with 2 1/8" spacer can i just flip the strut mount or will that not be enought?  do you get 2" more down travel or only 1"?

thanks

you'd probably get about 2 inches of extra down travel. not 100% sure but it's more than 1 inch that's for sure. that spacer is going to lift you more than 2- 1/8 up front so you need strut mount spacers and you could have the mount flipped if you wanted.

does anyone know how much more down travel you get with the flipped mount?

a strut mount flip will allow 1" less up travel, not used, and therefore give 1" more down travel, very useful.

if you have a 1" coil spacer, doing the strut mount flip is good enough. but if you have a 2" or bigger coil spacer, then you will have to look at getting some strut spacer made.

this is because the lift ratio in the front is 1.5:1 where the rear is 1:1 lift.

fitting a 2" strut spacer with the mount flipped is bad. you will be at max downward travel with the CVs, and you will feel them binding rediculously.

fit a 2" coil spacer, and fit a 2" strut spacer, and you should have a pretty good set up. any more and you will bind the CVs.

or fit OME struts and flip the mount.

thanks azzy friend

any progress on the diff drop you were making?

thanks azzy friend

any progress on the diff drop you were making?

on the front diff drop.... well, its on the back burner. in desperate measures to get back onto the trail to do some much missed wheeling, i just welded the front centre up, and put it all back together.

its all holding up pretty good, only i need all new ball joints in the steering. nothing much.

i guess i'm waiting to blast the front alloy diff out from under the front end, and then when the steel diff goes in, the drop brackets will also.

a strut mount flip will allow 1" less up travel, not used, and therefore give 1" more down travel, very useful.

if you have a 1" coil spacer, doing the strut mount flip is good enough. but if you have a 2" or bigger coil spacer, then you will have to look at getting some strut spacer made.

this is because the lift ratio in the front is 1.5:1 where the rear is 1:1 lift.

fitting a 2" strut spacer with the mount flipped is bad. you will be at max downward travel with the CVs, and you will feel them binding rediculously.

fit a 2" coil spacer, and fit a 2" strut spacer, and you should have a pretty good set up. any more and you will bind the CVs.

or fit OME struts and flip the mount.

X2 except I wouldn't recomend putting in a coil spacer taller than 1.5" up front. This still gives around 2-1/4" of lift up front, and if you go any taller, you might have problems on full droop, full lock with the cv cages pulling apart...

hey digger, I put in 2" strut spacers and put the vehical up on stands (front and back) so all the tires were in the air.  Started it up at full droop and turned full lock. weged the steering wheel and put it in 4L let out the clutch.  Hopped out of the zuk to check the angles and the cv's.  They are still opperating fine at that angle and havn't no problems that way.  I know when i get the bigger tires and it is actually being wheeled it will be alot harder on the angles but i won't be wheeling it till i get the diff drop brakets that should bring my angles back to near stock im hoping.
once i get the diff drop my angles should be fine at full drop and might have enought room to flip the strut mount if my angles are good.  This is all trial and error.  I will figure it out soon.

What do you think?

Free-wheeling no load is a lot different than under load. You might be safe, or you might have problems. It depends on how much play you have in the suspension. The more play from worn bushings and joints, the more strain you'll have on the CV's. The Goblin has OME struts, no sway bar and 1-1/2" spacers and the cages started to pull apart on it. That's why I say that 1-1/2" spacers is as tall as you should go without lowering the diff... If you lower the diff close to the same distance(within 1" or so) that you raise the front end, you should be fine.

thats what im hoping for.  I will be running a 2 1/8" coil spacer with 2" strut spacers and boondox front diff drop brackets(same as calmini im told) with no sway bar. And if my angles are good at full droop with the diff dropped i might flip the strut mount.   Im going to be getting new balljoints, the ones that are on the bottem of the arms, They had a little play in them and the boots are ripped so once those are new i think the front end will be "tighter". 
Thanks for the thoughts.