Well, as the title says, what all is involved?  School is done for a bit more than a month, I finally had the time to get the '90 on jackstands in the backyard, and I'm soaking any bolt I can see on the 3rds and driveshafts with PB'laster.

I'm soaking the '96 as well and hoping to do this stuff sometime within the next few weeks.


School is coming...and I have so much to do...damn!...

Removing is fairly simple as long as you have a slide hammer, a pry bar and assorted metric sockets (I think all you need is a 14 and 17mm)

Quick basic setps:
1-jack it up
2- remove tires and brake drums
3- on older Kicks you will need to remove the brakes out of the way to pull the axle shaft
4- take the 4 bolts off of the back of the backing plate that secure the axle in place
5- hook up a slide hammer and pop out the axles
6- disconnect driveshaft and upper link
7- remove the bolts around the 3rd
8- attempt to seperate the factory sealant between the two cases with the pry bar 

8 is a pain, you need to be carefull not to mess up housings, but you also need to find places to squeeze the smallest of screwdrivers/prybars in and slowly start to seperate the super sealant. It has always taken me longet to seperate the casings with stock sealant, than it took to do all of the rest of the steps. Hopefully somebody will have some hints on how to make it easier on you, but the best I found was slowl steady prying force in one of the few gaps you can actually fit something in to begin prying.

Zig

I have never had any problem separating the 3rd... I just hit it with a very large dead blow rubber mallet a few times to loosen it.  Another way is to use a jack to carefully jack up on it, but you have to be careful to not jack the truck off the stands or lift.


I had the hardest time getting the axles out the first time, big slide hammer is the best way I have found.



Pretty simple actually for the rear.


Now, for the front:

You have to remove the entire front housing.

Drain the oil

Pull the front axles, remove all the mounting bracket bolts (left right and rear), remove drive shaft  and remove the housing, do the rest on the bench.

I wrote a topic on this somewhere.

You have to remove the whole front housing?

You have to remove the whole front housing?

Yeah, you do.. but don't let it scare you. I think I would rather pull the front housing than tackle the rear.  I can pull my front housing in about 20 minutes.. it is MUCH easier than it appears.. believe me

God I hope so.  I just want to get this done so I can go onto other projects I have sitting around.  Summer classes start June 13th and the list keeps getting longer!

Try:

http://www.ackerdackerly.com/faq/PHPzukidatabase/samuraifrontaxle.htm

this is a pictoral I did for the Front axle of a Samurai but pretty much applies for any solid-axle Suzuki-type third member.  IFS requires a bit more disassembly to get to the third...

You can also access at Ack's FAQ (the link is in my signature) through the Generation II beta test site by doing a search for third using the category of DRIVETRAIN.

There is now nearly twice the number of searchable links (204) to data in the Gen II Beta Site than on the FAQ forum!  Try a search and see for yourself.

hope this helps!

Well... the Sammy front and the Trackick front only have the casing bolts in common.. EVERY thing else is different from a procedure standpoint.. a Sammy article will be totally useless for the front diff on a Track..


As I said, on a Trackick, you HAVE to remove the entire front housing..  period.

BUT, it's only axles, three mounts, and a drive shaft to get the housing out.