We are getting ready to start on the lift for my kik, we are going to space everything down as far as we can, desiel is going in this year and i want to be able to run 33+ tires,  so waht i have been thinking is we have a rig that we are building an engin for " for a buddies wife, so we can take the suspention parts off of that and make a few measurements, so when we machiene all the pieces they will be in spec to stock, just with more drop.  what would you consider pratical for a sus lift, i was looking at going 5.5 inches lift and droping the difs 2"  giveing 3.5" lift, and i am going to PLATE the buttom of the kick. 

ok so here is my question, how far can you drop the DIFFS without running into driveline angle issues?   i mean i can allways get longer shocks and springs, and redo the stearing arms to alow for the drop, and not affect the chamber of the tires "as much"  We are looking at makeing longer Arms, and possibly some draglinks for the rear. keep in mind this is going to remain a daily driver, 'and that is why i am going ARB and not Lockrite' 

so what do you guys think is going to be the best way to get to 33" tires, now rember if i have to build the lift and arms,  it just means there will be a 6" lift avalible for sale.

Are you trying to fit 33's without body lifting at all? That would be cool, build enough of a suspension lift to fit 33's and still keep the IFS. 

I know that you basically need 6+" of total lift to fit 33" tires. For the front you could drop the front frame section like the Rock Star project to gain some extra height.

If you want to fit 33s without heavy cutting and bashing then you will need to move front wheels forward, Mike Hagens front end widening does this, check out the tech archives from the buttons at the top of the page. Dropping the front diff 2"  doesn't affect the lift or the ground clearance as it will still be above the crossmember. The Calmini kit lowers the diff around 2 3/4", this is far as you can go without cutting and shutting the crossmember.

Aye lowering the diff alone will not lift the vehicle, however it does aleviate the stress on the cv axels and provide the ability to lift the vehicle more then 2' without stressing the cv axels.
 if you lower the diff 2 -3/4 of an inch then you can get a lift of 4 3/4 of a inch with just suspention, so i have to look at rebraceing the frame so that the crosmember is not an issue.
because i need to move it at least 1 inch further down to get closer to the 6' total suspention i am looking for. 
 
 and i will look at mikes post on front end widening.

If you're going to be dropping the diff and A-arms, you can incorperate the widening mod into the new bracketry, as it just involves moving the two rear a-arm mount holes further outboard and then adding spacers to the CV shaft.

If you're going to be dropping the diff and A-arms, you can incorperate the widening mod into the new bracketry, as it just involves moving the two rear a-arm mount holes further outboard and then adding spacers to the CV shaft.

explosivo ... how do you add spacers to the RH side CV? Am I missing something?

when you widen the front end you replace the RH cv with a LH cv

when you widen the front end you replace the RH cv with a LH cv

and an anvil? or is a new stub shaft fabbed up in the stock housing (and how is it retained)?

I'd like to consider doing this, but with the fab work to drop and the cost of an anvil, I'd probably just SAS.

Quote from: Mythose on September 09, 2005, 11:17:36 AM

when you widen the front end you replace the RH cv with a LH cv

and an anvil? or is a new stub shaft fabbed up in the stock housing (and how is it retained)?

I'd like to consider doing this, but with the fab work to drop and the cost of an anvil, I'd probably just SAS.

Why, I was wondering that myself... the write isn't really that clear on this...

Quote from: Mythose on September 09, 2005, 11:17:36 AM

when you widen the front end you replace the RH cv with a LH cv

and an anvil? or is a new stub shaft fabbed up in the stock housing (and how is it retained)?

Are you asking about building a new stub shaft WITHOUT buying an Anvil? If so, this article may help...


http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/feature_hagan_frontendmod.htm





There is no need to 'retain' this new fabbed up stub shaft. It 'floats' in the third member just as the original CV shaft did. The only difference is that now you can unbolt that CV shaft if it should break and replace it using on one spare type instead of carring two...

HTH, -Eric

There is no need to 'retain' this new fabbed up stub shaft. It 'floats' in the third member just as the original CV shaft did.

Ahhhhh ... I'd seen that article before, but for some reason I thought the stub was made from a spare inner shaft (the pic showing the cut was to get the 3 blade mount). I see now that it's built up from a old CV for the shaft and the blades off a spare inner shaft ... thx all clear now.