I presume you are only disconection it at the manifold? and the crossmember and then you can push it to the side and tie it down with some zipties  should have noproblemb after that.

Oh and I have a question from when I swaped the motor in my 89 kik, the motor I rebuild came out of a 92 or a 94, and had a bracket on each side of the bottom that attached to the bell housing, now the tranny in my 89 did not only not have bolt holes for the brackets, but they did not event touch the bell housing. and were not on the motor i took out, the motor bolted  up and runs great, but did chevy do somthing to the bell housing in the tracker for more support?

My X90 has those bell housing supports on it, and YES they are in the way you have to take BOTH sides of the passenger side support off, to remove it, and it has to be removed to take out the transmission.

Anyways, I got the tranny out, got lots of pics. I was at a golf tournament today, so no time to post pics or further the work. But I got the clutch installed, the flywheel, and shes all ready to bolt in tommorrow.

The Auto transmission, is 2-3 inches longer then the 5spd, and the speedo gearing, in the transfer case, both are the same. 19 teeth. Differences must me in the speedo itself for the 4.62 and 5.12 gearing.

Pics tommorrow,

-Steve

You didn't have to seperate the transmission from the transfer case did you? I've found a parts tracker at a U Pull it yard and I'm going to get it saturday... hope it doesn't take too long. Oh and the front axle too.

Out of curiousity, what are the years that are interchangable? I have a 94 tracker, I was pretty sure I could use the tranny out of anything 89-95. Can I use more years than that? Also, I have an 8v, do I have to get the tranny off an 8v for some reason? Oh and if its a 4door can I still take the transmission and transfer from it even if I have a 2door?

Hehe, you asking the wrong guy, zaggy would know. I didnt have to seperate that transfer case though to get the auto out. Althought, the manual says you do, on the 5spd, but not on the auto. Wierd, I doubt it, I will let you know later today.

Pretty sure that housing is the same on all the 1.6L motors.

-Steve

Hey, I need a shot of a 5spd engine bay so I can see how the clutch cable is routed.

Thanks!

-Steve

I found this:



Where is the cable bracket though?

-Steve

steve that pic is of a sami tho right?

Yeah, I think I found out where it connects. But I am missing the actual bracket

-Steve

Ok some pics didnt turn out, but I got most of them. So I got the old transmission out finally.



I had to move the exhaust to the side as I was saying:



Tons of cables connected to it the auto, some of them I disconnected properly, some I cut. I leave you to decide what you want to do. I was getting near the end of my rope at the part of the project. But it DID come out! Heres a pic of the driveplate and those cables for the Auto, the driveplate and its two counterparts become scrap:




There was a length difference in the two trannys. This means new drive shafts! 3inches shorter the 5spd is, as yoda would say.



This becomes a greater pain in the ass later as pics will show. I went to change the speedo gears:




BUT they are not any different! Both 19 teeth!.... ok.... maybe the ecu.... w/e....

So I got the 5spd all ready to install, changed the release bearings and all that jazz. This is really straight forward, you will figure it out, my pics of this didnt turn out. Just take all the parts that come with the exedy kit off ebay, and install them! One bearing into the flywheel and one bearing into the transmission.



Then install the clutch onto the crank, replacing the auto driveplate, using the alignment too and all that stuff....



OHOH... and the starter motor IS the same! YES!

So now lets get the 5spd up and installed:





I did finally get it all in and installed, using two jacks and then finally, removing the front red jack and holding the 5spd in my hands, lieing on my back and just toying with it until it slid in. The rear was still supported.

Now remember I said it was a PITA because the new transmission is shorter... IT IS:





The 5spd hits the body. Nothing a small shave doesnt fix. Didnt take much actually.. and oh, flip the rubber around on your AUTO 4-Wheel transfer case boot, otherwise it wont go into 4-lo.



As for the consoles, lo and behold X90 and SIDEKICK consoles are the same! 5 spd sidekick goes right in. (I want a BLACK ONE THOUGH, someone help me out here, needs the parts!)



The AUTO ECU has an extra plug and is blue:





Got the car running on the AUTO with a CEL wouldnt run on the 5spd.... Maybe a bad ECU.


So yeah, got it running, shifted through a few gears on the block, without the clutch, and it works.

NOW... changing the pedals tommorrow, AND... CLUTCH bracket.

...........

Please! Does someone have a pic of a stock 5spd clutch cable and bracket?? I have the cable, but I need to know how its run, and where the bracket connects at the tranny. Nothing intact at the wrecker and the manual is useless.... If your reading this, and you have a 5spd sidekick/tracker/X90... Can you take a pic of underneath your car of the clutch cable bracket, where it bolts on, and how the cable is run? Please...

...........

Thanks guys,

-Steve

Ok, all done, finished and working right.

Theres a couple things one should know here.

1) First off, your backup lights are on the BIG Auto connector on the bottom, left over after you take out the AUTO tranny. You connect two pins and the lights light up, you have to splice into those wires and hook them up to thw white switch on top the MT.

You can find out the two pins by me taking a pic, or by take your auto and shifting it into reverse (when its out) and checking for continuity across two pins on the male side of the connector (on the tranny).

2) The white switch on top of the Transfer case is for the 4WD light.

3) Make sure you have a good UNRUSTED clutch cable, your will regret it.

4) BECAREFUL when changing the pedals, you MUST remove the brake booster, this is really easy, just pull it out and leave the lines connected to back it off a bit. BUT YOU MUST DO THIS, or it will break (doh).

5) It WILL run and work with good mileage on the AUTO ECU but you wanna get a 5spd ECU ASAP.

6) Change the fluid on the front and rear diff and the TC and the MT. DOnt go TOO thick. Good time to switch to synthetic.

I will keep you posted more later,

-Steve

Xlnt job Steve........

Told ya you could do it!

now you've got a cool rig to beat winter with.

zag