There are already a couple of really good articles out there on the installation of the Calmini 3" suspension lift for the Sidekick. I want to add some comments based on my experiences with the kit.
See:
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_030101/feature_trickerkickersuspension_01.htmhttp://www.izook.com/tech/tracker/3inchtrackkick/3inchtrackkick.htm REAR
You'll need to move the rear axle around a lot as you fit the new parts. I kept a floor jack under the rear differential to jog the axle up and down, with a scissor jack under the rear driveshaft flange to help tilt the axle back.
The stock differential breather hose is too short; plan on replacing it.
The parking brake cables were also too short. I removed the brackets that hold the cables to the rear frame crossmember to add some slack.
You need to grind the lower shock mounts to make clearance for the Calmini shocks. This isn't hard, but make sure to make sure to check the clearance with the shocks fully-extended. Check again after you've adjusted the heim joint, as this adjustment rotates the axle and may change the clearance.
The differential carrier bracket can be installed backwards, so look at the photo in the instructions.
I installed the heim joint with the threaded rod screwed in all the way, as recommended, but had problems with vibrations. After some trial and error, I backed out the screw so that 4-5 threads are showing (1/4" - 3/8"), and things are better, but there's still some vibration. I might go to a driveline specialist.
FRONT LIFT
You don't need to open up the struts to add oil, as the flier tells you to do.
Remove the hardware (flange, rubber boot) from the tops of the original struts and mount it on the new struts. Use a vise or big wrench to grab the metal flange, and loosen the nut.
One of the new control arms was a very tight fit. I used a razor blade to shave off about a millimeter from one of its bushings, greased the bushings, and got the arm into place by rapping on it with a dead-blow hammer.
For me, installation of the hardware to relocate the front differential was the toughest part of the kit. To start with, I recommend removing all three of the original brackets rather than trying to replace them one-at-a-time.
The installation of the differential-to-cross member bracket is not explained in the instructions. What you should do is:
- Shorten the stock steel bushing sleeve by about 1/4"
- Install the assembly with a factory bushing on top, the new Calmini bracket in the middle, and the new Calmini bushing on the bottom (against the cross member mounting bracket).
Steve at Calmini confirmed these points.
Steve also said that late model Sidekicks have a reinforcing rib on the bottom of the differential housing. This rib needs to be ground away or it will interfere with the crossmember, which explained why I still couldn't get things to fit. It would've been nice if Calmini had mentioned this in the instructions. Just remove the differential housing entirely and go at it with an angle grinder. If you've already removed the three mounting brackets, the only other thing attached to the differential housing is the driveshaft, so it's not hard to remove the housing.
Anyway, I still had problems with the fit after I ground off the rib at the bottom of the housing. The holes in the passenger-side Calmini bracket just wouldn't line up with those on the housing. It looked like if I removed a lot more material off the bottom of the housing I'd be able to rotate/drop the differential more and the holes would line up, but I was getting worried about doing more grinding. I figure there's a reason Suzuki added that reinforcing rib to the housing- and why they later switched to steel. I wound up using a file to hog out the holes in the passenger-side Calmini bracket, and got things to fit that way. I don't see any problems with the results.
At the same time I did the lift, I installed Calmini's "Steering Stabilizer & Truss Kit" because I wanted to be able to install their front skid plate. It makes sense to install this at the same time you're replacing the control arms. The truss wouldn't fit until I trimmed some of its edges with the trusty angle grinder. The front skid plate is really nice, but it will make oil changes kind of a pain.
Finally, the instructions note that you should visit an alignment shop after the installation is done. In my case, the toe-in was so extreme after the installation that the Zuk was undrivable, so I performed a crude adjustment myself before driving it to a shop. I still have stock wheels with 215/75 R15 tires. My camber is a little bit off, but not as bad as I expected, so I'm not going to mess with camber adjustment any time soon. Eventually I'll get bigger tires, but it's not in my budget right now.
RESULTS
The kit delivered an honest 3" of lift. Day-to-day driveability is still very good. The ride is stiffer than stock, but it's not unpleasant. (I have a 4-door; I'm sure the ride is stiffer in a 2-door). I'm pleased with the results.
