If your fuel pump does run when the key is first turned on but stops it sounds like a cam or crank sensor issue. without one signal or the other your fuel pump will not continue to run and fuel injectors will not fire.

If you are talking about when the key is turned to "run"....the trackicks only run the fuel pump for 3 seconds, then shut it off....until you turn the key to "start" to try to start the engine, then it starts the fuel pump again.

I Have still not had a lot of time to work on it but when I have I still can't seem to come up with anything. I had to change a heater core in my sons 2000 chevy tracker so I'm not in a real good mood, at least I won that round but I feel like "Rocky" after a fight. Back to the problem Geo, I can have someone crank it over and as long as I drizzle gas down the intake it purrs like a kitten. It is starting to get cold and all I had was water in it so I put some antifreeze in it and let it run for a few minutes with a manual gasoline add. I don't have a noid light but the injector worked just fine in my other geo. I think I have to find a bad wire or something. I was really hoping somebody had the same thing happen and had a quick cure.

You can rent (pay a deposit, get it back when you return it) a noid light test kit from several auto parts stores (oreillys and autozone, rent them here).  That way you can see if you are getting an injector pulse (my guess is that you aren't...so I would just skip to the checks below).
If you are not (or if you don't want to do the noid light test), you need to check the wires coming from the ECM to the injector for continuity (disconnect battery, hook one meter lead to the wire at the ecm connector, hook the other lead to the wire at the injector connector).  Check both injector wires.  If either injector wire doesn't have continuity, then you need to find out where it is broken (it could be the actual wire, it could be that it isn't making good connection in a connector).  You should be able to isolate where the problem is without unwrapping the wiring harness.
Another thing you need to check is to make sure the red injector wire isn't shorted to ground.  To check this, hook one meter lead to the red wire, hook the other meter lead to a good ground source.  If you have continuity, then the wire is shorted and you need to find out where it is shorted and correct it.  If it is shorted to ground, once you correct the issue, you need to check all the fuses again, as it could have blown a fuse.
I am still not sold on the fact that you have good fuel pressure/supply.  If nothing else, at least do this check.....pull the metal fuel line off the back of the TBI, have someone turn the key to run, while you hold the end of the line in a container.  It should pump a full stream of gas for 3 seconds, until the fuel pump kicks off.  It should be about 3 to 4 oz. of fuel.  If the fuel stream dribbles or sputters, then you have a problem with fuel supply...either a pump that is only half-ass working, or a restriction in the line somewhere (or low fuel level...but I am sure you made sure to put enough gas in (at least 2 gallons in a completely empty tank) that you wouldn't have that problem, right?).  If that test checks out, have someone try to start the engine while you hold the fuel line in a container again....the fuel pump should start pumping a full stream again, as soon as the key is turned to start.
I know all of this probably looks like a lot of stuff to check, but it really shouldn't take you more than about 30 minutes to check everything I listed.
Let us know what you find.

Thanks, sorry for taking so long to get back. I will rent a noid light and see where that gets me. I did several checks on the electrical trying to see where I should have power and shouldn't with my other geo. I have power to the CAS and when cranking my meter did fluctuate when checking the injector wires. I will also get a pressure gauge on the fuel line so I can totally rule out fuel supply. We're not done here yet and I'll go through the list on the last post here. Thanks for your time! I hope I can pay this 25.00 to somebody..... This is really amazing, i have never been so patient with a dead end project like this before.

Change out your injector plugs.  I've had this problem before in other vehicles and the plugs were always to blame.  If it's been sitting, there could be a short goin on because the plugs are dry rotted.

Maybe its the key switch sounds like you tried every thing else

Was the ECU you swapped from the same year and transmission type?

Did you crack the old ECU and look at the board? I would bet the Capacitors
leaked and corroded the traces that power the injector

Wild

My bad............ I thought the black box on the firewall was the ecu. not until I finally got my back limber enough to get to the other box above the fuse block did I notice my stupidity. thanks for all the help guys! I had the box rebuilt, plugged it in and she fired right up! So.... Wild if you have a paypal email I will send you 25.00. you guessed it first. PM me!

Mike