer, and the wrap-around style spring pads.

There is a great post by khan_sultan on doing a SPOA using all stock parts though, you can see it at http://zukiworld.com/forum/general-suzuki-forum/basic-spoa-on-a-lwb-sj-413-using-stock-parts/

Just to make sure, you don't actually flip the springs.  You switch the alignment bolt in the center to the other side then flip the axle.

I recommend the Sky Manufacturing kit, as it comes with a new steering arm for high steer, to emlinitate bump steer, and the wrap-around style spring pads.

There is a great post by khan_sultan on doing a SPOA using all stock parts though, you can see it at http://zukiworld.com/forum/general-suzuki-forum/basic-spoa-on-a-lwb-sj-413-using-stock-parts/

YEP DONT FLIP the springs! just put them on top of axle with the new perches.   

I'm not capable to get in to an advanced technical discussion though my english is not so good (I'm from Sweden). But I can give you some tips what to search for.

The advantage with manufactured bolt on kits to raise your Samurai is that the geometrys for your front axle and steering will be exact calculated (so geometry problems are avoided included bump steer). If you want to do everything yourself with a low cost solution it could be a good tip to search around in different forums how other sammy owners have done this (there are lots of samples).

If you really want to learn about steering geometrys, search for Ackerman (the man who defined the theories). Another tip is that steering arms (with different drops) from some models of Mercedes fits. So that could also be a clue for your search on the Internet.

Kind regards from

Hannes

While john1974 recomended a Z-style draglink, I do not.

You want a lifted daily driver that handles as good as it did when it was stock.

If you you use a Z-style draglink in the steering system, you will not fix one of the TWO major problems that SPOA installations cause, namely bumpsteer.

 http://www.acksfaq.com/bumpsteer_explained.htm

The true cure for bumpsteer is either an Overt The Top (OTT) steering system or a Drop Pittman arm.  The Drop Pittman arm is, by far, the less expensive choice.

The OTHER problem you will face is something called "Death Wobble".

While death wobble is generally caused by worn or damaged steering components (kingpin bearings, wheel bearings, poor tire balance, loose tierod ends, etc), doing a SPOA lift can create death wobble if done wrong.  The KEY thing that creates death wobble in a SPOA installation is the incorrect installation of the perches!  

The new spring perches MUST be installed in such a way that the spring face of the new perch is parallel to that of the old perch!  Doing this preserves the stock Caster angle and the operating angles of the u-joints.  While the u-joints may operate at an more severe angle with the SPOA lift, the operating angles will match at either end of the driveshaft, which will reduce driveline vibration and wear.

See these links for more info:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/

http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html

Also, consider using a yolk extender instead of spacers on the very short rear driveshaft as it will work better to keep your u-joints from destroying themselves on a regular basis.  do a search for yoke at Ack's FAQ for details.

All of the above links were found by using the search engine at Ack's FAQ (see link in my signature, below).  Ack's FAQ exists because - long ago - I was in the same position as you are now.  Ack's FAQ is my payback for all the help I got over the years that untimately resulted in the reliable Samurai set up the way I want it today.

I hope that this helps!

Also, consider using a yolk extender instead of spacers on the very short rear driveshaft as it will work better to keep your u-joints from destroying themselves on a regular basis.  do a search for yoke at Ack's FAQ for details.

This is much easier now that you can just order a longer yoke from Low Range Off-Road.